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February 2026 Tips and Tricks

Thu, 22 Jan 2026 17:20:48 GMT

February is a good time to step back into the garden and support the systems that keep it healthy year-round. Many tasks this month are about working with existing ecology—protecting soil life, supporting beneficial insects, and setting plants up for strong growth.

Observe before intervening . Take note of where bulbs, perennials, and native plants are beginning to show signs of life so you can avoid unnecessary disturbances.

Hand-weed selectively . Removing weeds while they are small reduces competition while reducing soil disturbance. Work in sections and leave undisturbed areas whenever possible to allow overwintering insects to remain undisturbed.

Transplant trees and shrubs as needed . This is still a good window for moving woody plants with minimal stress as long as the ground is not frozen.

Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs , bare-root or container-grown. Consider species that provide nectar, pollen, berries, or cover for wildlife.

Plant hardy perennials and perennial herbs such as Allium (chives), Levisticum (lovage), Rosmarinus (rosemary), Salvia (sage), and Thymus (thyme). Be mindful of spreading species like Mentha (mint) and Origanum (oregano), and plant them where they can be contained.

Prune fruit trees and train grapes thoughtfully . Retain some structure and avoid over-pruning or removing future fruiting wood.

Prune roses and plant new ones if needed . Choose disease-resistant varieties and avoid planting too deeply. February is a great time to prune roses in the PNW. This is when they are most dormant. For upright roses (not climbing), prune out the oldest canes, as these will begin to produce fewer flowers over time. Prune to a vase shape and keep the center open for good airflow. When possible, prune to outward-facing buds. Remove diseased wood and make sure you know whether your rose is grafted. Knowing if it is grafted can influence your pruning techniques.

For indoor decoration, prune branches of Chaenomeles (quince), Forsythia, or flowering Prunus and bring indoors for early blooms—leaving the majority of plants intact outdoors for pollinators.

Prune summer-flowering shrubs such as Buddleja, Cotoneaster, Clematis, and Hydrangea. For Clematis, watch for new growth to begin emerging, and it is best to prune Hydrangea after threats of heavy frost.

Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs like Rhododendron and Azalea, which are already set with buds.

Wait to cut back tender perennials such as Fuchsia , Agastache, and Salvia until new growth is clearly visible.

Leave fallen leaves and stems in place where appropriate . These materials protect soil, feed microorganisms, and provide critical overwintering habitat.

Refresh mulch where needed , about two-three inches deep. Compost mulch is ideal for feeding soil life, while bark mulch can help suppress weeds and reduce erosion. Avoid piling mulch against plant crowns or tree trunks.

November Tips and Tricks

Thu, 06 Nov 2025 18:18:13 GMT

The Rainy Season Has Arrived

There’s no doubt about it — the rainy season has begun! November is historically the wettest month of the year in Oregon, and your landscape will thank you for a little extra preparation. Here are some tips to keep your garden healthy, resilient, and habitat-friendly this season:

General Maintenance

Clean roof and gutters to prevent overflow and protect drainage systems from clogging. Compost or mulch fallen leaves instead of disposing of them — they’re valuable organic matter.
Look for bare soil and cover exposed areas with organic mulch such as medium dark hemlock, arborist chips, or fallen leaves.
Weed first, then mulch to prevent erosion and feed soil lif e.
Mulch insulates plant roots, suppresses weeds, and supports beneficial organisms like earthworms and fungi.
Some tender plants (Fuchsias, Dahlias, Cannas) benefit from an extra “blanket” of mulch to protect from frost.
Remember: mulch in summer also conserves moisture and keeps roots cool.
Check irrigation systems :

Turn off the automatic controller.
Turn off the water at the street or backflow prevention device.
Drain the system if possible to prevent damage from freezing.

Prune tall roses back by about one-third to prevent winter wind damage. Avoid hard pruning until they’re fully dormant later in the winter.

Lawn Care (or Lawn Alternatives!)

If moss is creeping in, it’s a sign of shade, poor drainage, or compacted soil.
Before reaching for moss killer, consider reshaping or reducing your lawn. Converting shaded areas to native groundcovers or meadow plantings benefits pollinators and reduces mowing.
If you maintain lawn areas, aerate, lime (50–80 lb per 1,000 sq ft), and fertilize with a slow-release winter blend to support healthy growth.
Remove fallen leaves promptly. Wet leaves can smother grass, but when raked into planting beds, they become excellent free mulch that improves soil structure and provides habitat for overwintering insects.
Store garden tools and equipment clean and dry: sharpen blades, oil metal surfaces, and disconnect hoses to prevent freeze damage.

Planting & Seasonal Color

Now is the best time to plant or transplant trees and shrubs — roots establish best in cool, moist soil. (Unless we are talking cacti and succulents, let's plant those in Spring!)
Still time for spring bulbs! Get tulips, daffodils, crocus, and alliums in the ground before it freezes.
Force Paperwhite Narcissus indoors for holiday blooms — they flower in about five weeks.
Prune shrubs that bloomed in late summer or fall. Avoid pruning spring bloomers now, as you’d remove next year’s buds.

Soil & Drainage

Watch for water pooling during heavy rains.
If you see soggy areas, consider adding rain gardens, French drains, or dry wells to improve infiltration.
Native sedges, rushes, and moisture-loving ferns thrive in these areas and support native pollinators.
Compost and leaf cover: Spread composted manure or leaf mulch over dormant garden beds to feed soil life and prevent compaction.

Shrubs, Trees & Perennials

Rhododendrons and Azaleas:
If leaves are yellowing, fertilize lightly with an acid-loving plant food while soil is moist.
Never lime these plants. If they’re already green, simply mulch with leaves — they prefer organic matter over extra fertilizer.
Tender perennials like Dahlias or Cannas can be dug, stored, or mulched deeply for winter protection.

Vegetable & Edible Gardens

Garlic can still be planted for harvest next summer.
Fruit trees: rake and remove diseased leaves to prevent fungal spread — replace with clean leaves or bark mulch.
Rhubarb and asparagus beds: top with compost or composted manure.
Cover vegetable beds with a 3–4-inch layer of leaves to prevent compaction and enrich soil for spring planting.
Store potatoes around 40°F in a dark, cool space like a garage.

Habitat & Wildlife

Leave seed heads on native plants, ornamental grasses, echinacea, and rudbeckia to feed birds and shelter beneficial insects.
Add bird habitat:
Provide water, shelter, and native food sources through shrubs like snowberry, elderberry, and red-twig dogwood.
Avoid using slug bait with metaldehyde — instead, hand-pick slugs or use iron phosphate-based alternatives safe for pets and wildlife.

Consider planting Saffron Crocus (Crocus sativus) — a late-blooming crocus that supports pollinators and yields edible spice threads next fall.
Houseplants: reduce fertilizing during low-light months; let them rest until spring.

Winterbloom Plant Sale and Raffle

Mon, 06 Oct 2025 21:28:54 GMT

On Saturday, September 27th, we held our fall plant sale at Thornhurst Garden—and what a day it was! The garden itself provided the perfect backdrop, with the changing leaves and late blooms showing off the season’s beauty.

It was such a joy to see so many friendly faces—neighbors, friends, and new visitors alike—coming together to share their love of plants. Events like these remind us how much community is at the heart of gardening.

The sale helped us find new homes for much of our overstock, and many folks walked away with treasures for their own gardens. Moist fall soil means these plants will settle in happily, making this truly the best season to get them in the ground.

We also held a raffle, and we’re excited to announce that Sarah Reid was our winner! Congratulations, Sarah!

Thank you to everyone who came out to support us, explore the gardens, and bring home plants. We’re already looking forward to the next time we can gather and celebrate together.

(Here’s a look at some of the wonderful people who joined us that day!)

October Tips and Tricks

Mon, 06 Oct 2025 20:32:40 GMT

October might just be the best month of the year. Leaves turn gold and crimson, the first steady rains return to refresh thirsty plants, and the garden hums with renewed activity—birds darting through the branches and insects busy among the late blooms and fallen leaves. Soon, the season’s magic spills beyond the garden as little goblins and witches knock on our doors, candy bags in hand.

For gardeners, fall is more than just a feast for the senses. Cooler days and moist soil create the perfect conditions for transplanting trees, shrubs, and perennials—plants settle in more easily now than in the heat of summer. (Unless we're talking Agaves, transplant those after the Spring rains) The softened ground also makes digging and dividing far less of a chore. Even challenging tasks like ivy removal become easier when the soil gives way beneath the roots. Autumn truly is a season of opportunity: a time to plant, to tidy (or not!), and to prepare the garden for the year ahead while savoring every bit of its fleeting beauty.

The last week of October, but sometimes the first week in November, is the last time that we mow weekly. Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time for yourself. Occasionally, we will have a warm Winter, and a touch-up may be needed.
Eco-lawns- Depending on the seed mix, you can leave these as is, allowing them to form more of a meadow look. This can help create more habitat for wildlife and insects.
October is the first month when we have a higher probability of transplanting from moist, soft soil into a damp, soft new hole. All plants of course prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and the (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time typically extends from the rainy season until approximately the middle of March. Now is the best time to plant in Western Oregon!
If you want Spring blooms, make a trip now to your local nursery and purchase Spring bulbs to plant in the ground! October/November are the traditional months for planting Spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs now, such as Saffron Crocuses and Colchicums.
The rain will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so getting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart off a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs!
The Fall leaves will start to drop all over your yard. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will damage your lawn if left on, sometimes only in a day or two, but they can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. Lots of insects use this leaf litter as their habitat. This is a great way to invite more birds and wildlife into your garden as they forage through the leaves! I love watching them!
This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frost or freezes.
Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them 2” thick over any bare areas in your beds for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help choke out weed seeds from sprouting.
If you are seriously into gardening, here are some more tips.
Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer
Pick any green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen.
Harvest Sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great for birds and human snacking.
Sow native hardy annuals- you can sow these on any bare soil, or you can use gravel mulch and direct sow on that! Some great hardy annuals are California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Red Maids (Calandrinia ciliata), Farewell-to-spring (Clarkia amoena) Gilia capitata, to name a few. Feel free to reach out to us if you have any questions about hardy annuals! A hardy annual is an annual plant you can sow in the Fall, and it will germinate, survive the Winter Months, and grow enough roots to sustain itself. Most of our natives will not require additional water the following year, and if they are happy, they will seed around and come up where they are thriving.

Plant Sale and Raffle Saturday September 27th 9-11 am

Wed, 03 Sep 2025 18:50:53 GMT

We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00!

Bring your friends!

Please RSVP for the event at the link below:

https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact

September Tips and Tricks

Wed, 03 Sep 2025 17:49:54 GMT

Garden Tips and Tricks for September

September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October.

September Gardening Tasks:

Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry.
Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring.
Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas.
Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens.
Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects.
Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November.
Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready.
Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites.
Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November.
Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired.
Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year.
Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.

May Tips and Tricks

Tue, 06 May 2025 15:09:00 GMT

May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden

Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them.
Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues.
Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value.
Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects.
Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs.
Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly.
Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed.
Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects.
Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies.
Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally.
Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting.
Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.

Thank You, and Happy Holidays!

Wed, 18 Dec 2024 16:17:00 GMT

A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative

As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us.

On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party:

As we celebrate the season, we also look forward to the future. With your continued support, we’re excited to keep sowing beauty and creating community.

Wishing you a joyful holiday season,

The Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative Team

October Tips and Tricks

Tue, 08 Oct 2024 21:28:00 GMT

October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. Autumn has arrived, and with it, all the things we love—cooler days, vibrant fall colors, and a fresh start for your garden. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month, and then by Halloween, the rainy season has begun!

The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the chore.
October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon.
If you want more bulbs in your garden to bloom in March, April, or May, visit your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and plant them. October and November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall!
The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs!
The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your garden. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! (Sometimes, only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds.
This month, mulch should be placed around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter.
Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring.
Late October is a great time to broadcast Native hardy annual seeds. If you can get them going now, most species will sail through the summer months with no water needs.

Pro tips:

Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer.
Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen.
Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great birds to set out over the winter for birds or human snacking.
Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping them all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees.
Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating.
Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads.
Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter, and watering them lightly once a month over the winter to keep them alive. Do not let them freeze!
Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put them in moist, sandy soil and cover them with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temperatures. Give them some light from a window, and if they are at room temperature, they will root faster.
Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases.
Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children.
Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage.
Consider manipulating light now to force your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.

September Tips and Tricks

Wed, 11 Sep 2024 14:47:00 GMT

Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024

September and October are my two favorite months of the year. The weather is beginning to cool down, but we still have some beautiful sunny days. Halloween is just around the corner and I have an abundance of bird activity in the garden still. Mornings are noticeably chilly, and it feels nice to add an extra layer to stay warm. The transition to Fall is my favorite!

September Gardening Tasks:

Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up!
September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you.
Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in.
You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives.
September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant . The peak month for planting and transplanting is November.
Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September.
Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes.
Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more.
September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November).
Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October.

Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn

The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May.

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake.
Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have!
Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days.
Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)
Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.

August Tips and Tricks

Fri, 02 Aug 2024 16:43:00 GMT

Summer is full-on, and we can all expect sunny, warm days. I naturally call this time of the year the Dry Season because that is what it normally is! That also means that if I plant ANYTHING, I had better hand water it because irrigation systems are meant to maintain plants, not get them through the hot, dry summer! Next summer, the system will take care of it, but not this summer!

Weeds: I should encounter fewer weeds this month as the dryer weather prevents most seeds from sprouting. Therefore, unless my weeds are setting seeds, I pull them up and lay the helpless little things out in the hot, dry sun, where they can desiccate and turn to mulch!
Mow regularly: I continue mowing at my preferred higher setting for the summer months rather than a low setting—this keeps the lawn healthier. It also helps to shade the grass roots and keep them cooler. This is especially important if I am trying to keep my irrigation system turned down to conserve money and water.
Water: Make sure to water those plants that need a drink! The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate quickly or blow away in the breeze. Generally, I set my irrigation so that it puts out one inch a week for the lawn. (Use up to 2” if it has been hot and dry). The planting beds get about half that amount of water per week! I recommend a drip system as it uses less water, and if you use the underground system, you don’t even see the water as it is under the mulch; there are NO little black spaghetti drippers to trip over!
I always monitor my veggie garden closely so that crops do not dry out, and harvest regularly!
Bouquets in the house! This is a great month to walk through the garden in the cool morning air to pick whatever looks good to bring into the house, either foliage or flowers.
Fertilize: I will fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli this month. I harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Pest Control: I use Bacillus thuringiensis (BT) to control caterpillars on leafy vegetables, Geraniums, and Petunias, as needed. This bacteria is a disease of Caterpillars and won’t harm other creatures, including me! Keep in mind that insects are an important aspect of any habitat garden.
Mulch: I use mulch to protect the soil and the plant’s roots from hot weather damage.
Arborvitae care: It is essential to watch browning patches in the Arborvitae during the hot, dry summer months. This means that spider mite control is needed. They are a problem, particularly with Arborvitae hedges, hose off their foliage once a month, once a day, and for three days in a row. I usually pick the weekend to do this, so I spray once on Friday, then on Saturday, and then on Sunday. Arborvitae hedges are very susceptible to spider mite damage, and as a result, in a hot, dry summer, they can brow out or die! I have seen a lot of dead Arborvitae around. I avoid using Kelthane and other poisons for Spider mites. It is very poisonous for humans and animals. If I can just make the effort, spraying the foliage with water is not that big of a deal!
Fleas: August is an important month to control outdoor fleas with spray (if one has outdoor pets.)

A Trip to Vallarta Botanical Garden-Puerto Vallarta, Mexico PT 2

Fri, 02 Aug 2024 16:25:00 GMT

It’s been a few months since I posted part 1 of my visit to Puerto Vallarta Botanical Gardens, and I've received messages asking when part 2 would be posted, so here you go! If you missed part 1, you can catch it [ here ].

After leaving the beautiful cactus house, we headed to the lower portion of the property, where you can access the river and take a refreshing dip.

The path is lined with a nice display of plants. I didn’t photograph the area this trip, but I enjoyed this view looking back.

We took another path back to the entrance and came across a beautiful metal arbor covered with a vigorous jade vine (Strongylodon macrobotrys).

Big trees with stunning bark can be seen in the distance. I'm not sure of the ID, but they are quite remarkable.

As we navigated the plant-lined path, I could only dream of growing these plants in my own garden.

We made our way back to the entrance and crossed to the other side of the main road, where pottery and plants were for sale.

Oh, how I wish I could grow this!

I love how the stones are set in this water feature.

Next, we moved on to the Bridge of Dreams, which leads to Our Lady of the Garden Chapel.

As you can see, bug repellent is a must.

…but the excursion is worth it. Look at this beautiful mosaic work.

This was my first time noticing the grape tree (Plinia cauliflora), a beautiful example of cauliflory. Cauliflory is an evolutionary adaptation where flowers and fruit develop directly from the trunks and woody branches of plants. You might have noticed redbud trees flower along the stems and older wood. Other examples are fig trees and cacao (chocolate). I’m always fascinated when I see an example.

That’s it. I hope you enjoyed the tour, and if you find yourself in PV, make sure to visit the garden. Thanks,

Vallarta Visitor Map - Jardin Botanico Vallarta Website

July Tips and Tricks

Thu, 27 Jun 2024 19:05:00 GMT

As we transition from Winterbloom, Inc. to Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative , we will be making some changes to our newsletter, but we really want to keep sending you Phil's Tips and Tricks. We may begin adding to these over time or making some changes.

After our cold Winter and mild spring, it is nice to see some sunny days. I've seen reports that we may have a milder summer; let's hope so!

If you have a lawn you want to keep green, July is usually a dry month. We must irrigate lawns liberally to keep the grass from going dormant, but it is also okay to let your lawn go dormant and save some water.
Prune any of your shrubs immediately after they have bloomed if they need it. However, remember that this is important only if it is required! Don’t prune them just to prune them!
Keep up the weeding. Our wet spring grew masses of big weeds! Now, if the weather gets dry and hot, all one must do is cut the roots off or lift the baby weeds and let them dry to death on the ground. They will disappear in the hot sun.
July is the month to fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
Set your mower deck at the highest setting on the mower that you can tolerate. (Many people want to see lawns set at Golf Green elevation, about ¼” high.) However, this does not work well on home lawns, as no homeowners that I know can maintain their lawns to the degree that Golf courses do! The taller grass shades the roots and keeps the lawns healthy!
In an average July, lawns need one inch of water per week. If we have a dry, hot wind, 1.5 to 2 inches does the trick.
Check for Root Weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas. They create nasty notches on the leaves. Nematodes can be used to kill the Weevil larvae in the ground, or sticky traps on the trunk can be used to kill adult Weevils.
Mulch, if you still need to do so, to conserve soil moisture using bark or other organic products like compost or clippings. Never use shredded rubber or ugly dyed bark dust!
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty-looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites), and wash them with water from a hose. Pick a day when you can drench the branches, once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this practice once a month during the dry season. In this way you are acting like a heavy summer rain! This action disrupts their life cycle.
You may dig spring bulbs when tops have died down. Divide them if overcrowded and store them in the garage in paper bags ( NOT plastic). if you have decided where you want to plant them, then go ahead and do it now or wait till fall.
Stake tall-growing perennials as needed. Lilies, Dalmatias, and many tall daisies need this kind of care.
End of month: prune boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly, and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
Mound soil up around base of potatoes. You can gather and eat a few “new” potatoes from each hill. Do not eat the green ones! They are not good for you. Cover up any potatoes which are showing!
Consider planting Mid-summer selections of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family and carrot family (including Dill, Zinnias, Marigolds, Jerusalem Artichokes)
Stake your tomatoes, watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves).
This is a good month to check those areas of your real estate which get little to NO water this time of the year and which possibly do not have any plants now or where you have tried, and plants simply will not grow! Consider a plant design for those areas and then plant drought tolerant (Xerophytic) plants this Fall when the rains begin! If you have questions about this call one of our designers to help you!

Winterbloom Style

Thu, 27 Jun 2024 18:20:00 GMT

The essence of Winterbloom's style – a blend as unique as a rare botanical hybrid! I remember my dad, Phil (founder of Winterbloom), explaining our design philosophy to a client long ago. He called it a mix of Pacific Northwest calmness with a touch of Japanese finesse, sprinkled with the charm of an English garden. It might sound peculiar, but it's a blend that's shaped our landscapes over four decades. And if you know Phil, can you HEAR him say this?!

Picture this: native Pacific Northwest plants mingling with carefully chosen cultivars, each with its own distinct character. For example, we have a slight infatuation for Hardy Fuchsias – originally from Chile and Argentina, yet perfectly at home in our temperate climate. Our design palette spans the globe, thanks to our favorable weather.

A nod to Japanese design principles of harmony and simplicity adds to the flavor of Winterbloom's style sometimes using mossy boulders, expertly pruned Japanese maples, and tranquil bridges.

(Recently, my daughter Eva and I explored San Francisco's Japanese Tea Garden, marveling at its meticulous details. It's a must-visit for nature enthusiasts!)

SF Japanese Tea Garden 2024

SF Japanese Tea Garden

As climate change casts its shadow, we find ourselves at a critical juncture, compelled to embrace and implement xeriscaping – a sustainable design approach that goes beyond mere aesthetics. With water scarcity becoming a pressing concern, xeriscaping champions drought-tolerant plants that not only survive but thrive in arid conditions, reducing the strain on precious water resources. Using plants native to our region or similar and introducing materials such as permeable hardscaping, porous pavements and gravel pathways, allows rainwater to infiltrate the soil, replenishing groundwater supplies and mitigating the risk of urban flooding.

But xeriscaping isn't just about water conservation; it's also about mitigating the urban heat island effect. By strategically planting trees and shrubs to shade buildings and paved surfaces, we can significantly lower ambient temperatures, creating cooler microclimates that benefit both humans and wildlife. This strategic tree placement not only cools the ground but also helps to reduce energy consumption by shading buildings, thereby lowering the demand for air conditioning during the scorching summer months.

In the end, the Winterbloom magic isn't just about plants and designs – it's about the passion, creativity, and care infused by each member of our team. Together, we craft private and public Edens that reflect not just our expanding expertise, but our unwavering commitment to beauty and sustainability.

Cheers to more than 43 years of growth and possibilities. Here's to Winterbloom – where every landscape tells a story, and every garden whispers of dreams yet to bloom.

Two wonderful client's gardens

Thanks!

May Tips and Tricks

Tue, 14 May 2024 16:02:00 GMT

I apologize for getting so busy that I forgot to publish the Winterbloomer. My Tips and Tricks are late. Fortunately, everyone knows that one can garden in May! It has been lovely to enjoy rainfall! I hope we will not have a heat wave year and this current warm trend will prevail.

May Tips and Tricks:

I consider May the month to purchase annuals to plant outside in my pots or flower beds. (However, remember that it is not time yet to plant the ones that like HEAT, such as tomatoes and basil. The reason is that the soil has not yet warmed up enough by now, and the nights are still cool. So, if one plants these warmer season plants, they most likely will sit & pout, rot, or drown if it rains or if you irrigate too much.
Lawn and beds. If the rain has not been enough, it is time to begin moderate irrigation. In April, most people consider turning on their irrigation systems (if they have them) if it is dry. I recommend using this month as an irrigation check month so that if the month turns dry, I am all prepared!
I Fertilize the lawn with a natural (non-petrochemical) fertilizer just before I run the irrigation or before it rains so that the fertilizer will sink down to the roots and not burn my lawn.
I mow regularly. I set my lawn mower one setting higher than I set it in April.
I do not have this problem, but if you have found that you need to thatch and renovate your lawn to get the water to penetrate during the coming dry months, I have a recommendation. I have found that if I use natural fertilizer (no petroleum derivatives), I have yet to take this step. I believe that it is because the earthworms take care of the dead grass/stems called thatch and keep my ground free draining. Using petrochemicals burns their little skin or kills them outright and makes them leave my lawn!
Weed now! If I do a minimum of weeding, I always pull up the ones that are visibly going to seed first and then get what I can of the others. The others can often wait until another day if I do not have the time today. Five-minute weedings can be critical!
Begin root weevil control. These little critters notch Rhododendron leaves and make them look terrible! I often use nematodes for the beetle larvae. The nematodes come in a liquid that is kept in the refrigerator at your nursery because they are alive. Another alternative for adults is sprinkling DE (diatomaceous earth) around the plants' ground surface. A final way to get to the adults is to use sticky traps on the trunks of the plants to trap them. They cannot fly, and because they must walk up the trunk to get to the tender leaves, they get stuck. This is also cool because you get to see the results.
I usually leave the composting leaf and stem litter from my trimmings and leaf fall, which naturally drops from the trees and shrubs right on the ground underneath all shrubs, perennials, and trees. This is usually enough fertilizer for all my plants to do well. I do not fertilize any of these plants unless they look stressed or have chlorotic leaves, and then I use "Alaska Fish Fertilizer." Of course, my annuals, such as veggies and annual bedding flowers, need liquid fertilizer as they have only one season to do their job!
Consider planting Chrysanthemums now for a burst of fall color that will return unexpectedly every year. They like full sun and good drainage; do not plant them where water drains to them. They are also excellent plants for pollinators.
Control aphids by washing the foliage with soap suds, removing them by hand, or promoting natural predators, such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of tiny, shiny, black beetles on cabbage and potatoes indicate a flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (Bacillus thuringiensis), or wash with soapy water. Pick them off if you can see them or all the above.
I control slugs with bait, salt, or by smashing. There is always the 'Beer in the bowl' method where one gets them soused, and they drown in their own drink!
Prune only those plants that really need it, but remember, wait until after they flower!
Later this month or the first week of June, plant the warm-season vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, cucumbers for slicing and pickling, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, and onions.
I spray fruit, nut, and shade trees for tent caterpillars, but only if present.

Get out there and do this now! Remember that doing so will reduce boredom associated with leftover COVID-19 cloistering and any under-stimulation from electronic media and sofa lounging. Being in your garden will get you in touch with the natural world! Smell the air, listen to the birds, the fluttering leaves, and the frogs, and feel the sun and wind in your hair!

A Trip to Vallarta Botanical Garden-Puerto Vallarta, Mexico PT 1

Thu, 29 Feb 2024 16:23:00 GMT

In early February, my partner and I traveled to Puerto Vallarta for a week of relaxing and exploring. In no scenario should one visit Puerto Vallarta without paying a visit to Vallarta Botanical Garden. The garden is just a 30-minute drive from downtown PV. So we decided on a day and looked up the bus route to visit. This will be my 4th visit, but my last visit was about six years ago, and I am excited to see what's new.

After a scenic and economical 30-minute bus ride, costing us merely 50 pesos, we arrived at our lush destination. The entrance to the Vallarta Botanical Garden greeted us with its enchanting entryway, a prelude to the botanical wonders that awaited.

As we paid the entrance fee and proceeded, the main road leading into the heart of the gardens beckoned us to explore further. Each step took us deeper into the garden, where a symphony of birds accompanied us. The path to the garden is lined with an array of plants, from the dramatic silhouettes of the black elephant ear plants- Colocasia, with their large leaves absorbing every ray of sunshine, to the fiery colors of bromeliads, igniting the green canvas with reds, yellows, and oranges.

I remember pausing for a moment to admire an agave plant, standing proudly with its sharp leaves pointing skyward, a sentinel among the softer textures around it. In its company, fallen delicate, purple Bougainvillea flowers added a touch of whimsy to the scene.

Upon closer inspection, there was a visitor on the Agave.

Oh my goodness, this Tillandsia is gorgeous; native to Jalisco, Mexico- Tillandsia jalisco-monticola is quite large. My internet search confirmed my hunch that this plant is stunning when in full bloom.

We then ventured into one of the open air conservatories, The Daneri Vireya Rhododendron House. The air was heavy with the sweet perfume of blooming orchids. This covered area sheltered a stunning variety of plants, each more 'swoon-worthy' than the last.

Among them, tropical Rhododendron species caught my attention. Its presence is a reminder of the diversity that thrives under the care of the Vallarta Botanical Gardens. Rhododendron sect. vireya from SE Asia.

Vallarta Botanical Gardens is easily a half-day leisurely exploration. Before setting out, use sunscreen and bug repellent to enjoy the experience fully. And for those looking for a refreshing pause, pack a towel and shorts. A serene river accessible by one of the garden's trails offers a delightful opportunity to wade and cool down amidst the jungle.

Continuing our adventure, we wandered towards the beautiful Hacienda De Oro, where an incredible display of aquatic plants greets you at the entrance. The gentle murmur of water and the ruckus sound of birds provided a soothing backdrop as we admired lily pads and koi gliding through the water.

But I heard the call of the Cactus House, which was irresistible. With anticipation, we made our way to this spiky sanctuary. For a moment, I lost track of my partner; I didn't tell him which way I was going; I just headed off as if being lured; I was eager to see the desert dwellers. This is a covered area, with beds built up in berms and small boulders that lifts the plants to eye level.

These displays are wonderful!

From the Vallarta Botanical Garden Website:
"Vallarta Botanical Gardens is a leading environmental organization in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, with the mission to study, preserve, and display Mexican native plants for the enjoyment of locals and international visitors and has been a top conservation leader in Mexico for over 17 years. From a world-class facility in Puerto Vallarta, Mexico, Vallarta Botanical Garden provides an unprecedented opportunity to share the wonder of the vast diversity of Mexico’s unrivaled and unique plant species with people from around the world. The assembled botanical collections are housed in a safe environment, and the Garden maintains the most-visited public collection of orchids in the country of Mexico.
Additionally, The Vallarta Botanical Garden has focused on protecting endangered species and habitats since its founding in 2004. In an ongoing campaign, Vallarta Botanical Garden plays a vital role in a decade-long conservation project for the emblematic military macaw (ara militaris mexicanus), which was vanishing from the area until recently. The artificial nest box project has provided a vital link in the reproduction of this apex species, and wild military macaws can be seen daily at the botanical garden."

There is still so much to share from this visit, so this post will have two parts. Join me next month and I'll take you deeper into the garden.

Thanks,
Dale

March Tips and Tricks

Wed, 28 Feb 2024 19:43:00 GMT

After the spots of cold weather we had this winter since the turn of the year, I hope that March lessens this winter’s cold grip on us. Remember: if you see damage to your broadleaf evergreens, do NOT cut them back now, wait until they begin to bud out in the spring! You may find that they do need to be cut to the ground, but they may simply need to grow new foliage along the stems and on the tips! The beginning of Spring is about 20 days away, so I am hopeful that we have no more disastrous freezes!

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of March:

This is what I think of as the best time to purchase perennial plants at my local nursery. Currently, many of the perennials are in small, 4” containers and are ready to grow. Instead of waiting for those same plants to grow at the nursery, it’s better to purchase them now and let them grow in my landscape, rather than wait until they are larger before purchasing and ending up needing to pay more! This logic also goes for shrubs and trees. Right now, is the time to get the best value for your purchase. If you wait till it is warm and sunny, and the plants are blooming in their pots, the prices will increase, and you will miss the early bird choices and possibilities! So, go now to your favorite local nursery! Cornell Farms, Gardner’s choice, Xera, Cistus, and Bosky Dell are some that I check out regularly!
It is important, if you have not already done so, to quickly prune off any of last year’s ugly brown foliage left on your perennial plants. It is good to do that now before the new sprouts begin to pop out of the ground! I am still working on it here!
I am continuing to weed to prevent any of them from going to seed! I always pull out any weeds which are getting close to going to seed first. Seriously, if you weed now, before they go to seed and make their babies, your summer weeding will be so much easier! (And, if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time - just please be careful when using this sort of thing!!)
I continue to bait for slugs!
March is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it soon, before the plants begin to sprout. If a plant is sprouting a lot, it might be best to leave it alone and wait for next fall to move it.
I wait to prune my spring-flowering shrubs until the blossoms fade, and then I only prune them if they really need it.
I trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished, that is usually later in March. This keeps them nice and tight and full.
Now is the time to cut off all my Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to unfurl all their new fronds. I focus mainly on the ferns that I can see along a path or from a window. Obviously, if you own a woodsy section, you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods! No one does it out in the forest, this action is for the fern to look good. It does not affect their health!
I fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas with compost or (only if necessary) I use an acid-type fertilizer (an indicator is that the leaves are yellow).
I spread mulch over the garden and landscape areas which didn’t get mulched well enough so that there is bare ground showing. Bare ground is an invitation for weeds!
Lawn-mowing begins sometime in March, so I set my blade at the lowest setting that I am comfortable with: ¾”-1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses - I set it as low as I can without permanently damaging the lawn. It will look very shorn after I do this, and it might take me three tries to get it cut down to the level that I want. The grass will also be wet and green, so if you do that, try to avoid clogging up or killing your lawn mower! I also do not leave the clumps on the grass this month as I know that it will create brown spots. I throw the clumps into the beds or into the composter.
This is the time for the first 2024 application of lawn fertilizer (after the first mowing). My preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical; suggested 16-5-5).
I Fertilize my cane berries with manure/compost (if a natural fertilizer, I suggest 10-10-10). I Prune out the dead wood on my Raspberries, Blueberries and Gooseberries to keep them from getting too big, then I spread wood shavings, and as needed, manure/compost.

February Tips and Tricks

Mon, 29 Jan 2024 19:27:00 GMT

What a cold and icy January we have all experienced! We lost an entire six working days to frozen ground. The first half of February can always bring another blast; however, going from my past experiences, I have only had two winters in our 40+ years where we have had severe weather after. February 15th is a big day; reaching it always gives me hope because, in years past, we have often had a bit of sunshine and a taste of Spring weather around that date. It gets everyone in the mood, and we start getting calls on the office phone, wanting to get work done. The weather causes people to panic, saying, oh gosh, we really need to get that drainage work done, that rock wall completed, the yard redesigned, etc., because Spring is right around the corner, and we want to be outside and enjoy it!

It is time to begin baiting for slugs. Place the bait near things that they love to munch on. Beer in a pan works for some folks. I have also taken objects like wood or pottery and set them in areas slugs enjoy, and they will use this as a resting place. I flip it over, now and then, and pick them off to eliminate them. The worst are the little squishy grey ones imported from Europe. They are tiny but powerful because they choose to chew through lettuce and other succulent garden items, and they are hard to find.
Weed! Now is the time when weeds are small, weak, and helpless. I take one section of my yard per weekend and work around the yard by the end of March. It saves me hours of work later in the warm weather when I am in the mood to do other things!
This is a great time to plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs from containers (or try bare-rooted, less expensive plants) and transplant.
I Plant perennials and herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage, and thyme (remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
I Prune fruit trees as needed.
I Prune and train grapes.
I Prune my roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the premier place to purchase self-rooted roses that are not grafted. The advantage here is if we have a really cold winter and the top dies back, the roots will come back true to the variety, and I will not get a wild rose coming up from the roots because that is what they graft most roses onto!
I like to Prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, and flowering cherries and bring them inside to force early blooms. They make substantial, bountiful bouquets!
I Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis, and hydrangea. I do not prune spring flowering shrubs, such as azaleas and Rhodies; or I will end up cutting off the bloom buds.
I Prune back Fuchsias and other perennials which have not been pruned back to about four inches. This year has been cold enough so one might wonder whether the Fuchsias have really died to the ground or been killed. So, I have learned to just handle the bare stick look and wait to see just how far up the little green buds come out on the stems and trim them down to that mark. It has been so cold that quite possibly this Spring they all might just come up from the roots instead, so I will need to be very careful and look for their little green shoots coming up from the ground around the brown stems!
I spread compost mulch two inches thick every two–three years. Composted mulch is best, but dark bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do this in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season, and in the rainy season it prevents erosion. I also place my tree leaves and light trimmings in my beds. I find that this cuts down on the need for very much mulch most years.

For adventuresome gardeners:

It is that time when one can make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers. Of course, doing this in the garage with a UV light is another option.
Plant seed flats for crops in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors, using your cold frame, hot bed or garage starting beds.
Prepare soil for future planting of the grow pots and flats of seedlings that you are starting.
Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae. This is a nice non-petroleum-based spray.
I like to choose that time well because then I can use the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.

January Tips and Tricks

Wed, 27 Dec 2023 21:09:00 GMT

Wow, one more year has passed! It is now 2024. January and February are the months of the year when I am poised to shut off my outdoor faucets on the nights that will go below 30! I still need to turn off my irrigation system, but I hesitate as the system recharges my waterfall/pond and there are often dry periods in the winter when it needs to be on.

Here are some tips and tricks for January:

It continues to be a great time to transplant or plant anything hardy. Of course, I would only do this when the temperature is above freezing! However, that is fine because I am not interested in transplanting or planting into frozen rock-hard ground! The plants want moist and receptive soil, and I need it, too, for my shovel and arms!
I can choose to plant Pea seeds this month! YES!! All the main types of peas can be planted now. However, I must see that the ground is ready for planting them. There are sweet peas (the ones grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or (eating peas) which I can choose to plant. I have yet to prepare a spot in my veggie garden where the ground will not be used for something else. I know from experience that if I procrastinate and wait for warm weather to plant the peas, their insect and fungal enemies will be ready to jump on them, so if I plant them now, or at least in February, their enemies will still be asleep! All peas like well-drained and workable soil and can easily grow from seeds. They all like to climb, so I always put up some net or trellis alongside my planting row!

Here are the edible peas which I plant:

Shelled peas - These peas are shelled, and the shells are discarded.
Snap peas - This pea pod is full, thick, and crisp with peas inside. The whole thing is sweet, and one can eat pod and all, raw and fresh. We usually use this one as a snack with dips or in salads. Occasionally, we cook them.
Snow peas - This is the pea pod typically used in Asian stir-fry dishes. It is more of a thin, rubbery pod, which is picked early & young from the vine before it fills out with the peas inside.

It is still a good time to scatter most wildflower seeds, such as California Poppy and Clarkia.
It is still too early for me to start most other seeds for spring vegetable or annual flower plants, that means in the garden or a cold frame for use as transplants.
It is essential to water many of my landscape plants underneath my wide roof eaves, which are protected from our rain, about once a month. I monitor them until the irrigation is turned on. Outside, cats can also begin using these dry places as litter boxes, and then they can become smelly, and the urine can burn the leaves of the plants! Watering the area dilutes the urine and washes it away.

Moss appearing in my lawn now usually means there is too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction, resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year for me to decide what I will do. My options are twofold: either get rid of some of the shade or shrink some of the lawn so I have less lawn trying to grow in the shade.

Shade is the enemy of grass and, at the same time, encourages moss. Moss can quickly out-compete any lawn if it is a half-shade situation. However, moss killer is easily applied. I only use Iron or ferrous sulfate (as the active ingredient), so it is not poisonous to humans or animals. I monitor my trees, and if they are getting too big and shading too much of my lawn, the first option is to remove the shaded part of the lawn. Another alternative is to remove some of the branches /or remove the whole tree if I want lawn in that location!
For indoor winter color, I gather branches of budding quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries and bring them inside. I first mash the bottom of the stems before placing them into a sizeable water-filled vase. The warmth of our home will force the buds on the sides of the branches to bloom early for beautiful bouquets.
I Monitor my houseplants weekly for correct watering, fertilizing, and guarding against insect infestations! I dust leaves. I use a low-level fertilizer like “Oxygen Plus,” I am cautious not to overwater this time of the year!
This is also when I look at all my trees, shrubs, and perennials and plan out needed pruning projects to commence with my winter pruning!

The History of Winterbloom, 40 Years of Great Landscapes and Wonderful Connections!

Wed, 15 Nov 2023 16:39:00 GMT

From the fall of 1979 to the fall of 1982, I worked as the field and laboratory testing manager for a geotechnical company called L. R. Squier Associates. A recession happened during the early 80s, interest rates for mortgages on homes ranged from 11% to 17%, and employment was hard to come by. I was laid off from L.R. Squier in October of 1982 and began looking for work, taking a class on vocations and employment preparation. I was assessed and told that I had artistic talents, the learned skills to manage a geotechnical laboratory as well as its field assignments, and many skills in the field of horticulture but that I should work for someone else and not seek to own or start a company because they determined that I had no business understanding as well as being low in math skills and accounting.

I found a job working part-time at minimum wage for Gerber Gardens in Lake Oswego. I enjoyed working with their employees, selling to clients, and learning about their various plants. I did not earn enough to support our family, so Barb began cleaning the homes of our Tigard Community Friends congregation members.

While working there, I was often asked to work on the Gerber Gardens landscape installation crew, and I liked it very much. I discovered that many nursery clients who came to purchase plants needed maintenance of their yards or help to plant the plants they had purchased. At that same time, our pastor, Roy Skeeter, and a close friend, Adele Beck, who owned an Interior Design business in Portland, recommended that we start a landscape company. They suggested we begin the business while I worked part-time at Gerber Gardens. After much prayer and consideration, we decided to start this risky adventure.

I asked Bill and Beth Gerber if I could moonlight with their nursery clients on the side. They said yes; however, I could not perform any installation work for their nursery clients, only gardening and simple planting help, specifically with the plants they had purchased. I began offering my service to them on these tasks. I planned to use our car when Barb did not need it. When not working, I would take Serenity, who was about 5, to help me collect bottles worth a nickel apiece.

This small amount of money was beneficial for cash purchases of milk; for instance, we used it on cereal and to make macaroni and cheese, both favorites of the girls at that time. While looking for these bottles on a dark, rainy day in January of 1983, we found some low-growing, bright pink, winter-blooming plants in a neighbor’s yard. Upon inquiry, the elderly homeowner told us that they were Cyclamen coum. We were permitted to dig up one small clump to take home to grow and propagate.

I was fascinated that such a small plant could bring so much cheer to my heart at that dismal time of the year.

By the fall of 1983, I had built up enough clientele from Gerber Gardens work and their referrals that I could apply for and was approved for a business license with the state of Oregon.

I chose to call the new company Winterbloom, using the Cyclamen coum as the logo. I decided on a motto, “Creating Private Edens One Home at a Time,” a little later, hoping to make this rather high-sounding title a reality with our clients. Winterbloom was housed and administered from our tiny home in the Lake Grove portion of Lake Oswego. My parents, Paul and Leona Thornburg, lent us $2,000 to purchase a used Toyota pickup truck to haul soil, rocks, and plants for potential clients and the wheelbarrow and hand tools I might need.

In 1984-86, Winterbloom took on the redesign and landscape remodel of one of Adele Beck’s interior design client’s homes near Taylors Ferry Road in Portland (see pictures below). That work allowed Winterbloom to grow. I found that I needed part-time help.

I hired my first employee, Roger Morse. During the next few summers after Roger moved away, I hired a high schooler, Craig Haisch, who eventually also went away to college but continued to help me in the summer months.

In 1986-1990, Winterbloom began the design and followed up with the installation of a new landscape for another client of Adele Beck’s, who was building a new home on the hillside above St. Vincent Hospital. This job was challenging, eventually including two water features, several paths, beds, and steps on the steep hillside.

In 1991, we moved from Lake Grove area of Lake Oswego to Sattler Street in Tigard, using the home’s larger garage and side yard for the business tools and shop. In 1991, we hired my sister Miriam Bock, who came on board taking classes in design, art, and color at the same time while I taught her about plants and landscape design. Her first job was to help Phil on a large project in Newberg.

In 1992, Alan Peterson was interviewed, but I did not believe that he could handle hard work as he was a disgruntled lawyer. However, at Alan’s insistence that he could do the work, Miriam and I gave him the hard job of pushing wheelbarrows of gravel up a plywood ramp to a back yard during a storm with a rainy east wind in the Rocky Butte area. Alan succeeded, made it through the day and he was hired.

In 1989-1992, we accomplished the design and installation of our most extensive redesign-remodeling landscape installation to date in Newberg, another client of Adele Beck. It included a swimming pool, hot tub, patio, sports court, a large arbor, and big perennial beds. We used several contractors, and I oversaw all the installation, including irrigation, concrete, and excavation.

We hired Jae Munson and Brent Kimberly in the summer of 93. Brent left to pursue becoming a physician that fall. Jae stayed to learn landscape installation and worked off and on, eventually becoming our first installation manager in 95-96. Matt Schwab, a friend of Jae Munson, joined Winterbloom in '96 but left the following year, only to return full-time in 1998, eventually becoming our Installation manager. Jae Munson returned to Winterbloom full-time after graduating from U of O in Eugene in 1999.

Andy Coulombe came to work in 1998, working on the installation team with Matt and Jae. Mike Baker was hired in 2000 to help with installations. In 1998-1999, we installed a significant columnar basalt water feature for a client in Milwaukie.

Joel Bock joined the team for a short time in 2001. Winterbloom had grown too large for all the equipment to be stored at our Tigard Sattler Street home garage and side yard. So, Barb and I took the big step of moving everything to the Burnham Road business park near downtown Tigard but kept our office in our home. This move allowed for increased capacity and the ultimate expansion of the business.

Then, in 2002, we moved as a family from Sattler Street to 98th Ave in Tigard, creating more office space in the daylight basement for myself, drafting tables for landscape designers, and a location for a part-time bookkeeper and office worker.

Slowly, I learned and developed systems with the help of business coaches to create a functioning design department, a gardening/maintenance department, and an installation department, each intended to augment and help the other departments. Most employees were at first expected to perform maintenance on maintenance days and installations on installation days. Miriam and I took care of the landscape designs, and I ran sales, oversaw the installation and gardening departments, and performed the bookkeeping until 1991 when we hired a part-time bookkeeper. As time passed, Miriam became the design manager, Ann Taylor became the gardening manager, and Matt Schwab became the installation manager.

In 2003 -2004, Winterbloom redesigned and remodeled a landscape around a large existing home being remodeled for clients who lived in Warren, Oregon, between Scappoose and St. Helens. In 2004, I was invited to a home in the Stafford area to redesign their home landscape. As we talked, she noticed that our Winterbloom brochure featured the Warren client’s extensive remodel, which was her friend’s house!

She was sold on our becoming their designer, too! Their design-installation was completed in 2005 and was far enough along to be entered into the 2015 ANLD landscape design tour.

In 2003, Mike Baker left to begin his own business, and we hired Eric Bock, my nephew, part-time to help with the crews. Serenity Coulombe, our eldest daughter, began helping part-time in the office. We later hired Vickie Davis, who stayed on for a good run as office manager. In 2004, Jae Munson left to become a firefighter! His long stint of working at Winterbloom was so appreciated.

Dale Hickey joined Winterbloom in 2007 and grew to take over Ann Taylor’s position as manager of our Landscape maintenance and gardening department.

In 2006-2008, we designed and installed a new landscape for the same clients who had sold their home above St. Vincent Hospital, which we had landscaped previously! This new estate was located on Skyline Boulevard in Portland with a beautiful view north and east toward the Columbia River. We were given the latitude to install three water features, extensive beds, paths, and walls to make this home special.

In 2010, The downturn in the economy caused by the housing and insurance scandals of 2008 caused a severe financial situation for us! We found that we needed to lay off several employees, including Miriam, which was a tough action. This left Matt, Aaron, Eric, Josh DeGraaf, and Dale to keep maintenance and installation running. Later that year, Matt left Winterbloom to begin Inspiration Plantation, and Eric Bock took over as Installation manager.

Winterbloom recovered from this downturn and hired Diana Weston as our office manager and bookkeeper. She challenged me to delegate more work to our employees to perform and to focus more on what I could do that no one else could. This was an epiphany for me and gave me a goal to work toward.

We hired John Gammons in 2011 to help with installation and gardening crews as needed; John came to us, adding enormously to our understanding of Botany and horticulture.

In 2015, we took the next step in growing the company. We created a sales position with a company vehicle to continue building Winterbloom. Eric Bock was promoted to manage our installation sales and our installation department.

Samara Hand, our youngest daughter, joined us as our bookkeeper in 2016 to help us upgrade our financials to a more professional level of accounting. Our daughter Serenity was rehired to begin training as a designer under Miriam Bock that same year.

Forrest Cammack was hired in 2017 to help with the installation crew. He spoke Spanish, which improved our communication with our competent and knowledgeable foreman, Gerardo, and Forrest learned landscape installation under Gerardo and Steve Hauser.

Rebekah Cammack was hired to work part-time in maintenance and in the office in 2018. In 2020, Austin Snodgrass was hired to help in both installation and maintenance crews as needed. Steph was hired as our office manager in 2020, replacing Rebekah, who had been promoted to managing and growing our landscape design department.

Winterbloom continued to build and grow, causing us to take the giant step in February of 2021 to move our office, sales, and design departments from our home on Sattler Street to Bonita Road in Tigard, where they were joined with the Maintenance/Gardening and Installation departments which also moved from the location on Burnham Street in downtown Tigard. This was a significant endeavor! Steph managed the office move-in, and Steve Hauser managed the shop move-in. This was part of our long-term plan to separate the business from our home, encouraging more independence of the company and allowing it to be purchased more efficiently by another entity.

In July of 2022, Rebekah moved on from her position as Design Department Manager to obtain a degree in Landscape Architecture in Berkeley, California. Serenity was promoted to Design Department Manager, with Dale continuing to train in Computer-Aided Design (because all our designs had been hand drawn up to this point).

In 2022, a group of Winterbloom employees began discussing becoming a legal cooperative and purchasing Winterbloom from Phil and Barb Thornburg. In July 2023, Eric left after working with Winterbloom for 20 years! He has been missed! Mike Baker was rehired after 20 years to take over the Sales and Installation Manager position from Eric. In October of 2023, Winterbloom celebrated its 40th year as a company.

November Tips and Tricks

Thu, 26 Oct 2023 14:10:00 GMT

The rains have returned with gusto. Since they started earlier in October this year, even the freeway grass is beautifully green! Here are November's tips and tricks.

Mulching: I like to look around for bare soil exposed spots in my planting beds and cover them with an organic mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). Of course, I make sure to weed that space first! This action will insulate my plants from the potential cold to come, prevent erosion, and, as the mulch breaks down, this material feeds the soil fauna and flora, giving the plant's roots their valuable nutrients. Some plants, such as Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Cannas, always need an extra blanket of mulch around their base to stave off the cold. It is good to remember that this same mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out as quickly and from overheating on hot days!
I seek to provide winter protection to built-in irrigation systems by #1. turning off the automatic controller and then #2. Turn off the water to the system at the street or backflow prevention device #3. If your system has a drain, remember to drain it!
I prune my roses back about 1/3 in height to prevent winter wind damage. I do this, however, only on tall roses that could blow over or break off without this step. They are not yet dormant in our climate, so I prefer to wait to do all the major pruning until February.
If moss appears in my lawn, it probably tells me I have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility, soil compaction, or all of the above. I use a lawn moss killer as a first step. However, sometimes, I have decided to shrink the size of my lawn, which is next to the trees or structures, because they may be causing too much shade. Fertilizing and liming my lawn also encourages the grass but discourages the moss. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what shrinking the size of the lawn might look like during the window of time when I do not have to mow it!
This is the time for me to repair the lawnmower and other garden equipment before storing them for winter. I intend to clean and sharpen the blades, oil the tools and tend equipment before storing them. I store my hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib because in freezing weather, I have found that if they have not been turned off and appropriately drained, they burst!
Now is the best time to lime my lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet.
I Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer.
Often, I purchase Paperwhite Narcissus bulbs from the nursery for the holidays. They are available now and can be easily forced for indoor bloom. They will bloom in approximately five weeks from when one starts them in an indoor container. Usually, the nursery will answer any questions that you have about this. Their fragrance is truly amazing December and January!
I use this season to plant new landscape trees and shrubs or transplant them.
I also use this time to begin pruning the plants that just bloomed in late summer and October.
There is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs, but I have learned the hard way…. Don't delay! The nurseries run out of the best bulbs fast!
I watch for wet soil and drainage problems in my yard during heavy rains. I have used dry wells/French drains and ditches as possible solutions. If you have a question about this in your yard, you can call us, and we would be happy to take a look.
I sometimes lightly fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas, which now may have yellow leaves, for better spring green-up. It is essential to Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. So, I ensure the soil is moist when I fertilize, and I try not to over-fertilize! Magnesium sulfate is a good choice this time of the year to encourage plants in pots and the ground if the leaves are yellow. If green, I leave them alone and allow the organic debris to fertilize them.
I bait garden and flower beds for slugs during the rainy periods.
I always remove leaves off the lawn as soon as I can. Leaves left on my lawns can quickly damage the grass! If the leaves are quickly moved into the beds, there is a positive reaction in that they will act as free mulch, and they will NOT hurt the plants.

Advanced Gardening tips:

Consider planting Crocus sativus (Saffron Crocus) now to harvest NEXT fall.
Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants water less frequently and change to Oxygen Plus rather than giving any nitrogen.
Consider supplying food and shelter to attract wild birds to the garden.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area like a garage.
We still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent the possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around the base of fruit trees. Use other leaves or bark instead.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall).
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over the dormant vegetable garden area. A three to four-inch layer of raked leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost.
If you have a hedge of Arborvitae, consider tying up the limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall, or cut them down by 1/3 or so.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives, or flowers for the dark rainy season ahead

October Tips and Tricks

Mon, 25 Sep 2023 21:54:00 GMT

I have seen Christmas decorations in Costco, so it must be October! October is the transition month for weather in western Oregon. We are technically in autumn but still have several warm, clear, sunny days this month. Often, we begin experiencing some weighty rains about mid-month, and then the rainy season usually starts by Halloween at the end of the month!

The last week of October is the last time we mow lawns weekly. (Occasionally, the first week in November). Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time to end this weekly chore.
October is the first month we have a higher probability of transplanting from moist, soft soil into a wet, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon.
If you want more bulbs in your yard to have blooms in March, April, or May, now is the time to make a trip to your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and get them planted. October/November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much bloom from them until next fall!
The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs!
The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over our yards. Remember to keep the leaves off the lawn/grass areas. Instead, rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves may cause permanent damage if left on your lawns! (Only one day can sometimes leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds.
This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter.
Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring.

Pro tips:

Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer.
Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen.
Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great to have over the winter for birds or human snacking.
Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees.
Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to prepare them for cracking and eating.
Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads.
Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter. Once a month, over the winter, water them lightly to keep them alive. Do NOT let them freeze!
Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put in moist, sandy soil and cover with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temps. Give them some light from a window; if they are at room temperature, they will root faster.
Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases.
Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children.
Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage.
Consider beginning the process of manipulating light to begin forcing your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Trap moles. Avoid baits and poisons; they harm the food chain as other animals eat the Moles and become poisoned themselves. Here is a local option that many have found to be helpful. It is a percussive method that seems to work: https://www.molecat.com/

Unveiling Koko Crater's Blooming Oasis: An Unexpected Journey

Mon, 25 Sep 2023 21:12:00 GMT

As the breeze of September began to sweep through, my partner and I found ourselves soaking up the sun on the wonderful shores of O’ahu for my 50 ^th birthday. Every traveler has their "thing" – that one activity they must indulge in, wherever they are. For me? It's the allure of botanical gardens. Despite it being my first visit to O’ahu, a little birdie (well, more like a Google search) whispered about the enchanting Koko Crater Botanical Garden. The prospect was too tempting to resist.

Tucked away in the embrace of an ancient cinder cone, the Koko Crater Botanical Garden unfolds like a living tapestry across 60 acres of land. A spacious two-mile trail meanders through the garden, each turn introducing us to a unique flora spectacle. The history of the place is etched on a sign that tells of its origin:

“In 1958, Koko Crater was set aside for development into a botanical garden. Plant collections occupy sixty acres of the inner slopes and basin of this 200-acre crater site. This garden focuses on the cultivation of rare and endangered dryland plants. Xeriscape concepts are used to transform this dry landscape into a garden where plants suitable to these desert-like surroundings can flourish.”

Sounds lovely!!!

Our hike, though meant to be brisk, took on a languid pace, punctuated by countless photo stops. I'm guilty of being a shutterbug, and who wouldn't be in such an amazing setting!?

The path brings you to the Plumeria garden first. Towering Plumeria trees stood like sentinels, their blooms vibrant. Each whiff of the air was a delight, dominated by the intoxicating aroma of the blossoms. I had seen Plumeria before, but nothing quite like this with rows of towering Plumeria trees.

With each step we took, the garden was unfolding, and we were guided on a journey through carefully placed signposts. As if reading a captivating book where each chapter promises a new adventure, the anticipation of what lay ahead only intensified our excitement.

As we rounded a bend, a riot of colors greeted us. The Bougainvillea, with its vibrant bracts in shades of magenta and red, seemed to dance in the light. It was as though they were celebrating the sun, draping themselves over rocks and intertwined with other plants.

With them we encountered some Hibiscus; often hailed as the queen of tropical flowers – presented themselves in all their glory. Their large, trumpet-shaped flowers in radiant hues of reds, pinks, and yellows looked like nature's very own trumpets.

While each bend in the trail introduced us to a new floral spectacle, there was an overarching theme that became apparent – the conservation and celebration of dryland plants from across the globe. Every section we explored became more and more exciting.

In the heart of O'ahu, amidst the lush tropics Hawaii is renowned for, discovering this unexpected palette of dryland flora was both surprising and enlightening. The Koko Crater Botanical Garden defied the typical Hawaiian botanical narrative. Instead of the predictable, it offered an educational voyage through the diverse terrains of our planet, showcasing how life, even in the harshest of conditions, finds a way to not just survive, but flourish in spectacular beauty.

As our journey through the garden unfolded, we soon found ourselves stepping into the intriguing landscapes of Africa and Madagascar. These sections, distinguished by their unique flora, felt like stepping into another world.

The path unfurled beneath our feet, leading us towards specimens that truly captivated my botanical heart. The Tree Aloes stood tall and proud, their long, spiky leaves stretching upwards in a show of resilience and beauty. These architectural wonders, native to Africa, are known not just for their aesthetic appeal but also for their medicinal properties, a testament to nature's multifaceted offerings.

But amidst this diverse collection, the true showstoppers for me were the Pachypodiums. These fascinating succulents, often referred to as "Madagascar palms," possess a unique combination of spiny trunks and lush, green tops. A paradox of both forbidding and inviting, they stand as a testament to the wonders of evolution. Native to both Madagascar and the African mainland, Pachypodiums are a symbol of resilience and adaptation. In the wild, these plants withstand drought and intense heat.

Every turn, every corner in these sections held a new surprise, a fresh story, and a lesson in the incredible diversity and tenacity of nature. The Koko Crater Botanical Garden had managed to encapsulate the essence of these faraway lands in a manner both educational and awe-inspiring.

I will leave you with photos of the Dryland Palms section.

Thanks!

Seasons of Change

Thu, 31 Aug 2023 19:11:00 GMT

Deep in the woods of Washington, in a small cabin without electricity, a small group of Winterbloom employees hatched a plan in March of 2022. Away from cell service and the hustle and bustle of life, we could dive into the Big Question: “How do we continue the jobs that we love when our boss wants to retire and none of us want to buy the company from him on our own?” We sat in this little cabin with pens, highlighters, a giant sticky notepad, personality tests, and a toy tiger to signify who shared thoughts while the rest of us listened. Miraculously, a new mission statement was created, and two pathways were laid out to do more digging, research, and planning. Option 1: Investigate turning Winterbloom into a cooperative entity. Option 2: Transfer ownership to just a few of us to continue operating as a corporation/LLC. Regular meetings were set, commitments were made through hugs and handshakes, and our journey began.

Over the last year and a half, we have seen employees come and go. A few incredibly significant people, including Eric Bock, have gone to pursue other ventures, causing this new mission to stop and start a few times. It has been challenging work to keep this dream going while all of us continue to work on the existing Winterbloom, have family life, experience hard stuff, watch and feel the economy struggle, take vacations, etc. Even so, our small group continued to pursue things like meetings with banks, understanding the worth of Winterbloom, hiring an attorney, meetings with local co-operative businesses, and research, research, research. Oh, and try to communicate with the rest of the Winterbloom employees what we were trying to do. Ha!

This was all very new to each one of us. The learning curve has been huge. We are thankful for one another, knowing we are not doing this alone.

And now it is exciting to announce after much work, we are finally at the end stages of changing Winterbloom, Inc. to “ Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative ” (keeping the name “Winterbloom” to simplify some of the necessary changes). So, what does this mean?

The proposed transfer of ownership from Phil and Barb Thornburg into the hands of the worker-owners of Winterbloom is projected to occur towards the end of the year. Phil Thornburg will no longer be the owner/president of this company. His copious years (we celebrate 40 in October!) of his leadership, development, blood, sweat, tears, and passion for Winterbloom will be handed over to all of us who love him dearly and believe in the future of it.
In the eyes of Federal and State law, this company will now be changed to a “co-operative entity”. Here is the definition of what a cooperative entity is:

“A cooperative is a legal entity owned and democratically controlled by its members. Members often have a close association with the enterprise as producers or consumers of its products or services, or as its employees. The legal entities have a range of social characteristics.”

All employees of this proposed Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative will have equal opportunity to become partial owner of the company during their employment.

Why become a cooperative business?

Honestly, from the beginning, Winterbloom has held democracy as a core value. Phil has worked hard to create a work environment where employees feel listened to, valued, and cared for. Becoming a worker-owner cooperative actualizes this in structure of governance, profit-sharing and member voting rights. Rather than leaving it to the single owner to ensure the health and morale of the company, cooperatives share this responsibility with many employees who believe in an empowering workplace. And with this approach, we believe our product can only improve. Happy employees = happy customers.
Those of us discussing what to do about Winterbloom could not imagine taking sole ownership of the company. With much discussion and research, turning Winterbloom, Inc. into a cooperative business was our favorite solution for continuing the legacy of Winterbloom, keeping everyone employed and allowing each of us to feel the great support and comfort of ownership as a team. With friends, the risk is less scary.

Our plan is to transition ownership by the end of this year. Existing clients and contracts have nothing to worry about. Clients will be notified of any changes. If all goes according to plan, other than a slight change to our name, we will continue to be and create what we have been for almost 40 years.

September Tips and Tricks

Thu, 17 Aug 2023 18:14:00 GMT

September and October are my two favorite months of each year. These two months tend to remain on the dry side with sunny skies yet have cooler weather than either July or August. September is also Summer’s last month, and I think it is the best month of Summer. Take a moment as you walk, jog, or drive to enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us soon, usually by the end of October. The transition here in Western Oregon from Summer into Fall is so different than the transition between Spring into Summer. Spring’s entrance is often a furious fight between the chilly, wet days of Winter and the warmer, sunnier days of summer. That competition often includes storms, frosts, winds, sudden heat, etc. Fall’s entrance, on the other hand, comes upon us with a slow, cooling, gentle slide into the rainy season and then on into the even cooler rains of Winter.

September Gardening Tasks:

Slack off on watering in the beds, but check to see and water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens your plants off for Winter.
Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up!
September/October are the best months to plant new or renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you.
Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip. That way, the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in.
You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown; this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives.
September through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The peak month for planting and transplanting is November.
Pick and store winter squash when it is ready, usually in late September.
Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes.
Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi, and more.
September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a unique Fall/Winter mix for November).
Now is an excellent time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
This fall, prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees. Read this blog post for a more detailed look at what makes good composting.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot, and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
If the nights get too cool outside, bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them. Keep them out, though, through October.

Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn:

Generally, the best time for overseeding (filling in bare spots) or grass seeding is September/October/November or March/April/ May.
Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a stiff rake.
Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds straw bales have!
Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Give it lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few on cloudy days.
Wait about two weeks to see what happens. You are doing well if tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the Winter. In the summer, put it in the refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents; they love the stuff!)
Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home with a lawn.

Gardening Tips and Tricks for August

Thu, 20 Jul 2023 19:44:00 GMT

Summer is here, and we can all expect sunny warm days. I naturally call this time of the year the Dry Season because that is what it usually is! That also means that if I plant ANYTHING, I had better hand water it because irrigation systems are intended to MAINTAIN plants, not get them through the hot, dry summer! Next summer, the system will take care of it, but not this summer!

Weeds: I should encounter fewer weeds this month as the dryer weather prevents most seeds from sprouting. Therefore, unless my weeds are setting seed, I pull them up and lay the helpless little things out in the hot, dry sun, and they instantly turn into compost!
Mow Regularly: I continue mowing at my preferred higher setting for the summer months rather than a low setting - this keeps the lawn healthier. It helps to shade the grass's roots and keep them cooler. This is especially important if I am trying to keep my irrigation system turned down to conserve money and water.
Water: Make sure to water those plants which need a drink! The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate quickly or blow away in the breeze.
Generally, I set my irrigation to put out one inch a week for the lawn. (Use up to 2" if it has been hot and dry). The planting beds get about half that amount of water per week! I recommend a drip system as it uses less water, and if you use the inline system, you don't even see the water as it is under the mulch; there are NO little black spaghetti drippers to trip over!
I monitor my veggie garden closely so crops do not dry out and harvest regularly!
Bouquets in the house! This is a great month to walk through the garden in the cool morning air to pick whatever looks good to bring into the home, either foliage or flowers.
Fertilize: I will fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli this month. I harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Pest Control: I control caterpillars on leafy vegetables, Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus thuringiensis (BT). It is a bacterial disease of the Caterpillars and won't harm other creatures, including me!
Mulch: I use mulch to protect the soil and the plant's roots from hot weather damage.
Arborvitae care: It is essential to watch for browning patches in the Arborvitae during the hot, dry summer months. This means that spider mite control is needed. They are a problem, particularly with Arborvitae hedges - Every month, hose off the foliage once a day for three consecutive days. I usually pick the weekend to do this, so I spray once on Friday, Saturday, and Sunday. Arborvitae hedges are very susceptible to spider mite damage, and as a result, in a hot, dry summer, they can brown out or die! I have seen a lot of dead Arborvitae around. I avoid using Kelthane and other poisons for Spider mites. It is very poisonous for humans and animals. If I can make an effort, spraying the foliage with water is not that big of a deal!
Fleas: August is an important month to control outdoor fleas with spray (if one has outdoor pets.

Hummingbird Alley

Wed, 19 Jul 2023 20:24:00 GMT

A few years ago, I embarked on the challenging task of revitalizing the neglected area between our property and the neighbor's. The location had been overrun with invasive Ivy, Laurel, and Blackberry plants. To make matters worse, the previous property owner left behind a forgotten, rotting woodpile and shed that had to be dealt with; both were riddled with invasives.

Determined to reclaim this space, I removed the unwanted plant material. This process was a two-season endeavor, with the first season dedicated to killing the Ivy and a complete removal the following Spring. I knew I had just uncovered an extensive seed bank of weeds patiently awaiting their chance to sprout, so I promptly planted and covered the cleared area with a protective layer of bark mulch to prevent their resurgence.

The neighbor's side also required attention, as it had fallen into disarray. I took the initiative to clear out an old shed and the accompanying woodpile. The decaying wood had become a breeding ground for Blackberry and Ivy vines, and even some unwelcome Raccoon residents had found refuge within the shed.

To hide our trashcans, I created a screen just off the sidewalk, and now the area looks so much better from the street. This area is dark, so I added some lighting to make navigating the area easier.

Envisioning the transformation of this once-neglected space, I set out to create an informal mixed-border planting that would look good from both sides and provide some much-needed screening. With no irrigation available on this side of the property and numerous rabbits in our neighborhood, I carefully selected plants that possessed rabbit-resistant qualities and could thrive in drought conditions once established. I also eagerly added various “Species Tulip” bulbs, ensuring that each Spring would bring some vibrant color to the landscape.

Now, after an entire season of growth, I am overjoyed by the transformation that has taken place. The area has remained largely untouched by rabbit damage, and the best part is that my new neighbor has enthusiastically agreed to allow me to extend my plantings onto their side, creating a cohesive and harmonious environment for both properties.

Reflecting on this project, I am reminded of the ability to breathe new life into forgotten spaces. What was once an overgrown, neglected area has become a flourishing space, teeming with vibrant foliage, enchanting blooms, and the promise of shared beauty. Hummingbirds and bees often visit the site, which always brings me joy.

More Photos of the area.

Thanks!

Gardening Tips and Tricks for July

Fri, 30 Jun 2023 18:00:00 GMT

July

After our very wet and cold winter and wet early spring, the sun came out, and we had nice gardening weather! July is, on average, the hottest, driest month of the year for us, but one never knows if the average will be what shows up!

July is usually when we must irrigate liberally to keep the grass from going dormant. (All of our native grasses have a built-in ability to go to sleep, and it is evident when they turn a tan color in June/July until the fall rains begin again in November.) This does NOT mean that your lawn is dead!
If they need it, prune any of your shrubs immediately after they bloom. However, remember that this is important only if it is required! Don’t prune them just to prune them!
Keep up weeding, our wet spring grew masses of big weeds! Now, if the weather gets dry and hot, all one must do is to cut the roots off or lift the baby weeds and let them dry to death on the ground. They will disappear in the hot sun.
This is the month to fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
The lawn height should be set at the highest setting on the mower that you can tolerate. (A lot of people want to see lawns set at Golf Green elevation, about ¼” tall.) However, this does not work well on home lawns, as no homeowners I know can maintain their lawns to the degree that Golf Course does! The taller grass shades the roots and keeps the lawns healthy!
Lawns, in an average July, need one inch of water per week. If we have a dry, hot wind, then 1.5 to 2 inches does the trick.
Check for Root Weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas. They create nasty notches on the leaves. Use nematodes to kill the Weevil larvae in the ground or use sticky traps on the trunk to kill the adult Weevils.
Mulch, if you have not done so already, to conserve soil moisture using bark or other organic products like compost or clippings. Never use shredded rubber!
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty-looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites), and wash them with water from a hose. Pick a day when you can drench the branches, once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this practice once a month during the dry season. In this way, you are acting like heavy summer rain! This action disrupts their life cycle.
You may dig spring bulbs when the tops have died down. Divide them if overcrowded and store them in the garage in paper bags (NOT plastic). If you have decided where to plant them, go ahead and do it now or wait till Fall.
Stake tall growing perennials as needed. Lilies, Dahlias, and many tall daisies need this kind of care.
End of month: prune boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly, and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attacks.
Mound soil up around the base of potatoes. You can gather and eat a few “new” potatoes from each hill. Do not eat the green ones! They are not suitable for you. Cover up any potatoes which are showing!
Consider planting Mid-summer selections of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, and kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family and carrot family (including Dill, Zinnias, Marigolds, and Jerusalem Artichokes)
Stake your tomatoes, and watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves).
This is an excellent month to check those areas of your real estate which get little to NO water this time of the year and possibly do not have any plants now or where you have tried and plants will not grow! Consider a plant design for those areas and then plant drought-tolerant (Xerophytic) plants this Fall when the rains begin! If you have questions about this, call one of our designers to help you!

The Chronicles of a Plant addict: My Wildly Unruly Garden Adventure!

Fri, 30 Jun 2023 18:00:00 GMT

Hey there, fellow green thumbs, plant addicts, and horticultural enthusiasts! My name is Dale and I’m a plant addict. Today, I will take you on a tour of my gloriously chaotic, plant-packed wonderland that I affectionately refer to as my "Collectors Garden." As a self-proclaimed plant addict, my garden is a testament to my insatiable love for all things leafy, flowery, and occasionally prickly. So, grab your gardening gloves and dive into this wild adventure!

Picture this: a seemingly innocent, dull garden that starts with a lawn and some Rhodies. Fast forward a few years, and my garden has transformed into a botanical menagerie that would make even the most seasoned landscaper scratch their head in bewilderment. From cacti and succulents to carnivorous plants, I've created a mishmash of botanical bliss that defies many gardening rules, and I love it!

Walking through my garden is like navigating an obstacle course. Every step brings a delightful surprise, whether accidentally brushing against a prickly cactus or stumbling upon a patch of vibrant orchids that seem to whisper, "Where on earth did you find me?"

My friends often joke that my garden is the horticultural equivalent of a candy store—except instead of sweets, the aisles are filled with vibrant plants of all shapes, sizes, and species. When I think I've found the perfect spot for a new addition, I stumble across an even more enticing plant and find myself playing a never-ending game of garden Tetris. You'd be amazed at the places I've squeezed in a plant or two. My garden has become a living testament to the saying, "Where there's a will, there's a way!"

I should have a sign that humorously reads, "Beware of Plants!" Yes, you heard that right. With so many plants crammed into every nook and cranny, it's not uncommon for a wayward Opuntia to reach out into a path and give a visitor a jab to the shins. It keeps things exciting!

One of the most entertaining aspects of my garden is witnessing the reactions of first-time visitors. The combination of awe, confusion, and slight concern on their faces as they navigate through a packed garden. A full garden isn't for everyone, but it is for me! Who needs roller coasters when you can have a heart-pounding adventure navigating a garden packed full of plants?

But amidst the chaos, my garden is a sanctuary where plant enthusiasts can gather, share stories, and exchange cuttings like precious treasures. It has become a place for seasoned gardeners seeking inspiration and novices looking to dip their toes into horticulture. It is a place to visit and relax in this hectic world. Ultimately, my collector's garden is a testament to the fact that there is no such thing as "too many plants." It may be unconventional, unruly, and utterly bonkers, but it reflects my passion for the botanical world. So, fellow plant addicts, embrace your green-thumb quirks and let your garden grow wild and free. After all, life is too short for a dull, cookie-cutter garden if it doesn’t bring you joy. Make your garden exactly how you want it. Something that makes YOU happy! Happy planting!

Disclaimer: No plants were harmed during the creation of this garden. Visitors proceed at their own risk of being smitten by the plant bug and becoming fellow collectors!

This post is satirical in nature, after all, gardens are personal. You should have the garden that makes YOU happy.

Thanks!

Day of Service

Fri, 14 Apr 2023 20:20:00 GMT

Every year Winterbloom takes a day to volunteer their time and resources to help someone out. This year we took on two projects, here's a few images from the two sites.

Garden Tips and Tricks for April

Fri, 14 Apr 2023 19:27:00 GMT

We have had plenty of rain and snow this season. In fact, it has been so cold that my first Crocuses did not show their heads until March 7! Usually, they bloom in early February. I am now adequately armed with my Hori-Hori, hand clippers, weed bucket and kneeling pad, ready to do war on all weeds (as well as trim any unnoticed brown perennial tops). I have used natural mulch for so long that there are very few weeds anymore. The soil is moist, so they also come out with ease! This is opposed to those who wait till it is warm to weed. By then the weeds are going to seed and the ground has become hard. Don’t wait!

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of April:

Bait for slugs (and snails): If you do not like to purchase bait, remember, there are other options. Beer is a great option. Cheap beer that you would not drink is perfect; slugs seem to be indiscriminate! It can act as bait if placed in a shallow bowl. Remember to replace the beer after it rains which dilutes it or when it has filled up with dead slug bodies. Ugh! You can also place planks or other boards near where the slugs thrive. They’ll use it as a home, just flip it over now and then and pick them off and toss them to your chickens.
Deer and Bunnies: If you live near where deer and bunnies are active, remember to take measures. One trick I have used is Irish Spring™ soap hung around the bushes. The deer do not like the smell. There are also products which can be sprayed on the plants that deter both deer and bunnies. Fencing is also a choice, albeit more permanent and expensive.
Weed regularly: It has been cool and moist enough that weeds are still small. Most of them are not mature enough to set seed, so pull them out now. Preventing weeds from seeding is the best way to cut down on the number of weeds in your garden for the future.
Mow weekly: Set your lawnmower higher than you did in March. If you mow this month for the very first time, you should set it at the very lowest setting to wake up the grass. This might take two or three cuts to not clog up your mower and get the lawn cut correctly. The first mow is the year’s most difficult cut. That is, if you mow weekly the rest of the year.
Leave the foliage on spring flowering bulbs: Only cut off the seedpods after the blooms are finished because the foliage needs to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms. I recommend waiting to cut the foliage until the leaves are an ugly yellow brown.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees only if they need it: If they do need it, wait until immediately after the blossoms have faded if you want to cut a branch or two.
Plant summer blooming bulbs: Gladiolas and dahlias planted this time of year will give an extended summer bloom.
It is time to prepare the veggie garden for spring planting if you have not already done so.
Purchase and plant these garden starts: Rhubarb, Potatoes and Asparagus, if you have not done so already. Ours were planted last month. All three of these are perennial plants in our climate.
These vegetables are traditionally planted in April: Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Chives, Endive, Kohlrabi, Leeks, and Lettuce, Onion sets, Parsnips, Radishes, and Turnips. Of course, only plant these seeds if your garden is prepared and ready.
Check berries for spittlebugs and aphids: If present, wash them off with water or soap and water. If you have not pruned them for this year’s growth, hurry and do it now.
If you have problems with pear and apple scab, you may spray lime/sulfur. Also, there is very little time left to thin branches in your fruit trees, but be careful if you do, as you may knock off new buds in the process, which contain your future fruit!
The natural way to help control rose diseases is to remove all leaves, especially the infected leaves which have black spot and mildew! Cut them off and throw them in the garbage. Remember to prune roses for air circulation which also helps to prevent black spots and mildew.
If there are ANY brown dead looking Perennial tops left, NOW is the time to cut them down to allow the new spring growth! Do this before the new leaves begin popping out of the ground, or you will have to spend more time selectively pruning each individual dead stalk to prevent damaging the new spring growth!
If you did not shear your sword ferns in March, you have very little time left to cut them down to 2” before they unfurl their new fronds! This is not needed for the Ferns to grow and multiply, no one does this in the woods, however it removes all the old brown foliage and allows only the bright new green leaves to emerge!

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for March 2023

Wed, 01 Mar 2023 23:27:00 GMT

I am quite tired of snow as we have had snow upon snow this year. I am prepared for March to lessen its grip on the cold days and nights. I ran the greenhouse heater much more than usual. The beginning of Spring is but a few days away now, so I am taking heart!

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of March:

This is the best time to purchase perennial plants at the nursery. Many of them are now small, 4" containers, and they are ready to grow if you put them in the ground. 4" is less expensive than the #1 containers. You will see, as the weather warms, that these same 4" plants, if left in the nursery, will grow out of their pots and the nurseries will then pot them up into #1’s or number #2’s, and then of course the price will need to increase to reflect that work. This goes for shrubs and trees as well. Now is the time to get the best value for your purchase. If you wait till it is warm the prices will increase and you will miss the early bird choices and possibilities. So, go to your favorite nursery NOW!
It is important now, if you have not already done so, to quickly prune off any of last year’s ugly brown foliage left on your perennial plants. It is important to prune them now before the new sprouts begin to pop out of the ground.
Continue weeding to prevent any weeds from going to seed. Always pull out any weeds which are getting close to going to seed first. Seriously, if you weed now, before they go to seed and make babies, your summer weeding will be so much easier. (And, if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time. Just please be careful when using this sort of thing!!)
Continue baiting for slugs.
This is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it soon before the plants begin to sprout. If a plant is starting to sprout, it might be best to leave it alone and wait for next fall to move it.
Just wait to prune your spring-flowering shrubs until after the blossoms fade, and then only prune them if they really need it.
Trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished, that is usually later in March. This keeps them nice, tight and full.
Now is the time to cut off all your Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to open all their new fronds. This is mainly where you look at them from a path or a window. Obviously if you own a woodsy section, you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods this way. No one does it out in the forest!
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas with compost, or only, if necessary, use an acid-type fertilizer. (An indicator is that the leaves are yellow.)
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that didn’t get mulched last month.
Lawn-mowing begins sometime this month, so set your blade at the lowest setting that you are comfortable with: ¾"-1" for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2" to 2 ½" for fine fescue and ryegrasses. In other words, set it as low as you can without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn after you do this, and it might take three tries to get it to the level that you want. The grass will be wet and green, and you do not want to clog up or kill your lawn mower! Do not leave the clumps on the grass this month as you will create brown spots. Throw the clumps into the beds or the composter.
This is the time for the first application of lawn fertilizer after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical). (Suggested 16-5-5).
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost (suggested 10-10-10).
Prune out dead wood on Raspberries, Blueberries and Gooseberries to keep them from getting too big, then spread wood shavings, and, as needed, manure/compost.

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for February 2023

Mon, 13 Feb 2023 19:48:00 GMT

February is the last month in Western Oregon where we have potential ice and snow on the ground. Usually, this threat is over by the 15th of the month. February is a wonderful month for gardeners. We still have rain of course, but it’s sort of warmer rain. Here are some tasks for each of us to do this month:

It is time to begin baiting for slugs. Place the bait near things that they love to munch on. Beer in a pan works for some folks. You can also take objects like pieces of wood and set them in areas slugs enjoy and they will use this as a resting place. Flip the board over now and then and pick them off to be fed to your chickens or deposited somewhere further away.
Weed! Now is the time when they are small, weak and helpless. Take one section of your yard per weekend and work all the way around the yard in a month. It will save you hours of work later in the hot weather.
This is a great time to plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs from containers (or try bare rooted plants as they are less expensive). It’s a great time to transplant, too.
Plant perennials and perennial herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sag, and thyme (remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
Prune fruit trees as needed.
Prune and train grapes.
Prune your roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available, however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is a premier place to
Prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, and/or flowering cherries so you can bring them inside to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis and hydrangea. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs, such as azaleas and Rhodies; you will cut off the bloom buds.
Prune back Fuchsias and other perennials that have not been pruned back to about four inches. This year has been cold enough so you may wonder whether the Fuchsias have really died to the ground. So, unless you just can’t handle the bare sticks, wait till you see how far up the little green buds are coming out and trim them down to that mark. This Spring it will probably be from the ground and not from the stems at all.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick every two–three years. Composted mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do this in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season, and in the rainy season it prevents erosion.

For adventuresome gardeners:

Make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers.
Plant seed flats for crops in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors, using your cold frame or hot bed.
Prepare soil for future planting of the grow pots and flats of seedlings that you are starting.
Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae.
Time for the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for December 2022

Wed, 30 Nov 2022 22:56:00 GMT

What a year for gardening! We’ve had plenty of heat, but not too much. There’s been no excess thunderstorms with hail during the summer at all. Following lots of sunshine until late October, the chilly weather has started sending all the plants into hibernation. I have created a task list for you to get you moving and working outdoors in December, enjoy!

Transplant just about anything/anytime unless the ground is frozen.
Plant any hardy trees, shrubs and perennials, unless the ground is frozen or covered with snow.
Protect any new, bigger plants which seem to have a sail. High winds can be damaging, they can be secured using stakes, guy wires, windbreaks or proper site selection.
Poinsettia care: protect them from the cold; place them where they will receive some sunlight. However, don’t let the leaves touch cold windows. Fertilize every three weeks and water just enough to keep them moist. In western Oregon they must be kept indoors!
Cut and dip Holly for holiday use. Holly Dip is available at your local nursery. If you dip the cut tips of the branches, the berries and leaves will not wither or fall off during the holiday season.

Seasonal yard care:

Continually rake or blow the leaves off the lawn and hard surfaces. The shade and the tannic acid will leave dead grass areas in the lawn and stain your concrete brown. I personally blow and rake the leaves into my planting beds for an inexpensive mulch, which feeds the soil.
When you decide to dedicate an hour or two for projects in the garden, start by cutting down any ugly perennial flower stalks; hoe or pull the winter weeds, particularly in the parts of the yard which are viewed by the public. If you do not like fall leaves as mulch and/or your flowerbeds are bare, spread some bark or garden mulch instead.
After the holidays, you may begin working seriously on cutting back all the dormant perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard. Remember to pace yourself! Enjoy the freshly washed air, the pungent crisp smells, the bird activities and calls!
Monitor your houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much lower in the winter than the rest of the year. DO NOT overwater or your babies may rot and die!
Consider garden-related holiday gifts for the gardeners you know.
It is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses (if you can still find them), but don’t delay.
Watch the yard for overly wet or non-draining areas and strategize what you want to do in those areas. You are always welcome to call us , and we would be happy to visit with you to talk about your options!

Go Ahead and Leave the Leaves!

Wed, 30 Nov 2022 22:43:00 GMT

It is that time of year when the leaves have mostly fallen from all but the most stubborn of trees. Last week I watched, mesmerized, as the neighbor's big Oak tree lost what seemed like millions of leaves that floated slowly to the ground. So this is a timely reminder to leave the leaves in your garden beds to compost over the Winter months.

Leaving the leaves in your garden beds helps build soil and feed and insulate your plants. They become a natural mulch that helps suppress weeds and provides habitat to many overwintering insects that will also be food for some of my favorite avian garden visitors.

You'll want to make sure and remove leaves from your hard surfaces and ground covers/lawn. You can spread a nice layer of leaves in your garden beds, ensuring they do not crowd plants. Make sure to remove the fallen leaves from taller plants as well. In a few months, go ahead and take a peak under the leaves; you might catch some earthworms busy at work helping to break them down or some healthy white mycelium.

Looking for more ways to create a more sustainable garden?

Many insects also live in the hollow stems of plants. In my garden, I like to leave the stems of perennials. If I do feel the need to clean up an area, I will tidy plants and leave the trimmings to decay in the beds. Birds have their chance to enjoy the seed heads, and I have hours of entertainment watching them forage.

Little Prince of Oregon: A Blogger's Visit

Tue, 08 Nov 2022 00:24:00 GMT

Due to the pandemic, it has been a few years since Little Prince was able to invite the garden bloggers out to visit the nursery. So, I obviously got excited when I learned of the invite. You may not have been to Little Prince in person, but if you shop for plants as regularly as I do, you have most likely seen Little Prince of Oregon nursery tags on a few of your treasures. Little Prince isn't open to the general public, so here is a small peak at what goes on behind the scenes.

Little Prince has been ramping up their houseplant productions, and they aren't joking around! Joan Dudney (marketing manager, photo left) and Mark Leichty (director of business development, photo right) are two of the many stars bringing some harder-to-find plants to the market. When we entered the area it was clear they had been busy.

Their nursery is clean and well-kept, with so many very well-grown plants.

Did you know Little Prince now has mail orders available? This can get dangerous for someone like me! Check it out: littleprinceplants.com/

Continuing with the houseplant area, I had to fight the urge to buy more treasures. My home needs to be set up for growing houseplants better, but I still want them all. Above, Joan is eager to show off the new introductions in the house plant area.

Mark and Joan gave us a great tour. They have added numerous new greenhouses to keep up with production demands. They also added automated motors to roll up the sides of the greenhouses to moderate the temps easier.

Now on to the other houses, and this is where I have a hard time controlling myself. So many well grown plants! I came across Agave 'Mr. Ripple' (below) and had to take some home with me...

...as well as Agave parryi var truncata (below).

And look at all these treasures!

Mark has also been busy installing a new garden on the grounds that showcases some great plants. Lot's of hard work--great job Mark!!!

You bet one of these pumpkins came home with me!

Thanks for coming along!

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for November 2022

Tue, 08 Nov 2022 00:23:00 GMT

There is no doubt about it! The rainy season began in the latter half of October. November is historically the wettest month of the entire year, so it is important to prepare for it. Here are some tips and tricks to keep you on top of things in your landscape.

Look around for bare soil-exposed spots in your planting beds and cover them with an organic mulch, such as medium dark hemlock. And make sure that you weed the space first! Adding mulch will insulate your plants from the potential cold to come, prevent erosion and, as the mulch breaks down, this material feeds the soil, fauna and flora which in turn give the plant’s roots their valuable nutrients. Some plants, such as Fuchsias, Dahlias and Cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base just to stave off the cold. It is good to remember that this same mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out as quickly and from overheating!
Provide winter protection to built-in irrigation systems by:

1) Turning off the automatic controller, then:

2) Turning off the water to the system at the street or at the backflow prevention device

3) If your system has a drain, remember to drain it!

Prune your roses back about 1/3 in height to prevent winter wind damage. Only do this, however, if they are tall and might blow over without this step. They are not yet dormant in our climate.
If moss is appearing in your lawn it may be telling you that you have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility, soil compaction or all the above. Use a lawn moss killer as a first step. However, you may decide to shrink the size of your lawn (next to the trees or structures, for instance) to remove areas with too much shade. Fertilizing and liming the lawn also encourages the grass and discourages the moss. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what shrinking the size of the lawn might look like during the window of time when you do not have to mow it!
Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean, sharpen blades, oil tools and tend equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib. In really cold weather, if they have not been turned off and drained properly, they could burst!
Now is the best time to lime your lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet.
Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer if you did not do it last month.
Great time to purchase Paperwhite Narcissus for the holidays for indoor bloom forcing. They will bloom in approximately five weeks from the time you start them in an indoor container.
It's a great time to plant new landscape trees and shrubs, or to transplant them.
It's also a good time to prune the plants which just bloomed in late summer and October.
There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but don’t delay.
Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during the heavy rains; drywells/French drains and ditches are possible solutions.
You may lightly fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas with yellow leaves now, which will provide better green-up in the spring. Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. Make sure the soil is moist when you fertilize and do not overdo it! If they are green, they prefer just leaves and mulch as their fertilizer.
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.
Always remove leaves off the lawn as soon as you can. Leaves left on lawns can quickly damage the grass! If the leaves are quickly moved into the beds, they will act like a quality free mulch and they will NOT hurt the plants.

Advanced gardening tips:

Consider planting Crocus sativus (Saffron Crocus) to harvest NEXT fall.
Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area like a garage.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around base of fruit trees. Use other leaves or bark instead.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall).
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden area. A three to four-inch layer of raked leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and/or compost.
If you have a hedge of Arborvitae, consider tying up the limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives or even flowers for the dark rainy season ahead.

Crocus on the Mind

Tue, 08 Nov 2022 00:22:00 GMT

The time has finally arrived for us pluviophiles to have our PNW season of dreary, cloudy, rainy days! “Bring on the rain,” I say!
Summer was a wonderful whirlwind of children, camping, sunny days, road trips, playing at the river, tending the vegetable garden, harvesting and preserving. Whew! I need Autumn to bring me the joy and comfort of change and rest. It also brings back the school routine (for us school-aged parents!), cooler weather, clean air (eventually), snuggly mornings, soccer and football games, soup, baking, planting bulbs and new plants, working out some problem areas in my yard (this is the time to move things around!) and, finally, Crocus!

Crocus sativus is commonly known as Autumn Crocus, Fall Crocus and Saffron Crocus. They begin poking their sweet, purpley heads up in early October and are in full bloom after a couple weeks. Crocus is a corm, so, like a bulb, it is short-lived in its full glory but has a lovely burst of color as we get deeper into the season. In the US, Crocus sativus is hardy in zones 6-9 in the Western region and 6-8 of the Southern region. Plant them in sunny spots with well-drained soil during the fall or divide your existing patch after the foliage has mostly wilted.

And don’t forget the SAFFRON harvest! Yes, these are the ONLY crocus that saffron comes from, which is one of the most expensive culinary spices to purchase and can be difficult to find! Historical evidence has found that humans have cultivated, used and traded this spice for over 3500 years! There's some fascinating information here about saffron if you want to dive deeper. The red stigmas, or the female portion of the flower, is what becomes the saffron that is harvested (photo below). I like to have a paper towel ready in my hand when I am picking these dainty stigmas so that I can simply lay them out to fully dry in a darker area of my kitchen. When they are dried, crinkly and a brick-red color, you can store these in a jar where you keep your other spices for up to a year or so.

Now, with all this new knowledge of Crocus sativus, I challenge you to find some and begin your own farm to table spice. Discover the art of creating warm Indian curries, Spanish paella, Persian rice and so much more with this exotic spice. Happy Autumn to everyone!

Urban Edens

Fri, 07 Oct 2022 22:11:00 GMT

We all need natural, restful spaces to ground us. Urban environments create an interesting challenge to cutting through all the noise, sights and smells that constantly fight for our attention. With that in mind, Dale and I decided to take a trip over to Portland's Lan Su Chinese Garden to see how the space has been used to bring beauty and nature into the concrete jungle.

When we walked up to the entrance it didn't necessarily feel like much on the outside. The fencing and walls didn't feel like there was a garden just on the other side. However, the structures inside the metal fence were interesting and definitely intrigued us to journey further in.

When we walked inside, however, everything changed.

Above are the views we had as we entered the garden. I was immediately drawn to the rock structure, the interesting and unique formation made for a great juxtaposition to the typical architecture and straight lines of all the concrete we'd just left outside. From there, various options played on our exploratory interest through the use of openings and doorways that hid much from the eye, guiding our curiosity to venture through the various portals.

The concept of placing potted plants in or next to windows was really simple and very effective at highlighting the unique designs. It was as if each was its own art installment that left you curious to find more. The added feature of the window's internal patterns were visually interesting while providing a fun perspective on looking through them (as seen below).

The paths were of particular i nterest. Not only did their wandering bends keep drawing us further in, the materials used revealed the level of detail invested in this work of art.

When we design landscapes we often refer to creating "rooms" outside. These can be entertainment areas, veggie gardens, sitting nooks, fire pits, etc. The use of rooms in this garden was amazing. The various openings between rooms definitely created a solid sense of transition, yet the continuity was not absent from one room to the next. Each space had a unique design that felt familiar to the entirety of the garden while holding it's own individual accent.

When we reached areas that had a view of the surrounding buildings, we found they actually didn't detract a whole lot as the architectural interest of the garden's structures, combined with the trees and plants made the visual juxtaposition softer and more appealing. It truly felt like being in a hidden garden in the midst of downtown.

And water always changes a space, whether it's the visual aesthetic of reflections and light, fish surfacing to feed, or the sounds of it gurgling and falling over rocks. It definitely tied the garden together. We'll leave you with a few photos of the water feature and some other details. And if you're interested in experiencing a serene garden in the midst of an urban environment, definitely go take a tour!

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for October 2022

Fri, 07 Oct 2022 22:11:00 GMT

October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. We are now technically in autumn, but we still have several warm, clear, sunny days this month. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month and then by Halloween the rainy season has begun!

The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the weekly chore.
October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants of course prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends on through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon.
If you want more bulbs in your yard to have blooms in March, April or May, now is the time to make a trip to your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and get them planted. October/November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can plant fall bulbs now, also, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall!
The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs!
The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your yard. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! Sometimes only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn. However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds.
This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter.
Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring.

Pro tips:

Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer.
Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen.
Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great to set out over the winter for birds or for human snacking.
Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash and pumpkins, keeping all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees.
Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating.
Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. You must be quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads.
Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter. Once a month over the winter, water them lightly just to keep them alive. Do NOT let them freeze!
Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums and Pelargoniums. Put in moist, sandy soil and cover with a clear plastic bag - this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temps. Give them some light from a window and, if they are at room temperature, they will root faster.
Spray peach, cherry and prune trees with a simple fruit tree copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases.
Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children.
Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage.
Consider beginning the process now of manipulating light to begin the process of forcing your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Trap moles. It has been my experience that baits do not work. Here is a local option that many have found to be helpful. It is a percussive method that seems to work: https://www.molecat.com/

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2022

Fri, 02 Sep 2022 18:21:00 GMT

My two favorite months of the year are September and October. That is because these two months tend to remain on the dry side with sunny skies yet have cooler weather than either July or August. September is also Summer’s last month, and I think that it is the best month of summer. Take a moment as you walk, jog or drive to enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us soon, usually by the end of October. The transition here in Western Oregon from Summer into Fall is so different than the transition between Spring into Summer. Spring’s entrance is often a furious fight between the chilly wet days of winter and the warmer sunnier days of summer. This competition often includes storms, frosts, winds, sudden heat and so on. Fall’s entrance, on the other hand, comes upon us with a slow, cooling, gentle slide into the rainy season and on into winter.

September Gardening Tasks:

Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up!
September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you.
Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in.
You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives.
September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The peak month for planting and transplanting is November.
Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September.
Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes.
Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more.
September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November).
Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October.

How to over seed your lawn:

The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May.

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake.
Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have!
Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days.
Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)

Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for August 2022

Mon, 01 Aug 2022 17:37:00 GMT

August is generally the month of the year for warm, dry summer days in Western Oregon. That makes irrigation especially important this month! We recommend using an engineered, in-line nipple drip irrigation system to lower water usage and keep water at the root zone of the plants (as opposed to out in the air). This system has shown itself superior to the old spaghetti drip lines, micro sprays and so on. Initially, we used the spaghetti drip tube system, but they could be bumped, pulled out and chewed on too easily, causing havoc in our planting beds. The newer inline system delivers water underneath the bark mulch to the roots. There are openings equally spaced along the side of the tube to release the water through a diaphragm inside the tube which allows the water to exit from the tube but does not allow water, dirt, small insects, etc. to come back into the system (which they did using the old black spaghetti tubes). The only real problem that we have found with the inline system has been if the tubes are well covered by mulch, squirrels and other small mammals find them perfect for nibbling and creating leaks.

August Tips and Tricks:

Weeds: We should encounter far fewer weeds this month as the dryer weather disinclines them to sprout. Unless our weeds are literally setting seeds, we simply pull them up and lay the helpless little things out in the hot sun and they instantly turn into compost.
Mow regularly: We continue mowing at a preferred higher setting for the summer months, rather than a low setting. This keeps the lawn healthier as it helps to shade the roots of the grass to keep them cooler. This is especially important if your irrigation system is not turned on very much.
Water: Make sure to water those plants which need a drink. The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate quickly or blow away in the breeze. Generally, irrigate at one inch a week for lawn, but use up to two inches if it has been hot and dry. The plant beds will need about half that amount of water per week and we recommend a drip system. If you planted new plants this Spring, remember to augment their watering by hand—in addition to an irrigation system. Irrigation systems are intended for maintaining established plantings and that is most likely not enough water to get the new plants rooted. You do not want to turn up the irrigation system as you may then overwater all the rest of your plants! Therefore, augment the plants recently planted until the cool days of Fall.
Veggie garden: Monitor irrigation closely so that crops do not dry out. Harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Cut Flowers and arrangements: This is a great month to walk through the garden in the cool morning air to pick whatever looks good to bring into the house—either foliage or flowers.
Fertilize: Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash and broccoli.
Pest Control: Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables or Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a bacterial disease of the Caterpillars and won’t harm other creatures, including you.
Mulch: Use mulch to protect the soil and plant’s roots from hot weather damage.
Arborvitae care: Watch for the need of spider mite control on some ornamentals, particularly Arborvitae hedges. Once a month do a three day regimen of hosing off their foliage daily. We usually pick the weekend to do this; once on Friday, then Saturday, then Sunday. Arborvitae hedges are very susceptible to spider mite damage and, as a result, in a hot dry summer they can brown out or die.
Fleas: If one has outdoor pets, August is an important month to control outdoor fleas with spray.

Prairie Restoration

Wed, 27 Jul 2022 17:13:00 GMT

In June’s blog, we discussed alternatives to lawn; one of the suggestions we made was a natural meadow. The idea of a natural meadow with native plants sounds very romantic, but the execution of getting there can be a bit nebulous and overwhelming. When I found out about a guided tour of one of the largest native grassland restorations in Oregon, I jumped at the opportunity to go see for myself what a 16-year-established oak savannah and prairie looks like, and to hear about the journey it took to get there. So, on a sunny summer day, Forrest, Dale and I set out to Jefferson, Oregon to see what this huge project was all about and hopefully gain some insight into how it could be applied to residential sites.

I grew up in a home where if you were on time, you were five minutes late. This has left me with a strict obsession to be on time in everything I do; this comes as both a blessing and curse. As we pulled up to the farm site, it quickly became apparent we were one of the first to arrive and were roped into helping direct all the arriving vehicles to find parking. When there is a restoration event in rural Oregon, a wide array of people (and vehicles) show up. We had Priuses full of Portlanders in their Chacos with binoculars hanging around their necks, government employees from a variety of departments in their trucks and hefty work boots, and everything in between. It was fun to see the diverse community a project like this draws in.

The site: The company Heritage Seedlings has spent the last 16 years working on the Jefferson Farm Restoration just outside of Jefferson, Oregon. They hired botanist Lynda Boyer to be the overseer of the project. This is probably the largest private restoration project in the state; the project is working to enhance and restore 135 acres of habitat that was formerly grass farm and grazing pastures. Prior to 1850, much of the Willamette valley was open prairie and now there is only 1% left. I will link here a wonderful presentation that Lynda has posted on the heritage seedlings website that is full of good information in her own words .

The components of a native meadow:

There are two main things that make up a prairie: grass and forbes. Grasses used in restoration projects include Prairie Junegrass, Romer’s fescue, California Oatgrass and Pine Bluegrass. Forbes are essentially the perennials and annuals that come up every year. These include plants like Checker Mallow, Erigeron, Iris tenax, Camas, etc. HERE is an article Lynda wrote in 2018 about pollinators; the whole thing is worth a read, but if you’re in a hurry she starts a list of desirable native forbes and grasses on page 49.

Getting started:

Lynda gave some very practical advice for how to get started on a site.

You don’t have to start from scratch; let things come up and do an inventory of what is already thriving on your property—you might be surprised by what you find.
If there are native plants present, collect seeds and plant them.
Focus on getting rid of the invasive species that are present: rhizomatous grasses, blackberry, thistles, clover, etc. There are often certain herbicides that can be used to spot spray these plants.
Keep in mind that as you take things out you are opening space for other options—have a plan for those possibilities! Otherwise, you may have just given breathing room for another invasive specie to take over.
That being said, plant more plants! This can be done via seed, plants in plugs, pots or a combination. Lynda recommends planting grasses and forbes at the same time.
Do you hate those gopher holes that pop up in your yard? Well now you can look at them as freshly disturbed soil that is there for the planting! Whenever the soil is disturbed in your site area, throw some seed in .
Prior to 1850, a lot of the native prairie in the Willamette valley was maintained and cultivated by indigenous peoples through controlled burning. This helps control the invasives and encourages a lot of the forbes that propagate after fire. Controlled burning in this environment, for the average homeowner, is not a possibility. However, an annual mowing/string trimming will mimic the effects of the fire. It is best to mow as late in the fall as possible and leave the meadow at a 6” height. Depending on the site, you could even stretch it to mowing every other year in a patchwork pattern, helping the insect population who is at home there to thrive.

Potentilla with Spider

A word about pollinators:

Joining our tour was an entemologist who explained the very complicated system surrounding pollinating insects and plants. What bug pollinates which plant is completely variable based on location and year. Jefferson Farm provides an important space where he and his colleagues can observe and study the pollination habits of insects and our native plants over a long span of time.

This is a list entemologists have made of the pollinators at Jefferson farms and the plants they visit. You can see how complex it is.

More and more I have clients who want to incorporate a piece of restoration onto their property. Here are some things I think clients need to know:

You have to be comfortable with weeds; you will probably never 100% get rid of invasives, you simply have to control them as best as you can and pick your battles. For example, focus on killing the blackberries first over the oxeye daisies. Here is a poster of some of the worst invasives we have here in Oregon
You will have some failures; you just have to keep trying things to see what takes, you cannot give up easily.
It takes consistency to get it looking good.
Start with a small area and increase it as you go so it doesn’t feel overwhelming all at once.
There are some really smart people (like Lynda Boyer) doing this on a huge scale. If you’re passionate about this, see what they’re doing, if there are ways you can get involved and what information you can glean from what they have accomplished.
Spring season is the season that shines. In our climate here in the valley, wild meadows will look their best and be at their peak in the spring when the majority of the forbes are blooming—a lot of our native perennials go dormant in the summer heat.

This restoration work feels very different than what we typically do in residential design. It isn’t uniform, it can get messy and it honestly takes someone who is invested in upkeeping it over the years to make it successful. However, the end product is something beautiful and good for our little piece of the world.

Chickadee Gardens: A Drought Tolerant Paradise

Tue, 05 Jul 2022 18:33:00 GMT

This winter I had a design client email me a picture from a Better Homes and Gardens magazine with the message, “this is what I want.” I poured over the beautiful photos of a garden photographed in the fall that had bright yellow leaves and tawny grasses; the pictures possessed a golden quality to them which drew me in. I squinted at the fine print below the photos: "Chickadee Gardens, located near St. Helens, Oregon," it read. This was something I just had to see for myself. So, on an overcast June afternoon, Dale and I headed to Chickadee Gardens, crossing our fingers in the hope of warding off the rain. The gardens, located in St. Helens, Oregon, were quite a trek from our Tigard office, but it turned out to be well worth the trip.

Chickadee Gardens is a private garden belonging to Tamara and David. As well as being an avid gardener, Tamara, a well known local garden blogger nestled in the hills above highway 30, shares her two-acre garden with the world. Tamara came to gardening by way of fine art and a passion for backyard habitats. After moving back to her native Portland from the Bay Area in her early 30’s, she began experimenting with plants in her mom’s back yard. In 2015, Tamara and David purchased their new home with the surrounding two acres. The home and land have passed through several creative and thoughtful hands down to Tamara. The house was originally designed and constructed by an artist who used half of it as her studio, another owner painted the outside walls a vibrant fuchsia color and created a meditative labyrinth in the garden.

This homey fire pit is what marks the spot of the former labyrinth, in what Tamara fondly calls her labyrinth garden. The vast amounts of sand that had been brought in for the labyrinth helped to create ideal conditions for some of her Mediterranean plants that require fast draining soil.

While we walked around, Tamara told me that she often gets mixed reactions from people who come to see her garden. Her aesthetic is loose and almost wild, incorporating the use of multiple canopy layers and a generous helping of native plants—an echo of her time volunteering with the backyard habitat program. This is not the garden for neatly trimmed boxwood hedges, nor for the carefree English cottage garden with rambling roses. In Chickadee Gardens, Tamara has thoughtfully selected plants that will thrive in her varied micro climates, and that they will be self sufficient during our long dry summers and resilient to our wet winters. It’s a garden that feels like it belongs in Oregon—quirks and all. Due to her work at Joy Creek nursery over many years, she has an abundance of unique plants that we "oohed" and "ahhed" over as we meandered through her system of crushed gravel paths.

When I asked her about the upkeep needed for this size of garden, Tamara was very upfront that she spends hours every day tending to her yard. Since Joy Creek Nursery closed this past year, she has dedicated the bulk of her time to her garden and to garden coaching.

I was curious about her approach to planning out her garden since it covers such a large area. Tamara told me she started with a very simple design outlining the various areas, garden beds and general shape she wanted them to take. To quote, “I knew I wanted a swoosh here and a swoosh there.” She tackled each section one at a time and designed as she went.

Tamara was also very intentional about where she incorporated color in her garden, keeping more muted tones toward the house and bright wild colors on the periphery. In some areas, she has come into conflict between her designer- and gardener-self: she will create a striking composition of a grouping of plants and then have to impose rigorous self-control to keep her inner gardener from putting other plants in that space.

Here is a prime example of a mass planting that Tamara occasionally has the urge to tuck other plants into.

Exploring Chickadee Gardens is a beautiful reminder that a drought tolerant garden that is adapted to our climate can still be lush and full of beauty throughout the seasons. Tamara’s journey to her garden is a reflection of how so many people in the gardening community, from such a variety of backgrounds, come to find solace in plants and earth, and their gardens tell their stories.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for July 2022

Tue, 05 Jul 2022 18:33:00 GMT

Wow! We just finished our wettest and coolest spring in over 80 years...who knows what July will be like!

June tips ‛n’ tricks:

Plant the warm season annuals (whether you plant flowers or vegetables). These are petunias, impatiens, eggplants, tomatoes, tomatillos, golden berries, peppers, corn, basil, cucumbers and more.
Fertilizing your annuals every two weeks with a natural fertilizer will cause them to grow well and produce. This would be a fertilizer not derived from petroleum but from manure, kelp, shells, blood, bone, rock or feathers. Remember, too much nitrogen simply gives lots of leaves but not much fruit. For a veggie bed, a ‘balanced’ fertilizer is best. This will be one that has the three letters representing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N, P, K), like 5-4-3 or 4-3-2, where the first number is the highest, but not a lot higher than the other two.
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower at your favorite high setting for the rest of the summer until October. Keeping the grass longer during the hot months helps to shade the roots and keep the grass stay greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is basically over and there will soon be less weeds to pull because the warm rain is no longer with us. If you’re in a hurry, you can simply toss the weeds (ones not going to seed) out in the sunny part of the bed, and they will dry up right there by the end of the day. Don’t do this on a rainy cloudy day because they just might strike root and grow again! Also, put the ones with seeds in the debris bin.
Water everything as needed, one inch per week (at a minimum) for the lawn, and half an inch for the shrubs. This is a standard rule of thumb for an average warm, dry June week.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Use pet-safe bait.
Prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they finish blooming if they need it.
Check the rhodies and azaleas for weevils. Nematodes or insect tape can be used to combat them. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look discolored. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called green or brown lace wings. You can purchase the eggs of these predators locally.
Deadhead your rhodies. This will make them look neater and bloom more next year.
Check for aphids and cabbage worms on veggies or roses and, if needed, choose your method of action.
Continue to take care of coddling moths and scabs on apples and pears. Check with the Oregon State Extension Service to see how often they need to be treated.
Thin out the excess little fruits on pears and apples. If you do not thin them, you will have little fruits and they might become too heavy and break off whole branches.
Spray to prevent fruit flies on cherries. Check with the Oregon Extension Service: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/

Lawn: The Elephant in the Room

Fri, 10 Jun 2022 19:29:00 GMT

One of the questions most frequently asked of me when I meet with people is, “how can I get rid of my lawn?” There are many reasons people may want to ditch their lawn. There’s growing interest in our society over conserving water and putting in plants that create a good environment for beneficial insects and birds. Some people dread the spring when they must re-establish a relationship with their lawnmower. Others are ready to wave the white flag of surrender and give up on the patchy, over shaded lawn that they’ve been coaxing for years.

Whatever the reason, it is always good to look at your options.

The first thing I ask is how people want to use the space. Do you still need an area to kick a ball around or let a dog run free? Do you want a space full of plants and shrubs? Would you like more space for entertaining?

The second question is about site conditions. Is it shady? Full sun? Does it stay wet, or is it dry? Will you be irrigating or choosing drought-adapted plants? If you are going low to no water, you may still want a temporary watering solution for the first year.

Grass Adjacent Solutions:

Eco lawn:

Eco Lawns may be a consideration if you still have kiddos or pets that need some lawn space. Eco Lawns are generally started with seed mixes. Several local companies sell great mixes . Look for mixtures with dwarf perennial ryegrass, hard fescues, yarrow and clover. After establishment, you can let the grass go dormant in the summer months and still have a green space. These mixes still look best with a couple of mows a year and some water, but they take less maintenance than a conventional lawn. One thing to consider is that many of the mixes contain clover, English daisies and yarrow, which makes a bee haven. If getting stung is a concern, or you have small children running around in bare feet, consider a mix without those.

Artificial Turf:

There are a lot of considerations around artificial turf. While it is not my personal preference, I do admit that in some circumstances it is the best solution. Artificial turf has a high upfront cost, installation cost of a fake lawn can run you almost as much as a patio (if implemented correctly), you will have to invest some big bucks into saving on water and maintenance down the road. Speaking of maintenance, while you don’t have to mow it, artificial turf still takes some upkeep. If you have tree debris the surface will need to be cleaned off, and it looks best if raked occasionally.

Heat is another thing to think about, as artificial turf absorbs a lot of it. If you have a small, south-facing yard, it will not feel good to be out on that turf during the height of summer. Another factor to consider is what happens to all that material when it reaches the end of its life. Often, due to the nature of the materials it’s made from, it will go to a landfill.

The benefits are that you can put it where grass won’t grow, it makes a great play surface for kids, it usually lasts a long time, it’s green all year round and, much like laminate flooring, it’s come a long way aesthetically in the last ten years.

Ground covers:

Many people I meet with think of ground cover as the solution to all their problems because they think of it as being equal to lawn. I hate to burst your fantasy of a tough, drought-tolerant, low maintenance plant that will create a rich carpet in your yard: this doesn’t really exist. At least, it doesn’t come into existence easily. Unless you are vigilant the first few years a ground cover is becoming established, weeds will decide that your ground cover is the perfect place to hide and spread and grow through, which ends in you either ripping the whole thing out or painstakingly hand pulling weeds from your ground cover. If you’re willing to put in the time and effort for some ground cover, good options might be creeping thyme, Corsican mint, Sedum Angelina, Ajuga reptans, Heather, Creeping raspberry, etc.

Wildflower Meadow:

Creating a wildflower meadow is a great way to support local, beneficial insects. Our insect populations are declining; the more we can do to bring flowering annuals and perennials, the better. Consider using clumping grasses in your meadow and leaving the spent flowers through the winter and into spring to form seeds for birds. Many of our native insects will use the stems to winter over. Every grain the birds don't eat will ensure you will have more flowers the following year. Late spring cleanup isn't so bad either. You can cut the stems of spent plants and leave them as mulch.

There are some great seed mixes from Northwest Meadowscapes. I like to buy seeds of individual species and group them when I sow, which gives more of an impact. One thing to keep in mind is this tends to lend a wilder look to the yard, so consider whether this fits into the aesthetic of your home and your personal preferences, and potentially your HOA’s preferences.

Ornamental Grasses:

If you like the negative space and flow of lawn, consider ornamental grasses or grass-like plants. These often come in a clumping habit that won’t spread like lawn, and many varieties are drought tolerant once established and only need to be cut down once a year.

Outside the Lawn Solutions:

Shrub and Perennial Plantings:

You could have a front yard composed of all shrubs and perennials with no lawn. This is where you might want to consult with a Winterbloom designer to come up with a good planting plan that creates natural looking sweeps of plants that hold interest all year round. And maybe you need a playful path running through it all, but we can get to that in the next point. The maintenance level of this option would vary depending on the plants that were put in, and it is important to remember if one doesn’t mow, one weeds. And it is especially important to stay on top of the weeds the first couple of years while the plants are growing in and becoming established, and to dedicate yourself to putting down a nice layer of bark mulch every two to three years.

Hardscape:

Much like artificial turf, this option has a higher upfront cost but potential for a lot of reward. You could make an informal crushed gravel patio or bring in some pavers or stamped concrete. This could be a welcoming courtyard near the front door, a hidden coffee drinking nook, an area for entertaining, the place to roast marshmallows around a fire bowl with the grandkids or a serene hideaway with a glass of wine. When implemented in conjunction with a thoughtful planting plan that softens the hard edges, more hardscapes can be a welcome addition.

Dry Garden:

You could consider a dry or rock garden. A dry garden uses well suited plants adapted to our dry summers, so after they've established they should need very little to no additional water. Gravel mulch is often used but is not necessary. You could use Thyme, Yuccas, Arctostaphylos and bunching grasses. There are a lot of plants that can be used to create a lovely, low input garden. Add some boulders and a seating area for more accents and features.

Dry Creek Bed:

A dry creek bed probably will not take up your entire yard, but it can take up a substantial amount of real estate. This uses rocks and gravel to create an interesting feature running through your yard. This option is particularly useful if you have drainage issues in your yard that also need to be addressed, and a French drain and dry well can be hidden within the bed. My advice is to hire someone who is good at rock work; a dry creek bed is a bit like dying your hair, you want it to look natural and like it’s always been there, and it can easily cross the line into looking fake.

I hope if you are thinking of getting rid of lawn this will help inform and inspire you. Remember, many of these solutions can even be mixed and matched and used together. Keep in mind as well that sometimes it is better to start small and take out just a portion of your lawn to begin. If you are looking at a big transformation, feel free to give us a call or send us an email and we would be happy to meet with you and help envision what your yard could look like without/with less lawn.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for June 2022

Fri, 10 Jun 2022 18:34:00 GMT

Summer technically starts the 21 ^st of June this year. This is the month that we western Oregonians complete the spring planting of our veggie and fruit beds. On the 21st, the sun will be as close to vertical in the sky as it can get, in our temperate climate. That means the sunshine is most effective this month because it floods the air and ground, dousing the plants with its warming benefits and feeding the plants. Remember, the sun is what enables our plants to be able to photosynthesize and make carbohydrates. Therefore, sunshine is plant food, not fertilizer!

June tips ‛n’ tricks:

Plant the warm season annuals (whether you plant flowers or vegetables). These are petunias, impatiens, eggplants, tomatoes, tomatillos, golden berries, peppers, corn, basil, cucumbers and more.
Fertilize your annuals every two weeks with a natural fertilizer will cause them to grow well and produce. This would be a fertilizer which is not derived from petroleum but from manure, kelp, shells, blood, bone, rock or feathers. Remember, too much nitrogen simply gives lots of leaves but not much fruit. For a veggie bed, a ‘balanced’ fertilizer is best. This will be one that has the three letters representing nitrogen, phosphorus and potassium (N, P, K), like 5-4-3 or 4-3-2, where the first number is the highest, but not a lot higher than the other two.
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower at your favorite high setting for the rest of the summer until October. Keeping the grass longer during the hot months helps to shade the roots and keep the grass greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is basically over and there will soon be less weeds to pull because the warm rain is no longer with us. If you’re in a hurry you can simply toss the weeds (the ones which are not going to seed) out in the sunny part of the bed, and they will dry up right there by the end of the day. Don’t do this on a rainy cloudy day because they just might strike root and grow again! Also, put the ones with seeds in the debris bin.
Water everything as needed, one inch per week (at minimum) for the lawn, and half an inch for the shrubs. This is a standard rule of thumb for an average warm dry June week.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Use pet-safe bait.
Prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they finish blooming if they need it.
Check the rhodies and azaleas for weevils. Nematodes or insect tape can be used to combat them. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look discolored. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called green or brown lace wings. You can purchase the eggs of these predators locally.
Deadhead rhodies. This will make them look neater and bloom more next year.
Check for aphids and cabbage worms on veggies or roses and, if needed, choose your method of action.
Continue to take care of coddling moths and scab on apples and pears. Check with the xxtension service, ( https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ ) to see how often they need to be treated.
Thin out the excess little fruits on pears and apples. If you do not thin them, you will have little fruits and they might become too heavy and break off whole branches!
Spray to prevent fruit flies on cherries. Check with the extension service. ( https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ )

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for May 2022

Fri, 29 Apr 2022 21:33:00 GMT

It has been so nice to enjoy rainfall in April. Last year, April was a warm, dry month. We had the horrific heat wave last June. I am hoping that this year we will NOT have a repeat of those phenomenons and that this current cooler dampish trend will continue.

May tips ‛n’ tricks:

May is considered the month to purchase your annuals to plant outside in your pots or flower beds. However, just remember it is NOT time yet to plant the ones which like HEAT, such as tomatoes and basil. The reasoning is that, by this time, the soil has not yet warmed up enough and the nights are still cool. So, if one plants these warmer season plants, they will most likely simply sit and pout, rot or drown if it rains or if you irrigate too much.
Lawn and beds. It is time to begin moderate irrigation if the rain has not been enough. In April most people consider turning on their irrigation systems, (if they have them) if it is dry. We recommend using this month as an irrigation check month so that if May turns dry you are all prepared!
Fertilize lawn with a natural fertilizer (non-petrochemical). Do this just before you run the irrigation or before it rains so that it will go down to the roots and not burn your lawn.
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower one setting higher than you set it in April.
If you have found that you need to thatch and renovate your lawn yearly to get the water to penetrate during the dry months, we have a recommendation. We have found that if we use totally natural fertilizer (no petroleum derivatives) we have yet needed to take this step. We believe it is because the earthworms take care of the dead grass/stems called thatch and keep our ground free-draining. Using petrochemicals burns their skins or kills them outright and makes them leave the lawn!
Weed now! If you do a minimum weeding, always pull up the ones that are going to seed first and then get what you can of the others. The others can often wait till another day if you do not have the time today. Five minutes weeding can be critical!
Begin root weevil control. You may use nematodes for the beetle larvae. They come in a liquid which is kept in the refrigerator at your nursery as they are alive. Another alternative for adults is to sprinkle DE (diatomaceous earth) on the ground surface around the plants. A final way to get to the adults is to use sticky traps on the trunks of the plants to trap them. They cannot fly and then must walk up the trunk to get to the tender leaves. The sticky traps trap them well, and you will be able to see the results.
We normally leave the composting leaf and stem litter—which naturally falls from the trees and shrubs onto the ground—underneath all manner all shrubs, perennials and trees. This is usually enough fertilizer for all the plants to do well. I do not fertilize any of these plants unless they look stressed or show chlorotic leaves, and then I use Alaska Fish Fertilizer. Of course, annuals such as veggies and flowers need liquid fertilizer as they have only one season to do their job!
Consider planting chrysanthemums now for a burst of fall color that will return as a surprise every year. They like full sun and good drainage—do not plant them where water drains to them.
Control aphids by washing the foliage with soap suds, removing by hand, or by promoting natural predators such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of tiny, shiny, black beetles on cabbage and potatoes indicates a flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (bacillus Thuringensis) or soapy water. Pick them off if you can see them, or all the above.
Control slugs with bait, salt or by smashing. If you have chickens, put out a couple wood boards (or something similiar) for them to hang out on the underside of, then daily flip then over and collect some extra food that your chickens will love.
Prune plants which really need it, but after they flower!
Later in May, or the first week of June, plant the warm season vegetables. These are tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, snap/lima beans, brussels sprouts, slicing/pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer/winter squash and onions.
Spray fruit, nut and shade trees for tent caterpillars, if present.

Get out there and do this now! Remember that doing so will cut down on boredom associated with Covid-19 cloistering and over-stimulation from electronic media. It will get you in touch with the real world! Smell the air, listen to the birds, the fluttering leaves and the frogs! Feel the sun and wind in your hair!

Favs and Flops - A Gardener’s Confession

Fri, 29 Apr 2022 21:11:00 GMT

A fun topic that has circulated in the garden blog sphere over the past couple of years has been plant favorites and flops. Even though we are professionals, we are constantly experimenting and puttering in our own gardens. In this post, Phil, Miriam and Dale all weigh in on three plants that have been a favorite in their gardens and three that they have either regretted planting or dealt with creeping in from other sources.

Phil’s Favorites

Phil’s Flops:

Miriam’s Favorites:

Miriam’s Flops:

Dale’s Favorites: I admit, I love a lot of plants, I’m a plant addict! Here are three I like more than others.

Dale’s Flops: I’ll list three that could work great in other situations but became a source of contention for me.

The After

Fri, 01 Apr 2022 23:45:00 GMT

The Front Yard

I don't know about you, but I find before and after photos so satisfying. Feel free to just sit and watch the slides for a few minutes, I know I have! Notice how the rock work really breaks up the space and the plants bring a variety of textures and colors, even in their small newly planted form.

In the above picture you can see the neighbor’s dry creek bed on the left and the newly created one on the right. See how the variety in sizes and shapes of rock completely changes the feel and turns it into a functional and aesthetically pleasing element?

The plants were selected to tolerate the southern exposure of the front yard and play with the vertical plane of the space. On the left, there is a ginkgo tree that will grow quite tall and, on the right, a grouping of three strawberry trees that will create a balance.

I am especially pleased with how this small nook by the front door turned out (below). What was once river rock with pots of bamboo is now a dry creek bed with a reading rock and plantings. This bed also features a cement Gunnera leaf created by the client, styled to appear like it is floating down the creek. There is also a columnar Gingko that will grow to vertically break up the tall walls surrounding the area.

Moving toward the back yard, we can see that the bank of ivy was successfully removed and replaced with plantings, boulders and a nice rock edge. We were able to reuse a lot of the client’s existing plants in that area and create some beautiful swaths of black Mondo grass and Bergenia, which will look stunning once they recover from their move and fill in over time.

Front Yard Plant Highlights

The Back Yard

Its so satisfying to see the slope without the juniper weighing it down. It was difficult to design that area as we couldn’t tell what was underneath the juniper, so that part of the installation required quite a bit of on-the-spot designing with boulder placement and planting. I like how the beautifully carved stonework shows up so much better now and will be beautifully framed once the plants grow into the space. The installation crew did a fabulous job with the natural flagstone, which brings a very cohesive feel to the area.

Back Yard Plant Highlights

Our fearless foreman, Steve, cleaning up the job site. None of this would be possible without our talented crew!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for April 2022

Fri, 01 Apr 2022 23:45:00 GMT

It is surprising to me that we have fulfilled what the professional weather people call their water year. For once, we do not have to listen to doom and gloom on that front as we have so many downers in other areas. We can say to ourselves, “this year, we won’t have to worry about not having enough water to keep our garden alive during the hot dry months!” So, with that thought guarding my emotions, I walk out into my garden adequately armed with my Hori-Hori, hand clippers, weed bucket and kneeling pad—ready to do war with weeds as well as trim any unnoticed dead perennial tops. I have used natural mulch for so long that there are very few weeds anymore. The soil is moist, so they come out with ease! A few are beginning to flower, but it has been cool enough that they are not yet going to seed.

Here are some tips and tricks for April:

Bait for slugs (and snails): If you do not like to purchase bait, remember there are other options. Cheap beer is a good option. Slugs seem to be indiscriminate in this regard—no need to use micro brew! It can act as bait if placed in a shallow bowl. Remember to replace it after rain or when it has filled up with dead slug bodies.
Deer and bunnies: If you live near where these creatures are active, remember to take measures! It is particularly important this time of year with the tender new growth emerging from your beloved plants. One trick I have used is Irish Spring™ soap hung around the bushes—the deer do not like the smell. There are also products which can be sprayed on the plants that deter both deer and bunnies. Fencing is also a choice, albeit more permanent and expensive.
Weed regularly: It has been cool and moist enough that weeds are still small. Most of them are not mature enough to set seed, so pull them out now. Preventing weeds from setting seeds is the very best way to cut down on the number of weeds in your garden for the future.
Mow weekly: Set your lawnmower higher than you did in March. If you mow this month for the very first time you should set it at the very lowest setting to wake up the grass. This might take two or three cuts to not clog up your mower and get the lawn cut correctly. The first mow is the year’s most difficult cut—that is, if you mow weekly the rest of the year.
Leave the foliage on spring flowering bulbs: Only cut off the seedpods after the blooms are finished as the foliage needs to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms. I recommend waiting to cut the foliage until it is an ugly yellow-brown.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees: We recommend only doing this if they need it. If they do need it, wait until immediately after the blossoms have faded.
Summer blooming bulbs: Plant bulbs, like gladiolas and dahlias, for extended summer bloom.
Veggie garden: Its time to prepare the veggie garden for spring planting if you have not already done so.
Purchase and plant these starts: Rhubarb, potatoes and asparagus, if you have not done so already—ours were planted last month. All three of these are perennial plants in our climate.
Plant these vegetables: The following are traditionally planted in April—of course, only if your garden is prepared and ready: peas, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, chives, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, parsnips, radishes and turnips.
Check berries for spittlebugs and aphids: I f present, wash them off with water or soap and water. If you have not pruned them for this year’s growth, do it now.
Fruit tree maintenance: If you have problems with pear and apple scab, spray them with lime/sulfur. Also, there is very little time left to thin branches in your fruit trees, but be careful if you do as you may knock off new buds in the process which contain your future fruit!
Rose maintenance: The natural way to help control rose diseases is to remove all infected leaves—such as black spot and mildew—by cutting them off and throwing them in the garbage. Remember to prune for air circulation to help prevent black spot and mildew.
Last year's perennial clean up: If there are any brown, dead perennial tops left, now is the time to cut them down to allow the new spring growth! Do this before the new leaves begin popping out of the ground or you will have to spend more time selectively pruning each individual dead stalk to prevent damaging the new spring growth.
Sword Ferns: If you did not shear your sword ferns in March, you have very little time left to cut them down to two inches before they unfurl their new fronds!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for March 2022

Tue, 01 Mar 2022 22:20:00 GMT

March 20 is the date we have all been looking for. Spring 2022!

We had heavy rains in early winter, but it dried out later in January and February was a dry month (despite recent weather). Who knows what March will bring! March and April is the time to determine if this September you want to purchase more bulbs and specifically where you want to plant them so that Spring 2023 will be even more amazing! Make a note of it somewhere what exactly you will need to purchase in September 2022! The robins have set up their territories and are now loudly proclaiming at dawn. Our Oregon Chorus frogs are actively forming a symphony for our entire neighborhood from our back yard pond. The bees have been seen out visiting our spring blooms.

Here are some tips and tricks for March:

This is the best time to purchase perennial plants at the nursery. Many of them are now in 4” size and ready to grow if you put them in the ground! 4” is less expensive than #1 containers! You will see, as the weather warms, these same plants, if left in the nursery, will grow out of their pots and the nurseries will then pot them up into #1’s or number #2’s and then of course the price will increase to reflect that work. This goes for shrubs and trees as well. Now is the time to get the best value for your purchase. If you wait till it is warm, the prices will increase, and you will miss the early bird choices and possibilities!
It is important now, if you have not yet done it, to quickly prune off any of last year’s perennial ugly brown foliage that you did not get to. It is important to prune them before the new sprouts begin to come up.
Continue weeding to prevent your weeds from going to seed! Seriously, if you weed now, summer weeding will be so much easier! And if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time, just please be careful when using this sort of thing!!
Continue baiting for slugs!
This is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it soon, before they sprout. If a plant is starting to sprout, it just might be best to leave it alone and wait for next fall to move it.
Prune your spring-flowering shrubs after the blossoms fade, and only if they really need it.
Trim or shear Winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished - usually later in March. This keeps them nice and tight and full.
Now is the time to cut off all your Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to open all their new fronds. This is mainly where you look at them from a path or a window. Obviously, if you own a woodsy section, you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods this way! No one does it out in the forest!
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas with compost, or, only if necessary, use an acid-type fertilizer (an indicator is that the leaves are yellow).
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that didn’t get mulched last month.
Lawn-mowing begins this month, so, set your blade at the lowest setting that you are comfortable with: 3/4”-1” for bent grass lawns; 1 1/2” to 2 1/2” for fine fescue and ryegrasses. Set it as low as you can without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn after you do this, and it might take three tries to get it to the level that you want. The grass will be wet and green, and you do not want to clog up or kill your lawn mower! Do not leave the clumps on the grass this month as you will create brown spots. Throw the clumps into the beds or the composter.
This is the time for the first 2020 application of lawn fertilizer after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical, we suggest 16-5-5).
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost (we suggest 10-10-10).
Prune out dead wood on raspberries, blueberries and gooseberries to keep them from getting too big, then spread wood shavings and, as needed, manure/compost.

Plant Focus: Cyclamen coum

Tue, 01 Mar 2022 22:20:00 GMT

The state of the world feels like a lot right now. I recently stumbled across this post Phil wrote a few years ago about how a humble plant brought him cheer and inspiration during a dark time in his life. It felt like the right thing to share with you this month, I hope that you will each find your own metaphorical Cyclamen.

~ Rebekah

PS. Never fear, the part two of our Before and After is coming, we have decided to push it out a few months to give the plants a little bit of time to grow and establish.

Cyclamen coum

On a rainy cold day in the winter of 1982, I found myself having been laid off my job. Life in general was very discouraging as I had a wife and two small daughters and not enough money to go around. I was starting a part time minimum wage job at a nursery. We were only able to pay the interest on our mortgage loan. My wife had just started to clean homes. While walking our neighborhood, with my eldest daughter, age 4, scrounging for bottles to get cash for milk, I found an old house with the most marvelous cheery little plant blooming. It was late January and there was frost on its cute rounded dark green leaves. I did not know what it was, but, determined that I would find out. I knocked on the door and an elderly lady peered through the window. When she saw my daughter holding my hand she opened the door. I asked her about the plants, she beamed and walked outside with me. She said that they were Winter blooming Cyclamen called Cyclamen coum. I asked if I could have a start of them. She said that she could give me one bulb, but she did not want to part with many because they were slow to get established.

She said that she had started that patch several years ago and it was now about a 4’ circle. She told me of a nursery where I could go and purchase more. She carefully dug up one bulb with a few leaves and 2 blooms attached. My daughter and I hurried home so that we could get it into the ground.
She said to plant it so that the top growing point was exactly 1/8 inch above the surrounding soil. She said, “it needs good drainage, it does not need to be watered because it goes dormant in the summer dry season and you will not be able to see it, so put a marker where you planted it so that you will remember the location until you have a patch and know where the leaves will come up in November.

I planted it and watching the bright pink blooms that Winter gave me the inspiration for our company name and logo.

Once a Cyclamen coum has become established in your yard, the best way to create a winter blooming patch of this little plant is by seed. However, to establish them, I recommend planting about 6 plants. This will be expensive as each one may cost at least $10-$12 for a 4” plant, if you can find them. They are prone to root rot the first season while they are establishing themselves. Water the plants well when you plant them but leave them alone after that. Once a bulb grows to the size where it will bloom, that is usually about ½ an inch in diameter, then it will set seed for you to increase the patch.

The fruit, which holds the seeds, looks like a little brown berry with a coiled stem looking like a spring! As the bulbs grow each season, they will set more of these brown berries with coiled stems. The leaves will disappear once the warmer dryer days of late spring and early summer approach so mark the location! Look at the spot in August and you will see just the little group of “brown berries” with coiled stems where once there were leaves and blooms in Winter.

In September/October, keep watching the berries and very lightly squeeze them to see if they are beginning to ripen. When they are about ready to pop, they will feel a little squishy. Up to that point they are hard round marbles. Once they reach the squishy state, watch them every day. When the first one pops open and begins spreading its sticky seeds, carefully harvest all the berries from that plant and put them in an envelope, seal it and place it on your desk till it has all dried out. This takes about a month. Keep checking the rest and see if you can harvest them all. Then, when you are ready to place the seeds back in the ground (this must be during the rainy season), determine where you want to create a patch of Cyclamen coum. Just sprinkle them carefully on the worked up ground and watch for the tiny little single round leaves to appear in about a month or so. That will be your proof that you are beginning your patch!

They can handle it from this point on. Don’t water them. Don’t fertilize them. Let them have leaf duff and the normal forest debris that collects, when a little plant is trying to grow in semi shade. Their only serious enemy, in my experiences with them, have been cats using the dry duff as Kitty Litter!

The Before

Tue, 01 Feb 2022 20:28:00 GMT

Move that bus!

Who isn’t a sucker for a good before and after?

Here at Winterbloom we transform spaces for a living and it is so satisfying to watch. This month and next we are bringing you along for the ride start to finish to see how we've been changing a property over the last year, beginning with design and ending with the install.

Summer 2020 the design team pulled up to this residence and began to gather information about the site. The home is located in a part of Lake Oswego where the topography of the land changes drastically and many of the houses in the area are set on huge boulders that were carried in by the Missoula floods a millennia ago.

In the front yard, the client’s main concern was feeling as though they lived atop a mound of bark dust that sloped to the street. They also had several shrubs that had outgrown the space and had been pruned into balls for many years. They were not attached to any of the plants in the front yard, save for a small Japanese maple by the front door, so we were essentially gifted a blank slate to work with.

Another area of concern was a huge bank of ivy that ran up the side of their house which they wished to be removed.

Front Yard Design

To address the large mound of bark dust, we broke up the hill with large boulders and a small retaining wall and then played with the vertical plane with plantings by adding another dimension to the space. In our design process, we always aim for at least 75% evergreen plants in a front yard to keep year-round interest - this helps combat seasonal big empty spaces.

As often happens, the final design for the front went through a few iterations and tweaks before the install work began.

The back yard was especially challenging due to a steep bank with boulders that take up a big portion of the yard.

One of the things the client loves most about their back yard are these big, rugged basalt boulders, which they had carved with Irish runes a few years ago by a local artist. The thing they hate most? The bank of juniper right above it.

I have a theory that this variety of juniper is to landscaping what shag carpet was to interior design in the 1970’s.

You see it, right?

In the design, we marked the juniper to be removed, however we didn’t want to compromise the integrity of the hill by ripping away all the plant matter that had been retaining it for years. We suggested cutting away the juniper and leaving the root system in place. Then we recommended setting in boulders further up the bank to tie in with the beloved ones down below and laying down jute fabric and planting through it with plants that have good, strong root systems.

Back Yard Design

There were two rotting wooden retaining walls that were recommended to be replaced with dry stacked basalt walls and the patio was marked to be reconstructed in a manner that did not slope towards the house.

Progress:

Stay tuned for the final reveal in March!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for February 2022

Tue, 01 Feb 2022 20:28:00 GMT

We have made it into February and each of us in Western Oregon are wondering, will we have another ice and snow event that will be as difficult as 2021?
Fortunately, January is over without damaging weather. Let’s do our best to prepare for the worst and think positively. February is potentially a wonderful month for gardening. We will still have rain of course, but it’s a bit of a warmer rain (theoretically).
Here are some tips and tricks for February!

February Tips and Tricks:

Bait for slugs; place the bait near things that they love to munch on. Beer in a pan works!
Weed! Now is the time when weeds are small, weak, and helpless. Take one section of your yard per weekend and work all the way around the yard in a month. It will save you hours of work later in the warm weather, when they will have rooted well and grown big! Weed before any of them go to seed!
It is an excellent time to transplant if you need to move a plant!
Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs now. If they are bare-rooted, it is more of a challenge, but less expensive.
Plant perennials and perennial herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage, and thyme (Remember that mint and oregano are invasive, I always plant those in Pots).
Prune fruit trees as needed (if you start this task when they are VERY young, you will have an easier time of it than if they grow older). This practice needs regular thought!
Prune and train grapes.
Prune your roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, most of them are grafted onto wild roses. We believe that it is worth the investment to purchase self-rooted roses. Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the best place we know of locally.
Prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries in order to bring them inside the house to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, ie. butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis, and hydrangea that need pruning. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs now such as azaleas and Rhododendrons! If you do, you will cut off the bloom buds. Prune them right after they bloom!
Prune back perennials that have not been pruned back yet to about four inches. This year has been cold enough that you may wonder if your Fuchsias have really died to the ground. So, unless you just can’t handle looking at the bare sticks, wait until you see how far up the stems the little green buds are coming out, trimming them down to that mark.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick every two years. Compost mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do this in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers the weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground during the dry season and then in the rainy season it prevents erosion. I personally just use the leaves from my trees and shrubs along with my perennial trimmings to make my mulch. It is less expensive, and I do not have to haul anything in wheelbarrows.

For adventuresome gardeners:

Make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers from seeds or starts.
If you do this, prepare soil for growing pots and flats of seedlings.
Plant seed flats this month for crops in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli, and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors.
Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae.
Time for the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.

A Visit to The Huntington Gardens, San Marino, California

Sat, 01 Jan 2022 00:00:00 GMT

January is here! Happy New Year! It's hard for me to believe 2021 has come and gone; alas, part of me is glad it's over! The temps are colder and it is time for me to begin my annual fantasizing about warmer locations. For this post, I'd like to bring you to one of my favorite gardens in Southern California - The Huntington Gardens.

Echinocactus grusonii-Golden Barrel and Agave parryi var truncata

In late October, I had the opportunity to visit friends in Southern California. Our friends expressed interest in driving to see the Huntington Gardens, so we excitedly planned the trip.

The Huntington Library, Art Museum, and Botanical Gardens are easily a whole day's worth of exploring; my favorite part of the garden is The Desert Garden, with sweeping paths lined with beautiful displays of cactus and succulents. It's easy to get lost in awe, with each turn revealing exciting new plant combinations. I hope you can feel the warmth in these photos.

Denmoza erythrocephala x Cleistocactus strausii

A bit of The Huntington history from their website :

"The Huntington is a private nonprofit collections-based research and educational institution founded in 1919 by Henry E. and Arabella Huntington. Henry E. Huntington was an exceptional businessman who built a financial empire in Southern California. He was also a man of vision—with a special interest in rare books, art, and gardens. During his lifetime, he amassed the core of one of the finest research libraries in the world, assembled a spectacular art collection, and established an array of botanical gardens with plants from a geographic range spanning the globe. The Huntington's collections have continued to grow since Henry Huntington's time, serving up a feast for the senses and intellect, linked by a devotion to research, education, and beauty."

Pua venusta

As I toured the garden, I saw some Puya in large sweeps. I hadn't noticed these before. These plants have been here for some time, but I hadn't become familiar with them yet, and this time I was very excited to see them! I am growing three Puyas in my garden at home: Puya chilensis (in a pot that goes under the eve for wither protection); Puya mirablis (planted in the ground under my eve); and Puya dyckiodies that grows happily in a bed constructed to offer exceptional drainage. To see these plants in large swaths, now that I've become somewhat infatuated with them, was quite something!

Puya bertoniana

Puyas are terrestrial bromeliads related to pineapples. This genus of about 200 species in South America mostly grow on the cool, dry, rocky slopes of the Andes Mountains. The tallest bromeliad, the "Queen of the Andes" Puya raimondii, can reach 50 feet in height!!! Puya are, for the most part, mean plants… The leaves of most Puya will slice your hands and arms with their armored hooks that line the leaves. Some will cut you, while others will dig in with hooked edges and not let go! Oddly, these are just some of the characteristics that draw me to them. Depending on the species, the inflorescence can be quite the spectacle.

Puya coerulea var. violacea

If you have not yet visited this garden and find yourself in Southern California, I urge you to do so. The Japanese and Chinese gardens are also quite enchanting!
I will leave you with a collection of my photos of The Desert Garden.
- Dale

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for January 2022

Fri, 31 Dec 2021 23:58:00 GMT

January 2022, A Fresh New Beginning! It is good to be back to just cool rainy weather without the threat of snow each day as we had in December. Although, I am happy that maybe some of our insect enemies were frosted during our cold period.
Here are some tips and tricks for ideas to get out and exercise in your garden this January (You will not have to pay a gym to get in shape):

January Tips and Tricks:

This is a great time for transplanting. This should not be done when the temps are below freezing, however! Generally, this is not a problem, because the average human is not interested in transplanting unless the ground is soft and moist! Frozen ground is NOT amenable to planting or transplanting!
One can plant Peas this month! There are of course sweet peas (grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or (eating peas). Consider if you have a spot in the garden with full sun and great drainage for these fragrant gems. If you do not yet have a spot, consider this an excuse for a small project exercise! If you procrastinate until the warm weather to plant your peas, their insect and fungus enemies will be ready to jump on them. So, don’t wait, plant them in the very cool weather of winter, while their enemies are asleep! Plant peas where the soil will be in full sun, well drained and workable. Peas are the easiest, and the most successfully grown from seeds!
Eating Peas are available as: Shelled peas -This is the type of Pea where one only eats the little round peas inside and not the pod. It involves the most work, but if you are a French pea aficionado then this is the one for you; Snap peas - This is the one that has a full crisp thick pod with the peas left inside, the whole thing is sweet, and one can easily eat pod and all, fresh. The whole pod can be used as a snack, cooked or in salads.; Snow peas - This is the one that is normally used for stir-fry Asian dishes. It appears as a thinner rubbery pod which is picked early before it fills out with the little round peas.
It is still too early to start most other seeds for spring vegetable plants in the garden or in a cold frame for transplants.
It is very important to water landscape plants underneath any wide eaves around your house, as well as any other spots protected from rain, at least once a month. Monitor them until the irrigation is turned back on.
Moss appearing in your lawn usually means too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year to decide what to do. Your options are, #1. Get rid of the shade or #2. Shrink the lawn so that there is less lawn in the shade. Shade is the enemy of lawn grasses. Shade at the same time encourages moss! Moss can quickly out-compete lawn if it is a half shade situation. Moss killer is easily applied. However, if one uses Iron oxide, it is not poisonous. The use of Zinc and some other products are poisonous to humans and animals. If your trees are getting too big and shading the lawn, then the first option might be to remove some of the branches or, the whole tree to get your lawn performing like you want! Of course, you could just remove the most shaded part of the lawn, work it up and make it a new bed.
For winter indoor color, gather branches of budding branches, such as flowering quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries and bring them inside. If you mash the bottom of the stems, after cutting them to the right length, they will last longer in water. The warmth of the house will force early blooming on the stems for beautiful bouquets.
Monitor houseplants for correct watering and feeding; guard against insect infestations, clean dust from their leaves. Use a low-level fertilizer like “Oxygen Plus.” Do NOT overwater this time of the year. It is very easy to do.
It is time to plan out and commence with your winter pruning!
Browse online or through Garden magazine for ideas and follow up with your local garden/nursery stores or seed catalogs for plants you want to start from seed. January is a great month to begin planning 2022 veggies and annual flowers. I usually begin daydreaming this time of the year about landscape changes or additions.
For our country friends, remember to watch for field mice or vole damage on the lower trunks of trees and shrubs. They can quickly kill young trees or shrubs! Control measures include cats, approved baits, weed control and traps.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for December 2021

Fri, 03 Dec 2021 19:01:00 GMT

We trust that as you read this, you are experiencing a great holiday season by connecting with those that you love and that despite the multitude of challenges brought on by Covid-19, you are able to experience gratefulness for life!

Here is a good task list to get you moving and doing in December!

December Tips and Tricks:

Transplant just about anything anytime unless the ground is frozen.
Plant any hardy trees, shrubs, and perennials unless the ground is frozen or covered with snow!
Protect any new bigger plants which seem to have a sail, from damaging winds using stakes, guy wires, windbreaks or proper site selection.
Poinsettia care: protect from cold; place where it will receive some sunlight - however, don’t let the leaves touch cold windows; fertilize every three weeks; water just enough to keep moist. In west Oregon, they must be kept indoors!
Cut and dip Holly for holiday use. Holly Dip is available at your local nursery. If you dip the cut tips of the branches, the berries and leaves will not wither or fall off during the holiday season.
Continually rake leaves off the lawn and hard surfaces (leaves may be left in the beds for an inexpensive mulch, which feeds the soil).
When you decide to dedicate an hour or two for projects in the garden, start by cutting down any ugly perennial flower stalks; hoe or pull the winter weeds, particularly in the parts of the yard which are viewed by the public. If you do not like fall leaves as mulch and/or your flowerbeds are bare, spread some bark or garden mulch instead.
After the holidays, you may begin working on seriously cutting back all the dormant perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard. Remember to pace yourself! Enjoy the freshly washed air, the pungent crisp smells, the bird activities and calls!
Monitor your houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much lower in the winter than the rest of the year. DO NOT overwater or your babies may rot and die!
Consider garden-related holiday gifts for the gardeners you know.
It is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses, (if you can still find them), but don’t delay.
Watch the yard for overly wet or non-draining areas and strategize what you want to do in those areas. You are always welcome to call us, and we would be happy to visit with you to talk about your options!

What We're Reading

Fri, 03 Dec 2021 18:54:00 GMT

This month Phil, Dale and I will be sharing the books that we've been curling up with the past month and enjoying. This time of year is great reading weather, there's nothing quite like snuggling up with a book when it's gloomy and rainy outside or reading in a pool of sunlight streaming in through the window on a crisp, sunny day.

Dale's Bookshelf:

Last month, I read Nature’s Best Hope and it has inspired me to be more mindful of the design of my front garden - so much so, that I wanted to share my thoughts on the book here.

Nature’s Best Hope by Dr. Doug Tallamy sets a fire under the feet of those who are concerned about wildlife and those who would like to encourage wildlife in their own garden. It gives examples of each step one can take to help wildlife and ecosystems in our areas using native plants and eliminating or rethinking lawn space to create a habitat instead of a sterile monoculture of non-native plants.

Much of the worlds natural areas have been reduced to small areas that need to be protected. These areas are very small in the big picture and Doug believes we can all do our part in our own backyards to try to connect these natural areas again, giving wildlife a chance with the use of native species and careful consideration of the space.

After reading this book, I changed my thoughts on my garden and while I won’t be using all native plants, I will have a good amount of west coast natives that I have researched to know what insects each plant is a host for.

There is a lot of controversy over native vs non-native plants, and there are many ongoing studies on the issue. I did some more research and believe the use of native plants in our own gardens is important, but that we can create a nice biodiverse habitat and include them both, so long as we are mindful about the plants we include.

There is a handy little website by the National Wildlife Federation called Native Plant Finder that is based on Tallamy’s work.

Phil's Bookshelf:

I received a very special book for my 70 ^th Birthday which I thought was worth sharing. I love witty quotes, and sayings - I have even created a few myself! This book is a collection of quotes and witty sayings for gardener types in specific, but in truth, it touches the soul of all lovers of a life built on working with Nature.

The book is called Quotes, Quips, and words of Wisdom, compiled and edited by Nina Pick. Here is a quote that speaks my language: “A garden should feel like a walk in the woods” - Dan Kiley. I enjoy a good walk in the forest and meadow here in the Pacific NW; there is so much to see, hear and experience!

When I walk with others, they either learn to slow down and enjoy the bounty of offered details or they leave me to walk on with some goal of their own! I am a bit like a dog in this respect – not in the sense that I spend a lot of time peeing or sniffing strange things, but rather I try to inspect or identify any plant that looks different. I often hug a tree to feel its energy. I listen to birds calling and try to identify who is creating the song. It is a big challenge to try to get a good angle to see the singer and try to identify it by its song. Then we are good to continue on our way.

Views and vistas should be appreciated as well as sunsets, sunrises and cloud formations – all of which are interesting in their own way. Occasionally, an insect catches my eye and I am mesmerized. I continually look for what plants are blooming at that particular time and try to remember what time that select type bloomed last year.

In my garden, I do all of these same actions, the only difference is that I spend more time lingering in my garden, because I constantly find plants which need a bit of pruning or an errant plant or two which requires being pulled straight out of the ground.
This is a second quote which I identify with, “In the Spring at the end of the day, you should smell like dirt!” - Margaret Atwood. I do love the smell of soil warming in the spring sun as the days get longer. It is especially magical after it has rained and the earth smells absolutely ravishing! the soil is fragrant to me, all year long, but especially so on a warm spring day!

This quote communicates one of our very important principals of Landscape design. “There is nothing like Nature to teach garden design.” - Lee May. Here at Winterbloom, we are constantly using cues from nature, whether it’s rock formations, grassy meadows laced with blooming perennials, a plant that has a special structure or rolling hills to give us ideas of what looks good alone or together. A winding, sinuous stream with wooded banks and a waterfalls creates the best of beautiful models.

Rebekah's Bookshelf:

I have been reading through The Dry Gardening Handbook – Plants and Practices for a Changing Climate by Olivier Filippi and it is quickly becoming a valuable resource to me that I foresee revisiting time and time again. After this past summer’s heat dome I have had many clients asking about more drought and heat tolerant plants for their yards. Filippi has been researching and growing drought tolerant plants for decades and has some very useful tips and accompanying plant list.

It may come as a surprise to some of you to know that where we live in Oregon is technically a Mediterranean climate, similar to the Mediterranean as well as parts of Chile, Australia and South Africa. This means that we have long dry summers and wet winters. Filippi flips our concept of traditional seasons, derived from the traditional English garden, on its head and addresses the fact that the dormant season for most Mediterranean plants is in fact summer; this is very important to keep in mind when thinking of designing a garden comprised of these plants.

He gives useful instruction around planting conditions, pruning, watering and other plant care specific to this genre of plants. In addition, a better half of the book is comprised of a plant index of his preferred drought tolerant, Mediterranean plants. These plants are listed with place of origin, level of drought tolerance (according to his scale) and cold tolerance. Be aware: some of the plants listed are not hardy in our area and some are known to spread, so a second resource like the Sunset Western Gardening book is recommended when selecting plants from his list.

If, like me, you are concerned with creating a beautiful garden within the context of climate change and our lengthening dry summers, this is well worth a read.

As we head into another holiday season we would like to thank all of you; our clients, friends and family, for your support through another challenging year. It is hard to believe that 2021 is almost over, we have grown, stretched and learned so much this year and it wouldn't have been possible without all of you. Merry Christmas, and a happy New Year!

Inspiration from a Scrap Yard

Mon, 01 Nov 2021 14:45:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series

This summer, in a meeting with our design team, we began discussing ways we could incorporate sustainability and more environmentally conscious practices into our work as a company. Our desire is to make the yards that we design feel like an extension of the home where our clients can enjoy and appreciate the nature around them, but how do we do this in a way that is also good for the earth? We haven’t come up with all the answers yet, but one thing we’ve been trying to learn more about is using reclaimed and recycled materials. That is one of the reasons Dale and I found ourselves dawning our muck boots, pulling on our gardening gloves and wandering through 2 acres of rusting steel hunting for treasures.

A visit to BBC Steel has become an informal rite of passage for many of the garden bloggers in the Portland area and, inspired by their posts and the creative ways we were seeing them use what they found, we decided it was time to make the journey down to Canby.

When you arrive, you will see the main BBC building on one side of the street. But if you go just a few feet more down the road, you will see the remnant steel yard on the opposite side of the road with a big sign that says, “open to the public.” That’s where you want to go. Once you go through the big barn like structure, nod at the bearded fellows driving the forklifts and enter through the other side. You will find the yard filled with rows and rows of cast-off sheets of steel skeletons from laser cuttings. If you find something you like but it isn’t quite perfect for you, they can have it cut for you, but so many of these pieces are perfect as is, and isn’t that part of the joy of the search?

We wandered through, taking our time, oohing and aaahing, brainstorming over different pieces we found, musing at how could they be used. So, we took pictures and drew up a few concepts to help you all see how one company's trash can be another company's treasure.

Screening: We have seen remnant steel sheets retrofitted for screening purposes to create a beautiful effect. There are many uses for these screens: to break up fence lines, to hide bins or AC units, to break up a space into separate rooms or simply for an interesting piece of art.

Trellis: Take your screening up a level and grow something on it; and while you're at it, why not play some more with the vertical plane and make an arbor?

Water Feature: Add some water to soften the hard metal edges, maybe a glass panel and some lights, and you have a fabulous combination.

Planting Pocket: This crescent shaped container could be set against a wall to create a delightful little planting pocket for the industrial garden.

Path: The metal discs intrigued me and I feel like there ought to be other great uses for them as well but the main one I could think of is select the biggest ones and set them like flagstones in a bed of crushed gravel for a path, this could be a formal pathway like pictures above with maybe some matching edging or as more of an informal path like stepping stones.

Raised Bed: If these giant tubes could be sectioned, they would make beautiful raised beds, they could be cut at a varying height and placed thoughtfully within plantings.

The possibilities are endless but one thing is for certain, we have falling in love with the look of rustic, aged steel in the garden.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for November 2021

Mon, 01 Nov 2021 14:43:00 GMT

Despite the chilly mornings and dry sunny days that we have had, we all know that the rains will return with a vengeance this month! Here are some tips and tricks to help all of us get through November in fine order!

November Tips and Tricks:

Mulch: Look for any bare ground and cover it with an organic mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). Weed the space first of course! Putting mulch down will insulate your plants from the potential cold to come, prevent erosion and, as the mulch breaks down, feed the soil fauna and flora to give the plant’s roots their valuable nutrients. Some plants, such as Fuchsias, Dahlias and Cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base just to stave off the cold. It is good to remember that the same mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out too quickly and overheating!
Irrigation: Provide winter protection to built-in sprinkler systems by #1. turning off the automatic controller and then #2. turning off the water to the system at the street or at the backflow prevention device. #3. If your system has a drain, remember to drain it!
Roses: If your roses are looking tall and gangly after their summer of growth, prune them back to about 1/3 in height to prevent winter wind damage.
Lawn Moss: If moss is appearing in your lawn, it may be telling you that you have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility or soil compaction or all the above. Use a lawn moss killer if you want to keep the grass looking thick and lush. Of course, you may decide to ultimately shrink the size of your lawn next to the trees or structures which may be causing too much shade. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what shrinking the size of the lawn might look like while you do not have to mow it!
Tools: Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean and oil tools and equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib. In really cold weather, if they have not been turned off and drained properly, they could burst!
Lawn Treatments: Now is the best time to lime your lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet. Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer if you did not do it last month.
Indoor Plants: Great time to purchase Paperwhite Narcissus for the holidays for indoor bloom forcing. They will bloom in approximately 5 weeks from the time that you start them in an indoor container.
Planting: This is a great time to plant new landscape trees and shrubs or to transplant them. Doing it now gives them time to establish their roots before our next summer hits.
Pruning: Now is the time to prune the plants which bloomed in late summer and October.
Bulbs: There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but don’t delay!
Observe: Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during the heavy rains; drywells/French drains and ditches are possible solutions.
Fertilize: You may lightly fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas with yellow leaves now for better green-up in the spring. Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. Make sure the soil is moist when you fertilize and do not overdo it! They normally prefer just leaves and mulch for their fertilizer.
Rake: Always remove leaves off the lawn, as soon as you can. Leaves left on lawns can quickly damage the grass! If the leaves are quickly moved into the beds, they will act like a quality, free mulch and they will NOT hurt the plants.

Advanced Gardening tips:

Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in dark area like garage.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around the base of fruit trees. Use other leaves or bark instead.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall).
This is a good time to cut and root Rhododendrons and Camellias; root Begonias from leaf cuttings.
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden area. A three to four-inch layer of raked leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost.
If you have a hedge of Arborvitae, consider tying up the limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives or even flowers for the dark rainy season.

Bosky Dell Natives

Tue, 05 Oct 2021 00:25:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series

It was a perfect fall morning when we arrived to explore Bosky Dell Natives nursery. As we stepped out of the car, the glorious smell of damp earth rose to greet us and we could hear the thriving population of birds singing and flying through the trees that live on the property. Bosky Dell Natives offers a portal into a world where the chaos of the wilderness is shaped into a whimsical semblance of order. Trailing branches grow through and around tree snags, rustic structures form entrances to garden rooms and green houses, clouds of purple asters are alive with the humming of the resident bees and friendly staff pop out of woodwork to offer help and advice.

Wandering through the garden left us feeling inspired. Imagine having a small garden where you turn a corner and open a door that leads to another garden room, a sitting area that almost feels like a secret.

Yes, there were aspects of this garden that felt magical!

What is Bosky Dell Natives?

Bosky Dell was created in the hopes to inspire other gardeners to become good stewards of the earth and our native ecosystems, from flora to fauna. They sell over 300 species of native plants, many that are hard to find.

There is a lovely Oregonian article by the Pecks that was published last year about the nursery, how it started and the inspiration behind it. Here is a link . Give it a read, it’s really good!

We keep referencing native plants, and you might ask yourself, what exactly is a native plant?

A native plant is one that is naturally occurring in a location/region without human introduction. You can narrow or broaden your range. For example, west coast native plants are plants native to the west coast. You can pick plants native to more specific regions such as the Willamette Valley or the Oregon coast.
Native plants are already adapted to our climate and, if sited well, need less input from the gardener.
Native plants have been found to be more beneficial to wildlife, there are many species of insects that rely heavily on native plants. Our native birds rely heavily on grubs and caterpillars; some of these insects are very host plant specific, meaning their survival depends on having those specific plants to live on. Without these native plants, our insect populations decline and the stress continues up the chain.

In researching for this post, we realized the conversation about natives is extensive and ongoing and really deserves its own post, so keep an eye out for that one in the next few months!

Here are a few of our favorite natives to use in designs:

Erigeron glaucus: This cheerful native blooms all summer long. It's semi evergreen foliage spills over side walk edges and fills in spaces. One cultivar name for this flower is Bountiful and that perfectly describes its nature.

Polystichum munitum: If I was to get a tattoo to represent the Pacific Northwest I would ink a sword fern onto my arm. This iconic plant can tolerate a variety of conditions, particularly dry shade which we seem to have a lot of in Oregon. It colonizes and creates a lush understory in places few other plants would grow (I feel like there's an interesting metaphor in there somewhere). It needs minimal maintenance - one only needs to cut off the crispy brown foliage in the spring and watch the new fronds elegantly unfurl into glossy green abundance.

Epilobium canum: Known as a California Fuschia, this late summer bloomer explodes in a firework display of orange. The semi-evergreen silver foliage stands out among other plantings. This plant can thrive in a hot rock garden or up against the reflected heat of pavement.

If the creators of Bosky Dell's intension was to inspire others to be good stewards of the landscape, I know that they have succeeded. We left feeling inspried by their use of our natural resources, such as the native plants and snags, that they put to use in an inventive and caring way to create beautiful habitats for the birds and other inhabitants of the nature around us.

Until next time Bosky Dell.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for October 2021

Tue, 05 Oct 2021 00:25:00 GMT

What a relief it has been to have experienced the rain in September! It quashed the fires and refreshed our plants, along with every growing living thing, including the humans, who were not stuck indoors! We all continue to live with Covid-19, but at least we do not have the massive smoke that we had to deal with a year ago, which kept many of us indoors!

October Tips and Tricks:

The last week of October, but sometimes the first week in November, is the last time that we mow weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time for yourself.
October is the first month where we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and the (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends on through the rainy season until about the middle of March. Now till then is the best time to plant in west Oregon!
If you want Spring blooms, make a trip now to your local nursery and purchase Spring bulbs and plant them in the ground! October/November are the traditional months for planting Spring bulbs. You can plant Fall bulbs now as well, such as Saffron, Crocus and Colchicums.
The rains will bring out the dormant sleepy slugs, so getting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart off a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs!
The fall leaves will start to begin to drop all over your yard. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will damage your lawn if left on, sometimes only in a day or two, but they can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds.
This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes.
Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them 2” thick over any bare areas in your beds for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out weed seeds from sprouting.

If you are seriously into gardening here are some more tips:

Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer
Pick any green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen.
Harvest Sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great for birds and human snacking.
Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash and pumpkins, keeping all in a dark, dry, cool place, around 40-45 degrees.
Harvest Filberts and Walnuts and place them on mats where they can be dry and about 60 degrees, to get them ready to eat.
Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. You must be quick each day as the rain and slugs will spoil the beautiful red threads.
Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter. Water them lightly just to keep them alive, maybe once a month over the winter. Just do not let them freeze.
Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums and Pelargoniums. Put in moist sandy soil and cover with a clear plastic bag, keeping the moisture in and keep them away from freezing temps allowing them to have light from a window.
Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases.
Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children.
Clean and prepare your greenhouse for Winter storage.
Consider manipulating light now to begin the process of forcing your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Trap moles. It has been my experience that baits do not work. Here is a local option that many have found to be helpful. It is a percussive method that seems to work. https://www.molecat.com/

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for September 2021

Wed, 01 Sep 2021 17:36:00 GMT

This is Summer’s last month. Take a moment as you walk, jog or drive to enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us by the end of October. My two favorite months of the year are September and October. That is because they tend to remain rather dry with sunny skies but with cooler weather than July or August. The transition from Summer into Fall is so different than the transition between Spring into Summer here in Western Oregon. Spring’s entrance is often a furious fight between the chilly wet days of winter and the warmer sunnier days of summer, which often includes storms, frosts, winds, and similar phenomena. Fall’s entrance, on the other hand, comes upon us with a slow cooling gentle slide into the rainy season.

September Tips and Tricks:

Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weed. Yes, keep doing it! Never give up!
This month and next month are the best months to plant or renovate lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold.
Bait for slugs.
You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives.
September through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The peak month is November.
Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September.
Pick tomatoes and potatoes.
September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are Winter-hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more.
September is also the final month for regular lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November).
Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
Prepare compost piles for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees this fall.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
Spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October.

Instructions for Over Seeding your Lawn:

The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May.

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake.
Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have!
Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days.
Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer, put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)
Overseeding a lawn now and then in damaged areas is just part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.

Leach Botanical Garden

Wed, 01 Sep 2021 17:36:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series pt.4

Tucked away up off of Foster road in Northeast Portland is Leach Botanical Garden. Compared to many of the other beautiful gardens in our area, Leach feels like a hidden treasure. It was founded by John and Lilla Leach who bought part of the property it sits on in 1913. Lilla was a talented botanist and the couple spent many hours together exploring the Oregon wilderness. Lilla cataloged five plant species previously unknown to the western world. They brought many of these discoveries back to their own garden and worked tirelessly to create their own little paradise. They donated the property to the city of Portland when they passed away and in 1983, the garden was opened to the public. The Leach Botanical Garden website has a more thorough and well written account of the history, and you can always go visit the garden to hear about it from one of the knowledgeable volunteers who are on site. Thanks to funding by the city of Portland, admission to Leach is free, although donations are very welcome. Due to the pandemic, you need to reserve a visiting time, which is easily done on their website.

Dale and I really enjoyed exploring this garden; there are many fine plant specimens, including some very established plants that we had never seen so happy and healthy.

Leach does many things well from a design perspective, seamlessly weaving together the more Japanese aesthetic that thrives here along with elements native to the Pacific Northwest. This is a balance that we often try to capture here in our Winterbloom design department as the two marry beautifully - and it was inspiring to see another entity take it on and make it thrive.

I was drawn to the way that the garden incorporated movement and dimension into the visitor’s experience. The path that leads up to the gardens has several beautifully crafted wooden benches that create a sense of movement. It’s as if an element of the landscape itself rose up to say, “Here, sit a moment, but don’t stay too long, keep wandering.” Leach has a lifted circular walkway that takes you through a grove of established trees and it is the perfect use of height in the garden. It gives you the feeling of walking in a canopy or being in a tree fort while giving you a whole new perspective on the garden around you.

At the entrance to Leach, you will find the three-season pollinator garden with plants that bloom spring, summer and fall to benefit pollinators. Included in this area is the only lawn in the garden and it is a good example of how lawn can be used to enhance design with negative space surrounded by other elements and to create an open and inviting area.

Here in the Pacific Northwest, we are blessed with a black basalt rock which looks stunning in a variety of landscapes. I really appreciated how it was incorporated into the garden at Leach, particularly in the woodland area. I loved the way this tall pillar of rock mimicked the trees around it but provided a difference in height and texture and almost a sense of mysticism, making me feel like I should encounter a wandering druid along the path.

The woodland area was one of my favorite spots; it was so well designed to give a sense of being in nature by incorporating large groupings and swaths of plants. You could tell it was thoughtfully created by the height of the plants and the way that sweeps of them set off tree trunks, nursery logs, snags, and the gnarled branches of tree like rhododendrons. There was a lush carpet of Oxalis oregonum that I wanted to lay down and take a nap in.

This urbanite wall also grabbed my attention, urbanite is created by using broken up slabs of recycled concrete to build a wall. As a bit of a design snob, I had always felt wary about using it; but in this shadowy canyon, it seemed like the perfect choice with the concrete ruble intermingling with the vibrant green moss.

Overall, I would say that Leach gave me a sense of romance; the sweeping stone staircases, the crunching gravel paths, the walkway in the trees. Gazing across Johnson Creek at the picturesque stone cabin, I could just imagine John and Lilla holed up on a rainy spring day, dreaming about their property and all that was to come.

Seabright Gardens

Tue, 03 Aug 2021 22:49:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series pt.3

Last week, we journeyed down to Seabright Gardens. Seabright is a lovely nursery in NE Salem, Oregon, that specializes in shade plants such as Hostas, Epimediums and Ferns. If you are looking for new Hostas or Ferns, or just need some inspiration, go check them out! They list over 980 different varieties of Hostas and you can see many of them on display in the nearly 4-acre garden. If you take the time to read through their entire online catalog, you will see Hostas when you close your eyes at night and have dreams filled with dancing Hostas - big blue ones, tiny mousey ones, lime-colored ones, striped ones, wavy ones!!!!

Seabright is a wonderful example of a collector’s garden. Their passion/obsession for Hostas is quite evident and many groupings and varieties are planted all over the garden, but are framed and set off by an abundance of other interesting plants that add height, dimension and texture to the scene. In fact, Dale and I were so taken by the other plants in the garden that we came away with very few Hosta centric photos. The garden is spectacular and, I must say, looks like everything did very well in our recent heat wave. Some plants probably loved it, like this Caesalpinia gilliesii that greets visitors as you enter the property:

Walking through the garden, you experience rich layers of green all around you that create a sense of tranquility, which is occasionally broken by the chickens and what sounds like a peacock next door. As you are jolted from a meditative state by the piercing cry of an ancient dinosaur, take a minute to lower your heart rate and breathe in the heady scent of the tall lilies that loom in the back of many beds.

We didn’t plan to visit while the Clematis were blooming, but we are sure happy they were and these simple structures for support have inspired me to create something similar in other gardens.

It’s very simple, but effective! Just a 4x4 post and a chicken wire wrap.

I don’t remember seeing this Variegated Daphniphyllum macropodum on my last visit! I would love to have one in my garden, but I’m always a little to slow to purchase when I hear of one available. This is a very sought after plant that is difficult to produce, so it’s not often seen for sale.

The birds and bees were very busy during our visit to the garden. It’s easy to see why!

Can we just talk about Epimedium for a second? I truly appreciate this almost effervescent-like ground cover. It has interesting texture, color and delicacy, blooms in the early springtime and is tough as nails! Typically a happy shade plant, I have seen it stubbornly cling to life in the blazing hot sun of a sidewalk strip.

I may be falling in love with these (new to me) plants. I need to do a little more research before I commit to adding to my garden, but they are on my list!

Carpinus fangiana with lovely long catkins:

And this one! Swoon!

Firmiana simplex:

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for August 2021

Tue, 03 Aug 2021 22:46:00 GMT

August in the Willamette Valley is normally warm and dry with few experiences of any weather drama at all. Who knows what this one will be like, since we have everything set up for fire events following our dry spring and horrific heatwave. We recommend using drip irrigation to help lower the amount of water usage and to keep the water at the root zone of the plants and not out in the air.

August Tips and Tricks:

Weeds: We should encounter far fewer weeds this month as the dryer weather disinclines them to sprout. Unless our weeds are literally setting seeds, we simply pull them up and lay the helpless little things out in the hot sun and they instantly turn into compost!
Mow regularly: We continue mowing at a preferred higher setting for the summer months, rather than setting it low - this keeps the lawn healthier. It helps to shade the roots of the grass to keep them cooler. This is especially important if your irrigation system is not turned on very much.
Water: Make sure to water those plants which need a drink! The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate so quickly or blow away in the breeze. Generally, irrigate at one inch a week for the lawn. (Use up to 2” if it has been really hot and dry). The plant beds will need about half that amount of water per week and we recommend a drip system. If you planted new plants this Spring, remember to augment their watering by hand, in addition to any irrigation. Irrigation systems are for maintaining established plantings and that is most likely not enough water to get the new plants rooted. You do not want to turn up the irrigation system as you may overwater all of the rest of your plants! Therefore, augment the plants which you recently planted until Fall.
Veggies: Monitor veggie garden irrigation closely so that crops do not dry out.
Cut Flowers: Bouquets in the house! This is a great month to walk through the garden in the cool morning air to pick whatever looks good to bring into the house, either foliage or flowers.
Fertilize: Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli. Harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Pest Control: Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables or Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a bacterial disease of the Caterpillars and won’t harm other creatures, including you.
Mulch: Use mulch to protect the soil and the plant’s roots from hot weather damage.
Arborvitae care: Watch for spider mite control on some ornamentals, particularly Arborvitae hedges - hose off their foliage, once a month, once a day, for three days in a row. Arborvitae hedges are the most susceptible to spider mite damage and as a result in a hot dry summer browning and/or death.
Fleas: August is often a good month to control outdoor fleas with spray if one has outdoor pets.

A Garden at Play

Thu, 01 Jul 2021 18:51:00 GMT

Sherman Library and Gardens

I had very low expectations when I started my tour of Sherman Library and Gardens in Costa Mesa California. I had been visiting family in southern California when my sister-in-law suggested stopping by the gardens which she remembered fondly from a 7th grade field trip. As I am always down to see a garden, I jumped in the car without a further thought; I tend to have a rather laissez-faire attitude toward sightseeing. What awaited me was a magical garden full of humor, beauty and detail. The Sherman Gardens is a quirky example of how living botanical art can mix with more conventional artforms, displaying many important design concepts in a very accessible way. I was thrilled to come across this treasure and knew immediately I wanted to write a blog post about it. Please forgive my hastily snapped photos! It is also important to note that in my enthusiasm for documentation, I ran out of phone battery before I could reach the end of the gardens. I suppose this means you will have to go and see the rest for yourself.

According to the Sherman Library and Gardens website , the gardens were founded in 1966 by Arnold Haskell who named them after his mentor, Moses Sherman. Haskell had purchased an office for himself and gradually bought up the block around him and began creating the Gardens which combined his love of plants and history about the Pacific southwest.

The Garden hosts a seasonal exhibit. In the past, these have included botanical sculptures, sandscapes, glass work and even a yarn bombing exhibit - I highly recommend looking up those pictures!

This summer, the exhibit is named the greenHOUSE - rooms of your typical home were recreated, surrounded by plants! This exhibit seemed especially fitting after a year when so many of us spent extra time indoors, reimagining our spaces.

A good designer incorporates all the senses into their design - Are fragrant plants near seating areas? Can fuzzy plants be easily reached? Are thorny branches far enough away from highly trafficked areas? Are herbs and veggies easily accessed? What does your client hear when the wind blows through the garden? Is there a water feature nearby filling the space with the sound of running water? It is essential to think through how your client is interacting with the nature around them and how to create a space that lures them out and draws them in. I was delighted by the sensory garden and slowly made my way past every pot, rubbing leaves, sticking my nose into things, giggling at different textures, chewing on leaves, squealing at the plants that respond to touch and generally oohing and aahing.

Another area that Sherman Gardens excelled was in the creation of microclimates. Some of these were fairly obvious, like their actual greenhouse where they had collections of tender tropical plants. Others were less obvious, like their desert rock garden or the boggy collection of carnivorous plants.

I spent extra time perusing the agave collection, Dale has trained me well.

Sherman Gardens turned out to be a highlight of my trip and a place that inspired me and forced me outside of my gardening box. It is well worth a stop if you are ever near Costa Mesa.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for July 2021

Thu, 01 Jul 2021 18:46:00 GMT

June was one of our driest and definitely the hottest Junes ever recorded. I have sun burns on many of my plants. Our Hydrangeas look the worst of all. Their normally beautiful blooms are shriveled and brown. July is traditionally our hottest and driest month of the year. It remains to be seen how July and the rest of this summer will play out. Will it be hot and dry, will we have worse fires than last year, or will we have some blessed rain and clouds this month?

A Note About the Heat:

You may have some sad and scorched plants from the heat wave earlier this week. If you can bare it, refrain from cutting off the blackened foliage as it is still giving the tender, green foliage underneath some protection. Water, water, water as your plants begin to recover.

July Tips and Tricks:

July is usually a month where we must irrigate liberally if the wish is to keep the grass from going dormant. Lawns, in an average July, need one inch of water per week. If we have a dry, hot wind, then 1.5 to 2 inches does the trick.
Prune any of your shrubs, if they need it, right after they have bloomed. However, this is only if it is actually needed! Don’t prune them just to prune!
Keep up weeding, it should be much easier now with the heat and the dry weather. One simply has to cut the roots off or lift the baby weeds and let them dry to death on the ground. They will simply disappear in the hot sun.
This is the month to fertilize our lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
The lawn height should be at the highest setting on the mower that you can tolerate. (A lot of people want to see lawns set at Golf Green elevation, about ¼” high.) However, this does not work on home lawns, as no homeowners that I know, can maintain their lawns to the degree that a golf course does!
Check for Root Weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas. They create nasty notches on the leaves. Use nematodes to kill the Weevil larvae in the ground or use sticky traps on the trunk to kill the adult Weevils.
Mulch, if you have not done so already, to conserve soil moisture using bark or other organic products such as compost or clippings.
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites), and wash them with water from a hose. Pick a day when you can drench them, once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this practice each month during the dry season. In other words, you are acting like a heavy summer rain! This disrupts their life cycle.
You may dig spring bulbs when tops have died down. (Divide and replant if overcrowded or store them in the garage if you have not decided where you want to plant them yet).
Stake tall growing perennials as needed. Lilies, Dahlias, and many tall daisies need this kind of care.
End of month: prune boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
Mound soil up around base of potatoes, gather and eat a few “new” potatoes from each hill.
Consider planting Mid-summer selections of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce and kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family and carrot family (including Dill, Zinnias, Marigolds and Jerusalem Artichokes)
Stake your tomatoes and watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves).
This is a good month to check those areas of your real estate which get little to NO water this time of the year and which maybe do not have plants or where plants just will not grow. Consider planning and then planting drought tolerant (Xerophytic) plants in those locations this fall when the rains begin!

Northern Tour

Tue, 08 Jun 2021 22:40:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series pt.2

In early May, Dale and I set out for our next blogging adventure. It was a lovely spring day and we decided to do a nursery tour of Highway 30. We started by heading just south of Scappoose to Joy Creek Nursery.

Lewisia and Antennaria

Joy Creek is a nursery that proves you can have your cake and eat it too. This nursery is filled with trusted, reliable garden staples as well as exiting new things to try out. This was very apparent in their beautiful show garden where you can find bodacious rhodies, sprawling boxwoods and ethereal clouds of Choisya occupying the same space as exotic plants. For the plant pictured below, we both had to squint and hem and haw while brainstorming what it could be, eventually realizing that it was a Vestia foetida! Oh my, I really want one now!

Joy Creek has a wide selection of Clematis for sale as well as a Clematis testing area in the far reaches of the display garden.

Throughout the nursery, you can find small rock gardens displayed. A good reminder that you don’t need a lot of space to create something beautiful! Click here to see a video of Anna Kullgren of Optic Verve Design on Garden Time explain how she creates these mini gardens.

After our leisurely stroll through Joy Creek, we decided to head up the road for a hike in some of our local wilderness. In the hills above Scappoose, there is a retreat center that has worked diligently to create and maintain a piece of wilderness with beautiful trails and a healthy forest understory. There is nothing quite so inspiring as seeing plants thriving in their native habitat.

We journeyed from this natural habitat haven to Cistus nursery, a place that tests the limits of what can be grown in Oregon. We love Cistus, it always bends the mind of what one can do in a garden.

The first stop is the Big Top, I could spend hours in here! You can find all kinds of hard-to-acquire plants, some of which are a little tender. After touring the retail area and the surrounding gardens, we asked for permission to head up to the fairly new rock garden that is part of Sean and Preston’s private garden.

For a rock garden lover, this is a treasure trove of ohhs and ahhs! We even saw a small Agave parviflora sending up a flower spike getting ready to bloom!

Very inspiring! A visit to Cistus always leaves me wondering what else I could try growing in my own garden!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for June 2021

Tue, 08 Jun 2021 22:37:00 GMT

This is the month that we Western Oregonians complete the Spring planting of our veggie and fruit beds. Summer technically starts the 20th of June this year. That day, the sun will be as close to vertical in the sky as it can get in our temperate climate. That means that the sunshine is the most effective this month, dousing the ground with warmth and feeding the plants. Remember that the sun is what enables your plants to be able to photosynthesize and make carbohydrates! Therefore, sunshine is their food, not fertilizer!

June Tips and Tricks:

Plant the warm season annuals. These include flowers and vegetables such as: Petunias, Impatiens, Eggplants, Tomatoes, Tomatillos, Golden Berries, Peppers, Corn, Basil, Cucumbers and more.
Fertilize your annuals every two weeks with a natural fertilizer. This will cause them to grow well and produce. Natural fertilizer is not derived from Petroleum but from manure, kelp, shells, blood, bone, rock, or feathers. Remember that too much nitrogen simply gives lots of leaves but not much fruit. For a Veggie bed, a ‘balanced’ fertilizer is best; that is one that has the 3 letters representing Nitrogen, Phosphorus and Potassium = N, P, K like 5-4-3 or 4-3-2. This is where the first number is the highest but not a lot higher than the other two.
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower at your favorite high setting for the rest of the summer until October. Keeping the grass longer during the hot months helps to shade the roots and keeps the grass greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is basically over, and there will soon be less weeds to pull because the warm rain is no longer with us. If you’re in a hurry, you can simply toss the weeds (the ones which are not going to seed) out in the sunny part of the bed, and they will dry up right there by the end of the day. Don’t do this on a rainy cloudy day because they just might strike root and grow again! Put the ones with seeds in the debris bin.
Water everything as needed. The standard rule of thumb for an average warm dry June week is: One inch per week at minimum for the lawn, and half an inch for the shrubs.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Try to use pet safe bait.
Prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they finish blooming if they need it.
Check the Rhodies and Azaleas for weevils. Nematodes or insect tape can be used to combat them. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look discolored. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called Green or Brown Lace Wings. One can purchase the eggs of these predators locally.
Dead head Rhodies. If you wish to make your Rhodies look neater and bloom more next year, now is time to dead head the seed stalks.
Check for Aphids and Cabbage worms on veggies or roses and, if needed, choose your method of action.
Continue to take care of coddling moths and scab on apples and pears . Check with the OSU Extension Service to see how often they need to be treated.
Thin out the excess little fruits on pear and apple trees . If you do not thin them, the fruits on the tree will become cramped and may become too heavy and break off whole branches!
Spray for fruit flies on cherries. Check with the OSU Extension Service for more information.

Dancing Oaks Nursery

Thu, 29 Apr 2021 23:09:00 GMT

Dale and Bek's Excellent Adventure Series pt.1

It was a temperamental Oregon spring day when we piled into the car and headed down to Dancing Oaks Nursery . It is a bit of a drive down to the Monmouth area, but between the scenic vistas and the treasure trove waiting for you at the end of the road, it is worth it.

Dancing Oaks is an eclectic gardener’s dream. There were several moments of, “Oh, I’ve been looking for that!” as we meandered through their greenhouses.

Can you tell we are excited?!?

So many carnivorous plants. This is not the best time to view them though, as most of these pitches are past their prime.

Inside Jurassic Park my glasses and camera immediately fogged up; the humidity is high to support the plants in this house. A plant I have never seen in person but swooned over for years, Sonchus Palmernis!

Would you believe me if I told you this is related to the Dandelion-Taraxacum officinale? Go ahead, look it up.

With the excitement of small children in a candy store, we continued our journey through the display gardens. There were several gasps as we "ooo-ed" and "aah-ed" at all the lovely plants. Some familiar faces such as Crown Imperial-Fritillaria imperialis.

We could hear a clan of hummingbirds swooping and in and around us through an array of Arctostaphylos and Ribes, both in full bloom. The humingbirds' contented buzzing and humming so intense that it sounded like a hive of bees.

There were several plants out in the garden that caught my designer eye. Dale spotted a patch of yuccas at the far end and made a bee line for them. As we drew closer, we found not only stunning yuccas, but also a beautiful collection of Agaves. At the beginning of my journey as a landscape designer, I always thought these plants were too deserty. But their curvy architecture and yearlong interest have won me over and I think when placed carefully in a lush Oregon landscape they create a beautiful paradoxical composition that draws the eye in.

This Juniperus rigida ‘Pendula’ captured my imagination. It reminded me of the mystical southeastern forests dripping in Spanish Moss or a wistful weeping willow, but instead it is an evergreen conifer with needles so soft you could pet it (a bit like you would pet a hedgehog, carefully, in one direction). I long to see it softening a corner or dripping out over the jagged boulders of a water feature.

One thing that can really make a garden stand apart is the small details. Dancing Oaks, among many things, specializes in bulbs and we had the pleasure of being there when the daffodils were in their full blooming glory. Some of them were so intricate and detailed I was forced to stop and admire them for several minutes.

Like many other nurseries, Dancing Oaks was hit hard by our February storm. You can still see the damage as you enter the property. Many hours of hard work have gone into cleaning up the display garden.

While we were there, the garden was still waking up, but still magical. We are excited to go back!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for May 2021

Thu, 29 Apr 2021 23:09:00 GMT

At the time that I am writing this, it has been very dry all month. I have already turned on the irrigation system at ThornHurst! We can only hope that we will have at least a couple of good rains in May and June. July through October is not far away and often we have no significant precipitation during those four months.

May Tips and Tricks:

May is considered the month to purchase your annuals to plant outside in your pots or flower beds. Just remember that it is not time yet to plant the ones that like heat, such as tomatoes and basil. The reasoning is that normally by this time, the soil has not warmed up enough and the nights are still cool. So, if one plants them, they will most likely simply sit & pout, rot or drown if it rains or especially if you irrigate too much.
Lawn and beds: It is time to begin moderate watering if the rain has not been enough. In April, most people turned on their irrigation systems, (if they had them) because it was so dry. It is time now to soak once every week, or more often if things turn warmer and drier.
Fertilize lawn with a natural fertilizer (non-petrochemical). Do this just before you run the irrigation or before it rains so that it will go down to the roots and not burn your lawn.
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower one setting higher than you set it in April.
If you have found that you need to thatch and renovate your lawn yearly to get the water to penetrate during the dry months, we have a recommendation. We have found that if we use totally natural fertilizer, (no petroleum derivatives), we have yet needed to take this step. We believe that it is because the earthworms take care of the dead grass/stems called thatch and keep our ground free draining. Using petrochemicals burns their skins or kills them outright and makes them leave the lawn!
Weed now! If you do a minimum weeding, always pull up the ones that are going to seed first and then get what you can of the others. The others can often wait till another day, if you do not have the time today. 5 minute weeding can be critical!
Begin root weevil control. You may use nematodes for the beetle larvae. They come in a liquid which is kept in the refrigerator at your nursery, as they are alive. Another alternative for adults is to sprinkle DE (diatomaceous earth) on the ground surface around the plants. A final way to get to the adults is to use sticky traps on the trunks of the plants to trap them. They cannot fly and them must walk up the trunk to get to the tender leaves. The sticky traps work well, and you will be able to see the results.
Consider planting chrysanthemums now for a burst of fall color that will return as a surprise every year. They like full sun and good drainage, do not plant them where water drains to them.
Control aphids by washing the foliage with soap suds, removing by hand, or by promoting natural predators, such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of tiny, shiny, black beetles on cabbage, and potatoes indicate flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (bacillus Thuringensis) or soapy water. Pick them off if you can see them, or all the above.
Control slugs with bait, salt or by smashing. There is always the ‘Beer in the bowl’ method where one gets them soused, and they drown in their own drink!
Prune plants which really need it, but, after they flower!
Later in May or the first week of June, plant the warm season vegetables, these are: tomatoes, peppers, eggplants, snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer and winter squash and onions.
Spray fruit, nut and shade trees for tent caterpillars, if present.

Plant Geek Garden Clean-up Crew

Thu, 01 Apr 2021 17:25:00 GMT

Snow accumulation at my home in Vancouver, WA

February's snow and ice storm got pretty bad. The ice accumulation varied a great deal across town. In Vancouver, Washington, where I live, we had very little to no ice; instead, we had 15 inches of snow. I was very lucky; a thick layer of fluffy snow provided a great deal of insulation to my tender plants. Other areas, though, were not so fortunate. Holed up in my snow laden home, I watched social media as friends across the Portland area reported that they had ice accumulating and large branches coming down in their gardens. Power would be out for days, and just south of Portland got hit so much worse.

Our friend Pat at Secret Garden Growers posted some worrisome updates. Trees were falling all around her home and nursery. Power lines were down, the poles splintered in the road. Fortunately, she had a generator to run the pumps for the well and a friend brought firewood out for heat. Soon after losing power, she wasn’t able to send updates for several days. It quickly became apparent that it was going to be a massive effort to get the storm damage cleaned up, and opening day for the nursery was fast approaching.

Kathy, a fellow plant geek, suggested a work party to help out Secret Garden Growers, and that got me pretty darn excited. Pat agreed and decided on a date, and soon a hoard of plant geeks arrived to help as much as we could. Some of us primped and weeded plants in the nursery, while others helped trim back perennials in the display gardens. It felt like a party! Everyone was so happy to be there helping. Every single person had a big smile, and you could feel the love! I'm so proud of the plant geek community!

Secret Garden Growers is getting ready to open for the season! I highly recommend you take a trip over to see what special plants she has. I love this nursery so much! If you want to learn more about Secret Garden Growers, check out this blog post.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for April 2021

Thu, 01 Apr 2021 17:25:00 GMT

We have all experienced our share of ice and snow this winter along with the ensuing damage. I am hoping for a mix of rain and sunshine during April to keep the ground moistened but at the same time warming up enough to induce perennials to pop out of the ground, and bushes to push green shoots from their stems!

Here are our tips and tricks for April:

Bait for slugs and snails: If you do not like to purchase bait, remember there are other options. One option is beer! It can act as bait, placed in a shallow bowl. Replace it after a rain or when it fills up with dead slug bodies. Cheap beer works, Slugs seem to be indiscriminate in this regard!
Deer and Bunnies: If you live near where these creatures live, remember to take measures! One trick that I have used is Irish Spring soap hung around the bushes. The deer do not like the smell. There are also products that can be sprayed on the plants that deter both deer and bunnies.
Weed regularly: It has been cool enough and moist enough that the weeds are still small, and most of them are not mature enough to set seed. Pull them out NOW! Preventing weeds from setting seeds is the very best way to cut down on the number of weeds in your garden for the future
Mow weekly: If you mow this month for the very first time, you should set it at the very lowest setting to wake up the grass! This might take two or three cuts to not clog your mower and to get the lawn cut correctly. The first mow is the year’s most difficult cut, if you mow weekly the rest of the year! After the first cut set your mower higher.
Spring flowering bulb clean-up: Leave the foliage on spring flowering bulbs only cut off the seedpods after the blooms are finished. The foliage needs to remain in place to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms. I recommend waiting to cut the foliage until it is an ugly yellow brown.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees if they need it: If they do need it, wait until immediately after the blossoms have faded to get the pruners out.
Plant summer blooming bulbs: Planting bulbs like gladiolas and dahlias now will extend their summer bloom.
Start on veggie garden: It is time to prepare the veggie garden for spring planting, if you have not already done so.
Purchase and plant starts: Now is the time to get the following starts in the ground if you have not already done so: Rhubarb, Potatoes and Asparagus. Ours were planted last month. All three of these are perennial plants in our climate.
Now is the right time to plant these veggies: Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Chives, Endive, Kohlrabi, Leeks, and Lettuce, Onion sets, Parsnips, Radishes and Turnips.
Check berries for spittlebugs and aphids: If you find some, wash the berries off with water or soap and water. If you have not pruned them for this year’s growth, do it now.
Treat pear and apple scab: If you have problems with pear and apple scab, you may spray lime or sulfur treatments. Also, there is very little time left to thin branches in your fruit trees, but be careful if you do, as you may knock off new buds in the process, which contain your future fruit!
Treat diseased roses: The natural way to help control rose diseases is to remove all infected leaves such as black spot and mildew by cutting them off and throwing them in the garbage. Remember to prune for air circulation to also help prevent black spot and mildew.
Finish cleaning up dormant perennials: If there are ANY dormant Perennial tops left, NOW is the time to cut them down to allow the new spring growth. Do this before the new leaves begin popping out of the ground, or you will have to spend more time selectively pruning each individual dead stalk to prevent damaging the new spring growth!
Shear sword ferns: If you did not shear your sword ferns in March, you have very little time left to cut them down to 2” before they unfurl their new fronds!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for March 2021

Tue, 02 Mar 2021 19:01:00 GMT

Spring will arrive this month! On the 20th of this month Spring will officially arrive, really! Our Oregon Chorus frogs are very active forming a symphony for our neighborhood. They sing loudest at night, a relaxing & soothing sound to us. Despite the rains and clouds, the crocuses and daffodils are popping up with new green leaves emerging. The robins have set up their territories and are loudly proclaiming their kingdoms at dawn.

Here are our tips and tricks for March:

Finish off any of your last year’s perennial pruning that you did not get to yet. You want to do this before the plants begin to sprout.
Continue weeding to prevent weeds from going to seed! Seriously, If you weed now, summer weeding will be a breeze! (And, if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time).
Continue baiting for slugs.
This is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it before they sprout. If a plant is starting to sprout, it might be best to leave it and wait for next fall to move it.
If they need it, prune your spring-flowering shrubs after the blossoms fade.
Trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished. This keeps them nice and tight and full.
Cut off all Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to open all their new fronds. This practice is for ferns in visible areas where they will be seen from a path or window. Obviously, if you own a forest section, you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods this way. No one does it out in the native forest!
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas with compost or, only if necessary, an acid-type fertilizer (an indicator is that the leaves are yellow).
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that need mulch before the new plants come up.
Lawn-mowing begins; set blade ¾”-1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses. In other words, set it as low as you can, without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn after you do this, and it might take three tries to get it to the level that you want. The grass will be wet and green, and you do not want to clog up your lawn mower!
First application of lawn fertilizer for 2021 after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical), or, something like 16-5-5.
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost (or, 10-10-10).
Prune out dead wood on Raspberries, Blueberries and Gooseberries to keep them from getting too full. Then, lightly prune to keep them in bounds. Spread wood shavings as needed, as well as manure/compost.
Now is the best time to purchase perennial plants in the nurseries! Many of the plants are in 4” size and just ready to grow! 4” is less expensive than #1 containers! As the weather warms, the plants will grow out of the 4” pots and the nurseries must pot them up into #1’s or number #2’s and of course, cause the price to increase.

Design: Paper First, Backhoe Second

Tue, 02 Mar 2021 19:00:00 GMT

Leaving the office to meet a potential client for the first time has become a happy moment for me. I arrive eager to hear their needs and help them discover possible solutions. Sadly, I often find that the person/persons have already started a project, but did not have a clear idea of what they were doing. Often when I arrive, I find partially installed patios, walkways, drainage systems or numerous plants sitting in pots/partially planted.

Sometimes I find a couple has not been able to agree on what they are doing because they had not taken the time to dialog, discuss, and draw out a clear vision of what they would like to experience regarding their real estate. It has happened numerous times that I have been called in because one person in the household has maimed, or at the extreme, cut down a tree which should have been left alone or, at most, pruned correctly.

I have been called when a drainage system was being installed which caused more water damage because it pointed the water to their crawl space.

I have been called in when Blackberries, Bamboo or other invasive pests have become a problem. Often, the client cannot imagine their world without the plant and they struggle over how they should go about the task of removal. I have been called when several plants had been purchased, some planted, but one of the clients had either disliked them or the location in which they were planted.

It is important to have a vision of how the inhabitants of a space would like to have it fit into their lives, over time.

Here are some examples of experiences clients are looking for from their landscapes:

A scene that makes them feel happy when they drive up to the garage.
A space for them to share a meal with family or friends that is large enough for their needs and includes the ambiance level that they want to see, smell and hear.
A landscape that screens more utilitarian areas such as garbage/recycle bins, kayaks, outdoor furniture or garden tools.
Spaces intentionally created on the outside that are aesthetically pleasing looking from the inside out.
A landscape that beckons the client to retreat there, whether that is with a swing seat for grandkids, a grill for cooking or a meditating cushion by a water feature.

As winter comes to an end and we ready ourselves for the action of spring, now is a good time to ponder the process and dialog through your dreams of what you want your real estate to eventually do for you.

We say:

Paper First: Get your plans prepared and set, in the order and way that BOTH partners want to have things done.
Backhoe Second: You will both then be ready to bring in the tools to make the changes that you want to have happen, as you have the time and the money to do them!

The Portland Japanese Garden

Tue, 02 Feb 2021 01:31:00 GMT

This past December, a family member was visiting from out of town, and we wanted to find a safe way to visit, so we all decided on a distanced stroll through the Portland Japanese Garden. Tickets were purchased in advance, and since entries to the garden are timed, we had adequate room to wander and chat. It was a lovely visit, and in this strange time we live in, we were all very thankful to see each other and visit this beautiful garden.

The sound of the water is inviting. Calling each visitor to explore the garden.

A bit of history: In 1958, when Portland became a  sister city  of  Sapporo ,  Japan the business community and public officials in Portland became inspired to create a Japanese garden in Portland to commemorate the relationship. This was part of a larger movement across the United States that saw the establishment of many Japanese gardens in an effort to bring healing and understanding between the two nations in the aftermath of World War II. Four years later in June of 1962, the Portland city council created a commission dedicated to the creation of the gardens. This commission decided the garden was to be established in Washington Park. The space designated for the gardens sits on a forested hillside in Washington Park and the land had been home to the Portland zoo until 1959.

Professor  Takuma Tono  of the  Tokyo University of Agriculture was commissioned to design the gardens. The garden was dedicated, and design began in 1963; the garden opened to the public in 1967.

A study conducted by the  Journal of Japanese Gardening in 2013 , ranked the Portland Japanese garden as the finest public Japanese garden in North America out of more than 300 such gardens surveyed by Japanese garden experts.  The former Japanese ambassador to the U.S., Nobuo Matsunaga, said in 1988 that the garden was “the most beautiful and authentic Japanese garden in the world outside Japan.

Source: Portland Japanese Garden Website

Wikepedia

A very nice use of fascine

As you walk up the trail to enter the garden you can see some expert use of fascine to ensure nothing comes down the slope. This practice allows the plantings on the slope to settle in. You may remember my use of fascine in my previous blog post, “Taming a Slope” . Well, this looks so much better than mine, but it will serve the same purpose. Eventually it will rot, and the plants will do their job to retain the soil.

Camellias in bloom

I encourage you to visit this time of year; as there is always something to see. There were Camellias in bloom when we visited, and nice sized flower buds were forming on the Edgeworthia. The plants are so delicately pruned and shaped; it is like a painting as you turn every corner. Water droplets sparkle as they hang from the leaves and stems of plants. It truly is magical.

During this tumultuous time, when we are susceptible to feeling isolated and divided it is good to visit this place that was designed and created as a place of peace and healing. Whether to find some moments of quiet serenity alone or to safely see a loved one, this place meets the moment we are in with a generous beauty and spaciousness.

Enjoy!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for February 2021

Tue, 02 Feb 2021 01:31:00 GMT

January is gone already and here we are into February. I do not know about you, but each month that we make it through, I feel successful!

February is a wonderful month for gardening. We still have rain of course, but it’s a bit of a warmer rain, correct? The following list is a good gardening guide for your outdoor plans:

It is time to begin baiting for slugs; place the bait near things that they love to munch on. Beer in a pan works!
Weed. Now is the time when they are small, weak, and helpless. Take one section of your yard per weekend and work all the way around the yard in a month. It will save you hours of work later on in the hot weather.
It is an excellent time to transplant if you need to move something.
Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs, bare root (less expensive) or container.
Plant perennials and perennial herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage, and thyme (Remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
Prune fruit trees as needed. Here is an extremely helpful tutorial from OSU.
Prune and train grapes.
Prune your roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the best place to purchase self-root roses.
Prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, and/or flowering cherries, so you can bring them inside to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, ie. butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis, and hydrangea. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs now such as azaleas and Rhodies! You will cut off the bloom buds.
Prune back Fuchsias, and other perennials that have not been pruned back, to about four inches. This year has been cold enough so you may wonder whether the Fuchsias have really died to the ground. So, unless you just can’t handle the bare sticks, wait till you see how far up the little green buds are coming out and trim them down to that mark. This Spring it will probably be from the ground and not from the stems at all.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick. Do this every two years. Compost mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do this in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season and in the rainy season it prevents erosion.

For adventuresome gardeners:

Make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers.
Prepare soil for growing pots and flats of seedlings.
Plant seed flats for crops in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli, and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors
Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae.
Time for the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.

A Winter Message

Thu, 21 Jan 2021 16:37:00 GMT

I’m currently sitting at the kitchen counter, in my sweater blanket, drinking coffee at 11:00am. It is raining so hard that puddles have collected on our paths, threatening to disturb my mental health. I remember how hard my husband and I worked to dig and create good drainage, specifically a French drain that runs along the paths. I say a tiny prayer, ‘Be strong, little French drain. Be STRONG.’ The lights flicker.

I am a native Oregonian. The rain makes me happy and gives me cozy feelings. I know that without these months, our area would not be the green, lush, beautiful slice of heaven that it is. I also know that winter is a time for our land to rest and so I try to take that as a cue. Rest should be a part of our life. Without rest, the work we have done during the Springs and Summers will not have time to get established in our hearts, minds, souls and soil. The metaphors of our Life and the life of our mother earth are endless. We are fortunate here to have 4 distinct seasons, each with their own message. Winter’s message is rest.

Yet, there is still work to do in the winter. At home, I will cut back perennials, prune, pull weeds when the temperatures don’t get low enough to kill those pesky pop-its and, of course, begin the plans for our vegetable garden. There is always work to do and the temptation to get to the next project is real. Projects, no matter how big or small, tend to have nagging voices.

Our beautiful slice of the world has a climate that encourages work to continue even through the winter, especially if the temperatures are mild. The fact that my job as a designer is mostly inside gives me a twinge of guilt. I look outside as it keeps raining hard and think about our Winterbloom install and maintenance crews slogging away. The crews don’t stop unless a hard freeze makes it too difficult to dig in the soil or icy roads become treacherous. Business must go on and us landscapers see the value in getting plants in the ground now while the soil is soft and the rain waters the new baby plants. Which then reverses the idea... to rest and enjoy the landscape in the summer. Confusing!! Pacific northwest landscape installation and design companies are CONSTANTLY working. All. Year. Long. There’s also that capitalist thing going on too, which is always telling us to keep working, keep growing, keep making money and keep buying!

I’m conflicted. If winter is the time for our land to rest, I see how my Creator would use that as a cue for me in my own life. We live in a world that says we must keep working, cultivating, and making a profit, so how do we act on this cue? The spirit of the law would tell me it is more about listening, slowing down and waiting a moment before tackling the next project. Lightbulb moment. Winter is not the season for rest. It is a reminder to rest. Rest must be part of our life cycle, just as it is in the season cycle. The challenge for us, as humans, is to ensure that it happens.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for January 2021

Thu, 21 Jan 2021 16:33:00 GMT

We have arrived in 2021, FINALLY! What a year this has been for all of us!

Today is a moist and cool day, but we all know that our frostiest month is traditionally January. To date, we have not had a “hard or killing frost,” which is where the temp gets at or below 28 degrees. We are off to a great start in 2021, with ample snow in the mountains and ample storage to supply our summer irrigation needs!

Here are some tips and tricks to feel like one has accomplished something in your garden in January:

This is a great time to transplant or to plant anything that is hardy. Of course, this should only be done when the temperature is above freezing. Generally, this is not a problem because the average human is not interested in transplanting or planting unless the ground is soft and moist .
One can really plant peas seeds now! There are sweet peas (grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or eating peas. Consider if you have a spot in the garden where the ground is prepared. If you procrastinate and wait for warm weather to plant peas, their insect and fungus enemies will be ready to jump on them. If you plant them now, or next month, their enemies are asleep! Plant peas where the soil is well drained and workable. Peas are easy to grow from seeds.

Peas are available as:

Shelled peas - This is the one that you eat only the pea itself
Snap peas - This is the one that you have a full crisp thick pod with peas inside which is all sweet and one can easily eat pod and all, fresh. It can be used as a snack, cooked or in salads.
Snow peas - This is the one that is normally used for Asian stir-fry dishes. It is more of a rubbery pod, which is picked early, before it fills out with the peas.

It is still a good time to scatter most wildflower seed such as California Poppy seeds.
However, it is still too early to start most other seeds for spring vegetable or annual flower plants in the garden or in a cold frame for transplants.
It is very important to water landscape plants underneath wide eaves and other spots protected from rain, once a month. Monitor them until the irrigation is turned on. Outside cats can begin using these dry places for their litter box and these areas can become smelly and literally burn the plants growing there.
Moss appearing in your lawn usually means there is too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year to decide what to do. Your options are twofold: get rid of the shade or shrink the lawn so that there is less of it in the shade. Shade is an enemy of grass and a friend of moss. Moss can quickly out compete your lawn if half of it is covered in shade. Moss killer is easily applied however, and if one uses Iron oxide, then it is not poisonous. If your trees are getting too big and shading the lawn, then the first option might be to either remove the most shaded part of the lawn or remove some of the branches or a whole tree to get your lawn performing like you want!
For indoor winter color, consider gathering branches of budding quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries and bring them inside. Take care to first mash the bottom of the stems before placing them into a large water-filled vase. The warmth of the house will force early blooming on the stems for beautiful bouquets.
Monitor houseplants for correct watering and feeding; guard against insect infestations, clean dust from leaves. Use a low-level fertilizer like “Oxygen Plus.” Make sure to NOT overwater this time of the year - it is very easy to do.
It is time to plan out and commence with your winter pruning! Click here (http://winterbloominc.com/?s=pruning) to see our guide!

Pacific Connections Garden - Washington Arboretum

Mon, 30 Nov 2020 18:23:00 GMT

I had the opportunity to visit the Pacific Connections Garden in the Washington Arboretum in October. I had intended to visit another garden on my trip but after receiving a message from my friend and fellow garden blogger Loree Bohl of the Danger Garden to visit this garden, I made an impromptu change to my itinerary to check it out.

Walking the large paths, this was my first sighting of New Zealand plants

The Pacific Connections Garden is at the south end of the Washington Arboretum. It has been a very large project that has been years in the making. The garden utilizes plants from 5 regions along the Pacific Rim with similar climates.

Cascadia (the Siskiyous, Oregon)
Chile (Valdivia region)
China (Mount Emei, Sichuan)
Australia (New South Wales mountain region)
New Zealand (South Island mountain region)

I didn’t have time to visit each of the gardens, which adds to the ongoing list of reasons to go back. I did take a walk-through Cascadia, which beautifully showcased Ceonothus, large Thuja plicata and many other plants you would find in the Siskiyou Mountains, but I couldn’t stop thinking about the New Zealand Forest.

A planting of Pittosporum, Melicyctus and Nothofagus was a great intro into the New Zealand Garden

The New Zealand portion of the garden is 2.5 acres of switchback garden paths that lead you through 7 distinct vegetation zones. Swales of boulders ensure that drainage issues have been addressed while adding structure to the garden. Whenever possible, the plants that were used in the Pacific Connections Garden were propagated by wild seed collected during expeditions of the sites they wanted to mimic.

Silver Beech-Nothafagus menziesii trees dot the garden

Beautifully placed, large boulders used in the drainage swales with a backdrop of Melicytus, Carex and Carokia

Melicytus alpinus quickly became a new plant crush for me. It is however a plant that I will admire here, and not in my own garden after hearing reports of its potential invasiveness.

Leptospermum can be seen in the gardens borders and I lucked out to be there while they were in bloom.

Walking down the switchback path we came to another panting zone with tall Phormium tenax, Hebe, Astelia nivicola, Carokia and Cordyline australis amongst other plants.

Cordyline Australis

This portion of the park was the first new major installation in 50 years. With plans starting in 2001, it was not until 2013 that this portion of the garden was completed. It will be interesting to see this garden mature and I for one, know I will be back to explore more of it.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for December 2020

Mon, 30 Nov 2020 18:21:00 GMT

HAPPY HOLIDAYS!

We hope that you are experiencing a special holiday season with family and friends and that, despite Covid-19, you were able to experience gratefulness in some way this Thanksgiving! Since this holiday season all of us have spent a LOT of time inside, here is a task list which will get you moving and doing in December, OUTSIDE!

Tips and Tricks:

Transplant just about anything unless the ground is frozen.
Plant any hardy trees, shrubs and perennials unless the ground is frozen.
Protect any new bigger plants from the wind with staking, guy wires, windbreaks or site selection.
Poinsettia care: protect from cold, place where it will receive some sunlight. Don’t let the leaves touch cold windows, fertilize every three weeks and water just enough to keep moist.
Cut and dip Holly for holiday use. Holly Dip is available at your local nursery. If you dip the cut tips of the branches, then the berries and leaves will not wither or fall off during the holidays.
Continually rake leaves off the lawn and hard surfaces (leaves may be left in the beds for an inexpensive mulch which feeds the soil).
Dedicate an hour or two to your yard, start by removing any ugly stalks of perennial flowers; hoe or pull winter weeds, particularly in the parts of the yard which are viewed by the public. If you do not like fall leaves as mulch and/or your flowerbeds are bare, spread some bark or garden mulch.
After the holidays, you may begin working on seriously cutting back all the dormant perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard. Remember to pace yourself! Enjoy the freshly washed air, the pungent crisp smells, the bird activities and calls!
Monitor your houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much less in winter than the rest of the year. DO NOT overwater or things will rot and die.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for November 2020

Thu, 29 Oct 2020 17:19:00 GMT

Despite the chilly mornings and dry sunny days, which we have had, we all know that the rains will return with a vengeance this month! Here are some tips and tricks to help all of us get through November in fine order!

Tips and Tricks:

Look for any bare ground, make sure it is free of weeds and cover it with an organic mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). The mulch insulates your plants from the potential cold to come, prevents erosion and as it begins to decompose the nutrients feeds the soil fauna and flora which in turn feeds plant’s roots. Some plants, such as Fuchsias, Dahlias and Cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base just to stave off the cold. Remember that the same mulch is equally beneficial in the summer when it helps retain moisture and cool the plants.
Provide winter protection to built-in sprinkler systems by #1. turning off the automatic controller and then #2. turning off the water to the system at the street or at the backflow prevention device. #3. If your system has a drain, remember to drain it!
Prune tall roses back about 1/3 in height to prevent winter wind damage.
If moss is appearing in your lawn it may be telling you that you have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility or soil compaction or all the above. Use a lawn moss killer if you want to keep the grass looking thick and lush. Use the rainy season to consider shrinking the size of your lawn next to the trees or structures which may be causing too much shade.
Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean and oil tools and equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib. In really cold weather, if they have not been turned off and drained properly, they could burst.
Now is the best time to lime your lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet.
Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer, if you did not do it last month.
Purchase Paperwhite Narcissus for the holidays for indoor bloom forcing. They will bloom in approximately 5 weeks from the time that you start them in an indoor container.
This is an ideal time to plant new landscape trees and shrubs or to transplant them.
Prune the plants which bloomed in late summer and October.
There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but don’t delay.
Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during the heavy rains; drywells/French drains and ditches are possible solutions.
You may lightly fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas with yellow leaves now for better green-up in the spring. Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. Make sure the soil is moist when you fertilize and do not overdo! They normally prefer just leaves and mulch for their fertilizer.
Always remove leaves off the lawn, as soon as you can. Leaves left on lawns can quickly damage the grass. If the leaves are quickly moved into the beds, they will act like a quality free mulch and they will NOT hurt the plants.

Advanced Gardening tips:

Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in dark area like garage.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around base of fruit trees. Use other leaves or bark instead.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall).
This is a good time to cut and root Rhododendrons and Camellias; root Begonias from leaf cuttings.
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden area. A three to four-inch layer of raked leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost.
If you have a hedge of Arborvitae consider tying up the limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives or even flowers for the dark rainy season.

Taming A Slope

Thu, 29 Oct 2020 16:56:00 GMT

What have I gotten myself into?!

I would describe our garden as a collector's garden. I’m a plant geek and often can’t help myself when I fall in love with a plant so in it goes. It’s also garden created for entertaining in and visiting with guests. With three patios crammed into a tightly planted garden, it's starting to feel like the space has different rooms. I've put a lot of work into it, but there has been one task I've been wanting to conquer, the Ivy-covered slope.

The slope is steep and earlier this year we removed 10 Acer macrophylums, and a large, over 40-year-old Corylus that was half dead from Eastern Filbert Blight. The Ivy covering the slope had done an excellent job stabilizing the soil for over 40 years. It also helped keep most of the other weeds at bay, so I needed a plan.

Forty years of weed seed is hiding under all this Ivy; imagine what will happen when all this seed gets exposed to light! Getting plants established will be critical for multiple reasons. Now, how would I slow water down to help prevent erosion and allow plants to take root? There are many different strategies, but my friend Vanessa had mentioned a technique called Fascine she had used on her Ravine Project.

I didn’t want to get ahead of myself, so I started working on both sides of the slope, leaving the center for next year.

My plan would incorporate the use of Jute fabric. Jute fabric helps with erosion control, it will decompose over time but last long enough for plants to establish.

Fascine Installation

There are many uses for Fascine , the primary function is mostly the same, to slow the movement of water. I had seen fascine used a lot to stabilize slopes and riverbanks and never knew it had a name. For riverbanks and some steep slope management the use of live cuttings is incorporated, using them as stakes to stabilize the structure, the live cuttings of small trees that root very easily help anchor them into the soil once the roots begin to establish.

For my project, I will use 4’ tree stakes pounded into the slope roughly 6’ apart. I’ll stack larger branches behind the stakes and backfill with soil over the top of my Jute fabric. The fabric and the fascine will help stabilize the soil and help secure the plants I plan to use. I'll incorporate, along with other plants, small Box Honeysuckle-Lonicera nitida cuttings. Box Honeysuckle is very drought tolerant. In fact, a few years ago, in the heat of summer, I dug up a large Lonicera nitida 'Lemon Beauty' and moved it to the front garden, near the street on the hot, West side of the garden, forgetting to plant it, and it rooted right into the ground and never flinched. Five years later (I know, no need to shame me, I can do that myself), it is looking great.

With the help of Greg Shepherd and Paul Bonine of Xera Plants I came up with a plant list that I think will work great. I’ll be using Ceonothus, Arctostaphylos, Cistus, Mahonia, Leptosperma, Coprosma and Fragaria chiloense ‘Aulon’

Fragaria Chiloense - Pacific Coast Strawberry forms a dense mat of evergreen foliage and will become a formidable groundcover

The top of one section of the slope could be mulched to help suppress weeds. After the mulch was in place, I top dressed the mulch with gravel so I could over seed with Poppy seeds.

Now this is the steep side. I will be installing two levels of fascine on this side. At the top of this portion of the slope is the neighbor’s fence (UGLY FENCE), which doesn’t give me any room to plant any screening plants. The fascine at the top of the slope will help me get some larger growing Ceanothus established up there as well as stabilize the soil.

When choosing plants for a project like this, always try to source very small plants to minimize soil disturbance.

And this is where I’m going to leave it for the season.

Here's a short video clip of the whole process. Thanks!

Making Your Landscape More Fire Resistant

Thu, 01 Oct 2020 22:32:00 GMT

We have just experienced one of our worst fire seasons here in Western Oregon. Many members of our community were hit terribly by this experience having to suddenly evacuate their homes, returning to destroyed property and in some cases losing a loved one. Those of us who were less effected still had to cope with the days of intense smoke which kept us indoors.

The question has been asked, are there things that we can do to our landscapes to help make our homes, wherever it is located, more fire resistant? Yes, indeed there are!

In Rural settings: It is important to think about what makes a fire, which is raging toward your house from the forest or coming across the neighbor’s wheat field, decide to stop or at least slow down and give you a chance to put it out.

Green plants: Keep a green low buffer between you and the neighbors or the field or forest. That slows down a fire. A large green lawn between you and the combustibles is a very good deterrent. Green shrubs and trees which are well hydrated also do not burn quickly. However, NO conifers are recommended.
Bark mulch VS Wood chips: If you have a bare soil area rather than lawn, around your house, do not cover it with bark mulches. Instead, use wood chip mulches (these are most easily gotten from Arborist chipping work). The wood chip mulch looks a bit different than the normal bark mulch. The wood chips are less expensive. Bark mulches that are normally what people use, and the natural bark of pine or fir these products have oils and waxes in them that burn quickly and prevent them from soaking up water. Wood chips from a chipper hold a great deal more water initially and they soak it up quickly if it is watered to prevent the spread of a fire. This makes wood chips much slower to ignite than bark.
Rock chips/gravel: These are also a viable option for open areas and do not burn.
No Rubber chips: Some people use these in landscapes, they can ignite quickly and burn with a terrific amount of smoke and off gassing. These are only recommended for children’s play areas.
Create Zones: Though more of a financial investment one can create zones with stone walls, or with patios and paths of crushed gravel or other non-burnable material. These are most helpful if they are installed closer to the house.

In Suburban settings: There are many different zones already established in a more suburban setting, as streets divide up yards and create barriers. You can follow the same recommendations as the rural areas on a smaller scale. There are no ‘Fire-Proof’ plants. However, using any high moisture plants which grow close to the ground and which are irrigated is the closest to being fire-proof! Larger shrubs and trees such as roses, currants cotoneaster and most deciduous and evergreen species of broadleaf trees and shrubs are more fire-resistant when irrigated. . Avoid more flammable plants and materials like conifers and rubber chips.

A Note About Conifers: While confiers are a beautiful and diverse category of plants they are unfortunately rather flammable. It is important to not plant them right next to your house.

Fire Retardant plants would be best used where/when irrigation is not an option. They can all be mulched with wood chips. Pictured below are some more common fire-retardant plants.

In summary, the larger the size of property owned, the more important it is to keep a buffer area around your house to prevent ignition. If that cannot be managed, create open spaces around the house with wood chips and gravel, (such as patios). Where there is brown dry grass around the house, it should be cut low. If you are using drought tolerant fire-Retardant plants, they should be surrounded by wood chips or gravel. Keeping live Coniferous trees/shrubs and needles, away from the immediate area around your house is the ultimately one of the best fire resistant protections of all.

Source: Linda Chalker-Scott Dr. Linda Chalker-Scott has a Ph.D. in Horticulture from Oregon State University and is an ISA certified arborist and an ASCA consulting arborist.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for October 2020

Thu, 01 Oct 2020 22:32:00 GMT

This continues to be a year of challenges, does it not? We were dealing with Covid-19 and having a nice warm summer when the East wind blew with a vengeance and fires began popping up and burning! We are so grateful the smoke has cleared and the rain has come. We look forward to the cold, wet Fall ahead, it appears leaf season has come early this year due to the strange weather conditions of the past month. As we begin to unpack our cold weather sweaters, pull out our heavy blankets and retrieve our rainboots from the recesses of a dark closet, here are some tips for the garden.

Tips and Tricks:

This is a great month to begin digging up and transplanting shrubs.
The end of October is normally the time that we stop mowing, because, soon after, it becomes cool enough that the lawns stop growing. Occasionally we have a fall when the lawn needs a mow or two in November. Be watching.
This is a wonderful time of the year to plant new plants!
Plant bulbs now for spring show! The nurseries have lots of them.
This is a great time of year to bait for slugs during rainy periods. This will keep them from making more babies for spring.
As the leaves begin to fall, keep your leaves raked off the lawn to prevent smothering/damaging the grass.
Rake and keep Fall leaves for composting in the beds as free mulch. However, destroy any disease-infested leaves on apple, cherry or roses.
Make sure to mulch tender plants: fuchsias, cannas, dahlias, and callas, this protects them during the Winter cold.
Spread bark mulch now over any bare areas that may be exposed this winter. This prevents erosion and keep weeds from growing.

For the More Serious Gardeners Among Us:

Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.
Pick green tomatoes anyway and ripen indoors if frost threatens.
Pull and dry onions for storage. Keep at 32-35 degrees f, in a dry area.
Harvest sunflower heads; use for birdseed or roast for crunchy snack food.
Dig and store potatoes; keep in darkness with moderate humidity at around 40 degrees fahrenheit.
Harvest squash and pumpkins; keep in dry area at 55-60 degrees f.
Harvest and immediately dry filberts & walnuts; dry at 95-100 degrees f.
Harvest and store apples; keep at about 40 degrees f moderate humidity.
Harvest the saffron from your saffron crocuses! You must be quick because the rain spoils them.
Dig and store live geraniums and tuberous begonias somewhere that they will not get below 32 degrees. They can stay in a garage if it does not freeze in there. I have set mine near the garage window successfully.
Propagate the following flowers by stem-cuttings: chrysanthemums, fuchsias, and geraniums and keep them where they will receive light but not direct light and somewhere that it will also not freeze. I put them in a pot and cover it all with a plastic bag. voila, they are rooted by spring.
Spray peach trees for coryneum blight with copper fungicides; spray cherry and prune trees for bacterial canker with copper spray.
Store any garden chemicals and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out of the reach of children.
Clean and prepare the greenhouse for winter gardening activities.
Early october: begin manipulating light to force christmas cactus to bloom in late december. This can be done in your home.
Bait and trap moles. This is a most challenging undertaking. I have learned that the most effective technique is using crushing tunnel line traps. Ugh!

A (Socially Distanced) Visit to Secret Garden Growers in Canby, Oregon

Tue, 01 Sep 2020 20:55:00 GMT

A few years ago, my friend and fellow blogger, Ann Amato of Amateur Bot-Ann-Ist started working at a small specialty nursery in Canby called Secret Garden Growers. A nursery I had not been to at the time but have since grown to really love.

I have also come to adore the owner, Pat Thompson. Last year Pat hosted an event for our Plant Geek Group and this year she was generous enough to open the garden and nursery to the bloggers in late July. The small event was on a Sunday, so we had the whole place to ourselves, on the very spacious nursery grounds with plenty of room to socially distance. I had such a great time I wanted to share some of that experience with you here.

Pat Thompson on the left and Ann Amato on the right. I just adore these two!

Pat Thompson and the Greeters

I didn’t get any photos of my other fellow bloggers who attended, I think I was too starved and excited for some good old plant browsing and shopping.

The nursery is well kept, and plants well cared for. They have a large selection of hard to find and heirloom plants. They have devised the perfect no contact payment method, so I felt safe my entire visit. Just rows and rows of beautiful plants!

Pat is a true horticulturist, she started growing plants she was having a hard time finding but wanted to use in her own designs. She designs, installs, and maintains gardens for clients to this day, so you really know that she has good, personal experience with the plants she grows and will freely share her knowledge with you. If you have not been to Secret Garden Growers, I highly recommend them. Lot’s of room to casually shop around and remain distant. During the growing season, they even do mail order. Check them out!!!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for September 2020

Tue, 01 Sep 2020 20:55:00 GMT

We are now in the waning days of Summer. Take a moment as you walk, jog or drive to enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us by the end of October. September and October are my two favorite months of the year, because they are still dry with sunny skies but with cooler weather than July and August. The transition from Summer into Fall is so different than the change between Spring and Summer in Western Oregon. Spring here is often a furious fight between the chilly wet days of winter and the warmer sunnier days of summer with storms, frosts, winds and the like. Fall here, on the other hand, is usually just a slow cooling slide into the rainy season.

Tips and Tricks:

Slack off on watering in the beds. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weed. Yes, keep doing it! Never give up!
This month and next month are the best months to plant or renovate lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you.
Bait for slugs.
Begin trimming off the tops of those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown to clear up the clutter.
Take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
September through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The peak month is November.
Prepare compost piles for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees this fall.
Pick and store winter squash , when it is ready. This is usually late in September.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
Spray for bacterial canker on blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October.
Pick tomatoes and potatoes.
September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more.
Apply your final application of regular lawn fertilizer (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November).

A Quick Tutorial on Seeding Lawn

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake.
Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have!
Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days.
Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)
Overseeding a lawn now and then in damaged areas, is just part of the life of owning a home that has a lawn.

Mike and Megan's Beautiful West Linn Garden

Fri, 31 Jul 2020 17:01:00 GMT

2020 has been a strange, stressful year, to say the least. No big garden tours, or at least, in person garden tours. I’ve been sticking to smaller gatherings where distancing precautions are being implemented and there is plenty of space. Naturally, I was very excited when Loree Bohl of Danger Garden extended an invite for a private tour of the garden of Mike Hicks and Megan Big John in West Linn, Oregon.

Mike is the head Grower at Little Prince of Oregon Nursery where he has worked for the last 13 years. He has a long history in horticulture, he began as a landscaper and discovered that he loved plants more than he did landscaping. He went on to attend college at CSU for horticulture and green house growing, he began working at different nurseries in Colorado and California, eventually making his way to Oregon where he began working at Little Prince and met Megan, sweet right??!!

Check out the Drone video I made at Little Prince Here

Megan started college at Western Oregon University with a focus on sports, then transferred to Oregon State and attended the Horticultural program where she focused on landscape and turf management. She later began an internship where she was involved with the very beginning stages of the Oregon Garden and had training in just about all aspects of horticultural practices. She was fortunate enough to be there on the opening day of the garden. She went on to work at Little Prince of Oregon where she and Mike would meet. Now, she is the Parks Manager, working at the City of Lake Oswego Parks and Recreations, she has been there for 10 years.

It is clear when you tour their garden, they are both plant lovers. There are so many layers and layers of well grown plants.

Now, let's go for a tour of their garden!

The front garden has enough plants to give a sense of privacy without need of a fence. Mike and Megan told us that when they began gardening here, they brought in quite a few loads of good soil as the soil on site was mostly clay. They kept a small round portion of the front lawn, a couple of the large pines and started to work their magic. The pines have been meticulously cared for and look wonderful, I wish I had snapped a photo of them.

As we continue down the drive, the front garden gives way to more dreamy layers of plants.

On the other side of the driveway we find a few veggie beds, blueberry plants and the entrance to the back garden. I’ll have to apologize; I didn’t get any wide angle shots of this area.

I feel that every good garden needs a grand entrance. It lures you into the space, demanding that you explore. A beautiful gate in the perfect setting is always good in my book and this one left me speechless!

Off to the left of the path there are three tree ferns. Mike says he wraps them with horticultural insulating foam wrap in the winter months. He lets the leaves overwinter on the plant and cleans them up in spring when the wrapping comes off. This has got me thinking “Can I do it?” I have always loved them.

As we pass through the Star Gate you begin to glimpse views of the back garden. Towering Musa basjoo and Tetrapanx, I love them together! This is also where you get to see some of the other bloggers, Jane who creates the MulchMaid blog is on the right photographing plants, Loree of Danger Garden and Alan of Mardigrasgardener can also be spotted in the photo. Our host Mike is in the center of the image. I wish I would have gotten a photo of Megan and Mike together. It isn’t always easy when you are in the moment with a garden such as this.

Let's Just Take a Look Around

Garden Tip: I happened to notice this genius idea to hide irrigation shrub adapters in the garden. They have cut and hollowed out a piece of wood to fit right over. I know I will be implementing this soon!

Mike has the luxury of bringing some of his tender container plantings to the nursery to overwinter and I have all the envy!

Mike has a passion for carnivorous plants and has some beautifully grown specimens. I asked him how they protect the plants over the winter. He said they get wrapped with the same nursery foam as the tree ferns and moved close to the house under the eves for protection. Each container gets a layer of dried leaves on top of the plants and in spring the old foliage is removed, and they begin to flush with new growth.

Thank You, Mike and Megan for Opening Your Garden to Us

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for August 2020

Fri, 31 Jul 2020 16:24:00 GMT

Tips and Tricks:

Weed: You should encounter far fewer weeds this month as the dryer weather disinclines them to sprout. Unless they are literally setting seed, you may simply pull them up and lay the little helpless things out in the hot sun and they will instantly turn into compost.
Mow regularly: Continue at your preferred higher setting for the summer months. This keeps the lawn healthier rather then setting it low.
Water: Make sure to water those plants which need a drink! The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate so quickly or blow away in the breeze. Generally, irrigate at one inch a week for the lawn. (Use up to 2” if it has been really hot and dry). The plant beds will need about half that amount of water/week.
Water new plantings: If you planted new plants this Spring, remember to augment their watering by a hand, in addition to any irrigation. Irrigation systems are for maintaining established plantings and usually do not supply enough water to get the new plants rooted. You do not want to turn up the irrigation system as you may over water all of the rest of your plants. Therefore, augment the plants which you recently planted until Fall.
Monitor veggie garden irrigation closely so that crops do not dry out.
Fertilize: Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli. Harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Pest Control: Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables or Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a bacterial disease of the Caterpillars and won’t harm other creatures, including you.
Mulch: Use mulch to protect the soil and plant roots from hot weather damage.
Arborvitae care: Watch for spider mite control on some ornamentals, particularly Arborvitae hedges, hose off their foliage, once a month, once a day, for three days in a row. Arborvitae hedges are the most susceptible to spider mite damage and, not uncommonly, browning and/or death.
Fleas: You may also want to consider controlling outdoor fleas with spray this month if you have outdoor pets.

Xeriscaping

Wed, 01 Jul 2020 20:31:00 GMT

Xeriscaping is a great way to reduce your garden's need for supplemental irrigation. With the right prep and attention to plant choices, you can create a garden that requires little to no additional water from irrigation. Many people have a misconception that a Xeric garden will look like a scene from a desert, and while there is nothing wrong with this look, you are not confined to that look in a Xeric garden. A careful selection of native and climate-adapted plants can give you a very lush look and feel.

7 Principles to Follow for a Xeric Garden

1. Sound landscape planning and design.

Get to know the garden space. Really pay attention to problem areas, for example, places that do not drain well in winter. Rocky areas and steep slopes will require special considerations as well. You will want to address these areas or choose plants that are well suited to these conditions. Try to group plants with similar cultural requirements. You can also give us a call, we would be happy to help!

2. Limitation of turf (commonly referred to as lawn) to appropriate, functional areas.

If a lawn is a must have, consider the kind of use it will get and try to keep the shape of the lawn suitable for efficient irrigation to avoid over spray and wasting water. Mow your lawn 1/3 higher than usual, this will help keep the soil cooler and the lawn will require less water. When you mow, consider leaving lawn clippings to mulch in place. This will return nutrients to the soil and reduce the need for fertilizer inputs. (Just watch for unwanted weed seeds). There are also many lawn alternatives to consider depending on how you plan to use the space.

3. Use of water efficient plants.

When thinking about plants for your Xeric garden there are many excellent west coast native plants to consider. Our west coast native Irises and hybrids are a very good example. Over the years many plants men and women have been breeding these wonderful plants, coming up with some great selections to choose from. Keep in mind that it is also okay to consider nonnative plants as well. Some studies on native pollinators suggest that plant diversity plays a very big role in native pollinator health and will help to increase the numbers you are likely to see in your garden. There are so many great climate adapted plants to choose from. The Xera Plants website is one of our favorite resources for researching a wide range of plants and specific biomes. We encourage you to check it out for ideas and inspiration.

4. Efficient irrigation.

Consider using drip irrigation where you can. Drip irrigation gets the water right where the plant needs it with less evaporation. Install dedicated zones for plants with differing water needs so you can really dial in your system as efficiently as possible. As time goes on and plants get established you will need to monitor your system and begin reducing the amount of water used.

5. Use mulch.

Mulching is key to helping the soil retain moisture and keeping the roots of plants cool in the hot summer months. Mulch refers to any product that covers the soil as a top dressing. You can use anything from gravel to wood chips depending on the style you are looking for but take into consideration the needs of your plants as well. Some plants, such as Agave and Opuntia will do better with a gravel mulch so that water will drain away from the fleshy foliage. Arctostaphylos is another plant that benefits from a gravel mulch, especially when young, to help prevent the rain from splashing dirt or debris that could be carrying pathogens onto the lower leaves.

6. Appropriate landscape maintenance.

Prune for disease and to keep plants in check. Inspect plants for pests and keep up on your weeding. Where appropriate, consider leaving perennials through winter instead of cutting them back. Birds will enjoy the seeds, just be careful to remove any seed heads from plants that could potentially spread into unwanted areas. I like to cut any clippings into small pieces to spread as I’m working as smaller pieces will break down faster. Try to only use fertilizers when necessary.

7. Soil amendments.

Try to select plants that will work with your soil type. For larger beds that need more organic matter top dress the soil with a good layer of garden mulch and plant into it, then let it naturally incorporate into the existing soil over time. Increased drainage in some beds to suit specific plants can be accomplished with the use of sand and gravel. Pumice is also nice to incorporate in these areas as the porous surface will retain some moisture but still allow for increased drainage.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for July 2020

Wed, 01 Jul 2020 20:25:00 GMT

We have all just experienced one of the wettest June’s on record in our part of the world and are now entering what is traditionally the driest and warmest month of the year. Who knows what might actually happen, but it is good to be prepared for what normally happens.

Tips and Tricks:

Irrigate your lawn liberally to keep the grass from going dormant. (All of our native grasses have a built-in ability to go to sleep turning a tawny brown in June/July until the fall rains begin again in November.) In the early 80s when I first began the business, it was very common for homeowners to not own automatic irrigation systems. They simply kept their lawns mowed once or twice a month because there was almost no growth. A brown lawn was a normal lawn!
Prune any of your shrubs right after they have bloomed, but only if it is needed.
Keep up weeding , however now it should be much easier as one simply has to cut the roots off or lift the baby weeds and let them dry out on the ground. They will simply disappear in the hot sun.
Fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
Set your mower to highest setting that you can tolerate. (A lot of people want to see lawns set at Golf Green elevation, about ¼” high.) This does not work on home lawns as no homeowners that I know maintain their lawns to the degree that Golf courses do!
Lawns in an average July, need one inch of water per week this month.
Check for Root Weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas. They cut out nasty notches on the leaves. Use nematodes to kill the Weevil larvae in the ground or use sticky traps on the trunk to kill the adult Weevils.
Mulch, if you have not done so already, to conserve soil moisture using bark or other organic products such as compost or clippings.
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites), and wash them with water from a hose. Pick a day when you can drench them once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this practice each month during the dry season. In other words, you are acting like a heavy summer rain! This disrupts their life cycle.
Dig spring bulbs when tops have died down. (Divide and replant if overcrowded or store them in the garage if you have not decided where you want to plant them yet).
Stake tall growing perennials as needed. Lilies, Dahlias and Roses commonly need this kind of care.
End of month: prune boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly, and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
Mound soil up around base of potatoes, gather and eat a few “new” potatoes from each hill.
Consider planting Mid-summer selections of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family and carrot family (including Dill, Zinnias, Marigolds, Jerusalem Artichokes)
Stake your tomatoes, watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves).
Check t hose areas of your real estate which get little to NO water this time of the year and which maybe do not have plants or where plants just will not grow. Consider planning and then planting drought tolerant (Xerophytic) plants in those locations this Fall when the rains begin! We will talk about that in our July blog.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for June 2020

Mon, 01 Jun 2020 21:33:00 GMT

June is the big month for Western Oregon and Washington gardeners! This month we complete the Spring planting of our veggie and berry beds.

Summer technically starts the 21st of June, which means that the sunshine is most the effective all this month because it as close to being vertical in the sky, as it can get in our temperate climate. It floods the air and ground dousing the plants with its benefits. Remember that the sun is what enables your plants to be able to photosynthesize and make carbohydrates!

Tips and Tricks:

Plant the warm season annuals, whether you plant flowers or vegetables: Petunias, Impatiens, Eggplants, Tomatoes, Tomatillos, Golden Berries, Peppers, Corn, Basil, Cucumbers, etc.
Fertilizing your annuals every two weeks with a natural fertilizer will cause them to grow well and produce. This would be one which is not derived from Petroleum but from manure, kelp, shells, blood, bone, rock, or feathers. Remember that too much nitrogen simply gives lots of leaves but not much fruit. For a Veggie bed, a balanced fertilizer is best; one that has the 3 letters representing N, P, K like 5-4-3 or 4-3-2 where the first number is highest but not a lot higher than the other two.
Mow regularly; set your lawn mower at your favorite high setting for the rest of the summer until October. Keeping the grass longer, during the hot months, helps to shade the roots and keeps the grass greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is basically over, and there will soon be less weeds to pull because the warm rain causes them to sprout! If you’re in a hurry you can simply toss the weeds, (which are not going to seed) out in the sunny part of the bed, and they will dry up right there by the end of the day. Don’t do this on a rainy cloudy day because they just might strike root and grow again!
Water everything as needed, one inch per week at minimum for the lawn, and half an inch for the shrubs. This is a standard rule of thumb for an average warm dry June week.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Try to use safe pet bait.
Prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they finish blooming if they need it.
Check the Rhodies and Azaleas for weevils. Nematodes or insect tape can be used to combat them. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look discolored. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called Green or Brown Lace Wings. One can purchase the eggs of these predators locally.
To make Rhodie look neater and bloom more next year, now is time to dead head the seed stalks.
Continue to take care of coddling moths and scab on apples and pears. Check with the Extension Service , to see how often they need to be treated.
Thin out the excess little fruits on pears and apples. If you do not thin them, you will have little fruits and they might become too heavy and break off whole branches!
Spray for fruit flies on cherries. Check with the Extension Service .
Check for Aphids and Cabbage worms on veggies or roses. If needed choose your method of action.

Winterbloom Gardens

Mon, 01 Jun 2020 21:32:00 GMT

This month we are bringing you more personal stories from our employees here at Winterbloom about the things they've been doing in their gardens and the ways in which it has helped them during this challenging time. We hope you have also been finding ways to get outside and decompress this month.

John and Friends - John Gammons (Gardening Foreman)

Every winter I await spring, to watch the garden awaken from its winter slumber. Now that spring is here, I have been taking time to clean up old growth and weeds, preparing for summer by adding in annuals where I feel they are needed, and enjoying the daily surprises as they pop up, from the bleeding hearts and Trillium to the hostas and ferns. Watching the new growth emerge makes me feel revitalized, like seeing old friends I have been missing. Many of the plants in my garden are sentimental, from friends past and present, and as I see them growing it makes me think of those friends and look forward to the time when I can be with them again. For now, I enjoy the colors, the fragrances, and take comfort in the knowledge that those friends are experiencing the same in their gardens. In that way, we are apart right now, but together as well.

Ivy Armageddon - Dale Hickey (Gardening Manager)

Over the last couple of years, I have hit some milestones with the garden, creating a space for my Mom and family to hang out in and socialize has been important as our home is somewhat small and not conducive to large gatherings.

I had been putting off some significant renovations that needed to take place, one of which is the very steep slope, covered in Ivy, big leaf maples, and a diseased 40-year-old Filbert tree that was starting to drop dead limbs on the neighboring property. I had postponing dealing with the bank as it would significantly disrupt our gathering time. Now, with any group gatherings on hold, I'm going to tackle these tasks this summer.

This somewhat significant and substantial endeavor has become a source of much-needed garden therapy for me. Now I know, you might be thinking, "This would stress me out!" I assure you, it has had the opposite effect for me. When I am stressed and need some busy work, I head out to the garden and chop up or pull some Ivy, knowing I'm taking care of a task that has been on the back burner for some time.

Each time I tackle another task, I get a vision of what I can do with this reclaimed space in my garden and it’s starting to make me very happy. This is all something I can do right now, and I feel very fortunate to have something like this to keep me busy during this time.

Reflecting - Eric Bock (Install Manager)

During these unsettling and ever-changing times in the world around us, I personally have been able to find calm and serenity in my garden. Weeding and pruning are two tasks that have been filling up time as I get ready to plant my veggies (a little late). This space is a release for me from the chaos and allows me to center my thoughts and to reflect. Working in my garden not only allows me to connect with nature, which I dearly need, but also allows me to connect with myself. After my veggies are planted my next project is getting all my bed space mulched with a thick layer of dark hemlock to help remediate weeds. Be safe everyone and may your garden provide peace to you and your family as it does for mine.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for May 2020

Mon, 11 May 2020 18:36:00 GMT

It has been said that April showers bring May flowers. April was mostly a dry month until the 22nd when we finally had refreshment and the air, which had become laden with pollen, was washed!

Tips and Tricks:

Purchase your annuals to plant outside in pots or flower beds. But hold off on ones that like heat to grow, such as tomatoes and basil. Normally by this time, the soil has not warmed up enough and the nights are still not warm enough either. If planted these plants will most likely just sit & pout, rot or drown.
Begin moderate watering. Last month most people turned on their irrigation systems if they had them because it was so dry. It is time now to soak once every week, or more often if things turn dry.
Fertilize lawn with a natural fertilizer (non-petrochemical).
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower one setting higher than you set it last month.
Thatch and renovate your lawn. If your lawn needs this step it’s best to do it yearly. We have found that if we use totally natural fertilizer, (not petroleum derivatives), we have never yet needed to do this step. We believe that the earthworms seem to take care of the dead grass/stems called thatch and keep our ground free draining. Using petrochemicals burns their skins or kills them outright.
Weed now ! If you’re short on time, always pull up the ones that are going to seed first and then get what you can of the others. The others can often wait till another day, if you do not have the time today. 5 minute weeding can get a lot done!
Begin root weevil control. You may use nematodes for the larvae. Use DE (diatomaceous earth) on the ground surface around the plants & sticky traps on the trunks of the plants in order to kill the adults.
Fertilize shrubs, normally the composting litter that we leave or place all around on the ground underneath shrubs such Rhododendrons, Azaleas, and all shrubs for that matter, is enough for the plants to do well. I do not fertilize any of these plants unless they look stressed or chlorotic and then I use Alaska Fish Fertilizer.
Consider planting chrysanthemums now for a burst of fall color that will return as a surprise every year. They like full sun and good drainage, do not plant them where water drains on them.
Control aphids by washing the foliage with soap suds, removing by hand, or by promoting natural predators, such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of tiny, shiny, black beetles on cabbage, and potatoes indicate flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (bacillus Thuringensis) or soapy water. Pick them off if you can see them, or all the above.
Control slugs with bait, salt, or by smashing. There is always the Beer method where one gets them soused and they drown in their own drink!
Begin liquid fertilizing of annuals. Natural organic fertilizer is best. We use Alaska Fish fertilizer.
Prune plants that really need it after they flower this month.
Plant the warm season vegetables later this month or in the first week of June. These include: tomatoes, peppers, egg plants, snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, onions.
Spray fruit, nut, and shade trees for tent caterpillars, if present.

Get out there and do it! Doing so will cut down on boredom associated with Covid-19 cloistering and get you in touch with the real world rather than the virtual world!

Garden Ruminations

Mon, 11 May 2020 18:32:00 GMT

This month and next month we'll be bringing you personal stories from our employees here at Winterbloom about the things they've been doing in their gardens and the ways in which it has helped them during this challenging time. We hope you have also been finding ways to get outside and decompress this month.

Gardening with Phil - Phil Thornburg (Owner and Lead Designer)

It is a normal busy Monday, clients have called in with challenging questions, employees have expressed concerns, my ‘to do’ list is quite long and pressing, I notice that I still have 46 more emails to follow up. Yikes!

I regularly get up at 5 am to be ahead of my employees. Which makes for a long morning by the time 11 am rolls around.

My Fitbit reminds me that I have not moved from my desk for an hour. I feel antsy. As I peer out around my computer through my window, I see that the sun is shining out there in the real world and my trusty plant friends are beckoning me to come out and spend some time.

I kick off my slippers, put on my clogs and walk out into the fresh air. Immediately I hear the Chickadees and Towhees calling, the air is a divine sweet perfume with the scents of Viburnum and Daphne. As I walk down the path, I see an annual bluegrass impudently springing up in the gravel, I stop and squat to put it to death but I see more, I stay a while, pulling all of the baby grass starts, throwing them into the waiting black weed pot.

I get up and walk over to the yellow café table and chairs for a few minutes, they invite me to sit down and I do so with a deep sigh. I listen to the gurgle of the waterfalls from the water feature, and stretch out, relaxing!

I close my eyes, my cares are gone for some moments, the sun glows pink through my eyelids.

I feel the urge to pinch off some of the wild shoots on the Deciduous Azalea that is reaching out into the path not far from me. As I finish, I look at my watch, it has been 7 minutes and it is time to get back into the office.

It is amazing to me the sense of well being and enjoyment that I can receive from 7 minutes in my garden, doing things that need to be done. It has refreshed me on a busy MONDAY!

Retreat and Respite, that is what I think about when I think of going out into my garden, my yard, my landscape!

How could I run my business or even live my life without it!

Miriam's Check In - Miriam Bock (Designer)

Super Woman Gardener - Serenity Coloumbe (Designer)

Working in the garden is like stepping into a different realm. I hear birds chirping, someone else’s kid screaming and the wind blowing my hot mess away. A quieter realm that allows space for thinking and being. I instantly have special powers to create and change scenery in a matter of an hour or two…or three. All I need is my super overalls, orangey-colored shirt and garden clogs. Honestly, you can find me rustling in the shrubs and the dirt, saving plants from the clutches of weeds at any time of the week in ANY outfit. But that particular outfit, previously described, is like my version of stepping into a telephone booth and stepping out as none other than….SuperWomanGardener.

The Garden. This is where I recharge my spirit. My family giggles at me in my SuperWomanGardener outfit and my inability to keep track of time while I’m doing my thing. They laugh and they know that this is their mom who loves them deeply and has a place to go to love herself and her Creator. It is the realm where my spirit, mind and body work together and have fun together. With my dog and cat in tow, “helping”, I imagine myself entering into a Holy space in my overalls.

Our tiny, hormonal, explosive home needs a mom who loves to get her hands dirty and talks to plants. During this time of quarantining and practicing things that we have never practiced; I hope that you can also find a place to recharge. Someday our children will remember our example and do the same.

Thanks, Dad!

Victory in Gardening

Wed, 08 Apr 2020 19:29:00 GMT

These are challenging times and my trip to Home Depot last week held many examples of what our new normal has become. I stood in a long line while employees carefully counted how many customers were going in and out. I spent a long time in the cleaning aisle on my phone researching whether Clorox® Toilet Bowl Cleaner and Windex® could kill COVID-19 germs because they were the only products left in stock. I fruitlessly trudged up and down aisles looking for spray bottles for the bleach one of our employees had graciously donated to our cleaning cause. Even with the long line outside, the aisles in the store were eerily quiet. I paused a moment to absentmindedly scratch my dry, chaffed hands and found myself staring at a display of brightly colored seed packs. That is when two words sprang forward in my mind: Victory Garden.

Victory Gardens were quite prominent beginning a hundred years ago during World War I. They were renamed Relief Gardens during the Great Depression and then switched back to Victory Gardens for World War II. Those were times when our country's resources were stretched to the limit fighting wars and a lot of the food supply was being sent overseas to feed soldiers and war-torn Europe. The citizens at home were encouraged to do their part in the war effort by using any land they could find to turn it into vegetable gardens for food production. And in a surprising turn of events, it worked! In 1943, Victory Gardens produced a staggering 40% of all the fresh produce in the United States.

What we are currently experiencing is not a war and certainly not comparable to the horrors, violence and devastation that come with it. However, these are uncertain times, and for the first time many of us are experiencing new, unsettling norms. We’re finding ourselves in situations that would have been unthinkable just a couple of months ago.

I am not alone in this thinking. A cursory Google search will produce multiple articles from recent works about high sales across the USA in seeds and plant starts, as well as high internet traffic in searches about gardening and building raised beds. This isn’t surprising for anyone who has tried to find potatoes and dried beans at the store recently.

My greatest hope, as I stood in Home Depot stuffing seed packets into the crook of my elbow, was that someday my great grandchildren will laugh at how I went overboard and overacted by planting three zucchini plants, leaving them with an inheritance of inedible, frozen zucchini bread from 2020. My greatest motivation was that, in the midst of all this turmoil and uncertainty, I could pour my energy and focus into something constructive and those three zucchini plants could turn into solid food for me, my family and anyone in my community who needs it.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for April 2020

Wed, 08 Apr 2020 19:09:00 GMT

We have had one of the most frost-free winters that I can ever remember here in western Oregon. My Fuchsias are all budding out along their stems. My tuberous Begonias are resprouting. We have not had as much rain as usual, but it is not one of our very dry springs either. I am hoping for a mix of rain and sunshine to keep the ground moist but, at the same time, warm enough to induce perennials to pop out of the ground and bushes to push green out of their stems.

Here are our tips and tricks for the month of April.

Bait for slugs and snails: If you do not like to purchase bait, remember there are other options—one is beer! It can act as bait when placed in a shallow bowl. Replace it after a rain or when it fills up with dead slug bodies.
Deer and bunnies: If you live around these creatures remember to take measures. One trick that I have used is Irish Spring® soap hung around the bushes. The deer do not like the smell. There are also products that can be sprayed on the plants that deter both deer and bunnies.
Weed regularly: It has been cool and moist enough that they are still small, and most are not mature enough to set seed, so pull them out now. Preventing weeds from setting seeds is the very best way to cut down on the number of weeds in your garden.
Mow weekly and set your lawnmower higher than you did in March. If you mow this month for the very first time you should set it at the very lowest setting to wake up the grass. This might take two or three cuts to not clog up your mower and to get the lawn cut correctly. The first mow is the year’s most difficult cut—if you mow weekly the rest of the year!
Leave the foliage on spring flowering bulbs. Only cut off the seedpods after the blooms are finished as the foliage needs to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms. I recommend waiting to cut the foliage until it is an ugly yellow brown.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees if they need it. If they do need it, wait until immediately after the blossoms have faded.
It is time to plant summer blooming bulbs like gladiolas and dahlias for extended summer bloom.
It is time to prepare the veggie garden for spring planting (if you have not already done so).
It’s a good time to purchase and plant these starts: rhubarb, potatoes and asparagus (if you have not done so already). Ours were planted last month. All three of these are perennial plants in our climate.
These vegetables are traditionally planted this month when your garden is prepared and ready: peas, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, chives, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, lettuce, onion sets, parsnips, radishes and turnips.
Check berries for spittlebugs and aphids: if present, wash them off with water or soap and water.
If you have problems with pear and apple scab you may spray lime/sulfur. Also, there is very little time left to thin branches in your fruit trees, but be careful as you may knock off new buds (which contain your future fruit) in the process.
The natural way to help control rose diseases is to remove all infected leaves—such as black spot and mildew—by cutting them off and throwing them in the garbage. Remember to prune for air circulation to help prevent black spot and mildew.
If there are any dead perennial tops left, now is the time to cut them down completely. Do this before the new growth begins popping out of the ground or you will have to spend more time selectively pruning each individual dead stalk to prevent damaging the new spring growth.

Unam Botanical Garden (Mexico City)

Fri, 13 Mar 2020 21:41:00 GMT

It’s almost spring, and I thought I would take you someplace warm to help get you ready for our upcoming gardening season. I mean, who doesn’t like to look at photos of beautiful, sunny gardens when the weather is still chilly? Perhaps this will help you get excited for spring—which is just around the corner now!

In January I had the opportunity to visit Mexico City. It was my second trip to this vast, beautiful city, and I knew I wanted to visit this amazing garden.

Like I said, Mexico City is vast—the largest city in North America. Navigating this city can be challenging, but, with a quick study of the subway system and a travel buddy who is fluent in Spanish, we found our way to the garden in no time.

Founded in 1959, UNAM Botanical Garden is the second oldest botanical garden in Mexico. The garden was created to study and preserve the diverse flora of Mexico. This garden is host to over 1,600 plant species, of which 300 are considered threatened. Within this collection 48 percent of endangered Mexican Agavoideae are represented, as well as 58 percent of endangered Mexican cacti and 100 percent of endangered crassulacean. Part of the project involves an adopt a plant program to help educate visitors about the importance of preserving the flora of Mexico.

The plantings around the University are nice. One thing that struck me was seeing swaths of Leonotis nepetifolia along the roadways. Sadly, it wasn’t a good location to get a good photo of the swaths I saw, but I did find a few to photograph closer to the entrance of the main garden.

A portion of the original garden is a very nice collection of old Yuccas, Dasylirion and Agave. I actually spent so much time in this area I didn’t get a chance to really take in the arboretum. Another reason to go back, right?!

Dasylirion Quadrangulatus

Dasylirion

My love of Yuccas is relatively new—within the last five years or so. Yet again, another case of judging a plant before I really understood how many different forms there are. This next section had me absolutely clutching my pearls. Just look at these towering Yuccas!

The garden feels vast when you are in it. Totaling 32 acres, with 7.4 acres open to the public—I’m glad I didn’t try to see everything in one day.

Check out the thorns on this Acacia!

Upon closer inspection, I noticed some Tillandsia growing on the Acacia. I think this is Tillandia recurvata.

I hope you could feel the warmth through these photos. I’ll end this post with a gallery of the rest of my images. Thanks for checking them out!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for March 2020

Fri, 13 Mar 2020 19:00:00 GMT

March 19 Is the Date on Which Our Calendar Says Spring 2020!

We have had heavy rains in January and early February, followed by sunshine for several days in late February, but only light frosts this winter! Who knows what March will continue to bring! Now is the time to determine if this September you need to purchase more bulbs, and, specifically WHERE you need to plant them so that Spring 2021 will be even more cheery! Make a note of it, now, somewhere that you will remember to purchase in September 2020! The robins have set up their territories and are now loudly proclaiming at dawn. Our Pacific chorus frogs are actively forming a symphony for our entire neighborhood. The bees have been seen out visiting our spring blooms.

Here Are Some Tips and Tricks for March:

It is important right now—if you have not yet done it—to quickly prune off any of last year’s perennial ugly, brown foliage that you did not get to, before the new sprouts begin to come up and make you selectively prune the branches.
Continue weeding to prevent your weeds from going to seed! Seriously, if you weed now, summer weeding will be so much easier. And if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time. Just please be careful when using this sort of thing!!
Continue baiting for slugs.
This is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it soon before they sprout. If a plant is starting to sprout, it might be best to leave it alone and wait for next fall to move it.
Prune your spring-flowering shrubs after the blossoms fade, and only if they really need it.
Trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished (usually later in March). This keeps them nice, tight and full.
Now is the time to cut off all your Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to open all of their new fronds. This is mainly where you look at them from a path or a window. Obviously, if you own a woodsy section you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods this way. No one does it out in the forest!
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas with compost, or—only if necessary—use an acid-type fertilizer. An indicator this is needed is if the leaves are yellow.
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that didn’t get mulched last month.
Lawn-mowing begins this month, so, set your blade at the lowest setting that you are comfortable with: ¾”-1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses. In other words, set it as low as you can without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn after you do this, and it might take three tries to get it to the level that you want. The grass will be wet and green and you do not want to clog up or kill your lawn mower! Do not leave clipping clumps on the grass this month as they will create brown spots. Throw the clumps into the beds or the composter.
This is the time for the first 2020 application of lawn fertilizer after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical or a 16-5-5 fertilizer).
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost (or a 10-10-10 fertilizer).
Prune out dead wood on raspberries, blueberries and gooseberries to keep them from getting too big, then spread wood shavings and, as needed, manure/compost.

On a side note, I apologize for the fact that these tips and tricks don't vary a lot from year to year. That is because the tips and tricks I share are the ones that have stood the test of the garden calendar of time. If you have new ones or want to polish up the ones that I have here, please let me know! Thank you.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for February 2020

Mon, 03 Feb 2020 23:54:00 GMT

Well, well, well. It has certainly been a very wet January. Often it can be the drier/coldest month of the year. But take heart, we are getting close to “landscapers’ spring”, which is February 15th. That date is the official milestone marking landscaper spring in our business. It is rare after that point to get heavy snow or hard frosts. It also means we will be having increased calls for jobs to be bid. When the sun peeks out, people quickly pick up their phones! ��

This is a great month to get back out in your yard! We will have rain, of course, but it’s a slightly warmer rain. The following list is a guide to remind you of your options:

It is time to begin baiting for slugs. Place it close to plants that you know will be popping out of the ground soon!
Weed! Now is the time to get those sneaky things when they are weak and helpless! Take one section of the yard per weekend to prune and weed all the way around the yard this month.
It’s still an excellent time to transplant most trees and shrubs.
Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs—either bare-root (is less expensive) or from a container.
Plant perennials outdoors, including perennial herbs: chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage and thyme (remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
Prune fruit trees as needed.
Prune and train grapes.
Prune roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available, but we believe Heirloom Roses (located just outside the city of St. Paul) is the best place to purchase self-root roses.
Continue to prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia and/or flowering cherries so you can bring them inside to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis and hydrangea. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs, such as Azaleas and Rhodies. You will cut off the bloom buds if you do!
Consider pruning back Fuchsias and other picky perennials (that have not been pruned back yet) to about four inches. We have already cut back all the other NON-picky perennials here at Thornhurst. This year has not been as cold so far, thus our Fuchsias have not really died to the ground. In this kind of situation, I personally still wait until I can see how far up the little green buds come out, then trim them down to that mark. This Spring we will probably see buds on the stems somewhere. I do this sort of pruning on Fuchsias, Agastache and Salvia since they are all fairly picky about being cut back too soon.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick. Do this every two years if you did not have enough natural compost. Compost/leaf-mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to perform this task in the wintertime after things are trimmed and cleaned up. This way you can see what you are doing and it makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds, in the rainy season it prevents erosion and, finally, it helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season.

For Adventuresome Gardeners:

February is the last month to sow hardy annual wildflower seeds on the ground. The best month is November. The final two weeks of February is the last time to plant seeds and/or starts of these hardy annual wildflower seeds because it is after the last hard frosts, but before the air and soil warm up too much for the little plant to root properly. Two examples of this type of Hardy Annual are Clarkia elegans and Eschscholzia californica (California Poppies).
Make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers and prepare the soil for growing pots and flats of seedlings.
Plant your cold frame with seeds of plants in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli and Brussel sprouts, for future transplanting outdoors.
Apply the first of four dormant sprays (copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray) on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae. This exact same mix of dormant sprays can be used for other deciduous fruit trees and shrubs—especially certain roses which normally are attacked by disease and insects.

Here is a source for Hardy Annual Starts from Annie’s Annuals.

2019: Reflecting on the Year through Garden Photos

Wed, 08 Jan 2020 19:20:00 GMT

As we enter 2020, let’s take a tour of garden photos from 2019. In this photo tour I'll give you a sample of some of the beautiful gardens and plants I photographed throughout the year.

In January we saw the early blooms of Hellebores and Cyclamen in the Thornhurst Garden—the home and display garden of Winterbloom. These plants always get me excited for the blooms that are soon to come.

In February I found myself in Palm Springs visiting several gardens I highly recommend. The first was a visit to the small but amazing Moorten Botanical Garden .

Then came a visit to the Thousand Palms Oasis in the Coachella Valley Preserve . It's a 20,000+ acre sanctuary with an oasis hosting thirsty, towering Washingtonia filifera.

Next came a visit to Sunnylands in Rancho Mirage.

In March we were all busy with garden cleanup. Here we see Phil Thornburg working in the Thornhurst Garden.

In April we saw Peonies, Tulips and Azara blooming in the Thornhurst Garden.

May saw the Thornhurst Garden really waking up, including one of my favorite trees, Embothrium coccineum.

June in the Thornhurst Garden is pretty special with Kniphofia and Acca sellowiana blooming away.

July in the Thornhurst Garden brought us Echinacea, Ascelpias and Fuchsias en-masse.

In August we saw Zauschneria and Hedychium in the Thornhurst Garden.

In September we saw a wonderful show from the Lagerstroemia-Crape Myrtle, and we took a trip over to Cistus Nursery to pick up plants and visit the inspired new rock garden.

In October we were still seeing a lot of beauty in the gardens here in the Pacific Northwest. We were also in the process of building a large rock wall we are very pleased with. If you want to check out the video we made of building the wall you can see it on our YouTube channel, HERE .

In November we saw the blooms of Camellia, Cyclamen and Mahonia in the Thornhurst Garden.

And, finally, we will close this post with some photos from our annual Winterbloom holiday party.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for January 2020

Tue, 07 Jan 2020 19:14:00 GMT

Happy 2020! It’s a Completely New Decade!

Today is a cool and damp day, feeling very normal for this time of the year. To date, we have not had a hard or killing frost here at Thornhurst. That marker is when the temp gets at or below 28 degrees. The rains have been adequate in 2019, but nothing is in flood stage! We are starting to get more snow in the mountains in preparation for our summer irrigation needs.

Here are some tips and tricks for your landscape this January:

It is still a great time for transplanting. All the plants are in a mostly dormant state. But don’t transplant if the temperature is below freezing. Generally, this is not a problem because the average human is not interested in transplanting unless the ground is soft and moist.
One can plant peas now! There are two very different groups of Peas: sweet peas (grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or eating peas (both the type grown for eating the pods and those for eating the inner peas). Consider if you have a spot in the garden where the ground is prepared. If you procrastinate and wait for warm weather to plant peas, their insect and fungus enemies will be ready to jump on them. If you plant them now, their enemies are asleep! Plant peas where the soil is well drained and workable. Peas are easy to grow from seeds!
Peas are available a couple different ways. Shelled peas only have the inner pea eaten. Snap peas have a full, crisp, thick pod with peas inside. They are sweet and one can easily eat pod and all fresh. It can be used as a snack, cooked or in salads. Snow peas are typically used in stir-fry dishes. They have a rubbery pod which is picked early before it fills out with the peas.
It is still too early to start most other seeds for spring vegetable plants, both in the garden or in a cold frame for transplants.
It is very important to water landscape plants underneath wide eaves, and in other spots protected from rain, at least once a month. Monitor them until the irrigation is turned on.
Moss appearing in your lawn usually means too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction, resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year to decide what to do. Your options are to get rid of the shade or shrink the lawn, so that there is less lawn in the shade. Shade kills lawn while at the same time encourages moss to grow. Moss can quickly out-compete lawn if it is a half-shade situation. Moss killer is easily applied, however, and if one uses iron oxide then it is not poisonous. If your trees are getting too big and shading the lawn, the first option might be to either remove the most shaded part of the lawn or remove some of the branches (or a whole tree) to get your lawn performing like you want.
For winter indoor color, gather branches of budding quince, forsythia or flowering cherries and bring them inside. Mash the bottom of the stems before placing them into a large, water-filled vase. The warmth of the house will force early blooming on the stems for beautiful bouquets.
Monitor houseplants for correct watering and feeding; guard against insect infestations, clean dust from leaves. Use a low-level fertilizer like Oxygen Plus. Do NOT over-water this time of the year—it is very easy to do.

It’s also time to plan out and commence with your annual winter pruning! Click HERE for a blog on this subject.

Check online for ideas and follow up with your local garden/nursery stores for seed, find seed catalogs and begin planning this year’s veggies and annual flowers. I usually begin daydreaming in January about landscape changes or additions. Garden catalogs are the best solution for this situation!
For our rural friends, watch for field mice or vole damage on the lower trunks of trees and shrubs. They can quickly kill young trees or shrubs! Control measures include approved baits, weed control and traps.

Getting Grounded

Fri, 13 Dec 2019 21:34:00 GMT

“My husband is trying to kill me.” I had no response. All I could do was sit, wide eyed, and pass a box of tissues over to the sobbing woman as my coworker calmly walked her through the intake form. It was the summer after my junior year of university, and the first day of my internship at a local nonprofit was off to an interesting start. Over the next few months many people would pass through the chair in front of me. Some would be old acquaintances; others—strangers. There’d be senior citizens, small children, homeless, hungry, injured, fearful—all connected by a deep level of desperation. My experiences there forever changed both how I view the community I was raised in and the perception I have of poverty in the United States. Every weekend that summer I would pile into my “vintage”, 1990 Honda Accord and speed along the old country roads south of Salem to my grandparents’ farm. I would spend two days there under the Oregon sun, digging in the bright red Rosedale dirt. It was during those weekends of gardening that I was able to make peace with all the difficult things I saw each week—not forget or numb them, but accept the reality of those hard things and find a way to go back to work on Monday.

Little did I know that five years later I would, again, find solace in gardening. This time I would be processing my own personal tragedy—struggling to come to peace with the unique heartbreak and sense of grief that divorce brings. As I worked alongside my coworkers at Winterbloom and listened to their stories, I began to realize that I was not the only one who took comfort in gardening. 

While there is ongoing research on both the physical and mental health benefits of gardening, much of the evidence is still anecdotal as it can be difficult to quantify experiences. In keeping with that, the following is my personal, anecdotal evidence for the benefits of gardening. 

In our technology-dominant world, time spent immersed in and tending to nature brings a sense of grounding and reality to my life. It bestows on me a sense of ownership and place akin to knowing where every road in my hometown leads. Being knowledgeable of the plants and ecosystems around me makes me feel like I belong. When I recognize a plant in an unknown place it’s like seeing the familiar face of an old friend, and it gives me an automatic sense of connectedness. 

Gardening reminds me that good things take time. A beautiful garden isn’t grown in a day, it’s formed over years. In a world where almost anything I want is available at the click of a button (with two-day shipping) the reward that comes with waiting has a new significance and is all-the-more precious. Cultivating a piece of land is like a relationship—it takes time, a variety of circumstances and shared experiences to create something rich and abundant.

It creates community. When people find out what I do for a living their faces often light up—almost everyone has a plant question. Whether it’s an in-depth discussion about soil PH or expressing exasperation over killing a cactus from overwatering, it’s a topic where everyone has an experience to share—however small.

Gardening teaches me acceptance and resiliency. Things often happen that are out of our control—storms happen, freezing rain pours down, trees fall, deer eat things, bunnies eat things, bugs eat things, or, as happened to a recent client of mine, you come home from vacation to find a car in your hedge. When we create places we love in nature, we must be accepting when these things happen and figure out the best response. Often there is no one to blame (except the deer, I always blame the deer) and we simply move on. However, even when plants have been crushed, snowed on, hacked back and, yes, munched on, they prove time and time again to be incredibly resilient. I am often surprised and amazed at how well my garden survives my shenanigans; how forgiving plants are when I chop them, move them or leave them unprotected for those greedy deer to wreak havoc on. 

At a time when our relationship with our environment is crucial, we must remember that it is a mutually beneficial relationship. We need to be responsible and take care of the world around us because it takes care of us, too. And during this holiday season, when you feel stressed out and overwhelmed, might I suggest bundling up, braving the Oregon drizzle and finding a weed or two?

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for December

Wed, 04 Dec 2019 23:12:00 GMT

We are now thoroughly into the holiday season. Christmas, Hanukkah, Kwanzaa, Ramadan, the Feast of Our lady of Guadalupe, Saint Lucia Day and Boxing Day are all happening sometime this month, and of course they are all capped off with New Year’s Eve, which then throws us into the income tax season! So, in the midst of all these events, here are a couple tips and tricks for your gardens:

We continue to be in the best time of the year to transplant and/or plant—unless the ground is frozen.
If you do plant or transplant, protect new, taller landscape plants (the tops seem to act like a sail, don’t they?) from the wind by either staking, using guy-wires, creating windbreaks or selecting more protected planting sites.
Poinsettia care: protect them from the cold; place them in sunlight; don’t let their leaves touch cold windows; fertilize them every three weeks; water just to keep moist—make sure that the pot has a hole in it for drainage and that it is sitting in a saucer to keep water from spoiling your furniture!
Cut and dip holly for holiday use. Holly dip is available at your local nursery. If you dip the cut tips of the branch, the berries and the leaves do not wither or fall off.
Keep after the leaves laying on the lawn and hard surfaces (leaves may be left in the beds for an inexpensive mulch that feeds the soil).
Keep checking your gutters to keep them from clogging and overflowing. Until the leaf-fall is over they always seem to find the gutters!
Before your guests come, check the parts of the yard that are in view. Cut and remove any ugly perennial flower stalks; mulch the flowerbeds; hoe or pull weeds and put them in the yard debris container.
After the holidays you may begin working on seriously cutting back all the perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard. A weekend at a time works well enough to get it all done and finish in March.
Monitor your houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much less in winter.
Consider garden-related holiday gifts for the gardeners you know.
It is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses; but don’t delay.
Watch the yard for wet or non-draining areas. If these show up, two possible solutions are to install a French drain and/or dry well to help move and disperse the water in your yard.

Five Plants for Year-Round Interest

Mon, 04 Nov 2019 19:27:00 GMT

As we head into winter I want to look at five of my favorite evergreen plants that will add interest to the garden year-round.

Arctostaphylos (Manzanita)

Arctostaphylos x densiflora 'Sentinel' at the McMenamins Kennedy School Pub

One of my current plant crushes is the handsome Arctostaphylos. With a wide range of sizes and growth habits, I find myself wanting to include them in many gardens.

Arctostaphylos are perfectly drought tolerant. In fact, supplemental summer water could kill them, once established. Hummingbirds love the urn-shaped early flowers, but it's often the smooth, gently twisted peel bark and trunks that get me every time!

Arctostaphylos x densiflora 'Sentinel'

Flowers of Arctostaphylos pajaroensis 'Myrtle Wolf'

Flowers of Arctostaphylos x 'Austin Griffith's

Arbutus unedo (Strawberry Tree)

Arbutus unedoflowers and fruit

Arbutus is also in the Ericaceae family and features the same urn-shaped flowers you see with the Arctostaphylos. Hummingbirds love the flowers, and foraging birds and squirrels visit the dramatically colored fruit that begins neon yellow and matures to red. This small tree wins me over when it has been carefully lifted to expose the beautiful trunk and bark which, in time, begins to peel and shed.

Arbutus unedo 'Compacta'

Euphorbia Rigida

Euphorbia rigida with bright new growth abouth the flower

My favorite Euphorbia! With silvery blue-grey, lance-shaped leaves that spiral up the stem and chartreuse flowers that begin in spring, this plant is a winner in my book. As the flowers start to fade, the foliage will often take on some additional coloring, adding to the allure of this plant.

Yucca Rostrata

Narrow, two-foot grey-blue leaves radiate outwards from the trunk, adding texture to the garden. If given good drainage and time,this plant could reach an impressive 16 feet. Another one of my favorite plants!

Grevillea

Grevillea juniperina 'Lava Cascade'

Hummingbirds adore these handsome, evergreen shrubs and ground covers that have a wide range of flower colors. Some varieties will give you year-round blooms when sited well. These plants thrive on neglect, often requiring little to no additional summer water once established.

Grevillea 'Canberra Gem'

Grevillea 'Poorinda Leane'

Grevillea x gaudichaudii

Until next time, thanks for stopping by!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for November

Thu, 31 Oct 2019 22:52:00 GMT

We have had chilly mornings and sunny days this fall—a lot of them! We do know that the rains will return with a vengeance to make up for lost time. Therefore, here are some things I consider this time of year with both our show landscape and client’s landscapes:

Look for any bare ground and cover it with bark mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). (Weed the space first of course!) This action will insulate your plants from the potential cold to come. It also prevents erosion and, as the mulch breaks down, it supplies nutrients to the plants because it feeds the soil fauna and flora. This, in turn, gives the plant’s roots their valuable nutrients. It is good to remember that the mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out as quickly and from overheating. Some plants, such as fuchsias and cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base just to stave off the cold.
Provide winter protection to built-in sprinkler systems by
first turning off the automatic controller and then
turning off the water to the system at the street or backflow prevention device, and then remember to drain it if your system has a drain.
Prune your roses back about one-third height just to prevent winter wind damage. If they are not tall and do not present a potential hazard of blowing over or breaking then do not worry about this step.
If moss is appearing in your lawn it may mean you have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility or soil compaction or all of these. Use a lawn moss killer if you want to keep the grass looking thick and lush. Of course, you may decide to ultimately shrink the size of your lawn next to the shade-causing trees or structures. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what that might look like while you are not busy mowing it!
Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean and oil tools and equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib. In really cold weather, if they have not been both drained properly they might burst!
Now is the best time to lime the lawn: 50-80 lbs. per thousand square feet.
Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer if you did not do it last month.
Great time to purchase Paperwhite Narcissus for the holidays by indoor forcing. They will bloom approximately 5 weeks from the time that you start them in a container indoors.
Great time to plant new landscape trees and shrubs, or to transplant.
Good time to prune the plants which bloomed in late summer.
There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but don’t delay.
Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during heavy rains; drains/French drains and ditches are possible solutions.
You may lightly fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas now, for better green-up in the spring. Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. Make sure the soil is moist when you fertilize and do not overdo!
Always remove leaves from the lawn as soon as you can. Leaves left on lawns can quickly damage a lawn! If the leaves are moved into the beds they will act like a good free mulch and they will NOT hurt the plants at all.

Advanced Gardening tips:

Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area with moderate humidity.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around base of trees.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall). This is a good time to cut and root Rhododendrons and Camellias; root Begonias from leaf cuttings.
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden areas.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and/or compost.
Rake and compost leaves. A three to four-inch layer of leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
If you have a hedge of Arborvitaes, consider tying up limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives or even flowers for the dark rainy season.

Mulch, Schmultz

Thu, 10 Oct 2019 21:57:00 GMT

Yesterday I walked with two clients while discussing their harshly sterile, bare, sloping side yard. Soil was eroding down onto the public sidewalk. It was slippery and muddy and very unattractive.

One of them brought up the idea of a nice boulder retaining wall set next to the sidewalk, which would help to hold back the soil.

The other remarked, “But that would cost a lot of money and we are not ready to spend that right now, even though it might solve a lot of the problem with our sloping, ugly side yard, and would look good to the neighbors.”

The slope was not so steep that it would not be walkable, and they could have installed a lawn to hold the soil back from washing onto the sidewalk. However, they did not want to plant grass. The idea of mowing a sloping side lawn, which they would not use, did not appeal to them. I suggested a much less expensive option of placing a 2—3 inch layer of bark mulch on the bare soil.

They wondered what I meant by mulch.

Mulch is any material placed on the ground which, when spread around in a fairly uniform layer, will insulate, protect or enrich the soil. Examples of mulch are: leaves, tree bark, compost, shredded paper, wood chips, wood shavings, shredded cardboard or nut hulls/shells.

Here are some examples:

Compost mulch will enrich the soil by feeding its resident population of micro flora and fauna, preventing the bare soil from eroding, helping to retain moisture in the dry periods and suffocating weeds. It is a temporary fix, however, because most good compost will be quickly broken down and eaten by the micro flora and fauna. Its nutritional benefits will then be available to the roots of the plants underground, but the erosion protection, the retention of moisture and, particularly, the positive effect of the weed suffocation will be gone very quickly. It is a common mulch used around plants with a final layer of bark mulch placed on top.

Leaf mulch is, as you may guess, a collection of fall leaves that will quite possibly last the winter and into early spring. They will provide erosion protection during the rainy season and, if they last long enough, into the early part of the dry season they will provide moisture retention as well. However, leaf mulch is also generally somewhat temporary. Shredded fall leaves or thinly placed grass clippings are excellent as far as nutrition goes, but it has an even shorter life span because this product is the most delicious to micro flora and fauna. The plus side is that feeding the micro flora and fauna will feed your plants!

Straw mulch/hay mulch is occasionally available as an option. It is moderately slow to break down, but it carries many, many seeds. Therefore, it might best be used in a large commercial setting where there is a large expanse of soil that needs to be protected from erosion, but the owner is not picky about every kind of meadow plant imaginable germinating everywhere. This is not a product ever recommended for suburban planting beds.

Bark mulches can be excellent on all accounts and comes in various colors, grind sizes and tree types.

Fir Bark types: The most common type is fresh Douglas fir. It is reddish in color and slow to break down. It is the least expensive of the bark products. The micro flora and fauna must work hard to break it down and, as they do, they extract nitrogen from the air and soil. That’s why, with this type of bark, you’ll need to use a fertilizer with nitrogen to keep your plant leaves from yellowing. Another negative aspect of Douglas fir bark is its tendency to be splintery. Dark fir bark has less splinters than fresh and is a dark blackish red. This is because it is already partially broken down and is not fresh from the tree. Therefore, it does not rob as much nitrogen from the soil, but of course it also does not last as long.
Bark nuggets are usually derived from pine bark and provide the same results as red Doug fir bark, but do not offer any splinters. Some people like this look, but one must place it rather thickly to provide good moisture retention during the dry season; as there are usually no smaller parts to create a sealing blanket, just bigger chunks. It is more expensive in the Willamette Valley than the other bark products since it is normally trucked in from eastern Oregon.
Hemlock bark , either fresh or dark, is another option. It has almost no splinters. As in all bark products it can be found as fresh or dark, and in either a fine, medium or coarse grind. Grind refers to the average size of the material itself. Fine has a very smooth look on the ground but can wash or blow away, as well as break down more easily than medium or coarse grinds. Medium is the most common as it has a mix of fine, medium and some coarse. Coarse grind appears very chunky on the surface of the soil but is the slowest to break down. Again, fresh hemlock breaks down more slowly than dark hemlock bark. Winterbloom’s most commonly requested mulch is medium dark hemlock, as it seems to have the best of all qualities. It is also the most expensive of all the bark products.

Nut hulls such as filbert (Hazelnut) shells may be used as a mulch. In the Willamette Valley this is most available from filbert orchards or nut drying operations. It is a product that breaks down very slowly and is often used for paths as an organic option to crushed gravel. It has a coarse texture. A more expensive, but very fragrant and tempting product, is cocoa bean hulls. It has been found, however, to be attractive to dogs. As it can damage their intestines, it is now being discouraged as a mulch for dog owners.

Chips are not an uncommon mulch. It is the coarsely chopped debris derived from tree or shrub removal. How long it lasts depends on whether it has a higher concentration of wood or of leaves. I have found that it is very similar in effect, but not look, to fresh fir bark. It does not have the fine splinters of fir but it also does not have fir’s nice uniform effect; rather a wild tousled appearance with many textures and sizes. Winterbloom generally uses this only to mulch natural areas or for woodland paths. We do not generally use it in suburban planting beds.

Cedar or wood shavings from a wood or lumber mill is another option for a mulch. It breaks down very slowly and is quite soft in function and appearance. It is often used as a surface for play areas as it is not splintery or rough. It is not used as a mulch in suburban planting beds.

Garden mulch from a recycle yard is also a common mulch that is very reasonably priced for planting beds. It is the ground and partially composted debris from city and suburban yards. It is black in color, has more of an odor than the bark products, but breaks down a little faster than the medium dark hemlock.
The composts, chips, garden mulch and all the types of bark may be blown onto planting beds. This is an easier way to spread the mulch versus using wheelbarrows, rakes, forks and shovels. It is also more economical than paying a landscaper to do the same task. Also, if you use a reputable company to blow in the mulch, they will generally clean up well and only the smallest, most fragile plants may be damaged or killed. These should be temporarily protected with overturned pots by you, the homeowner or designer.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for October

Thu, 10 Oct 2019 21:06:00 GMT

September and October are my two favorite months of the year. This is because we usually still have several dry days but cooler nights, and the rain that we do have makes things smell amazing. When the sun shines it feels magical through the colored leaves on the trees!

Plant spring bulbs now.
The end of October is usually the time that we stop mowing, soon it will get cool enough that the lawn will stop growing. Occasionally there is a fall when the lawn needs a mow or two in November.
This is the perfect time of year to bait for slugs during rainy periods. This will keep them from making more babies for spring!
Weed, weed, weed as they are still little and just sprouting from the recent rains!
Keep your leaves raked off or blown off the lawn to prevent smothering/damaging the grass. Keep them off the concrete so that they will not stain it. They can be blown into the beds as they are good for the soil and you will not have to spread bark mulch!
Spread bark mulch now over any areas that may be exposed this winter where you are not using fall leaves instead. This will prevent erosion and keep weeds from growing.
This is a great month to transplant shrubs.
This is a wonderful time of the year to plant new plants! Often, they are on sale!
Mulch tender plants: fuchsias, cannas, dahlias and callas.

For the more serious gardeners among us:

Pick green tomatoes and ripen indoors if frost threatens.
It is time to harvest the following popular vegetables! Keep them cool, dry and in an unlit area above freezing and below 50 degrees:
Pull and dry onions for storage.
Harvest sunflower heads; use for birdseed or roast for a healthy, crunchy snack food.
Dig and store potatoes.
Harvest and store apples.
Harvest squash and pumpkins and store.
Harvest and immediately dry filberts and walnuts; dry at 95-100 degrees F.
Spray peach trees using copper fungicides for diseases such as Peach leaf curl and Coryneum blight; spray cherry and prune trees for bacterial canker with copper spray.
Dig and store geraniums and tuberous begonias and put near your garage window. They need to be above freezing all winter but with just the absolute minimum of water.
Propagate the following flowers by stem-cuttings: chrysanthemums, fuchsias and geraniums, and keep them where they will not get direct light but somewhere that it will also not freeze.
Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.
Harvest the saffron from your saffron crocuses.
Early October: begin manipulating light to force Christmas cactus to bloom in late December.
Store any garden chemicals and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out of the reach of children.
Clean and prepare the greenhouse for winter gardening activities.
Bait and trap moles. This is a most challenging undertaking. I have learned that one of the best techniques is using crushing tunnel line traps. Ugh!
Rake and destroy the disease-infested leaves of apple, cherry, rose, keep the rest of the leaves as compost!

My Favorite Hardy Fuchsias and How to Grow Them

Mon, 09 Sep 2019 19:52:00 GMT

Hardy Fuchsias are work horses in the Western Oregon landscape. They bloom and thrive from June to the first hard frost, below 27°F, in December or January. They love our Spring weather, then slowdown in the heat of Summer and perk up in the Fall. During September and October they are usually in their prime. They prefer morning sun and afternoon shade, but can all take full sun if it is not a reflected sun from concrete or rocks. They prefer growing up among other plants to keep the humidity up.

I use Beacon Rosa where we need a nice, consistent medium-pink bloom of both petals and sepals. They contrast well with the blue of Agapanthus, pale yellows and whites. I think that they look great with a soft Orange. This bush gets about 2' tall.

Baby Blue Eyes is a vigorous grower, getting about 4' tall. Its downward petaled skirt is closer to a true blue than Mrs. Popple, and the upward sepals are a cherry red. It looks great in a row or as a single bush.

White Knight’s Perle has pale pink to white petals and the sepals. It is vigorous and takes the most heat of all three plants. The blooms are like pale pink icicles hanging on the dark green branches.

In September, take some tips of the Fuchsias that you want to keep and put them in potting soil in a pot. P lace the pot in a plastic bag and do not open it or put it in direct sunlight but do place it somewhere that it will receive some light. Leave it for a month or so and then check to see if sprouts are coming up. If they are, take off the plastic and give them light fertilizer and keep them from freezing until they are a nice size. If they are not ready, put the plastic on for another month. Next Spring plant them where you want them to grow.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for September

Mon, 09 Sep 2019 19:24:00 GMT

Changes are happening! We see trees beginning to turn color. School is beginning for students. This changes commutes and schedules for everyone. Fall will be upon us on the 23rd of this month. Things are cooling off at night so it is a good time to consider:

Slacking off on watering in your beds and lawn, but monitor your soil. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weeding: this is continuous but of course nothing like March through May!
Planting plants, renovating or planting new lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold in late October and November.
Fertilizing with your final regular lawn fertilizer application (we recommend a special Fall/Winter mix for November).
Baiting for slugs: get them while they are thirsty!
Trimming off those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown. They make things look messy.
Preparing the compost pile for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees this fall.
Using a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
Spraying for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bringing houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out into October.
Taking cuttings of your favorite Rhododendron or Fuchsia to start new ones for 2020!

In the Vegetable Garden It Is Time To:

Pick and store winter squash, if ready. This is usually late in September.
Pick tomatoes and potatoes.
Prepare compost piles for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees.
This is the last month to plant your winter vegetable gardens west of the Cascades. The options are winter hardy: Kale, Brussels Sprouts, different Italian greens, Broccoli, Raab, Turnips, Cabbage and many more.

How to Over Seed Your Lawn:

The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/May.

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a leaf rake or a hard rake if necessary.
Sprinkle some seed over the bare areas. Cover it about ¼" deep with a grass seed mulch.
Wait about a month to see what happens. If green tiny shoots, like dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears, or not enough to create happiness, repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of seed in a cool place like the garage over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)

Rock Gardening

Fri, 09 Aug 2019 22:04:00 GMT

“Hi, my name is Dale. I’m a plantaholic.”

“Hi, Dale!”

I LOVE plants, I can’t get enough of them. I like to say I’m passionate, but it really is more than that. If you’ve ever seen a big guy at a nursery, clutching his pearls and letting out a big “SQUEEE” at the sight of a new plant, it was probably me! I find great joy in talking about and to my plants…heh.*

I enjoy finding small micro climates in my garden to grow a wide variety of plants. For example, some of the plants I would consider to be marginally hardy in the Pacific NW, due to our high levels of precipitation, thrive under the protection of my west facing eve.

Graptopetahum nad Graptoveria living happily under the west-facing eve.

As you start to look for these little micro climates around the garden you begin to see them everywhere. I find myself wondering, "What could I plant in the cracks of this flagstone?"

Creating beds with good drainage and boulders to provide radiant heat seemed like the obvious next step in my gardening and plant addiction, since I was quickly running out of space under the eves. Which brings me to Rock Gardening.

I have several styles of rock gardens. In this post, I’m going to talk about two of my gardens: my Crevice Garden and my Dry Bed.

In my more natural looking Dry Bed I tried to emulate a rocky, desert environment. I started with a mix of sandy loam placed in a berm—for good drainage—and edged the area with boulders to hold everything in its place. I set boulders and rocks into the berm until it was both aesthetically pleasing and beneficial to the plants I planned to include.

I then spot amended the soil depending on each plant’s needs, experimenting and creating small habitats for each plant as I went along. If a plant wanted better drainage, I would incorporate some pumice. More organic matter if the plant desires more moisture. Most of the Agaves planted in this bed are planted at an angle (so water doesn’t collect as easily in the crown) and on the downhill side of small boulders that can both sheet water away from the root zone of the plants and offer some additional radiant heat in our cold winter months. Gravel mulch is helpful in dry beds and rock gardens: it drains and dries quickly so the leaves of plants don’t sit on wet bark mulch or soil. I chose decomposed granite for my mulch as it fit the aesthetic I was looking for.

Agave perryi 'Flagstaff and Grevillea x gaudichaudii growing happily in my dry bed.

Yucca rostrata, Puya dickyoidies, Euphorbia rigida and Pacificia Iris all benefit from the growing conditions in this dry bed.

Crevice Gardens

Crevice Gardens have been increasing in popularity over the years and have provided me with a new and creative twist on rock gardening. Take a look at the very nice crevice garden installation at the Denver Botanical Gardens in this article in High Country Gardens . Instead of placing boulders into a bed, flat stone is placed into the bed vertically and relatively close to each other. The stone (various other materials can be used such as urbanite) is placed deep into the planting media to create deep crevices, much like an alpine plant would be accustomed to growing in. The soil and media used is usually faster draining, but this will depend on the type of plants you want to grow. Crevice gardens are a great place to showcase smaller plants that may get lost or not thrive elsewhere in the garden. They can be as large or as small as you want. They can be created in containers or troughs, old bathtubs, sinks, you name it, as long as you have good drainage.

For my crevice garden I started with a base of sandy loam soil mixed with pumice and gravel. My friends had just finished installing a patio using an imported black flagstone from India and offered me the remnants to use. I edged the garden with grey basalt boulders and started filling in the crevices with plants. Since it is sometimes difficult to find plants small enough to try to plant in those narrow crevices, I have decided I want to try growing many of the plants I plan to incorporate by seed—or other means of propagation—with, of course, the exception of those “Squee!” I’ve got to have these discoveries.

I have decided to include some plants that will need more winter protection such as the Dyckia you see on the left of this image.

Raoulia australis is an alpine plant from New Zealand that forms a flat may over the ground and rocks. Perfect plant for a crevice garden but not the easiset to get to establish.

If you decide to create a crevice or rock garden, have fun with it. Get creative and don’t be afraid to propagate your own plants, especially with those little treasures that may be hard to find.

*In an article appearing in the summer 2019 issue of The Rock Garden Quarterly , issued by the North American Rock Garden Society ( NARGS ), author and self-professed plantaholic, Anna Leggatt, writes about growing bulbs in lawns as a way to expand the areas she is able to plant in. She digs deeply into the lengths that we plant addicts will go to satisfy our need for new plants. Thank you, Anna!

Dale Hickey is a guest writer who works for Winterbloom, and you can find more of his writing at bearandbriar.blogspot.com .

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for August

Fri, 02 Aug 2019 17:57:00 GMT

Weed. There should be far fewer because it is dry, so they are not as inclined to sprout.
Mow regularly. Continue at your chosen higher setting for the summer months.
Make sure to water those plants which need a drink. The best time to water is in the early morning so that it does not evaporate as quickly or blow away in the breeze. Generally, one inch a week is good for the lawn. Use up to two inches if it has been really hot and dry. The plant beds will need half that amount of water.
If you planted some new plants this Spring, remember to augment their watering by hand , in addition to the irrigation they receive. The irrigation system is probably not enough water and you do not want to turn it up as you may over-water all the rest of your plants!
Monitor veggie garden irrigation closely so that crops do not dry out.
Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli, while harvesting to maintain production. Harvest vegetables when ripe to stimulate further production.
Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables, Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a bacterial disease of the Caterpillars and won’t harm other creatures, including you.
Use mulch to protect the soil around ornamentals and garden plants from hot weather damage.
For spider mite control on some ornamentals, such as Arborvitae hedges, hose off their foliage, once a month, once a day, for three days in a row,. Arborvitae hedges are the most susceptible to spider mite damage and, not uncommonly, death.
You may also want to consider controlling outdoor fleas with spray this month if you have outdoor pets.

Moisture: Drought or Xerophytic

Tue, 02 Jul 2019 20:10:00 GMT

Drought Tolerant Plants or Plants Which Exhibit Xerophytic Attributes in Our Climate

We have an entire section of our garden which does not receive any augmented water unless someone hand waters. A part of this section of our garden is on a busy traffic corner and receives a lot of wind and sun. It never receives any augmented water and the soil is 50% gravel. Most of our weeds do not like to grow there.

In November 2005 I excitedly planted a small piece of a poppy directly into the gravel on a rainy wet day and poured water over it. It has since grown into what is now, in the heat of the dry season, about a 5' tall by 10' wide by 5' deep clump of exuberant foliage and bloom. It is called Romneya coulteri, whose common names are many: Matilija Poppy, Fried Egg Plant, Fire Poppy and more. In our climate it dies to the ground in a cold winter, and in a mild winter it looks very ragged but could be called evergreen. The foliage is blue-green and succulent. I cut it to the ground every January and it grows back beautifully each spring, bursting into bloom in June and then blooming sporadically into August.

This amazingly beautiful plant can be propagated two ways:

by digging a section of root with a sprout on it, transplanting it immediately and giving it just enough water to survive but not so much that it would rot. (This has limited success. I tried it several times before it took.)
by passing the seed pod and seeds over flame or heat and then sprouting the seeds. (This is tricky, and I have yet to succeed.)

This plant can grow, spread and bloom beautifully with no irrigation system and no dry season water. It is from the desert southwest of the USA, where it resprouts after a fire, giving it the name Fire Poppy. The 6" wide blooms consist of large white petals with bright yellow centers, giving it the name Fried Egg plant. People walking by on the road often stop to ask me what it is.

Drought tolerance varies a great deal. I have said that this plant never needs water in the dry season and wants to be in full blazing sun. However, there are many plants which can survive the summer with no augmented water. Most of our West Coast native plants are in this category.

Some of these drought tolerant plants can only survive in the shade without water. Two examples of this are Polystichum munitum (our Western Sword Fern) and Mahonia nervosa (our lowest growing Oregon Grape). They can both be found naturally growing around the base of large Doug Fir Trees receiving no water during the summer months.

There is Cornus sericea, our native Red Twig Dogwood. Once established, it can grow in full sun with no water or in marshy soil all year long.

All three plants can handle a little augmented water in the dry season.

Some drought tolerant native plants, such as most species of Ceanothus and most species of Arctostaphylos, simply cannot tolerate any summer water when it is hot. They can handle a little moisture on a cloudy, cool day in the dry season or summer.

All the named plants above, however, need augmented water to get through their first dry season or summer in our climate. The best time to plant all of them is not in the summer or spring, but in the fall. Fall, winter or the rainy season is the best time to plant any shrubs, trees of perennials in our climate. However, on a cool and cloudy day during their first summer, some augmented water always helps to secure a surer survival for even the Matilija Poppy.

Any plant which is planted during the dry season with an existing irrigation system in place will need augmented water. Many people do not understand this and wonder why the new plant which they planted in May in their irrigated garden died. That is because irrigation systems are meant to be a way to maintain plants. They must have additional water to get them to root out into the soil. When they arrive in their pots their roots are bound by the plastic. They have learned to circle the pot. When planted, it takes them some time to discover that the soil around them is not a pot, that they can grow into it and seek out moisture. Adding moisture around their root zone when planted assures that they receive enough water to root out into the surrounding soil.

When we as a company plant any plant, we puddle it in no matter what time of the year it is. Translated, this means that one waters the plant and its surrounding root zone until the soil puddles. This action assures that the soil settles in down around the roots and that there are no large air pockets which could cause the roots to dry out. It allows the surrounding soil to adhere to the soil of the new root mass. Unless it is drenching rain when planting, it is not enough water to perform this important task.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for July

Tue, 02 Jul 2019 20:10:00 GMT

We have now entered the traditionally driest and warmest month of the year, west of the Cascade Mountains. It is timely to think of these time-honored tips.

Prune any of your shrubs right after they have bloomed if it is needed.
Keep up weeding. Now it should be much easier as one simply has to lift the baby weeds and let them dry to death on the ground, disappearing in the hot sun.
This is the month to fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
The lawn height should be at the highest setting on the mower that you can tolerate. (A lot of people want to see lawns set at “golf green” elevation, about ¼" high.) This does not work on home lawns as no homeowners that I know maintain their lawns to the degree that golf courses do. You will kill your lawn trying to do this!
Lawns (probably) need one inch of water per week this month.
Check for root weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas. They leave nasty notches on the leaves. Use nematodes for the larvae in the ground or use sticky traps for the adults.
Mulch—if you have not already—to conserve soil moisture, using bark or other organic products.
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites) and wash infested areas with water. Pick a time when you can drench them once a day for three days in a row . Repeat this same practice each month during the dry season. In other words, act like a heavy summer rain and rain on their parade!
You may dig spring bulbs when tops have died down. (Divide and store or replant if overcrowded.)
Stake tall growing perennials as needed.
End of month: prune boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
Mound soil up around the base of potatoes, gather and eat a few new potatoes from each hill.
Go ahead and plant mid-summer selections of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce and kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family and carrot family (including zinnias, marigolds and Jerusalem artichokes).
Stake your tomatoes, watch for blight (prune for air circulation and pick off affected leaves).
This is a good month to check those areas of your real estate which get little to NO water this time of the year (which maybe does not have plants, or where plants just will not grow). You can consider planting drought tolerant (Xerophytic) plants there so that it is NOT bare next year! We will talk about that in our next two blogs.

The Tomato Effect

Thu, 23 May 2019 19:16:00 GMT

I found myself in line at the Nursery counter on a sunny, late March day. It was one of those wonderfully beautiful days that occasionally happen to us in late winter. There was a light, warm breeze causing the temperature to hover around 70 degrees Fahrenheit. Everyone in western Oregon was feeling the beckoning of nature to come out and enjoy!

I was having a daydream about what type of slug bait I should purchase when I heard a voice over the top of the patient line of gardeners say, “Where are your tomatoes? I did not find any on the tables.”

I was somewhat shocked but held my voice, thinking that I would listen to what the sales person at the nursery would reply! (Under my breath I was going to say, “The tomatoes that you are seeking are still seeds, just now being sown in greenhouses somewhere in the Willamette valley. They will appear sometime in early May in this nursery in order to be planted in late May in the ground. They would not grow or most likely slowly die if one planted them outside now.”)

The sales person slowly replied, “The tomatoes are not here yet, there is still a potential for a killing frost. We do have tomato seeds here in packets on the wall if you want to start them that way.”

The person requesting the plants said he would look elsewhere for the plants.

As I pondered this person’s comment, I thought, “We as a present, contemporary group of humans are FAR removed from our agricultural roots.”

Any great-grandmother or great-grandfather of any one of us who are now standing in this line would know that tomatoes should not be planted until the ground is warm enough for them to thrive. This magic moment for tomato planting in the Willamette Valley is normally the last week of May or the first week of June.

The virtual world, which is so available to the average person on the street, makes us feel that tomatoes and about every other type of food is available—if we have enough money. And we demand to have it now! If we can purchase the fruits in the grocery store then why can’t we plant it in our yard right now?

We must decide to share what we know in order to feed us efficiently from our gardens and find out what will grow and multiply in our climate. The cycle of life and weather will teach us through the school of hard knocks, if it is not communicated to us by another human! There is always something new to learn in this field and now, since it is no longer a part of growing up in America for 99 percent of us, most of this information must be leaned as a full-grown adult!

I call this human experience the “Tomato effect.”

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for June

Thu, 23 May 2019 19:02:00 GMT

June is the BIG month for Western Oregon and Washington gardeners to finish planting their veggie and berry gardens! Summer starts the 21st of June, which means sunshine is most effective now because it is close to vertical in the sky, giving the most food possible to the plants. Remember that the sun is your plants’ food. Fertilizer is not, sunshine is the food of photosynthesizing plants!

This is the best month to plant the warm season annuals —flowers or vegetables: petunias, impatiens, eggplants, tomatoes, peppers, corn, basil, cucumbers, etc.
Mow regularly . Set your lawn mower at your favorite high setting for the rest of the summer until October. Keeping the grass longer during the hot months helps to shade the roots and keep the grass greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is basically over and there will soon be less weeds to pull! You can simply toss the weeds (ones that are not going to seed) out in the sunny part of the bed and they will dry up right there by the end of the day and not reroot! Don’t do this on a rainy cloudy day as they just might strike root and grow again!
Water everything as needed , one inch per week at minimum for the lawn, and half an inch for the shrubs. This is a standard rule of thumb for an average, warm, dry June week.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Try to use pet-safe bait.
If it is needed, prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they bloom.
Check the Rhodies and Azaleas to see if you need to do any weevil control, such as nematodes or insect tape. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look hideous. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called Green or Brown Lace Wings. One can purchase the eggs of these predators locally.
If you want to make your Rhodies bloom more and look neater, it is time to dead head them.
Continue to take care of codling moths and scab on apples and pears. Check with the Oregon State University Extension Service ( https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ ) to see how often they need to be treated.
It is time to thin out the little fruits on pears and apples. If you leave too many, you will have little fruits and they might become too heavy break off the branches!
Spray for fruit flies on cherries. Check with the OSU Extension Service: https://extension.oregonstate.edu/ .
Check for aphids and cabbage worms on veggies or roses. If needed, choose your method of action.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for May

Fri, 03 May 2019 21:20:00 GMT

I thought we were going to have a dry and chilly spring after the first two-thirds of March! That was a daily challenge with frosts and the potentiality of a snow. I covered up exposed plants daily. However, we went from covering tender plants at that time to now being concerned that the tender young things might drown! Wow!

Tips and Tricks:

It is time to purchase your tender annuals and plant outside in your pots or flower beds. (But NOT the tropical ones like tomatoes and basil because they will just sit there and pout, rot or drown.)
Begin moderate watering if the rain is not enough. Soak once every two weeks, more often if things turn dry.
Fertilize lawn with a natural fertilizer (non-petrochemical).
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower one setting higher than last month.
If you actually need it, thatch and renovate your lawn only. We have found that if we use totally natural fertilizer—not petroleum derivatives—we have never yet needed to do this step. The earthworms seem to take care of the dead grass and stems called thatch and keep our ground fairly free-draining.
Weeds, always pull up the ones that are going to seed first and then get what you can of the others. They can often wait till another day if you do not have the time today. Five-minute weeding is critical!
Begin root weevil control. You may use nematodes, DE (diatomaceous earth) or sticky traps on trunks of plants.
Fertilizer, normally the composting litter placed all around on the ground underneath rhododendrons, azaleas and all shrubs, is enough. I do not fertilize any of these plants unless they look stressed, and then I use Alaska Fish Fertilizer .
Plant chrysanthemums now for perennial fall color.
Control aphids by washing the foliage with soap suds, removing by hand or by promoting natural predators such as ladybugs and lacewings.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of shiny, black beetles on cabbage and potatoes indicate flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (bacillus Thuringensis), soapy water; pick them off if you can find them, or all the above.
Control slugs with bait, salt or by smashing. There is always the beer method, where one gets them soused and they drown in their own drink!
Begin liquid fertilizing of annuals. Natural organic fertilizer is best.
Prune plants that really need it after they flower this month.
Later in the month, plant these warm season vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, egg plants, snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, onions and potatoes.
Spray fruit, nut and shade trees for tent caterpillars, if present.

Get out there and do it!

Overwintering Plants in The Western Part of The PNW

Fri, 26 Apr 2019 21:29:00 GMT

You purchased some very fun plants in the fall and you have not had time to get them in the ground and you hear that cold weather is coming. In pots, plants are much more vulnerable to cold than if they were in the ground. When a new plant is inserted into the soil the surrounding earth becomes a sort of blanket and a great protection from the cold air. If the pot is out in the cold air then it has no protection. If one wants to risk leaving it outside and it is an evergreen conifer it is probably just fine. Evergreen conifers are usually very tough and hardy and do not need to be overwintered in a greenhouse.

However, if the air is windy and very cold it probably needs to be rethought a bit. Any hardy evergreen out in the cold wind and air is still alive, growing and releasing moisture out of its needles. The soil in the pot may become frozen and then the water cannot be absorbed by the plant’s roots. In this case one needs to water the plant at the warmest part of the day so that the plant can replace some of its moisture which has been released to the cold, windy air, or the plant can totally become dehydrated and die. If it is a more tender evergreen, setting the pot directly into a deep bed of bark mulch helps to mimic the insulation of the earth it wants.

If it is a hardy, deciduous shrub or plant that you have in the pot, it is not transpiring. Since deciduous means it has no leaves, one can probably just let it set out there in the wind and the cold. That is what happens in a nursery.

The problem comes if you have a non or just partially hardy plant. Then you know that you must do something. Here are two options:

If you have a greenhouse, use it but make sure that it stays above 32 degrees overnight by placing a small heater in it. During the day the sun will warm the space but again the temperature will drop as soon as it gets dark. Knowing if it will freeze overnight is critical in this situation.
If you do not have a greenhouse then the garage becomes a handy home. Make sure that it stays above 32 degrees and get it back outside when the weather is not so cold.

Most plants that we use in our summer colorful pots are not hardy and often people do not realize that. I have been asked, how do you know if a plant is hardy? That is an easy thing. When you purchase a plant look at the tag. If it says Zone 7 or a larger number, in the western part of the NW it needs to be protected from frosts in the winter if in a pot. If it says zone 6 or smaller it may be hardy enough to not have to be protected. Many perennials, such as Peonies, say zone 4. They are totally dormant and have no visible foliage and are totally hardy outside in a pot. If there is no hardiness rating shown on the plant tag, ask the nursery owner. If the plant is tropical then the only way to keep it through the winter is to bring it into your home. If it is small and very special then this should be fine. If it is big then this may not be a good idea.

Watering in Spring

Tue, 02 Apr 2019 19:46:00 GMT

It is commonly said that we have plenty of rain for the plants in spring, here in western Oregon. However, often that is not true.

Many plants do most, or all, of their growth for the entire year in the months of April, May and early June. Rhododendrons are an example of that type of plant. If April and May are dry and you have an irrigation system and you have been delaying turning it on because you think that it rained last night, you might be in error. Often it mists or rains a little, but it does not get down to the roots of the plants where it counts! If a Rhododendron is actively blooming or growing, it uses a lot of water. Therefore, if it does not rain heavily, that water is not replaced until you turn on the irrigation system or hand water it. This sudden drought when your plant is trying to put on growth can stress it enough that the foliage may be eaten more by insects or hit by diseases and then look bad the rest of the year.

Yes, the weather is generally much cooler in the spring as opposed to the summer, but often we get east winds which can dry out the soil prematurely. As I am writing this in March, it is sunny and dry with a strong east wind. The ground has become somewhat dry here! I intend to turn on my irrigation system shortly but have not yet, because, like many of you, I am still a bit on the scared side because of our cold and snow-forecasted February! I will face my fears and turn it on NOW!

The easiest way to check to see how the ground around your growing plants is doing is to use a Hori-Hori or a trowel and dig down a few inches to check soil moisture in various spots. If it is hard to dig near your plants then it is probably too dry, and you need to water the individual plant. Its roots have sucked the moisture out the soil by using it to grow, and thus they have made the ground hard.

They need water!

This method of checking the soil is a good one. An easier method is to simply know your plants well enough to observe if the leaves have lost their turgidity and are getting a bit limp. That is also a quick indicator, but you need to be intimate with your plants to notice!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for April

Tue, 02 Apr 2019 19:38:00 GMT

The last half of sunny, warm, dry March was such a reversal of cold, dry, frosty February weather that it is hard to predict what we will receive in April! I am hoping for a warmer yet wetter month. The ground is asking for water again!

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of April, based on past Aprils:

Bait for slugs (and snails)! If you do not like to purchase bait, remember that beer can act as bait, placed in a shallow bowl. Replace it after a rain or when it fills up with dead slug bodies.
If you live where deer can munch, it is time to put out whatever you have used in the past that is successful!
Weed regularly now . This will pay off later because you killed them before they bloomed, set seed and multiplied.
Mow weekly and set your lawnmower higher than March. If you mow this month for the very first time, you should set it at the very lowest setting to wake up the grass. This might take two cuts to get it to work right.
Leave the foliage of spring flowering bulbs! Only cut off the seedpods after the blooms are finish ed . (The foliage needs to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms.) I recommend waiting to cut the foliage until it is an ugly yellow-brown.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees but wait until right after the blossoms fade .
It is time to plant gladiolas and dahlias bulbs for summer bloom.
It is time to purchase and plant starts of Rhubarb, Potatoes and Asparagus if you have not already done so.
Prepare the veggie garden for spring planting.
These vegetables may be planted this month when your garden is ready: Peas, Broccoli, Cabbage, Carrots, Cauliflower, Celery, Chard, Chives, Endive, Kohlrabi, Leeks, Lettuce, Onion sets, Parsnips, Radishes and Turnips.
Some early broccoli varieties that I have found successful are: Green Comet and Waltham 29.
Check strawberries for spittlebugs and aphids; if present, wash them off.
If spraying for apple scab, use lime/sulfur.
Control rose diseases such as black spot and mildew by removing all infected leaves, and prune for air circulation if you have not already.

Cyclamen Coum

Fri, 01 Mar 2019 23:11:00 GMT

On a rainy, cold day in the winter of 1982, I found myself having been laid off my job. Life in general was very discouraging as I had a wife, two small daughters and not enough money to go around. I was starting a part-time, minimum wage job at a nursery. We were only able to pay the interest on our mortgage. My wife had just started to clean homes. While walking in the old part of our neighborhood with my eldest daughter (four years old at the time), scrounging for bottles to get cash for milk, I found an old house with the most marvelous, cheery little plant blooming. It was late January and there was frost on its cute, rounded, dark green leaves. I did not know what it was, but I determined I would find out.

I knocked on the door and an elderly lady peered through the window. When she saw my daughter holding my hand she opened the door. I asked her about the plants. She beamed and walked outside with me. She said that they were Winter blooming Cyclamen, called Cyclamen coum. I asked if I could have a start of them. She said that she could give me one bulb, but she did not want to part with many because they were slow to get established. She said that she had started that patch several years ago and it was now about a 4’ circle. She told me of a nursery where I could go and purchase more. She carefully dug up one bulb with a few leaves and two blooms attached. My daughter and I hurried home so that we could get it into the ground.

She said to plant it so the top growing point was exactly 1/8" above the surrounding soil. She said, “it needs good drainage, it does not need to be watered because as it goes dormant in the dry, summer season. You will not be able to see it, so put a marker where you planted it so you will remember the location until you have a patch and know where the leaves will come up in November.

I planted it and decided that the bright pink blooms should become the inspiration for our company name and logo. That came true in 1983 when we started the company.

Once a Cyclamen coum has become established in your yard, the best way to create a winter blooming patch of this little plant is by seed. However, to establish them, I recommend planting about six plants. This will not be inexpensive as each one may cost at least $10-$12 for a 4” plant, if you can find them. They are prone to root rot the first season while they are establishing themselves. Water the plants well when you plant them but leave them alone after that.

Once a bulb grows to the size where it will bloom—usually about ½" in diameter—it will set seed for you to increase the patch. The fruit, which holds the seeds, looks like a little brown berry with a coiled stem looking like a spring! As the bulbs grow each season they will set more of these brown berries with coiled stems. The leaves will disappear once the warmer dryer days of late spring and early summer approach, so mark the location! Look at the spot in August and you will see just the little group of “brown berries” with coiled stems where once there were leaves and blooms in Winter.

In September/October, keep watching the berries and very lightly squeeze them to see if they are beginning to ripen. When they are about ready to pop, they will feel a little squishy. Up to that point they are hard round marbles. Once they reach the squishy state watch them every day. When the first one pops open and begins spreading its sticky seeds, carefully harvest all the berries from that plant and put them in an envelope, seal it and place it on your desk till it has all dried out. This takes about a month. Keep checking the rest and see if you can harvest them all. Then when you are ready to place the seeds back in the ground (this must be during the rainy season) determine where you want to create a patch of Cyclamen coum. Just sprinkle them carefully on the worked-up ground and watch for the tiny little single round leaves to appear in about a month or so. That will be your proof that you are beginning your patch!

They can handle it from that point on. Don’t water them. Don’t fertilize them. Let them have leaf duff and the normal forest debris that collects when a little plant is trying to grow in semi-shade. Their only serious enemy, in my experiences with them, have been cats using the dry duff as Kitty Litter!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for March

Fri, 01 Mar 2019 22:59:00 GMT

Spring Is Coming This Month!

On the 20th of this month Spring will officially arrive, really. Despite the rain and clouds, the crocuses and daffodils are popping up and new green leaves are emerging. The Robins have set up their territories and loudly proclaim them at dawn. Our Pacific Chorus Frogs are very active forming a symphony for our neighborhood. They are loudest at night, however, for us it is a relaxing and soothing sound.

Here Are Our Tips and Tricks for March:

Now is the best time to purchase perennial plants at the nursery. Many of them are in 4” size and just ready to grow! 4” is less expensive than #1 containers! As the weather warms, the plants will grow out of those pots and the nurseries must pot them up into #1’s or number #2’s and then the price will increase.
Finish off any of last year’s perennial pruning that you did not get to before the plants begin to sprout!
Continue weeding to prevent weeds from going to seed! Seriously, if you weed now summer, weeding will be a breeze! And if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time.
Continue baiting for slugs.
This is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it before they sprout. If a plant is starting to sprout, it just might be best to leave it and wait for next fall to move it.
Prune your spring-flowering shrubs only after the blossoms fade (if they need it).
Trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished. This keeps them nice and tight and full.
Cut off all Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to open all their new fronds. This is mainly in places where you look at them from a path or a window. Obviously, if you own a woodsy section you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods this way! No one does it out in the forest!
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias and azaleas with compost or, only if necessary, an acid-type fertilizer. (An indicator is that the leaves are yellow.)
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that didn’t get mulched last month.
Lawn-mowing begins; set blade ¾”-1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses. In other words, set it as low as you can without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn after you do this and it might take three tries to get it to the level you want. The grass will be wet and green, and you do not want to clog up your lawn mower!
First application of lawn fertilizer this year after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical) or something like 16-5-5.
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost or 10-10-10.
Prune out dead wood on Raspberries, Blueberries and Gooseberries to keep them from getting too big. Then spread wood shavings and, as needed, manure/compost.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for February

Mon, 04 Feb 2019 20:28:00 GMT

We are getting close to “landscapers’ spring.” February 15 is the official milestone which marks spring in the landscaping business. From this point on, odds are that we will be having increasing calls for jobs to be bid and we won’t have any heavy snow or hard frosts.

This is a great month to get out there in your yard! We will still have some rain of course, but it’s a warmer rain. The following list is a guide to remind you of your options while you’re out there:

It is time to begin baiting for slugs, close to plants that you are waiting to pop up in Spring.
Weed! Now is the time to get them when they are weak, helpless things! Take one section of the yard per weekend and work all the way around the yard this month.
It remains an excellent time to transplant most trees and shrubs.
Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs, bare root (less expensive) or from a container.
Plant perennials and perennial herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage and thyme (remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
Prune fruit trees as needed.
Prune and train grapes.
Prune your roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the best place to purchase self-root roses.
Continue to prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia and/or flowering cherries so you can bring them inside to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis and hydrangea. Do not prune spring-flowering shrubs such as Azaleas and Rhodies! You will cut off the bloom buds!
Consider pruning back Fuchsias and other picky perennials that have not been pruned back yet to about four inches. (We have already cut back all of the other NON-picky perennials here.) This year has not been as cold so far, so our Fuchsias have not really died to the ground. In this kind of situation, I wait till I see how far up the little green buds come out and trim them down to that mark. This Spring we will probably see buds on the stems somewhere. I do this sort of pruning on Fuchsias, Agastache and Salvia since they are all fairly picky about cutting them back too soon.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick. Do this every two years. Compost mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and helps to hold the moisture in the ground during the dry season and prevent erosion in the rainy season.
One should NOT plant into frozen ground or snow covered ground. Wait a few days till it thaws.

For Adventuresome Gardeners:

February is the last month to sow hardy annual wild flower seeds on the ground. The best month is November. The last two weeks of February is the best time to plant starts of these hardy annual wild flower seeds. That is because it is after the last hard frosts but before the air and soil warm up too much for the little plant starts to get rooted properly. Two examples of this type of Hardy Annual are Clarkia elegans and Eschscholzia californica (California Poppies).
Make cold frames or hotbeds to start early vegetables or flowers, and prepare the soil for growing pots and flats of seedlings.
Plant seeds from the Cole family in your cold frame of plants, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli and Brussel sprouts for future transplanting outdoors.
Apply the first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae. This exact same mix of dormant sprays can be used for other deciduous fruit trees and shrubs, especially certain roses which normally are attacked by disease and insects.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for January

Thu, 10 Jan 2019 00:00:00 GMT

HAPPY 2019!

Today is a bright and sunny day, which caused me to have to scrape some frost off the truck this morning for my first appointment in the dark. To date we have not had a “hard or killing frost”, which is where the temp gets at or below 28 degrees. The rains have been adequate in 2018 but nothing is in flood stage! We are off to a great start in the weather year with ample snow in the mountains in preparation for our summer irrigation needs.

Here are some tips and tricks to accomplish something in your garden in January:

It is time to plan out and commence with your winter pruning! CLICK HERE for a blog on this subject.

This is a great time for transplanting. It should not be done when the temp is below freezing! Generally, this is not a problem because the average human is not interested in transplanting unless the ground is soft and moist.
One can actually plant peas now! There are sweet peas (grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or eating peas. Consider if you have a spot in the garden where the ground is prepared. If you procrastinate and wait for warm weather to plant peas their insect and fungus enemies will be ready to jump on them. If you plant them now their enemies are asleep! Plant peas where the soil is well drained and workable. Peas are easy to grow from seeds!
Peas are available as: Shelled peas—this one you eat only the pea itself. Snap peas—this one has a full crisp thick pod of peas inside which are all sweet. One can easily eat pod and all fresh, and it can also be used as a snack—cooked or in salads. Snow peas—this is the one that is normally used for stir-fry dishes. It is a rubbery pod which is picked early before it fills out with the peas.
It is still too early to start most other seeds for spring vegetable plants in the garden or in a cold frame for transplants.
It is very important to water landscape plants underneath wide eaves and in other spots protected from rain. This should be done once a month and they can be monitored until the irrigation is turned on.
Moss appearing in your lawn usually means too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year to decide what to do. Your options are to get rid of the shade or shrink the lawn so that there is less in the shade. Shade is the enemy of grass because it encourages moss, which can quickly out compete lawn if it is a half shade situation. Moss killer is easily applied, however, and if one uses iron oxide then it is not poisonous. If your trees are getting too big and shading the lawn, then the first option might be to either remove the most shaded part of the lawn or remove some of the branches (or a whole tree) to get your lawn performing like you want!
For winter indoor color, gather branches of budding quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries and bring them inside. Mash the bottom of the stems before placing them into a large water-filled vase. The warmth of the house will force early blooming on the stems for beautiful bouquets.
Monitor houseplants for correct watering and feeding; guard against insect infestations, clean dust from leaves. Use a low-level fertilizer like Oxygen Plus. Do NOT overwater this time of the year, it is very easy to do.
It is time to plan out and commence with your winter pruning! CLICK HERE for a blog on this subject.
Check online for ideas and follow up with your local garden/nursery stores and seed catalogs to find seeds and begin planning this year’s veggies and annual flowers. I usually begin daydreaming this time of the year about landscape changes or additions. Garden catalogs are the best solution for this situation!
For our country friends, watch for field mice or vole damage on the lower trunks of trees and shrubs. They can quickly kill young trees or shrubs! Control measures include approved baits, weed control and traps.

Pruning Herbaceous Perennials

Thu, 10 Jan 2019 00:00:00 GMT

A herbaceous perennial is a plant which dies to the ground and then returns from the ground every year, usually in the spring, and is one that is not treated as a bulb—such as Daffodils. When it has finished its mission to produce flowers and seeds, this is usually in the fall, it decides that it is time to put its energy back into its roots. When it does this the top stems, flowers, seed pods, etc. all begin to shrivel, turn brown and look very tattered, shredded and ugly.

I want to use two wonderful herbaceous perennials as examples of plants that can be pruned in January through the month of February:

Echinacea: top photo is in summer and bottom photo is in January

Nepeta = top photo is in summer and bottom photo is in January

Both plants should be pruned down to about 2" stubs. I leave the stubs to remind me that there will be shoots coming up right there in March/April. I can also see where NOT to step on them or mistakenly pull the shoots up thinking that they are weed shoots. I have done both these actions accidentally in the past!

Echinacea: I leave the stems standing upright, with the spent flowers, until January. This is because the spent seed heads provide copious amounts of seeds for seed-eating birds such as Goldfinches and Pine siskins. By the time January arrives the seeds have all fallen out of the flower heads or have been eaten. The stems can easily be cut down and placed in your compost or debris bin. I, however, cut them down and chop them up into 1-3" pieces right in place as this is mimicking what happens in nature. The chopped-up stems become mulch for the roots and it all mixes with the existing bark mulch that I had placed the season before. By the time that May rolls around the mulch has been broken down by soil creatures and becomes compost for the ground.

Nepeta: I leave the stems in the tangle that they are until January. This is for several reasons. The number one reason is that I could have cut them back earlier, but the Holidays happened. I want to trim them when most of the other herbaceous perennials need to be trimmed so that I can take a section of the garden at a time on the weekends till it is all cleaned up. The second reason is because I want to make sure it is dormant and I have squeezed all the purple-blooming goodness out of the plants. As with the Echinacea, one can cut them off to within 2" of the ground and they can easily be placed in your compost or debris bin. Again, I cut them down and chop them up into 1-3" pieces for the same above reasons.

Watering

Tue, 11 Dec 2018 00:00:00 GMT

From my experience, hardiness is a function of both moisture and temperature. We have had more plants perish because of heat and drought from planting them between April 1—October 15 than anything that we have planted during any difficult rainy wet or dry, cold winter between October 16—March 31. My conclusion is that, for planting purposes, having the ground be moist and the air cool and humid, before one plants, offers the very best outcomes.

We usually receive our first soaking rains the last week of October or the first week of November. At that point the temperature also drops to the 40’s and 50’s, making low plant transpiration and high humidity. At that time, any ground (which is not artificially irrigated) is finally being moistened from the top down. It often takes up to a full moth of rain for the moisture to work down deep into the rootzone of the soil. If we can put a watering tube by each plant that we install between October 16—March 31 (of the next year), and someone also makes a point of giving that plant five gallons of water per week between April 1—October 15 (of the subsequent year), the plant should ultimately THRIVE! The tube allows the water to be delivered to the deep working rootzone of the plant. This motivates the plant to continue to root down deeply, helping it to become more drought tolerant.

This is the opposite of watering the surface of the ground which, if not adequate, will not seep down to the deep root zone. This can cause the plant to root solely at the surface, becoming more dependent on surface irrigation water and not rooting deeply. Obviously, plants must be planted when it is advantageous to the human to get the job done. However, we strongly recommend against planting precisely when the temperature is above 95ºF (which is usually associated with low humidity) as this causes high evapotranspiration and often the ground is dry and hard, offering no water supply for the roots. Dry ground can also result in very difficult digging for the humans. We also strongly recommend against planting when the ground is frozen or covered with snow. Any time one plants, without a dependable automatic irrigation system, planting with a tube and watering as recommended and will give one a high possibility of a positive outcome.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for December

Mon, 10 Dec 2018 00:00:00 GMT

Thanksgiving has come and gone. The holiday season is just ahead, which as usual, will be capped off with New Year’s Day, pushing all of us into the next year!

This is a perfect time of the year to transplant or plant, unless the ground is frozen or covered with snow.
Protect new landscape plants (they seem to have a sail, don’t they?) from the wind with staking, guy wires, windbreaks or site selection. If you have tall Roses with little support consider cutting back about half of their sail, making them less vulnerable to blowing over or breaking off in the winds of the rainy season.
Poinsettia care: protect from cold; place in sunlight; don’t let the leaves touch your cold windows; fertilize every three weeks with a mild indoor plant fertilizer; water just to keep moist! Following this regime can keep your Poinsettia blooming most of the winter!
Cut and dip Holly for holiday use. If you dip the cut tips of the branch before you put them in the vase, the berries and the leaves will last longer and not wither or fall off so soon. Holly Dip is available at your local nursery.

Seasonal Yard Care:

Continually rake/blow leaves off the lawn and hard surfaces. Leaves may be left in the beds for an inexpensive mulch. This important action will keep the soil warmer, prevent erosion, feed the micro fauna and flora (which ultimately feeds your plant’s roots, making them happier).
Before your guests come, consider what your guests might look at when arriving at your house for the party or look at out your windows, if the sun will be out. Cut and remove any ugly stalks of perennial flowers; mulch flowerbeds; hoe or pull winter weeds.
After the holidays you may begin working on seriously cutting back all the perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard and removing all of the weeds, not just those obvious to guests.

Monitor houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much less in winter.

Consider garden-related holiday gifts for the gardeners you know.
It is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths and crocuses—but don’t delay.
Watch the yard for wet or non-draining areas. Two possible solutions are: regrading the soil, installation of French drains and/or with dry wells. Usually these solutions require a professional such as Winterbloom to install for you.

Paper First, Backhoe Second

Thu, 15 Nov 2018 22:45:00 GMT

When I leave the office to meet a potential client for the first time it has become a happy moment for me. I arrive eager to hear their needs and how I can potentially help them with some possible solutions. Sadly, I often find that the person/persons have already started a project but did not have a clear idea of what they were doing. Often when I arrive, I find partially installed patios, walkways, drainage systems or numerous plants sitting in pots/partially planted.

Sometimes I find the couple has not been able to agree on what they are doing because they had not taken the time to dialog, discuss and draw out a clear vision of what they would like to experience regarding their real estate. Numerous times I have been called in because one person in the household has maimed, or at the extreme, cut down a tree which should have been left alone or at a minimum, pruned correctly.

I have been called when a drainage system was being installed which caused more water damage because it pointed the water to their crawl space. When Blackberries, Bamboo or other invasive pests have become a problem I have been called in. Often the client cannot imagine their world without the plant and they struggle over agreeing how they should go about the task of removal.

I have been asked to help when several plants were purchased, some planted, but the partner did not like the species or where they had been placed. I have been called when a baby was born which changed the wife’s idea of what would be important in the landscape. However, the husband did not want the maintenance level that the wife expected. There was a lot of tension.

It is important when someone owns even a little bit of real estate that there is a vision of how they would like to have the space fit into their lives over time. Some examples include setting up their estate to:

make them feel happy when they drive up to the garage.
create a space for them to share a meal with family or friends, have it big enough, and have the ambiance level that they want to see, smell and hear.
create spaces—that are not in plain view—for storing garbage/recycle bins, kayaks, outdoor furniture, garden tools.
create a space outside which could be viewed regularly from inside the house, which would change by itself over the seasons.
create a space outside for retreating to:
read, swing in a swing seat with grandkids, grill hot dogs over a fire bowl or meditate by a waterfall.
The slower season of the year from November through February is the very best time of the year to ponder, process and dialog through your dreams of what you want your real estate to eventually do for you.

We say:

Paper First: get your plans prepared and set in the order and way that you BOTH want to have things done.

Backhoe Second: you will both then be ready to bring in the tools to make the changes that you want to have happen, as you have the time and the money to do them!

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for November

Thu, 15 Nov 2018 22:19:00 GMT

The nights have become longer. The rains have returned. The clouds are lower. The humidity is up. It is time to get the garden ready for its hibernation period!

Cover any bare ground with bark mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). Weed the space first, of course—this will insulate your plants from the potential cold to come. It also prevents erosion. As the mulch breaks down it helps the plants by feeding the soil creatures, which in turn give the plants important nutrients. Some plants, such as fuchsias and cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base to stave off the cold. The mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out as quickly and from overheating.
Provide winter protection to built-in sprinkler systems by 1. turning off the automatic controller and then 2. turning off the water to the system at the street or at the backflow prevention device and then remember to drain it, if your system has a drain.
Prune your roses back about 1/3 height to prevent winter wind damage.
If moss is appearing in your lawn it may mean too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility or soil compaction. Use a lawn moss killer if you want to keep the grass looking thick and lush. Of course, you may decide to ultimately shrink your lawn. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what that might look like while you are not busy mowing it!
Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean and oil tools and equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib. In really cold weather, if they have not been both drained properly they might burst!
Now is the best time to lime the lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet.
Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer if you did not do it last month.
Great time to purchase Paperwhite Narcissus for the holidays by indoor forcing. They will bloom five weeks from the time that you start them.
Great time to plant new landscape trees and shrubs or just transplant.
Good time to prune the plants which bloomed in late summer.
There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but don’t delay.
Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during heavy rains; drains/French drains and ditches are possible solutions.
You may lightly fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas now, for better green-up in the spring. Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. Make sure the soil is moist when you fertilize and do not overdo!
Always rake leaves off the lawn as soon as you can. Leaves left on lawns can quickly damage a lawn! If the leaves are raked into the beds they will act like a good mulch and will NOT hurt the plants at all.

Advanced Gardening tips:

Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.
Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area with moderate humidity.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around base of trees.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall). This is a good time to cut and root Rhododendrons and Camellias; root Begonias from leaf cuttings.
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden area.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost.
Rake and compost leaves. A three to four-inch layer of leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Consider tying up limbs of Arborvitaes to prevent breakage by snow or ice.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce and/or chives.

Estimates, Bids, and Time and Materials (T&M)

Mon, 08 Oct 2018 17:28:00 GMT

Estimates, bids, and time and materials (T&M). I often hear people in the community using these words interchangeably, but in truth these words mean quite different things to the business person who is contracting for services to the public.

Estimates: These are usually given if the potential client wants a price very quickly—just to see if it is within their ball park budget. It is just that, an estimate, and a contractor does not expect to have the client hold them to this price or to the price range. Often, we will give a low and high number as a range to the estimate. This is particularly done if there are a number of unknown challenges or risks involved to implement the task. An example of a common unknown challenge is when one has a break or multiple breaks in an irrigation system due to an accident or severe freezing. We do not have X-ray vision to know how many breaks there are and how many pipes or heads must be dug up and replaced to get the system to work successfully again.

T&M (Time and Materials): Occasionally, after giving an estimate to a client, the client wants to go ahead and have work accomplished. We try to make the client aware of what is included in a T&M job. Normally this does not include a contract. The first step is to sleuth out what needs to be done on site. This time is billed to the job. There may be some cleanup needed with removals involved, this will include labor for a trip to and from the recycle or dump site which is also billed. If a challenge is encountered during the job which needs special tools or equipment, there will be time to travel to purchase the equipment or to return to the shop to fetch it, if we own it, and this time is billed as well. Often, clients will not understand this situation because they want to pay only for the time that they see our employees on their site.

Bid: Most often we offer a bid for a job. This involves a contract which states what is included in the bid. We do our best to include the removals, the trips to and from the dump, the shop, the store and how many days and hours of labor it will require. If something is encountered during the job which is entirely outside of the contract, we will need to stop and give the client a bed price to perform the “additional to contract” work.

In a T&M job , the client takes on the risks of what might happen on the job. In a Bid job , the contractor takes on the risks of what might happen on the job and charges for it. Often it is less expensive for the client to work as a T&M job unless there is something unearthed which is unusually expensive. Most clients prefer a bid for their work as they then have a firm price to expect at the end of the job and they might feel that they do not know the contractor well enough to trust him/her, so they would rather take the risk of paying more for the product, rather than trusting the unknown or unfamiliar business person.

Phil‘s Garden Tips and Tricks for October

Mon, 08 Oct 2018 17:13:00 GMT

It is now the waning days of Summer. The kids are back in school and your commutes have changed as a result. Take a moment as you drive and enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us by the end of October! September and October are my two favorite months of the year, for dry but cooler weather and generally sunny skies.

September Gardening Tasks:

Slack off on watering in the beds, but water some if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter.
Weed. Yes, still.
This month and next month are the best months to plant or renovate lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold.
Bait for slugs.
You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown to clear up the clutter.
Now is a good time to take rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined.
September through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The very best month is November.
Prepare compost piles for recycling vegetation from garden and deciduous trees this fall. For a more detailed look at what makes good compost, read this blog post on composting.
Pick and store winter squash, if ready. This is usually late in September.
Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods.
Spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods.
Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October.
Pick tomatoes and potatoes.
September was the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more.
September was also the final month for regular lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix later in November).

How to Over Seed Your Lawn

The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May.

Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a leaf rake or a hard rake if necessary.
Sprinkle some seed over the bare areas. Cover it about ¼” deep with a grass seed mulch.
Wait about a month to see what happens. If green tiny shoots, like dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well.
If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass.
Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!)

Ask Phil – Spotted Spurge

Tue, 14 Aug 2018 22:42:00 GMT

This month’s “Ask Phil” question comes from J.W. –

Q: I’ve repeatedly picked out low-lying, flat tiny-leafed weeds I believe are called Spurge. They are tenacious, coming back and spreading rapidly. Any ways to combat them?

Thanks,

J.W.

A: Hi J.W., it is good to hear from you. Spotted Spurge is a difficult weed to control. It is almost impossible to eradicate as the seeds are very tiny and can last several seasons in the soil, waiting to sprout. Here are some suggestions:

If you are into non-herbicide weeding, I suggest regular use of the Hula Hoe or similar method on a dry sunny day, before they set seed. That way you can leave them lying there and they will dry up. They set seed when they are bigger, and it is hotter. It is hard to tell if they are setting seed unless you get down and look at them up closely. If they are setting seed, then carefully pull them up and place them in your garbage container and do NOT place them on the ground to dry up.
This is a warm-season weed. If you are into herbicide spraying I would suggest using a lawn weed spray with a little Dawn soap in the mix to coat the foliage better. That should kill them, but it must be done repeatedly and do not do this around vegetables or fruits that you will eat. If they are seeding, then it will do NO good, because the seeds are still viable, and will all sprout this summer and next season.
Lastly, Spotted Spurge only gets about 2″ tall at most, so it cannot cover up plants that you want. They are just annoying flat to the ground weeds.

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for August

Tue, 14 Aug 2018 00:00:00 GMT

It is high summer, and the dry season is at its peak! We have only had one significant rain event since April, making ground moisture very low. Many plants are stressed if they have not had some additional water. Even the native plants do not look their best this year. The forests and meadows are tinder dry, so please be vigilant!

To Do This Month:

Weed. Weeds should be few and far between now that the hot weather is upon us and it has been a long time since it has rained. Do not let weeds go to seed in your yard!
Mow regularly.
Don’t forget to water. The best time to water is in the early morning using approximately one inch a week on the lawn. Use more if it has been hot and dry. Beds need half that much.
Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables, Geraniums and Petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a natural product.
Use mulch to protect ornamentals and garden plants from hot weather damage. For spider mite control on susceptible ornamentals, hose off foliage once a day for three days, once a month in July, August and September. Arborvitae hedges are the most susceptible.
This time of the year fleas can inhabit dusty dry areas where suburban wild creatures such as Raccoons, Skunks and Opossums lurk. Fleas that were left from those animals can very easily jump onto your pets or you. Sometimes just watering these areas can drown the fleas, or, sprinkling some food grade Diatomaceous Earth can cause disruptions in their life cycle.

What is the name of that plant?

Mon, 16 Jul 2018 22:48:00 GMT

One of the most challenging things that we do as humans is communicate. It is difficult enough to get an idea across to a partner, mate, spouse or family member but it can be impossible to communicate with someone of a different language.

Surprisingly, when it comes to plants, we have a very clear way of communicating with anyone in the world! If someone of a different tongue points to a plant and appears to be asking what its name is, it is easy to tell them—if you know the botanical name. The reason it is easy is that the botanical name is the same in every language of the world.

For example, Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ might be called by many different common names in English; golden daisy or plain’s daisy are two such names. Who knows what the common name for that plant is in Spanish, French or Russian? However, if we use the Botanical name it is the same in Spanish, French or Russian. Botanical names are always binomial, meaning they have two parts. The first is the Genus—in this case, Coreopsis — and is always capitalized. The second name is the Species—verticillata — and is never capitalized. The variety that people like to plant here in the Willamette Valley is called ‘Moonbeam’ because it is pale yellow and is not too vigorous. A variety is always capitalized and is enclosed with apostrophes. Most people just call it Coreopsis ‘Moonbeam’. Coreopsis verticillata ‘Moonbeam’ is an herbaceous perennial . That means that it disappears in the winter and comes back every spring.

Helleborus orientalis is an evergreen perennial. That means that it is ever-green, having green leaves all year long. However, it is not woody like a tree or shrub and does not die out or go dormant every year.

If a plant is a hybrid cross—that means two different species have been used to pollinate the plant—it is shown by an X. Rhododendron X ‘Jean Marie de Montague’ is a beautiful slower-growing Rhododendron which came to us as a cross—shown by the cross—of several Rhododendrons. It is always cloned and not propagated by seed. The clone is named ‘Jean Marie de Montague’. It is an evergreen broadleaf shrub. That means it is green all year round and it is shrub-like in growth.

Pseudotsuga menziesii is known commonly as a Douglas fir tree. It is an evergreen coniferous tree, meaning that it is a tree which produces cones and is green all year.

Quercus garrayana is known as Oregon White Oak and is a deciduous broadleaf tree. That means that it loses its leaves in the wintertime.

A plant may have many common names, but each essentially has only one botanical name. Everyone in the world has the capacity to learn it and then use it to communicate with anyone else in the world.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for July

Tue, 03 Jul 2018 18:14:00 GMT

Here Are Some Things to Do Around Your Garden This Month…

Prune shrubs only after they have bloomed unless you are on a rejuvenation project.
If the weed is not seeding, you may just leave the up rooted plant right there, most days, and it will dry up and turn into mulch!
This is the month that we fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
Check for root weevil adult damage on the leaves of rhododendrons and azaleas and decide whether you should use nematodes for their larvae or sticky traps for the adults.
Mulch, if you have not already, to conserve soil moisture. This is best done with one of the bark products, or compost.
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites). These pests can kill a whole hedge. Here is a simple non-chemical method – pick a block of time when you can spray water on the foliage of the plants once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this same practice each month during the dry season. In other words, act like a heavy summer rain and wash them off the foliage!
You may cut off the foliage of the Spring bulbs when the tops have browned. If overcrowded, dig, divide and store to replant this fall.
Lawns probably need one inch of water per week this month. Beds need ½ inch per week.
Stake tall growing annuals or perennials if needed. Dahlias need it!
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly, and maple trees.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family – including zinnias, marigolds, Jerusalem artichokes and others.
Stake tomatoes, watch for blight, prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep the robins off.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
This is the time to begin mid-summer plantings of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale.
End of month: prune the spent fruiting stems of raspberries, boysenberries and other cane berries after harvest.

Use Human Psychology – Expensive vs. Cheap

Wed, 20 Jun 2018 15:53:00 GMT

Spring is the busiest time of the year for anyone in the Horticulture or Landscape Community.

We received a phone call in May from someone who wanted a cleanup because their yard was overgrown and full of weeds. It had been many years since any work had been done.

They said emphatically that they did not want work that was expensive . That was a difficult statement for this landscape company owner to swallow because of course the opposite of expensive is…cheap. Did they want a “cheap job” done to their yard in the prime time of the year?

We at Winterbloom had an overwhelming amount of work, it being springtime, and would not be able to get to the project until July. They wanted someone who could do the work pronto. I suggested they call one of the many local landscape trucks in their area. They had done that, but all of the landscapers were busy. At that moment, they exclaimed, “Why doesn’t anyone want to help me with my job?!” and hung up!

That caused me to ponder about using the aid of psychology to be supportive in one’s search for help in one’s landscape.

If one must call in the Spring for help, say something like, “I will pay EXTRA to get the work done now!”
If one really wants a financial deal, wait and call for the work to be accomplished during December through February. That’s when Landscapers are hungry for business, and may be more inclined to charge less.

Phil’s Garden Tips & Tricks for June

Wed, 20 Jun 2018 15:40:00 GMT

Summer starts around the 21st of this month, which means that the sunshine is most effective. Sunshine is the food of photosynthesizing plants! On the 21 st the sun is close to vertical in the sky during the day, giving the most food possible to the plants. After the 21 st it slowly drops from vertical every day. Always remember that no matter what the TV advertisers say, fertilizer is not, and has never been, food for plants.

This is the best month to plant the warm season annuals—flowers or vegetables: Petunias, Impatiens, Eggplants, Tomatoes, Peppers, Corn, Basil, Cucumbers, etc.
Mow regularly: set your lawn mower at the highest setting for the rest of the summer until October. The longer grass helps to shade the roots and keeps the grass greener and healthier.
Keep on top of the weeds. The rainy season is over, and it will soon be less work. You can toss the weeds out in the sunny part of the bed (but only those not going to seed!) and they will dry up by the end of the day and not reroot, like they might in the rainy season.
Water as needed: one inch per week at least on the lawn, and about half an inch on the shrubs, is a standard rule of thumb.
Slug bait is still important. Try to use pet-safe bait.
If it is needed, prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they bloom.
Check the Rhodies and Azaleas to see if you need to do any weevil control such as nematodes or insect tape. Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the Chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look hideous. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called Green or Brown Lace Wings, which may be purchased locally.
If you want to make your Rhodies bloom more and look neater, it is time to dead head them.
Check for Aphids and cabbage worms and act, if needed, on veggies or roses.

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for May

Thu, 17 May 2018 19:15:00 GMT

May is the month that has inspired so many poets and song writers over hundreds of years, mostly because here in the Northern Hemisphere it is when many of the deciduous plants put out their foliage and many of the evergreens like Rhododendrons and Camellias put out their blooms. There are many perennials such as Peonies, Campanulas and Dianthus which begin blooming this month. Most of the bulbs of March and April are now finished and the warmer days have returned.

Those who are not so aware of the seasons might think that now is the best time to plant everything. But that is not true. It is the time to plant the vegetable garden, the lettuces, cucumbers and so on. However, the tomatoes and peppers should wait ’till June to really do well, that is when the real, regular warmer weather shows up.

The time to plant shrubs and trees is best done in the latter half of October through March when it is cooler and the rainy season descends. For now, if one plants shrubs and trees, they will need to be babied through this first summer or they will die because we are going into the dry season of our year. As a business we plant all year long because we have jobs all year long, but we have found that planting is the most successful if done in October through March.

The time to plant lawns by seed is April/May and September/October, but these seeds also need to be babied to get rooted and grow. July/August is often very hot and difficult (if not impossible), to get lawns to grow from seed, and the months of November through March are often too cold and wet and the seeds just rot. Often the best alternative is the more expensive but quicker method, laying down sod. Sod can be placed almost anytime of the year in our climate.

There is a cycle to the seasons and a best time for each gardening activity. May is the month for incredible growth of both weeds, (unwanted plants) and wanted plants! Therefore, it is the month to be diligent, but do not allow yourself to get overwhelmed. Simply make sure that the weeds which are preparing to set seed now, are the first to be pulled, and those who are still just thinking about it can be left for next week. Those plants which are going to seed should be put in the debris container. Never throw them on the ground! They will simply place your weed seeds there. The other weeds, which are just green growth and not going to seed, may be placed back in the bed behind some of your plants which you want, as long as the air is dry and they can shrivel. They will then just turn into mulch! If you allow yourself the luxury of NOT pulling the weeds going to seed and play a video game instead, you will be preparing for an even BIGGER onslaught of weeds next year.

Here is the list of Phil’s garden tasks for May…

Buy tender annuals and plant outside in your pots or flower beds if you are going to have blooming flowers such as Petunias and Impatiens. When a plant just lives through the growing season it is called an annual.
Begin moderate watering of lawns and beds. They begin drying out much more quickly this time of the year. Soak once every two weeks, more often if dry.
Fertilize lawn with a natural fertilizer (non-petrochemical).
Mow regularly. Set your lawn mower one more setting higher.
Thatch and renovate lawn only if you actually need it. If you use totally natural fertilizer, and not petroleum derivatives, you probably will never need to do this step as the earthworms will take care of your thatch and keep your ground, free-draining.
Weed.
If you have notches in your Rhodie and Azalea leaves you can Begin root weevil control. Safe alternatives are the use nematodes, DE (diatomaceous earth) or sticky traps on trunks of plants.
This is the time of the year to fertilize rhododendrons, azaleas and all shrubs that actually need it. If they look good and green and you mulch them they may not need any additional fertilizer. If you are into the neat and tidy look then it is the time to remove spent blossoms on shrubs like Rhodies, which have finished blooming.
Prune plants that need it after they flower this month, such as a Rhododendron, if it actually needs it.
Plant chrysanthemums now for perennial fall color.
Control aphids by washing foliage with soap suds, removing by hand, by pesticides, or by promoting natural predators, such as Ladybugs.
Tiny holes in foliage and the appearance of shiny, black beetles on cabbage, and potatoes indicate flea beetle attack or possibly cabbage butterflies. Treat the ground around the stems with DE, spray with BT (bacillus Thuringensis), soapy water; pick them off if you can find them, or all of the above.
Control slugs with bait, salt, or by smashing.
Begin liquid fertilizing of your new annuals. annuals. Natural organic fertilizer is best. Every two weeks is optimal right after you water.
Later in the month, plant these warm season vegetables: tomatoes, peppers, egg plants, snap and lima beans, Brussels sprouts, slicing and pickling cucumbers, dill, kale, pumpkins, summer and winter squash, onions, potatoes.
Spray fruit, nut, and shade trees for tent caterpillars, if present.

Be fearless, oh real estate/property owner! Tackle your land and bring it under control. Doing so can easily take the place of paying a gym to work out and it is right there at your finger-tips!

An Invasive Violet for Western Oregon

Thu, 17 May 2018 19:15:00 GMT

It is not uncommon for people to ask me about violets which seem to be taking over their yard.

Violets come up in planting beds and lawns in the early spring, with purplish-blue flowers and purple leaves in the sun but darker-green leaves in the shade. They can grow here in Western OR, even in gravely, dry soil where not much else will grow. They are not fragrant.

European Dog Violet

This is the European Dog Violet or technically, Viola riviniana ‘Purpurea Group’. Sometimes V. riviniana plants are sold as Viola labradorica purpurea and sometimes even Viola hederacea, but I am told that those plants are not generally sold or even found growing in the NW. Buyer beware!

V. riviniana can spread from its running fleshy roots which can plunge rather deeply, making this plant quite drought tolerant.

These plants can out compete smaller plants such as Mentha requenni and can mar the look of a stand of slightly taller plants such as Ophiopogon p. ‘nigrescens’. However bigger plants can comingle with no problems. For instance, the currently invasive common exotic ivy, Hedera helix, can easily quash this violet but then who wants a groundcover of ivy?

V. riviniana can spread easily by seed as they shoot their seeds explosively, up to 8’ away when they are brown and ripe. Therefore, once established, they can become very numerous. On top of that fact, the seeds may stay viable for up to 5 years in the ground.

Some Suggested Methods of Removal Are:

Covering a densely growing area, where they are to be removed, with cardboard and 2” of bark mulch. Anything that dares to come up from far flung seeds, immediately remove with your handy Hori-Hori! This may take more than one year.
I personally have removed all of my V. riviniana with only a hoe over the past 15 years. If I see one riding piggy back in the potting soil around a plant from a nursery, I immediately dispose of that violet in the garbage, not the compost pile! I wait to plant it in the ground, watching the potted plant and digging out any other unwanted Violets over the course of a year. I have seen several come up around a piggy-backed plant from a nursery!
There was a location in my garden, after the 10 th year, where violets repeatedly came up from seed or old roots around the base of my largest old Azalea. Ultimately, I crawled on my hands and knees and surgically removed them with my Hori-Hori. They have not returned since.

Plants from the Genus Viola th at you may want to cultivate in Western Oregon.

Viola Sempervirens

We have some lovely native violets here in the Pacific NW, but many are robust growing as well. Try them where they will not cover smaller plants and you will be fine. You may find different species on-line. I have grown (and particularly like) a yellow one that is local and evergreen, Viola sempervirens . It is cheery in the spring. It spreads by stolons as well as seeds.

There are plenty of other lovely exotic violets that are not invasive. These Violas include the plants which we commonly call Violas and Pansies in the nurseries. They have been bred to have large blooms and are available in many colors.

From what I have read, the most fragrant form of this plant is Viola odorata ‘Rosea’ , which is a bright pink form.

Final thoughts:

Clearing a property of Viola riviniana is not a task for the faint of heart. It requires persistence and boldness and a ready willingness to dig in the rainy season, because that is when it is easiest to pull/dig out of the ground. In the dry season of summer, it can be almost impossible to extract this Viola from the concrete-like dry ground. Your Hori-Hori is your best friend if you would like to rid yourself of these invasive plants.

Spring Awakening

Wed, 28 Mar 2018 20:26:00 GMT

Spring has officially arrived. Really. Despite the rains and clouds, the crocuses and daffodils are popping up and new green leaves are emerging. As I write this the sun is pushing the clouds away and the temps are reaching for the 50s. The birds are at the feeding stations and have you heard the frogs? It’s like a symphony in the neighborhood. The spring awakening is such a special time.

Some things to consider for beautifying your landscape in late March and early April:

Now is the best time to purchase perennial plants at the nursery.
Continue weeding to prevent seed maturation. If you weed seriously now, summer weeding will be a breeze! And if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time.
Continue baiting for slugs.
This is the last good month for transplanting. If a plant is starting to sprout, it might be best to just leave it and wait for next fall to move it.
Prune spring-flowering shrubs after the blossoms fade .
Trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished.
Fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas with compost or, only if necessary , an acid-type fertilizer. (An indicator is that the leaves are yellow)
Spread mulch over garden and landscape areas that didn’t get mulched last month.
Lawn-mowing begins; set blade ¾ to 1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses. In other words, set it as low as you can without damaging the lawn. It will look really shorn. It might take three tries to get it to the level that you want. The grass will be wet and green.
First application of lawn fertilizer this year after the first mowing. Our preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical). (Or, something like 16-5-5).
Fertilize cane berries with manure/compost (or, 10-10-10).

Prune out dead wood on blueberries and gooseberries and keep them from getting too big, then spread wood shavings and as needed manure/compost.

Iris unguicularis (Algerian Iris)

Tue, 27 Mar 2018 19:06:00 GMT

Starting in November (weather permitting), the clumps begin to flower with two-inch, fragrant, light lavender-purple flowers. It is a vigorous plant that slowly spreads by rhizomes (also known as rootstalk, or rootstock – the horizontal stem of a plant from which a variety of individual plants can grow – great for filling in spaces, such as alongside my driveway!). The blooms make good cut flowers arrangements, but if you do not slug bait, all of them will have some chew spots

They can continue to bloom through April (temporarily ceasing when the temperature drops below 15 degrees F). The Royal Horticultural Society named Iris unguicularis as one of the top 200 plants of the last 200 years!

This plant is great for rock gardens, raised beds, banks, slopes and containers. It can even handle coastal gardens. It is one tough plant. It seems to handle our zone 8 climate with no problem. I have only seen a little leaf burn when the temps got down to 12 F.

I cut the foliage down to about two inches in the late fall once it is obvious to me that it is starting to bloom. This shows off the flowers better.

It does not like being dug up and disturbed, but sections can be dug up off the sides to give to your friends and family. Be forewarned, thought, it takes more than a year to make it happy again. The center of my clump tends to give out, but I put compost and fertilizer in the middle and it grows back.

I am told that it can cause indigestion if eaten. Do not eat it.

With these few exceptions, I just leave it alone most of the year:

Trim back the foliage just before it breaks into bloom.
Bait for slugs at the same time.
Add a circle around it of compost and manure in March.

It’s Landscapers’ Spring! Your Monthly Landscaping Guide From Winterbloom

Mon, 19 Feb 2018 01:40:00 GMT

It’s almost spring! Well, it’s what we call “landscapers’ spring.” February 15 ^th is the official milestone that marks spring for us in the landscaping business. From this point on, odds are we won’t have any heavy snow or hard frosts.

This is a wonderful month for gardening! We still have some rain of course, but it’s a warmer rain, right? The following list is a good guide to remind you what to do while you’re out there:

It is time to begin baiting for slugs, near things that you know they will love in the spring.
Weed! Now is the time when they are little, weak, and helpless things! Take one section of the yard per weekend and work all the way around the yard in a month.
It is even an excellent time to transplant if you need to move something.
Plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs, bare root (less expensive) or container.
Plant perennials and perennial herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage, and thyme (Remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly).
Prune fruit trees as needed.
Prune and train grapes.
Prune your roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the best place to purchase self-root roses.
Continue to prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, and/or flowering cherries, so you can bring them inside to force early blooms.
Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis, and hydrangea. Do not prune spring flowering shrubs now such as azaleas! You will cut off the bloom buds.
Prune back Fuchsias and other perennials that have not been pruned back to about four inches. This year has been cold enough so you may wonder whether the Fuchsias have really died to the ground. So, unless you just can’t handle the bare sticks, wait till you see how far up the little green buds are coming out and trim them down to that mark. This Spring it will probably be from the ground and not from the stems at all.
Control moles with traps.
Spread mulch two inches thick. Do this every two years. Compost mulch is best, but bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season and in the rainy season it prevents erosion.

For adventuresome gardeners:

Make cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers.
Prepare soil for growing pots and flats of seedlings .
Plant seed flats for crops in the cole family, such as cabbage (as in cole slaw), broccoli, and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors
Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae.
Time for the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.

Euphorbia rigida: All Season Color and Texture in Your Garden

Thu, 15 Feb 2018 23:57:00 GMT

This shrub is an evergreen perennial in our northwest climate. It originated in what we used to call Yugoslavia (now the 7 independent nations of Bosnia-Herzegovina, Croatia, Kosovo, Macedonia, Montenegro, Serbia and Slovenia).

Here’s more of what you should know about this plant:

It will brighten the late winter months with chartreuse blooms that will last for well over a month.
It must be watered the first summer, but it is drought tolerant after that.
Its foliage shows gray-blue color in the summer sun and a green-gray color in the winter.
It is well mannered: This means it is not prone to seeding around like some of its cousins.
Individual plants are about two feet tall and one and a half inch wide in general.
Maintenance is simple. After the blooms have been spent, cut that stem all the way down to the ground. The shoots that didn’t bloom this time around will next year.

Euphorbia rigida looks great next to rocks and likes well-drained soil It doesn’t like to get its feet wet, so avoid planting it where it will end up sitting in irrigation water in the summer, or in a place where water pools in the winter rains.

Planting and Pruning in a Northwest January

Mon, 22 Jan 2018 21:12:00 GMT

We have all walked into a fresh new year. Much is hoped for amid the rain, wind and chill. Be brave fellow gardener, the weather can be your friend!

Here are some good suggestions to help you get something accomplished in your garden in January:

Good time for transplanting (now that this year’s first big freeze has eased).
Plant sweet peas or eating peas for that matter if you have a place open in the garden and if your yard isn’t frozen or covered with snow. If you wait for warm weather the insect and fungus enemies of peas will be ready for you. If you plant now, the enemies are asleep and you can get a jump on them. Plant peas where the soil is well drained and workable.
It is still too early to start seeds for spring vegetable transplant.
Water landscape plants underneath wide eaves and in other spots protected from rain; monitor during the winter.
Moss appearing in your lawn means too much shade, low fertility, soil compaction, or a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year to decide what to do. Your options are to get rid of the lawn or kill the moss and encourage the lawn. If your trees are getting too big and shady, then the first option to remove considerable amount of lawn might be the best solution.
Gather branches of budding quince, forsythia and flowering cherries and bring inside. The warmth of the house will force early blooming for a lovely bouquet.
Monitor houseplants for correct watering and feeding; guard against insect infestations, clean dust from leaves. Use a low-level fertilizer like Oxygen Plus.
Winter pruning is now upon us. See our last year’s blog on this subject: “Winter Pruning, It’s All About the Timing,” to read up on the particulars.
Check online for ideas and follow up with your local garden or nursery stores for seed and seed catalogs to begin planning this year’s veggie garden.
For our country friends, watch for field mouse damage on the lower trunks of trees and shrubs. Control measures include approved baits, weed control and traps.

It’s Winter, So Let’s Wait

Thu, 21 Dec 2017 00:18:00 GMT

Last week, a client who had contracted for a considerable amount of landscape work, made this comment to us.

“It is the rainy season and it is so cold and wet, I am not sure about having the landscape work done now. Maybe, it would be better to wait till it’s warmer and dryer, possibly in April or May? On second thought, I think that we should go ahead and do the hardscape work, but let’s wait until the spring for the planting work.”

There are three reasons why it would be a good idea to install a new landscape during the rainy season (Fall/Winter):

If you have drainage issues, the rains will show you where they are.
The ground is soft and malleable now. It’s not difficult to dig for paths, pavers and so on. In the summer months, the ground is like concrete and becomes very difficult to dig.
Landscapers need to have work for their employees all year around. We only stop work when the ground is frozen or when there is a blanket of snow.

Here are three reasons why it is better to plant most plants during the rainy season:

In the rainy season, new plants are dormant, so they will not grow leaves, but instead will modestly grow new roots. This process allows new plants to begin rooting out into the surrounding soil when there is abundant moisture.
Because it is cool and moist weather, leaf transpiration (process of moving water from roots to leaves, where it is evaporated into the air) for evergreen plants is at a minimum. For the deciduous or herbaceous plants, there will be no transpiration at all.
It is the best time of the year to transplant existing plants because:
they will have minimal new top growth which, would force the damaged/cut roots to supply more moisture to the leaves, which they could not physically do.
they will have the opportunity to grow new roots out into the surrounding soil before the onset of the dry season

One reason we get the idea all planting and landscaping needs to take place in the spring is that annuals, veggies and flowering plants are confused with shrubs, trees and perennials, as to when is the best time to plant them.

This is probably because in all but the very esoteric cases, all annuals especially seeds, which most people want to plant, must be planted in the spring to be successful in the western Oregon.

I hope this clears a few things up for you. Here’s another reason to start your landscaping project now – you’ll jump to the top of our list!

Natural Holiday Decorations and December Gardening Tasks

Wed, 20 Dec 2017 23:42:00 GMT

If you have some time to spend outside or just need some time away from the holiday hoopla, here’s our task list for December:

This is a great time to transplant, unless the ground is frozen.
Protect new landscape plants (they seem to have a sail, don’t they?) from the wind with staking, guy wires, windbreaks or site selection.
Poinsettia care: protect from cold; place in sunlight; don’t let leaves touch cold windows; fertilize every three weeks; water just to keep moist.
Cut and dip holly for holiday use. If you dip the cut tips of the branch, the berries and the leaves do not wither or fall off. Holly Dip is available at your local nursery.
Continually rake leaves off the lawn and hard surfaces (leaves may be left in the beds for an inexpensive mulch that feeds the soil).
Before your guests come, cut and remove any ugly stalks of perennial flowers; mulch flowerbeds; and hoe or pull winter weeds, particularly in the parts of the yard that are viewed by the public
After the holidays, you may begin working on seriously cutting back all the perennials and ornamental grasses around the yard.
Monitor houseplants for adequate watering and humidity. Water and fertilizer requirements are much less in winter.
Consider garden-related holiday gifts for the gardeners you know.
It is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs such as tulips, daffodils, hyacinths, and crocuses; but don’t delay.
Watch the yard for wet or non-draining areas. Two possible solutions are: regrading the soil, installation of French drains and/or dry wells.

Your Garden Still Needs Your Attention In November

Tue, 14 Nov 2017 00:36:00 GMT

As the days shorten and the nights lengthen, we can begin putting the yard and garden to bed for the winter. Here is how to tuck them in properly:

Cover any bare ground with bark mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). Weed the space first of course! This will insulate your plants from the cold to come. It prevents erosion and as the mulch breaks down it feeds the plants and composting soil creatures. Some plants, such as fuchsias and cannas, always need a blanket of mulch around their base.
Provide winter protection to built-in sprinkler systems by turning off the automatic controller and then turning off the water to the system at the street or at the backflow prevention device and then drain it.
Prune roses back about 1/3 height to prevent winter wind damage.
If moss is appearing in your lawn it may mean too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility or soil compaction. Use a lawn moss killer if you want to keep the grass looking thick and lush.
Prepare the lawnmower and other garden equipment for winter storage. Clean and oil tools and equipment before storing them away. Store hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing.
Now is the best time to lime the lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet.
Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer if you did not do it last month.
Thinking of your indoor seasonal decor? Purchase some Paperwhite Narcissus and start forcing them. They will bloom in 5 weeks.
Plant new landscape trees and shrubs.
Prune and transplant shrubs and trees as needed.
There is still time to plant your spring-flowering bulbs, but donâ€™t delay.
Watch for wet soil and drainage problems in your yard during heavy rains; drains/French drains and ditches are practical solutions.
You may lightly fertilize rhododendrons and azaleas now, for better green-up in the spring, with an acid fertilizer formulated for them. Make sure soil is moist.
Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants. Change to Oxygen Plus.
Consider supplying food and shelter for attracting wild birds to the garden.
Always rake leaves off the lawn as soon as you can and into beds. Leaves left on lawns can damage a lawn!
Bait garden and flower beds for slugs during rainy periods.

Advanced Gardening

Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area with moderate humidity.
You still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer.
Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around base of trees.
Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall).
This is an appropriate time to cut and root Rhododendrons, Fuchsias and Camellias; root Begonias from leaf cuttings.
Place a layer of composted manure or compost over dormant vegetable garden area.
Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost.
Rake and compost leaves. A three to four-inch layer of leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season.
Consider tying up limbs of Arborvitaes to prevent breakage by snow or ice.
You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce and chives.

Lagerstroemia Indica Hybrid (Crape Myrtle): Tree or Shrub?

Tue, 14 Nov 2017 00:26:00 GMT

This show stopper can be easily pruned as it grows, so that it develops into three to five sturdy trunks. In time, the lower side shoots can be thinned out or pruned off up to around 6-7 feet in height. In about 10 years, you’ll have an interesting and very attractive tree.

The ultimate height of most varieties is around 12-15 feet tall. I have found that in the northwest only the varieties named after native American tribes are reliably cold hardy and do not develop powdery mildew. For example, we use Zuni, Tuskegee, Tuscarora, Catawba, Seminole, Lipan, Tonto, Sioux and Natchez.

In our climate, the advantages of this amazing tree are:

In the late summer and early fall, it puts on massive blooming shows when there are few if any other blooms and color in the landscape. It is available in a myriad of blossom colors, such as white, pink to red, and lilac to purple.
In late October and early November, the leaves turn quickly into yellows, oranges and reds. Bonus: those leaves are small and easily composted in the landscape.
In winter, the trunks develop shiny cream to tawny smooth colors with streaks and mottles. I would consider growing this tree just for the fall and winter trunk display.
In spring the new foliage buds out as a darker color than the summer green foliage, giving it a spring and summer display as well as the bloom, bark and fall leaf color.
It grows best and blooms only in hot reflective heat situations where many northwest plants such as rhododendrons, would burn. The center of a hot asphalt parking lot or the side of a south facing building are ideal locations for the Crape Myrtle.
Once it is past the first summer, when it should be watered well and deeply once a week, it does not need to be watered. It is very drought tolerant.
It does not need any fertilizer after being planted, other than a good three-inch diameter circle of bark mulch kept at about a two-inch depth.
When it is young, trimming off the 8-10-inch dead bloom spikes can help to show off the tree bloom better. As it gets older it can be just left alone.

This is not a native tree; however, it fits beautifully in our human landscape ecosystem, where it can fill in locations that no native tree or shrub would be happy.

It’s October Harvest Time

Mon, 09 Oct 2017 21:59:00 GMT

Happy October! We’ve said goodbye to 90+ degree days and a few rains have fallen. It was a very dry and warm summer, but now it’s time to get ready for indoor activities and some basic outdoor maintenance tasks:

Plant spring bulbs now.
The end of October is usually the time that you can stop mowing, since when it gets cool enough the lawn will stop growing. Occasionally there is a fall when the lawn needs a mow or two into November.
Great month to transplant.
Bait for slugs during rainy periods. This will keep them from making more babies for spring!
Keep leaves raked off lawn to prevent smothering/damaging the grass.
Spread bark mulch now over any areas that may be exposed this winter. This will prevent erosion and keep weeds from growing.
This is a wonderful time of the year to plant new plants!
Mulch tender plants: fuchsias, cannas, dahlias, and callas.

For the More Serious Gardeners Among Us:

Pick green tomatoes and ripen indoors if frost threatens.
Pull and dry onions for storage. Keep at 32-35 degrees F, in a dry area.
Harvest sunflower heads; use for birdseed or roast for a healthy, crunchy snack food.
Dig and store potatoes; keep in darkness with moderate humidity at around 40 degrees F.
Harvest squash and pumpkins as the month progresses; Place them in dry area at 55-60 degrees F.
Harvest squash and pumpkins; keep in dry area at 55-60 degrees F.
Harvest and immediately dry filberts and walnuts; dry at 95-100 degrees Fahrenheit.
Harvest and store apples; keep at about 40 degrees F with moderate humidity.
Spray peach trees for Coryneum blight with copper fungicides; spray cherry and prune trees for bacterial canker with copper spray.
Dig and store these annuals; geraniums (Pelargoniums) and tuberous begonias if you do not want to have to purchase them again next year.
Propagate chrysanthemum and fuchsia stem-cuttings.
Dig and store geraniums and tuberous begonias.
Plant garlic for harvesting next summer.
Harvest the saffron from your saffron crocuses when they begin blooming late in the month.
Begin manipulating light to force Christmas cactus to bloom in late December.
Store any garden chemicals and fertilizers in a safe, dry place out of the reach of children.
Clean and prepare the greenhouse for winter gardening activities.
Bait and trap moles. This is a most challenging undertaking. I have learned that the most technique is using crushing tunnel line traps. Ugh!
Rake and destroy the disease-infested leaves of apple, cherry, rose, keep the rest of the leaves as compost.

Around Winterbloom

Here’s another herald of fall – we’ve wrapped up the harvest of our luscious Goji berries (Lycium barbarum). Gojis set little purplish blooms in summer and mature their fruit in mid-late summer and early fall here in the Willamette Valley. Apparently, the summer heat helps them to have a good fruit set. The fruit is sweet and mild tasting. It’s very easy to pick, and when they’re in full fruit the tall canes brighten up our garden with their hanging orange red berries. They remind me of small peppers, and in fact, as a member of the Solanaceae family, Goji berries are related to tomatoes, potatoes, eggplants and peppers.

The Goji is self-fruitful, which means it doesn’t need two varieties to set fruit. It also loves full sun, so survey your garden before planting. Avoid any shade at all.

The northwest Goji is from China and can grow in poor dry soil. I have found that it does not need much water in our climate; however, watering does help the fruit to stay nice and plump. like many berries, the growth does need to be staked. I prune out the canes that drape over to the ground in the spring, and tie them to a 10 feet tall pole for an eye-pleasing fountain of foliage. Since the tips of the canes seem to be where the fruit sets; tying it up works for me, since it allows the canes to hang down to where the berries can be easily reached for picking.

I find that Goji responds well to compost. Having a good surface mulch helps to hold in the compost and moisture, and keep down the weeds. I water deeply once a week or about twice a month in the summer. It is deciduous in the winter and looks like a giant witch’s broom. I do not think that the plant itself is beautiful, however a cane in full fruit is stunning!

Late Summer in Oregon Means Keep Watering

Fri, 25 Aug 2017 16:10:00 GMT

As I write this the news of the day is the historical total solar eclipse. Here in Tigard, we’re experiencing more than 99% of totality for two minutes.

Lacking most of the sunlight for two minutes won’t stunt the growth of your plantings, for sure, but lack of rainfall during this time of the year definitely could. it is particularly important to water your potted plants every day. They dry out much more quickly than your “grounded” flora.

Our vegetable garden loves all this heat and we’ve been harvesting. This year, we are growing tomatoes, broccoli, cucumbers, asparagus, rhubarb, golden berries, goji berries, figs, raspberries and herbs.

The biochar that we’ve been using along with natural fertilizers has caused our garden to really produce. We are very happy with the results.

Here I am about to spread some biochar on the rhubarb

Other late August gardening chores

Yes, keep weeding.
Mow regularly.
Don’t forget to water. The best time to water is in the early morning using approximately one inch a week on the lawn. Use more if it has been really hot and dry. Beds need half that much.
Monitor veggie garden irrigation closely so crops do not dry out.
Fertilize cucumbers, summer squash, and broccoli, while harvesting to maintain production. Harvest vegetables when edible to stimulate further production.
Control caterpillars on leafy vegetables or geraniums and petunias, as needed, with Bacillus Thuringiensis (BT). It is a natural product
Use mulch to protect ornamentals and garden plants from hot weather damage. For spider mite control on some ornamentals, hose off foliage once a day for three days once a month. Arborvitae hedges are the most susceptible.
You may want to control fleas in lawns with spray this month if you have outdoor pets.Well, speaking of heat and lack of rain, here are a few plants that actually like such conditions: Crape Myrtle (a China native), Pomegranates (thought to have originated in Iran) and Hesperaloe parviflora (native to the Southwest). Pomegranates grow well here, where they can bake, but they don’t produce fruit. They do produce orange flowers, and bright yellow foliage in the fall.

Around Winterbloom:

Well, speaking of heat and lack of rain, here are a few plants that actually like such conditions: Crape Myrtle (a China native), Pomegranates (thought to have originated in Iran) and Hesperaloe parviflora (native to the Southwest).

The Crape Myrtle tree has amazing bark, most commonly bright pink. Its blossoms usually burst forth in late August or September. The leaves turn to orange yellow flame in the fall. Crapes hate shade during the growing season.

Pomegranates grow well here, where they can bake, but they don’t produce fruit. They do produce orange flowers, and bright yellow foliage in the fall.

Please enjoy this glimpse of our Hesperaloe parviflora. It thrives during our dry Oregon summers, tempting hummingbirds with wands of coral blooms and pleasing our eyes with evergreen foliage.

Take a Break From Your Hammock to Tend to Your July Gardening Tasks

Wed, 19 Jul 2017 17:56:00 GMT

Summer has arrived and it’s fantastic! Here is a timely list of tasks that you can do in the cooler early morning and late evening hours, because the hot afternoons are for sitting back with your favorite iced drink and enjoying the sunshine! Here are our suggestions for beautifying your landscape in July: Prune shrubs after they have bloomed.

Prune shrubs after they have bloomed.
Weed.
This is the month that we fertilize lawns with an organic/natural fertilizer.
Check for root weevil adults in rhododendrons and azaleas and either use nematodes for larvae or sticky traps for the adults.
Mulch, if you have not already, to conserve soil moisture with bark or other products.
Watch for signs of spider mites on arborvitae hedges (dusty looking foliage, loss of color, presence of tiny mites), and wash infested areas with water. Pick a day when you can do this once a day for three days in a row. Repeat this same practice each month during the dry season. In other words, act like a heavy summer rain and rain on their parade!
You may dig spring bulbs when tops have died down. (Divide and store or replant if overcrowded).
Lawns (probably) need one inch of water per week this month.
Stake tall growing perennials as needed.
End of month: prune raspberries, boysenberries, other cane berries after harvest.
Check for scale insects on camellias, holly, and maple trees.
Check leafy vegetables for caterpillar attack.
Mound soil up around base of potatoes, gather and eat a few “new” potatoes from each hill.Mid-summer plantings of beets, bush beans, carrots, cauliflower, broccoli, lettuce, kale.
Cover blueberry bushes with netting to keep robins off.
Encourage beneficial insects by planting members of the sunflower family (including zinnias, marigolds, Jerusalem artichokes and others)
Stake tomatoes, watch for blight (prune for air circulation, pick off affected leaves).

Summer time and the living is blue

Our garden is at just about peak lush this month, so it’s a good time to illustrate one of my core design principles: Plant for color, texture and height contrasts.

I love the cooling effect of what I call the “blues” of selectively placed plants such as this Agapanthus, seen here through a screen of a coral Hesperaloe. These colors are in turn picked up by the orange pot filled with blue and orange balls of color and accented by the pink Echinacea or Cone Flower and the creamy white of the Lilies. Planning for vibrant layers gives the human eye lots to do and is refreshing to our spirit.

Exit Rain, Enter Weeds: June Gardening Tasks

Wed, 24 May 2017 20:16:00 GMT

As I look out at our Winterbloom landscape, I see abundant growth, color and wildlife activity, especially birds. I think the same Robin comes each spring to build a nest in the tree visible from our office window. Well, enough bird watching. Here are some June tasks for you:

This is the best month to plant the warm season annuals of flowers or vegetables: Eggplant, Tomato, Peppers, Corn, Basil, melons etc.
Mow regularly; set your lawn mower at the highest setting that you want for the rest of the summer until October. The longer grass helps to shade the roots and keeps the grass greener and healthier.
Keep up on the weeds. The rainy season is over and it will soon not be so much work.
Water as needed, one inch per week at least on the lawn, and about half an inch on the shrubs, is a standard rule of thumb.
Slug bait is still important to put out. Try to use safe pet bait.
Prune flowering shrubs or perennials after they bloom, as needed.
Check the leaves of your Rhodies and Azaleas to see if you need to do any weevil control such as nematodes or insect tape. If you see notches chewed out of the foliage, these pests have been there.
Also, check to see if you have lace bug damage on the leaves. It usually shows up later in the summer. They suck the Chlorophyll out of the leaf cells and make the leaves look hideous. They can be somewhat controlled by a predator called Green or Brown Lace Wings, which can be purchased locally.
If you want to make your Rhodies bloom more and look neater, it is time to dead head them.
Continue to take care of coddling moths and scab on apples and pears. Check to see how many times and how often.
It is time to thin out the fruits on pears and apples.
Spray for fruit flies on cherries.
Check for Aphids and cabbage worms and take action if needed on veggies or roses.

Around Winterbloom

This moment of peace is courtesy of Winterbloom and the European ground orchid

The Dactylorhiza maculata, or European ground orchid, requires relatively little care and adds a delicate touch of color and verticality to our planting beds.

Give them a half-day of sun and they’ll grow in, through and around your other plants.

They like our Willamette Valley climate of wet winters and dry summers, so consider giving them a try!

Brew Pub for Slugs?

Salt is good for killing slugs on the patio or sidewalk, but it kills plants in the garden. Some of our clients have used beer for their planting beds. Don’t waste the good stuff on them, though; buy the cheapest rot-gut you can find and pour it into shallow plastic tops or jar lids. You should see results (we’ll leave it to your imagination what that means) by the next morning.

The Frogs Say It’s Spring!

Wed, 19 Apr 2017 18:28:00 GMT

You may be wondering, is it really spring?

Frog choruses aside, the temps have been below normal; a windstorm toppled fences and trees and thousands lost their power. Fear not! Nature is stirring. So, it’s time to gear up to:

Bait for slugs (and snails)!
Weed regularly now; this will pay off later.
Mow regularly and set your lawnmower higher than last month.
Leave the foliage of spring flowering bulbs and only cut off the seedpods after the blooms finish . (The foliage needs to recharge the bulbs for next year’s blooms.) I just wait and cut the foliage when it is yellow.
Prune and shape spring-blooming shrubs and trees right after the blossoms fade.
Plant gladiolas and dahlias for summer bloom.
Prepare the veggie garden for spring planting.
These vegetables may be planted this month if your garden is ready: Peas, broccoli, cabbage, carrots, cauliflower, celery, chard, chives, endive, kohlrabi, leeks, and lettuce, onion sets, parsnips, radishes, and rhubarb, turnips
Some early broccoli varieties that I have found successful are: Green Comet and Waltham 29
Check strawberries for spittlebugs and aphids; if present wash them off.
If spraying for apple scab; use lime/sulfur.
Control rose diseases such as black spot and mildew by removing infected leaves, and prune for air circulation.

Around Winterbloom

Yes, this Peony is called a tree, though it grows in a shrub like manner. It graces one of our front yard planting beds and is adding a delicate pop of color.

This variety has double to semi-double flowers with silky pink petals accented by bright yellow centers. The bronze foliage transitions to red in winter.

It is a deciduous perennial that is long lived and well suited for your mixed borders or woodland settings. It needs regular watering, which means weekly, or more often in the summertime heat.

Thanks for Being a Good Neighbor

It warmed my heart to receive this thank you message: “Phil, I want to thank you for donating plants for our yard. They are planted and growing! They have brought me so much happiness already. Thank you for being the Lord’s hands; also, thank you for raising a wonderful daughter. She as your kind heart. Serenity has been one of my greatest blessings since moving to this neighborhood.”

And here’s another: “Thank you Phil. I cannot tell you what a pleasure it was to work with you, Miriam, Eric, and the entire Winterbloom team. My hope is that Peter and I will be able to enjoy the tranquility of our yards for years to come. Peter has not seen the completed project but I have conveyed to him how awesome everything looks. Thank you again for the roses and for making the change.”

Time To Visit Your Favorite Garden Center

Wed, 15 Mar 2017 15:46:00 GMT

For landscaping, visit Winterbloom Inc. Phil Thornburg, owner, said his business offers landscape design primarily for residential customers. “Our focus is sustanability,” Thornburg said, adding that he looks at texturing, color and layering when doing a landscape design. With his landscaping, Thornbur’s hope is to create the feeling of outdoor “rooms” and spaces.

Three Northwest Garden Tours, Thousands of Plants, Four Favorites: Peruvian Lily, a Red-Hot Poker, Horned Champion, and Embothrium Coccineum

Wed, 15 Mar 2017 15:40:00 GMT

Three tours, more than a dozen gardens, thousands of plants: That’s been my life for the past month. And it didn’t once rain. I’m a bit overstimulated, but in the best of ways. So many plants are dancing in my head, I’ve been making a list. On top are four from Phil Thornburg’s garden. Phil owns Winterbloom design firm (503-598-0219, www.winterbloominc.com ) and is, obviously, a collector. It took me two seconds — just long enough to glance into the garden and see Embothrium coccineum in full, fiery bloom — to know that. It was a mouth-gaping experience.

Read the rest of the article HERE

Creating an Outdoor Room

Tue, 07 Mar 2017 17:59:00 GMT

Different levels: A higher and lower area either in a deck or in the ground, defines two rooms. A different level on a deck, for instance, can separate a smaller more intimate area for a hot tub, away from the larger part of the deck used for group entertaining. Raised beds or terraces with walls also create separations between spaces.
Shrubs set in patterns: Any shrubs or collection of tall perennials and grasses can create a wall and/or privacy between spaces. Sheared neatly trimmed linear hedges create a more formal feeling for a space. Lightly trimmed softer spreading hedges or simply plants in a row which are not sheared make a room feel more informal.
Fencing materials: Solid fencing creates more privacy. Open fencing or short fencing, defines a space or room without completely enclosing it.
Small structures: Benches, arbors and paths all can define a space. For instance, a path leading to a bench tucked into a flowerbed creates a small but private space. A simple arbor can define an entry to a whole new r oom.
Large structures: A gazebo is an instant room in itself. Decks and patios can provide multiple spaces or rooms for cooking, entertaining, or relaxing. It is most often practical to keep structures, near or against the house. This makes it feel like an outdoor room of the house. On the other hand, separating defined spaces begins creating a whole new experience.
Outdoor ceilings: pergolas or awnings provide a protected space to relax and sit for a while. A tree provides the same feeling.
Corners: By creating corners in a path or around the side of the house, new rooms unfold. By adding a spot to linger you can suddenly add a new view to an existing room or create a whole new room.
Color, fragrance, plant or plant composition as focal point, music, art: By adding some, or all, of these elements you can add to a room’s décor, furnish it, or possibly create a new portion to the room itself. These will add the unique or finishing touches to your room. Try not to overdo art or focal points. One piece of art might be wonderful but a row of them, (dwarves for instance) might send you straight to a children’s amusement park.

The Snow is Gone: Now What?

Wed, 18 Jan 2017 22:48:00 GMT

The days after snow and ice have damaged plants, it is good to assess the situation.

Here is how I recommend doing your assessment: Plant triage!

Obviously, if a tree has partially fallen or has completely crashed and damaged your house and or property, you need to have it taken care of immediately! Call your insurance agent first and next hire a licensed, insured and bonded arborist to take care of it.
If a tree has come down and is blocking your driveway and has not actually damaged anything, and you cannot get an arborist to take care of it, you should cut it out of the way, and chop it up, or give Winterbloom a call to do it for you.
If a bush is leaning over a path or the driveway so that you cannot get by, you may prune it, but be judicious about it. You can cut back inside farther on the thicker branches. Be more cautious with the smaller branches.
If bushes are leaning over, or hanging in different directions from the snow and ice damage, and are not in the way of anything, please refrain from pruning them and wait to see how they will bud out in the spring. This is especially important if it is a spring bloomer such as rhododendron or camellia. You will want to do some aesthetic and/or corrective pruning after it blooms. If you are uncomfortable in doing this, call Winterbloom and we can come out and help you.
If you see some smaller bushes or perennials which are questionable in health or are damaged due to the ice and snow, do not prune them yet, but wait to see how they bud out, and at that time determine how much you should cut them back. An example of this is the fuchsia. In mild winters, they can rebud up on the stem and you will have a large full plant. Leaving them taller and waiting to cut them back until they bud out, will help you to plan how big of a plant that you want in that space. In cold winters, fuchsias may often come up only from the base of the plant and then also emerge later than usual. If you cut it back too far in anticipation of this, you may inadvertently damage the buds at the bottom or on the stem or you might forget that it was there if you cut it too short and think it a weed in the spring when it does decide to emerge!
Many perennials that are dormant in the winter and look ugly anyway, should be cut down to two inches tall. This can be done anytime that you do not have snow on the ground, so that you can see what you are doing, and not stomp all over the adjacent plants while you are pruning. Only prune when there is snow on the ground if it is absolutely necessary. Otherwise, either wait till the snow is gone or wait till you see buds and know what you need to do.

Winter Pruning: It’s All About the Timing

Thu, 29 Dec 2016 17:32:00 GMT

Take a serious look out your windows at your back yard landscape. What do you see? Are the perennials all shriveled and black looking? Are some bushes falling over on top of others?

When you drive into your driveway, what does the front yard and entry-way look like? Is there dead and brown-looking foliage? Are there bushes trying to obscure your windows or push you off the front walkway or sidewalk?

If you imagine tackling all of this in one day, you may feel overwhelmed. However, nothing much is going to grow out there until around March and even then, just a few things will be pushing buds.

So, start with what you see when you drive in the driveway and tackle a section of that when you have a block of time. Then do the other half the next opportunity. When the front is completed, tackle the back yard. Do all of this pruning a section at a time until it is done. Lastly, take on all of those plants that may need attention that you don’t see out your windows. By the time that you do all of this, it will be March and you will have accomplished your tasks!

Here is how you can do this.

Cut back the perennials that are brown and ugly and leave about one inch of stem. I simply chop the foliage into two inch pieces and leave them lying on the ground, but you may want to haul them off to the recycle bin.
Prune and thin the late season shrubs like Hydrangea and Crape Myrtle.
Avoid early spring bloomers like Flowering Quince, Lilac, Forsythia and Daphne, as you will be cutting off their bloom buds, which you are looking forward to seeing! Wait to prune them until right after they bloom and then you will be fitting into their life cycle.
Remember to wait on roses till February around President’s Day . If the roses are tall right now and the wind is catching them, cut them back about a 1/3, but in general, roses need to be as dormant as possible for serious pruning.
Do not shear any of your plants unless they have tiny leaves and you want a hedge type of look. (Shears are like big scissors). Normally one will prune everything with hand clippers or loppers.
If you have big overgrown plants which need rejuvenating, this is the time of the year to do that. (Rejuvenating means cutting back hard with a saw or loppers, so that new growth can occur in the spring). Please note that:
If you do it now, you will be looking at the brown stumps till spring, so you may want to take care of this project in March.
If you find that you need to regularly cut a plant back this hard, it is probably not located in the right place and should be removed. A new plant or plants should be chosen to take its place, which would be more suitable and manageable.
Approaching your pruning in this fashion at the beginning of January about guarantees that it will all be done by March!

How to Take the Stress Out of Maintaining Your Yard

Mon, 05 Dec 2016 23:32:00 GMT

We’re deep into the holiday season and no one seems to have the time to cut back the perennials, grasses or overgrown bushes while neatening up the beds. Of course, the heavy rains we’ve been having also contribute to our disinclination!

Our front yard, which is visible to us as we drive in, as well as to all our guests, needs to look trimmed and tidy for the Holiday season. That is a given. However, we have learned a trick to get through this time of year: We don’t stress about the entire rest of the yard, which cannot really be seen from inside, if at all.

After the first of the year, I take a hard look at the rest of the yard space. I imagine how many weekends I have ahead of me in order to tackle the work before February 15th. That magical date is the beginning of landscapers’ spring in western Oregon; when many sleepy tender perennials and bulbs are just tentatively extending buds out into the world. It is paramount that we trim and clean before they begin their quest. This gives us about 6 weekends!

I divide the yard up into these weekend chunks, tackling a section/weekend until it has all been completed. Doing it this way, I can usually get what needs to be done in a four-hour block of time each weekend, leaving the rest for other activities.

There is always an emotional letdown after the holidays and this task fills a portion of each weekend, allowing me to retrench and to reload emotionally. It is exercise for which I do not have to pay, without holiday advertisements or digital overloads. it is out in the fresh air and rain. All of these are excellent for my state of mind as I launch into the New Year!

It’s Fall: Gardeners, Get Out Your Pruners!

Tue, 08 Nov 2016 17:27:00 GMT

Let’s talk about pruning, which is accomplished with two main methods:

Shearing with a pair of shears. This is normally used with plants that need to be shaped on the outside to some form like a hedge or a topiary. It is best done with plants that have small leaves or tiny foliage to really look good. Pruning in this fashion causes a plant to thicken up and have many points of growth. Lavender, heather, boxwood and sometimes evergreen azaleas are common examples of plants that respond well to this method of pruning. Used indiscriminately, however, this can create the lollipop and gumdrop look that some people like and most people hate.
Trimming , or selectively or thinning. This type of pruning is accomplished with clippers for smaller branches, loppers for thicker branches or a saw for the biggest branches. Trimming’s main function is to select out a branch or a twig and remove it to create more internal space. The best miniature example would be a Bonsai plant. Others that can really look good with this kind of pruning are upright Japanese maples, rhododendron (but not until it is finished blooming in the spring), or a vine maple. Trimming is pruning from the inside out. Most plants would look their best using this method. Don’t let your enthusiasm get the better of you, however, and avoid pruning spring blooming plants, such as Rhodies or azaleas during the fall. If you cut off the buds now, you won’t have any glorious blooms come next spring.

In late fall, your pruning efforts should be spent on perennials that have just finished blooming, and certain types of shrubs, such as mop head hydrangeas. Clear away the brown foliage and any seed pods (think, Echinacea, or cone flowers), if the birds haven’t already done that for you.

Here’s how I shear my lavender this time of year:

I’m Just Wild About Saffron…Crocus sativus, That Is

Tue, 04 Oct 2016 16:42:00 GMT

Saffron Crocus grows well here in the northwest, and you can buy it as a dry bulb in most quality nurseries in the fall. If planted immediately, it may produce its first crop of flowers and provide you with saffron to eat in two to three weeks!

Saffron bulbs must be planted in well-drained soil where they can receive sunshine most of the day. In other words, they can grow in ugly gravelly soil, so long as they can bake on a hot day. What they don’t like is any form of shade. Their foliage will appear in the fall around the time of the blooms; stay evergreen all winter, and then turn brown and shrivel when it gets warm in the spring.

When they appear, carefully pull the three bright red pistils out of the flower and immediately place them in a small open container. Nimble fingers work best for this procedure.

Once you have finished harvesting the pistils, keep them in a dry warm place until they have completely shriveled to very fine threads. Then the red threads may be transferred into a dry sealed container such as a small Tupperware piece.

The bulbs produce many flowers. Rain or slugs can quickly damage or destroy the pistils in the field, so harvest them daily!

Biochar: A Hotel for Fertilizer and Moisture

Wed, 20 Jul 2016 22:20:00 GMT

Its value for the home gardener is that it retains moisture and fertilizer in the soil. I mix it in at the same time as I am working in fertilizer. The Biochar “hosts” these vital nutrients until my plants are ready to use them. It has a neutral pH and I can store bags of it easily.

The larger picture is that Biochar, also called “dark earth,” “soil carbon,” or “terra preta,” is considered by some as another potential tool to help combat climate change. It is made by burning organic crop, wood, and yard wastes, or manures, at very high temperatures and allowing it to decompose in the absence of oxygen, a process known as pyrolysis.

This ancient soil-building method creates humus-rich soil that stores large amounts of carbon that might otherwise be released into the atmosphere. It’s also good for your garden!

If you’re interested in learning a lot more about Biochar, I refer you to the book, Terra Preta: How the World’s Most Fertile Soil Can Help Reverse Climate Change and Reduce World Hunger , Ute Scheub and her co-authors are among those who believe that increasing the humus content of soils worldwide by 10 percent within the next 50 years could reduce atmospheric CO2 concentrations to pre-industrial levels.

Tall fescue – Festuca arundinacea

Wed, 02 Mar 2016 18:09:00 GMT

Tall fescue is a cool season perennial species bunch grass native to Europe. It is a coarse-textured medium to dark green grass, whose leaves are rolled in a bud (unlike the more flat blades we’re used to in the northwest). The plant appears quite vertical. It handles our long, wet, cool seasons very well and its deep root system also enables it to cope well with our dryer hotter months.

When mixed with other grasses in a pasture, or a coarse grassy lawn in the warmth of a western Oregon summer, it stands out because it tends to be green when other grasses have turned brown and gone dormant. It is well adapted to sunny areas. It has traditionally been an important forage grass throughout Europe because of its ability to stay green during the dry warm months and there are many cultivars which have been grown for different localities and uses. It has been used to some degree as an ornamental grass, for soil conversation, and as a phytoremediation (Phytoremediation refers to the natural ability of certain plants, called hyperaccumulators, to bioaccumulate, degrade or render harmless contaminants in soils, water, or air, such as lead or other toxic materials) plant. Because it naturally has a bunch grass type of growth rather than a creeping or quickly spreading habit, if grown as a stand, it regularly needs an addition of seed to fill in blank spots. In a ryegrass or bent grass lawn this Tall fescue is considered a weed, since its dark vertical and coarse texture stands out against the rest of the sod grasses. It does not mix well. It is not often grown as a lawn in its natural form, because it is so coarse textured and bunchy in appearance.

New varieties that are finer in texture and shorter in stature are known as turf-type Tall fescues and dwarf turf-type Tall Fescues. These fescues are good to plant for general sunny lawn use and are the most common lawn grass types in California. There are also Tall fescue-endophyte assisted varieties available. These varieties are very drought tolerant, disease resistant and also deter predation by insects and mammals. They may be good for lawn areas but are counter productive in pastures, since they’re poisonous to cattle.

Recently some of the turf-type Tall fescues have been developed to the point where several are purported to be spreading. This trait in a Tall fescue lawn is very advantageous, as the standard varieties need to be reseeded occasionally to fill in bare spots. There are several varieties of this group of sod type Tall fescues and they are all Rhizomatous Tall Fescue (RTF) . Some varieties of RTF do fill out fairly well, while others do not. This grass is still somewhat in the research stage but there have been some success in the RTF Sods, which are now available. They become thick, green and more drought tolerant as a lawn grass that will fill in naturally (except for the large holes) without having to be reseeded.

Here are some reasons why Northwesterners might become interested in an RTF sod for their own lawn:

Tall fescue tolerates more sun and heat before turning brown and going dormant. Most of our native grasses, and particularly the non-native ryegrasses, do go dormant when it becomes hot and dry. However, Tall fescue is not a grass that can be used in shade.
This particular selection of Tall fescue tends to crowd out other grasses more than our standard perennial ryegrass and so it has a more uniform appearance after several seasons than most sod types.
When damaged, this lawn can repair itself to some degree where many other types of sod would not.
Since RTF takes more sun and heat than other grasses, it can handle a south-facing lawn placed at a slight tilt toward the sun, with reflected heat from a sidewalk. This is the hottest aspect for most lawns and one where most grasses would develop dry, dead spots. Not Tall fescue! It seems to relish full robust summer sun in our climate.

Glorious Daphne! A Temporary Treat

Wed, 25 Feb 2015 22:58:00 GMT

This year our Daphne bush burst into profuse and fragrant bloom earlier than usual, due to our mild winter. Its lovely pink blossoms are wafting a wonderful welcome to all visitors. If we could bottle this sensational smell, we would call it something like Delicious Daphne, or Spring Siren.

We are indeed fortunate here in the Willamette valley to be able to grow several species and varieties of Daphne. Most of them are fragrant; a few of them can live up to at least 10 years and one of them really likes it here well enough to self-sow. I will focus here on our most well-known Daphne, Daphne odora (Daphne o).

This Daphne has glossy evergreen foliage that in the most common variety available, has variegated leaves. That means they are white and cream, so that even when not in bloom, this wondrous shrub is attractive. Daphne odora begins to bloom here in March and in a really mild winter, such as the one we just had, it can begin blooming in February. The fragrance is beguiling, and to me it is a mixture of lemon and jasmine.

It is especially great to establish your Daphne near the front door, so it can be enjoyed as you walk up to the house. There are some challenges in providing just the right place to keep it happy, though:

The location must be well drained, and the ground must be slightly raised around it. Another option is to put it in a raised bed. It works best if the soil has been well worked up with compost. Daphne will die quickly in heavy clay and poor drainage.
Daphne odora doesn’t like to be planted in a situation where it gets reflected light in the heat of the day. It will pout, burn, turn yellow, not bloom well and slowly die.
Daphne o. doesn’t do well where it gets shade more than half a day. It will bloom only occasionally and the growth will be lanky and unattractive.
Daphne o. prefers good strong morning sun and some afternoon shade. It does not mind being planted where it must compete with smaller lower plants as this seems to help its drainage.
Daphne o. must be pruned right after it blooms to keep it from getting top-heavy and splitting. The best way to do this is to trim out the extending branches back to a bud. This is easily seen if one looks at the branches with a critical eye. Daphne o. Does not like to be severely pruned, so pruning lightly regularly is best.
Daphne o. does not like to be transplanted. I have yet to be successful at this and not have the plant die a year later.
The oldest Daphne o. that I have seen is 15 years old. It is not a long lived plant. If you can get one to live past 10 years you are doing well.
Do not over fertilize them or they will only grow excessive foliage and not bloom. Just some good compost and mulch around their roots is all that they need.

The Five Most Common Landscaping Challenges

Wed, 27 Aug 2014 20:38:00 GMT

Over the years we have noticed these common landscaping problems:

Problem: The front entry is hard to find and/or not welcoming.

Solutions:

If the main entry door is on the front of the house but it is hidden by plants or structures; often the best solution is to remove those items that can be removed, such as overgrown shrubbery. Then do something with plants, pathways or structures (such as an arbor) to play up and or frame the main entry so that it is more obvious.
If, on the other hand, the real entry is around the side of the house and everyone comes to the wrong door, be it the back door, garage door or kitchen door, think of ways to downplay those doors and guide people around to the main entry door with an inviting path, or colorful plants.
Problem: The entertaining area is too small.

Solutions:

Consider how many people you’ll be entertaining in the area. This will help to decide how big a space that you will need.
Will you be cooking there? You’ll need to allow room for a fireplace, BBQ, fire bowl, outdoor kitchen materials, etc. This will also help to determine the proper size.
Consider circulation from the kitchen to the entertaining space. It is best to have them at the same elevation with no steps or stairs in between and as short a distance as possible between the two. Consider two openings between the house and the entertaining space for parties and bigger groups to make it easier for them to get in and out.
Consider the type of material for the surface of the space. If the door to the kitchen is up a few steps, then a good option would be an artificial or natural wood deck. An alternative would be metal supports with concrete paver surfaces. If the kitchen door is level to the ground, then always go with a solid surface such as concrete, pavers or flagstone.
Problem: Trees or large plants are located too close to the house.

Solution: Often the best way to deal with this is to cut the tree or shrub down and grind the stump. If it is too close to the house then the use of molasses or poison should work to kill the stump. Avoid using poison if you can so that new smaller plants can be planted in the area.

Problem: The maintenance level of the landscape is too high for the client’s lifestyle.

Solution: This takes a whole reworking of the planting plan and often the use of more hardscapes (retaining walls, paths, patios), which of course require less maintenance than living things.

Problem: The drainage and grading were never properly addressed by the builder and/or previous owners and water drains toward the house and vents.

Solution: This can be a very large project if the soil needs to be regraded, because there are often plants and structures in the way.

Once this is addressed, the moisture out of place can then be redirected with drains to dry wells and French drains, along with intentional grading and raised structures.

If you’re facing any of these problems, Winterbloom can help. Give us a call or send us an email. We have solutions for your landscaping problems.

Water, Water Everywhere – Northwest Drainage Issues and Solutions

Tue, 21 Jan 2014 16:55:00 GMT

Here in the Pacific Northwest, we get most of our rainfall during the cooler cloudier months of the year (November-March). This means our rain water runs directly into the ground, as compared to other parts of our country, where rainfall occurs during warmer and sunnier months. This means less rain falls on the ground, because a lot of it is absorbed into the warmer dryer air, or caught on foliage.

Historically, much of the ground in the Northwest was covered by forest or grass. In both cases the soil was honeycombed with roots and holes made by moles, gophers, and other miniature creatures like earthworms. Up to three inches of naturally accumulated soil surface mulch caught and absorbed the moisture like a sponge and slowly released it over time into the soil. The foliage in the trees also absorbed a great deal of moisture, which then evaporated or slowly dripped down onto the ground.

Grass land eco-systems worked in a similar manner. Rotted grass roots and foliage absorbed and stored the rain water and released it slowly during dry season.

This natural moisture storage system worked until we started building lots of houses.

When a house is built, heavy equipment is used to excavate and to move all of the builder’s materials around the site. The holes in the soil, which used to act as conduits for the water running through the property, are suddenly squished by tires and feet and can no longer carry the water. The soil now resembles modeling clay or Pay Doh. Consequently, the water just sits on the surface of the soil. When there is just a little bit of additional rain water, it runs over the ground and is not absorbed.

Also, new house foundations and footings act as vertical dams for the surface and subsurface water. The result is the original rainy season water channeling system, which moved the heavy winter rain water through the ground, now is permanently altered.

Here are three important ways to help rain water flow away from your house:

Traditionally, we have prevented water from running off the roof directly into crawl spaces or creating unplanned water features in the yard by installing foundation and roof drains, which take the water away to the street and then into streams and lakes. A better solution is to channel the water into dry wells or seepage ponds. More about that in an upcoming post.
Regrade the soil so that the water runs at least 10 feet away from the house. Doing this causes the surface water to run around the house to some lower point. This point could be your neighbor’s yard, a low point in your yard or the street. Again, if grading doesn’t solve the drainage issue, then installing French drains to catch the water gives you a better outcome. It may also have the side benefit of promoting good relations with your neighbor!
The third and most important step of all is to restore the original soil porosity.

To restore soil’s original porosity we must invite the earthworms and other small creatures back into the soil to make their holes. Creating a new habitat for them will ultimately attract moles, who eat the worms, and also make nice drainage holes. However, most people do not want to attract moles, as they don’t like the unattractive piles of dirt they leave behind.

We can speed up the process, which on its own might take years or even decades, by incorporating at least three inches of good organic material into the surface of the soil and installing plants which strike roots and penetrate the soil to deeper levels.

Planting also helps decrease erosion. Bare soil erodes during any rainy period and especially so when it has low porosity. This erosion increases as the natural slope of the soil increases. Compost and organic mulch will also slow or halt this erosion. The plants slow down the power and drive or the raindrops and their roots help the rain penetrate into the ground. The mulch absorbs a lot of moisture and also invites earthworms and other small creatures to stay and eat the compost. While they’re there, they also pull the much down into their tiny burrows, helping us still more.

Water Features We Have Known

Tue, 26 Nov 2013 23:16:00 GMT

Water is essential to life; fills the oceans and calms our spirits in this hectic age.

Water flowing through a Winterbloom water feature also adds charm and appeal to landscapes and value to your home. Here are some examples from our current client portfolio. First, a time-lapse video of a work in progress. Our crew transformed a culvert-like water feature into a stunning addition to our client’s landscape:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=kp0Mo-5wUgc

Next, a Ramona fall delights the eyes and ears – right outside our client’s dining room window.

A Ramona fall trips from stone to stone

Finally, we started with a suburban slope and created a lovely fluid meander – here graced with autumn leaves.

From grass to grace

We are Celebrating 30 Years in the Landscaping Business!

Tue, 26 Nov 2013 20:12:00 GMT

We started Winterbloom in 1983. My goal was and is to give our clients special places to enjoy with family and friends.

Winterbloom projects have been featured in Better Homes & Gardens’ Garden Ideas & Outdoor Living Magazine, Sunset Magazine and other local and national publications. It is EcoBiz certified and was given the Angie’s List Super Service Award in 2011. Most recently it was noted as one of the top landscape businesses in the Portland Business Journal.

That’s all great; however, our greatest asset truly is our employees. That’s why I threw them and their families an anniversary party at the Thirst Wine Bar and Bistro in downtown Portland. Please enjoy these glimpses into our fun.

There's a party here tonight!

The Menu

Phil Thornburg, Andy Coulombe, Brock Dallman, Josh DeGraff and Eric bock

Miriam Bock, Samara Hand, Phil and Barb Thornburg

Kristin DeGraff and Serenity Coulombe

Dianna Weston, Mike Cvek and Dale Hickey

Cory Hand and Paul Bock

Andy Coulombe, Brock Dallman, Josh DeGraff and Eric Bock

Dale Hickey, Josh and Jess Deloney

What are pollinators and why do we need them?

Wed, 21 Aug 2013 20:12:00 GMT

Most plants depend upon pollinators to pollinate them to transfer pollen from the male stamens to the female pistil for fertilization and seed production. Some plants are pollinated by the wind and the rain but our fruit producing plants and most vegetables need pollinators to sustain life. Several kinds of insects, including Butterflies, moths, honey bees, bumble bees and carpenter bees, are pollinators. There are others, but these are the main ones. Here’s how it works. When Butterflies extract nectar from flowers, they accidentally collect pollen on their bodies. As they sip their way from plant to plant, they brush this pollen onto the pistils. Bees purposefully collect pollen to take it to their hives to feed their hive mates. Nonetheless, in the process of collecting the pollen they also leave some behind on the pistils. Without pollinators the trees and berries would not produce fruit. Many plants which do not produce fruit, but are still food for us humans, could not reproduce either.

How can we make pollinators welcome?

We can welcome pollinators by planting plants, whose flowers attract pollinators. There are certain plants which are much more attractive to pollinators than others.

Pollinator Friendly Plants Some easy to grow plants that produce flowers, very appealing to pollinators are:

Lavender all varieties
Sedum ‘Autumn Joy’
Nepeta (common name is Catmints) all varieties
Echinacea all varieties

Here is a brief video interview I did on this subject as one of the Oregon grantees for the Pollinator Project:

vimeo.com/67245703

We can also welcome pollinators by not using weed sprays and insecticides which are deadly to them. You may have heard about a recent massive bee kill-off in a shopping center parking lot. Here’s an article on that tragedy:

http://portlandtribune.com/ht/118-hillsboro-tribune-opinion/157702-who-will-speak-for-dead-bees

Want to Know More?

Consider becoming a member of the North American Pollinator Protection Campaign (NAPPC) Faith Task Force. There is a national NAPPC conference in October which can be a place for inspiration and strategy.

http://pollinator.org/nappc/conference.htm l

You can learn more at the NAPPC Faith Task Force Facebook page:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/NAPPC-Faith-Task-Force/461306120624923?fref=ts

Another organization involved with preserving our pollinators is the Xerces Society:

https://www.facebook.com/pages/The-Xerces-Society/193182577358618

Osmanthus—the Legendary Flower of Kweilin: Part Two

Wed, 29 May 2013 17:32:00 GMT

As the new owner of a landscape design and installation company in 1983, I found that many times I needed an evergreen that was not a Rhododendron, Ligustrum, Photinia or one of the Prunus. I wanted a genus that was tough, did not get diseases, came in various sizes and did not mind full sun or even drought occasionally. I wanted something that had fragrant flowers but was not messy and did not grow so fast that it overpowered clients’ or my ability to manage.

One day, I was asked to check out the plants in a back yard of an old home in the northwest area of Portland. The client wanted a landscape makeover but first wanted to know which plants to keep. All of the plants in the garden were a minimum of 25 years old and were either enormous or hacked badly. After walking around the many Yews, chopped Junipers and Rhodies, I came upon three similar plants that I had not seen before. They were lightly trimmed, about four feet in height and breadth, and had trunks of about 3-inch diameter. They were covered with buds and were just beginning to bloom. Their leaves were small, about 1 inch long and ½ inch wide, lightly toothed and evergreen. The little white trumpet flowers had a light powdery sweet fragrance during late March. I asked the clients if they were familiar with the plant. They said “no” but that it was the only plant which they really enjoyed in their garden and they wanted to keep it.

I took a leaf in to several nurseries and no one knew what it was. I looked in my books and happened to revisit the genus Osmanthus. The leaf and flower looked like the picture of Osmanthus delavayii. I was excited. Here was the fragrance I wanted in an evergreen and was not huge, even after 25 years. It was a manageable size with only light trimming. When I returned a week later the plant was in full white bloom, very fragrant and beautiful.

Next, I came across Osmanthus x burkwoodii. This is a cross of Osmanthus delavayii and Osmanthus decorus. It fit perfectly in my scheme of things as this plant is great for a smaller hedge. I have found that it can be easily maintained at about 5 to 6 feet with once-a-year trimming. In spring, it has about the same powder sweet scent as delavayii. Its leaves are bigger, about 2 inches long and about 1 inch wide and not toothed.

Osmanthus heterophyllus and its varieties came next. This tough evergreen’s fragrance attracted my attention one October in Lake Oswego while I was weeding at a house near the lake. I thought that it was a strange Holly but quickly found that, no, here again was an Osmanthus to add to my collection! Its leaves were opposite like the other Osmanthus plants and not like a Holly’s. It is a tough evergreen and its fragrance is a bit like honey and jasmine.

There are several varieties of O. heterophyllus, but ‘Goshiki’ has become my favorite. It is slow growing and the foliage develops amazing color combinations of medium green and yellow splotches with pink streaks. It does burn in reflected heat but can take full sun. The term heterophyllus means varying leaves. When it is young the leaves tend to be somewhat toothed like a holly, but as it grows into maturity it develops leaves that are smooth or only occasionally toothed and appears almost to be a different bush.

One of my favorite spots in Seattle is the University of Washington Arboretum. I have found many live plants there that I have seen only in books. I decided in the 80s that I would locate every Osmanthus in the park to see if there were other species that were special. I did come across O. decorus, O. americanus, O. armatus, O. burkwoodii, O. fragrans, O. Yunnanensis, and O. fortunei. (O. suavis or O. serrulatis were listed as in the arboretum, but I could not find them.)

Since then, I have purchased and grown all of the above species except the two that I could not find in the Arboretum. (Osmanthus can quickly be differentiated from Ilex by their opposite leaves. Ilex leaves are never opposite.) Here are a few of the species I have enjoyed:

O. decorus is a neat mounding evergreen with little white mildly fragrant spring blooms. It is tough and drought tolerant even in dense shade. Its leaves are about three inches long and about one to one and a half inches wide. They are not toothed at all. If I could find a good source I would use it much more often.

O. Yunnanensis looks sort of like a much larger O. decorus. It has the largest leaves of any that I have seen and is not toothed like armatus or heterophyllus. It has olive green leaves and blooms profusely and fragrantly in spring. So far, it is the Osmanthus that I think is the best small evergreen patio tree or specimen. It looks a bit like a Michelia or Parakmeria. I would use it on our designs also if I could find it anywhere but Woodlander’s Nursery in Aiken, Georgia.

O. x fortunei is a cross between O. heterophyllus and O. fragrans. I have found this to be the most satisfying Osmanthus for taller hedging in our climate. It is a tough evergreen, completely drought tolerant, hardy in shade or sun and has the most amazing fragrance on a warm autumn day. It is the fastest growing of them all but can be easily contained to 8 feet. Its fragrance to me is a mix of the jasmine and honey of heterophyllus and the jasmine and apricot mix of O. fragrans. O. x fortunei comes in two varieties that I have found:

‘San Jose’ which is a little more narrow growing and lighter green, and Natchez which is darker green and wider. They can be found at Woodlander’s, Gossler’s (Springfield, Oregon), Greer’s (Eugene, Oregon) and Heronswood (Seattle Area).

O. fragrans was the species for which I most wanted to find a hardy variety and dependable bloomer for our climate. Many varieties of O. fragrans are grown commercially in China. One of their favorite varieties, also quite common in San Francisco, is called O.f. aurantiacus. It is known in New Orleans as “Orange Tea Olive.” Its blooms are a rusty orange and very fragrant. I have had trouble with hardiness in this variety and it has never bloomed for me, but I haven’t given up on it.

Sean Hogan of Cistus Nursery here in the Portland area recently told me of some O. fragrans varieties new on the market. I am in the process of trying them out. They are purported to be hardier with an earlier bloom period.

(These Osmanthus varieties can all be found at Nurseries Caroliniana, Inc., www.nurcar.com.)

O. f. ‘Thunbergii’—supposedly longer blooming and yellow flowered.

O. f. ‘Nenjing’s Beauty’—also longer blooming, white flowered.

O. f. ‘Fudingzhu’—purported to be the most fragrant and blooms off and on all year.

My deck is finally built and I am currently pondering the exact locations where I can plant these three varieties of O. fragrans, so that their fragrance will waft up onto the deck. Naturally, I want to appreciate their beauty also. One day I plan to make the perfect cup of Osmanthus tea and I won’t have to live in Kweilin or New Orleans to do it, I will just sit back on my deck and sip.

The Chinese are very fond of Osmanthus fragrans flowers in tea and as a perfume; hence the English Southern name of the plant, “Tea Olive.” The center for the culture of O. fragrans in China is Kweilin on the Likiang River. The name of the city means, “Forest of Sweet Osmanthus”.

—Phil Thornburg

Osmanthus, Tea and Me…the journey that led to the beautiful evergreens with heavenly fragrance

Mon, 04 Mar 2013 23:13:00 GMT

Carissa — the Childhood Shrub that Began My Journey

As a child, I loved to roam the rolling, green hills of Burundi, Africa. I generally escaped the dormitory on Sunday afternoons with the rest of the older kids under the supervision of a cane wielding, sturdy 65 year old hiker that we all lovingly called “Aunt Esther.” One of my favorite things to do was attempt to categorize and identify the plants that we saw. Of course I had no background in taxonomy or botany. I could quickly tell, though, which ones were annuals, herbs, perennials, shrub or trees; were more or less attractive, fragrant, or not, and so on and so on. Aunt Esther was an accomplished gardener, though she was not formally schooled in this vast realm.

African Holly

One of the plants that attracted me was what she called African Holly. It had lustrous green, elliptical, partly shiny leaves with tiny thorns. It was evergreen even in our driest of dry seasons. I discovered in my exploring that it particularly liked to grow near termite mounds. I was aware of this because we often caught the flying form of the termites at the beginning of the rainy season and popped them into tin cans. We then took them to the dorm, fried them up in butter and ate them as snacks. They were my childhood version of popcorn!

Another attribute of the African Holly was that it had white blooms in December while it also decorated itself with the previous year’s fruit. The berries were a beautiful red color and the flowers were very sweetly scented, reminiscent of Jasmine. We used it seasonally for decoration at home and in the dormitory during Christmas, in place of English Holly. (Although, at that time I was not familiar with English Holly so assumed that it looked like
African Holly).

Being the curious and compulsive child that I was, (I think that I had a touch of ADHD as well), I asked any adult close to me, its botanical name. Of course the slightly annoyed grown up response was, “I don’t know” or “African Holly”!

When I came to the United States at 17, this question was still on my mind. One day while haunting a nursery (which I did as often as I could to feed my spirit), I found what was called Natal Plum. I knew right then that I was close. The flower, the fruit and the leaves were almost identical to what I saw as a child, but larger in every way. At that time nurseries did not have the educational bent that they do now. No one at the nursery had the slightest idea about its botanical name, nor did they have any books about it. They acted irritated that I wanted to know. I continued to hunt and eventually found its taxonomical name in the library at Oregon State University (OSU)

in 1972. It was Carissa macrocarpa, a blooming evergreen which, unfortunately, is not hardy in Oregon. But I knew then that the shrub from my childhood was a Carissa, although I didn’t know its species. Someday I will find out!!!

Southern Holly

The years went on; I was married and we moved to Gainesville, Florida where I pursued a Master’s degree at the University of Florida. We loved to adventure on Sunday afternoons with another couple.

One day at their recommendation, we visited Marjorie Kinnan Rawling’s (author of the Yearling) birth place in Cross Creek. What a wonderful relief from the strip mall, alligator farm, madness that is much of modern Florida! We discovered a historical, preserved farm on about 50 acres of land with semi tended orange groves and lakes. There were few modern amenities. All of the trees and shrubs were the original plants or were replacements. It was a one story, warm, southern, soft and gracious white house with wooden screen-doors and a screened-in porch for cooling air currents. It was reminiscent of my childhood residences. In the yard there was a picnic table with a flagstone spot to set your a portable BBQ. (We fixed our own southern BBQ chicken, right there, on charcoal briquettes).

On either side of the front door stoop were two flanking, broadleaf evergreen shrubs. The tiny yellowish orange flowers, sprinkled inside the bush, were intensely fragrant with an intoxicating scent of apricot and jasmine. Its fragrance and tidy, nice, evergreen habit reminded me of the Carissa of my childhood! I asked the museum curator inside what they were. She said that it was an old fashioned plant that all old southern homes had. She called it Southern Holly (!) or said that sometimes it was called Sweet Olive. I decided then and there that I would find its botanical name.

It took me about three years to sleuth it out, and by then I was living back in Oregon, again searching the OSU library. Osmanthus fragrans aurantiacus was its name. I read that it was from China and that the flowers were used to scent tea. There was even a region of China that was famous for raising varieties of Osmanthus fragrans strictly for the flowers. I decided that I had to find this plant in Oregon and attempt to grow it here. I hoped that it would be hardy. But of course no one that I knew had heard of it in 1979 in Oregon, so I waited.

In 1981 I took my young family with our one year old daughter Samara to Houston, Texas to visit my parents. My father was one of the paid pastors at the Friendsview, Texas, Friend’s Church. While there, I badgered my parents into visiting several nurseries to find this Southern Holly or Sweet Olive.

I finally located Osmanthus fragrans in a Texas nursery and bought two, one for my parents and one to take back to Oregon. I removed it from the pot, wrapped it in a plastic bag and it flew with me in my carry-on bag. It was blooming and had the same heavenly fragrance. I immediately planted it in what I thought was an appropriate spot at our Lake Grove garden in Lake Oswego.

It thrived but never bloomed again. That was discouraging. One winter in the mid 80’s we had a very cold and windy period. It got down to about 9 degrees Fahrenheit and froze pipes all over town. The foliage died to the ground and I assumed that it was dead. I was terribly disappointed. The Osmanthus fragrans that I had hoped would be a hardy replacement for Carissa, turned out not to be so.

But I still had hope. I went on a hunt to find out more about this genus. I just knew that there had to be others that would be hardier. To my delight I found more Osmanthus tucked away in Bean’s Trees and Shrubs Hardy to the British Isles. My compulsive nature took over and I knew that I was on to something special.

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February 2026 Tips and Tricks

November Tips and Tricks

The Rainy Season Has Arrived

General Maintenance

Lawn Care (or Lawn Alternatives!)

Planting & Seasonal Color

Soil & Drainage

Shrubs, Trees & Perennials

Vegetable & Edible Gardens

Habitat & Wildlife

Winterbloom Plant Sale and Raffle

October Tips and Tricks

Plant Sale and Raffle Saturday September 27th 9-11 am

September Tips and Tricks

May Tips and Tricks

May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden

Thank You, and Happy Holidays!

A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from ﻿ Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative ﻿

October Tips and Tricks

Pro tips:

September Tips and Tricks

Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024

September Gardening Tasks:

Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn

August Tips and Tricks

A Trip to Vallarta Botanical Garden-Puerto Vallarta, Mexico PT 2

July Tips and Tricks

Winterbloom Style

May Tips and Tricks

May Tips and Tricks:

A Trip to Vallarta Botanical Garden-Puerto Vallarta, Mexico PT 1

March Tips and Tricks

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of March:

February Tips and Tricks

For adventuresome gardeners: ﻿

January Tips and Tricks

Here are some tips and tricks for January:

Here are the edible peas which I plant:

The History of Winterbloom, 40 Years of Great Landscapes and Wonderful Connections!

November Tips and Tricks

Advanced Gardening tips:

October Tips and Tricks

Pro tips:

﻿

Unveiling Koko Crater's Blooming Oasis: An Unexpected Journey

Seasons of Change

Why become a cooperative business?

September Tips and Tricks

September Gardening Tasks:

Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn:

Gardening Tips and Tricks for August

Hummingbird Alley

Gardening Tips and Tricks for July

July

The Chronicles of a Plant addict: My Wildly Unruly Garden Adventure!

Day of Service

Garden Tips and Tricks for April

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of April:

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for March 2023

Here are some tips and tricks for the month of March:

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for February 2023

For adventuresome gardeners:

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for December 2022

Seasonal yard care:

Go Ahead and Leave the Leaves!

Little Prince of Oregon: A Blogger's Visit

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for November 2022

Advanced gardening tips:

Crocus on the Mind

Urban Edens

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for October 2022

Pro tips:

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2022

September Gardening Tasks:

How to over seed your lawn:

Phil’s Garden Tips and Tricks for August 2022

August Tips and Tricks:

Prairie Restoration

The components of a native meadow:

A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative

For adventuresome gardeners: