Rock Gardening

Dale Hickey • August 9, 2019

“Hi, my name is Dale. I’m a plantaholic.”


“Hi, Dale!”


I LOVE plants, I can’t get enough of them. I like to say I’m passionate, but it really is more than that. If you’ve ever seen a big guy at a nursery, clutching his pearls and letting out a big “SQUEEE” at the sight of a new plant, it was probably me! I find great joy in talking about and to my plants…heh.*


I enjoy finding small micro climates in my garden to grow a wide variety of plants. For example, some of the plants I would consider to be marginally hardy in the Pacific NW, due to our high levels of precipitation, thrive under the protection of my west facing eve.

Close-up of a succulent garden with various green plants, including rosettes and small, textured foliage.

Graptopetahum nad Graptoveria living happily under the west-facing eve.

As you start to look for these little micro climates around the garden you begin to see them everywhere. I find myself wondering, "What could I plant in the cracks of this flagstone?"


Creating beds with good drainage and boulders to provide radiant heat seemed like the obvious next step in my gardening and plant addiction, since I was quickly running out of space under the eves. Which brings me to Rock Gardening.


I have several styles of rock gardens. In this post, I’m going to talk about two of my gardens: my Crevice Garden and my Dry Bed.


In my more natural looking Dry Bed I tried to emulate a rocky, desert environment. I started with a mix of sandy loam placed in a berm—for good drainage—and edged the area with boulders to hold everything in its place. I set boulders and rocks into the berm until it was both aesthetically pleasing and beneficial to the plants I planned to include.


I then spot amended the soil depending on each plant’s needs, experimenting and creating small habitats for each plant as I went along. If a plant wanted better drainage, I would incorporate some pumice. More organic matter if the plant desires more moisture. Most of the Agaves planted in this bed are planted at an angle (so water doesn’t collect as easily in the crown) and on the downhill side of small boulders that can both sheet water away from the root zone of the plants and offer some additional radiant heat in our cold winter months. Gravel mulch is helpful in dry beds and rock gardens: it drains and dries quickly so the leaves of plants don’t sit on wet bark mulch or soil. I chose decomposed granite for my mulch as it fit the aesthetic I was looking for.

A green agave plant with spiky leaves surrounded by pebbles and flowering vines.

Agave perryi 'Flagstaff and Grevillea x gaudichaudii growing happily in my dry bed.

A xeriscape garden bed.

Yucca rostrata, Puya dickyoidies, Euphorbia rigida and Pacificia Iris all benefit from the growing conditions in this dry bed.

Crevice Gardens


Crevice Gardens have been increasing in popularity over the years and have provided me with a new and creative twist on rock gardening. Take a look at the very nice crevice garden installation at the Denver Botanical Gardens in this article in High Country Gardens. Instead of placing boulders into a bed, flat stone is placed into the bed vertically and relatively close to each other. The stone (various other materials can be used such as urbanite) is placed deep into the planting media to create deep crevices, much like an alpine plant would be accustomed to growing in. The soil and media used is usually faster draining, but this will depend on the type of plants you want to grow. Crevice gardens are a great place to showcase smaller plants that may get lost or not thrive elsewhere in the garden. They can be as large or as small as you want. They can be created in containers or troughs, old bathtubs, sinks, you name it, as long as you have good drainage.

Rock garden with layered dark stones and small flowering plants.

For my crevice garden I started with a base of sandy loam soil mixed with pumice and gravel. My friends had just finished installing a patio using an imported black flagstone from India and offered me the remnants to use. I edged the garden with grey basalt boulders and started filling in the crevices with plants. Since it is sometimes difficult to find plants small enough to try to plant in those narrow crevices, I have decided I want to try growing many of the plants I plan to incorporate by seed—or other means of propagation—with, of course, the exception of those “Squee!” I’ve got to have these discoveries.

Rock garden with various succulents and ground cover plants nestled in tan sand, bordered by dark gray slate pieces.

I have decided to include some plants that will need more winter protection such as the Dyckia you see on the left of this image.

Close-up of small, gray-green succulent plants with a yellow flower bud growing in sandy soil.

Raoulia australis is an alpine plant from New Zealand that forms a flat may over the ground and rocks. Perfect plant for a crevice garden but not the easiset to get to establish.

If you decide to create a crevice or rock garden, have fun with it. Get creative and don’t be afraid to propagate your own plants, especially with those little treasures that may be hard to find.


*In an article appearing in the summer 2019 issue of The Rock Garden Quarterly, issued by the North American Rock Garden Society (NARGS), author and self-professed plantaholic, Anna Leggatt, writes about growing bulbs in lawns as a way to expand the areas she is able to plant in. She digs deeply into the lengths that we plant addicts will go to satisfy our need for new plants. Thank you, Anna!


Dale Hickey is a guest writer who works for Winterbloom, and you can find more of his writing at bearandbriar.blogspot.com.

Plant Sale and Raffle Saturday September 27th 9-11 am

September 3, 2025
We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00! Bring your friends! Please RSVP for the event at the link below: https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact

September Tips and Tricks

By Dale Hickey • September 3, 2025
Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year.  Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
A close-up of small white and yellow flowers with a bee pollinating one.

May Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg and Dale Hickey • May 6, 2025
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
A group of people sit in a room with presents, talking.

Thank You, and Happy Holidays!

By Dale Hickey • December 18, 2024
A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from  Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative  As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us.  On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party:
Pale pink fuchsia flowers hanging over a garden path. The scene is blurred, with a wooden gate in the background.

October Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg • October 8, 2024
October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. Autumn has arrived, and with it, all the things we love—cooler days, vibrant fall colors, and a fresh start for your garden. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month, and then by Halloween, the rainy season has begun! The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the chore. October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon. If you want more bulbs in your garden to bloom in March, April, or May, visit your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and plant them. October and November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall! The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your garden. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! (Sometimes, only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. This month, mulch should be placed around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter.  Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring. Late October is a great time to broadcast Native hardy annual seeds. If you can get them going now, most species will sail through the summer months with no water needs. Pro tips: Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer. Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great birds to set out over the winter for birds or human snacking. Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping them all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees. Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating. Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads. Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter, and watering them lightly once a month over the winter to keep them alive. Do not let them freeze! Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put them in moist, sandy soil and cover them with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temperatures. Give them some light from a window, and if they are at room temperature, they will root faster. Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases. Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children. Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage. Consider manipulating light now to force your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Pink begonia flowers with yellow centers hang from green stems and leaves.

September Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg and Dale Hickey • September 11, 2024
Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024 September and October are my two favorite months of the year. The weather is beginning to cool down, but we still have some beautiful sunny days. Halloween is just around the corner and I have an abundance of bird activity in the garden still. Mornings are noticeably chilly, and it feels nice to add an extra layer to stay warm. The transition to Fall is my favorite! September Gardening Tasks: Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter. Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up! September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you. Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in. You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives. September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant . The peak month for planting and transplanting is November. Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September. Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes. Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more. September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November). Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined. Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall. Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods. If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods. Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October. Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May. Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake. Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have! Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days. Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well. If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass. Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!) Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.