Winterbloom Inc.
Artisanal Landscaping 
Serving the Portland Metro Area

Chickadee Gardens: A Drought Tolerant Paradise

Rebekah Cammack and Dale Hickey • Jul 05, 2022

This winter I had a design client email me a picture from a Better Homes and Gardens magazine with the message, “this is what I want.” I poured over the beautiful photos of a garden photographed in the fall that had bright yellow leaves and tawny grasses; the pictures possessed a golden quality to them which drew me in. I squinted at the fine print below the photos: "Chickadee Gardens, located near St. Helens, Oregon," it read. This was something I just had to see for myself. So, on an overcast June afternoon, Dale and I headed to Chickadee Gardens, crossing our fingers in the hope of warding off the rain. The gardens, located in St. Helens, Oregon, were quite a trek from our Tigard office, but it turned out to be well worth the trip. 

Chickadee Gardens is a private garden belonging to Tamara and David. As well as being an avid gardener, Tamara, a well known local garden blogger nestled in the hills above highway 30, shares her two-acre garden with the world. Tamara came to gardening by way of fine art and a passion for backyard habitats. After moving back to her native Portland from the Bay Area in her early 30’s, she began experimenting with plants in her mom’s back yard. In 2015, Tamara and David purchased their new home with the surrounding two acres. The home and land have passed through several creative and thoughtful hands down to Tamara. The house was originally designed and constructed by an artist who used half of it as her studio, another owner painted the outside walls a vibrant fuchsia color and created a meditative labyrinth in the garden.

While we walked around, Tamara told me that she often gets mixed reactions from people who come to see her garden. Her aesthetic is loose and almost wild, incorporating the use of multiple canopy layers and a generous helping of native plants—an echo of her time volunteering with the backyard habitat program. This is not the garden for neatly trimmed boxwood hedges, nor for the carefree English cottage garden with rambling roses. In Chickadee Gardens, Tamara has thoughtfully selected plants that will thrive in her varied micro climates, and that they will be self sufficient during our long dry summers and resilient to our wet winters. It’s a garden that feels like it belongs in Oregon—quirks and all. Due to her work at Joy Creek nursery over many years, she has an abundance of unique plants that we "oohed" and "ahhed" over as we meandered through her system of crushed gravel paths. 

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    Cream colored California Poppy

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    Lavandula stoechas 'Van Gogh'

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    A mix of pitcher plants

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    Big Root Geranium

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    Beesia

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    Arctostaphylos 'Ghostly'

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    Podophyllum 'Spotty Dotty'

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    Eriophyllum Oregon Sunshine

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    Rock Rose and Spanish Lavendar 

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When I asked her about the upkeep needed for this size of garden, Tamara was very upfront that she spends hours every day tending to her yard. Since Joy Creek Nursery closed this past year, she has dedicated the bulk of her time to her garden and to garden coaching. 

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    The Chicken Coop - Casa de Frida

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    Frida

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    She Shed

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    One must have a place ro rest after all that work.

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I was curious about her approach to planning out her garden since it covers such a large area. Tamara told me she started with a very simple design outlining the various areas, garden beds and general shape she wanted them to take. To quote, “I knew I wanted a swoosh here and a swoosh there.” She tackled each section one at a time and designed as she went.


Tamara was also very intentional about where she incorporated color in her garden, keeping more muted tones toward the house and bright wild colors on the periphery. In some areas, she has come into conflict between her designer- and gardener-self: she will create a striking composition of a grouping of plants and then have to impose rigorous self-control to keep her inner gardener from putting other plants in that space. 

Exploring Chickadee Gardens is a beautiful reminder that a drought tolerant garden that is adapted to our climate can still be lush and full of beauty throughout the seasons. Tamara’s journey to her garden is a reflection of how so many people in the gardening community, from such a variety of backgrounds, come to find solace in plants and earth, and their gardens tell their stories. 

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By Dale Hickey 29 Feb, 2024
In early February, my partner and I traveled to Puerto Vallarta for a week of relaxing and exploring. In no scenario should one visit Puerto Vallarta without paying a visit to Vallarta Botanical Garden. The garden is just a 30-minute drive from downtown PV. So we decided on a day and looked up the bus route to visit. This will be my 4th visit, but my last visit was about six years ago, and I am excited to see what's new. After a scenic and economical 30-minute bus ride, costing us merely 50 pesos, we arrived at our lush destination. The entrance to the Vallarta Botanical Garden greeted us with its enchanting entryway, a prelude to the botanical wonders that awaited. As we paid the entrance fee and proceeded, the main road leading into the heart of the gardens beckoned us to explore further. Each step took us deeper into the garden, where a symphony of birds accompanied us. The path to the garden is lined with an array of plants, from the dramatic silhouettes of the black elephant ear plants- Colocasia, with their large leaves absorbing every ray of sunshine, to the fiery colors of bromeliads, igniting the green canvas with reds, yellows, and oranges.
By Phil Thornburg 28 Feb, 2024
After the spots of cold weather we had this winter since the turn of the year, I hope that March lessens this winter’s cold grip on us. Remember: if you see damage to your broadleaf evergreens, do NOT cut them back now, wait until they begin to bud out in the spring! You may find that they do need to be cut to the ground, but they may simply need to grow new foliage along the stems and on the tips! The beginning of Spring is about 20 days away, so I am hopeful that we have no more disastrous freezes! Here are some tips and tricks for the month of March: · This is what I think of as the best time to purchase perennial plants at my local nursery. Currently, many of the perennials are in small, 4” containers and are ready to grow. Instead of waiting for those same plants to grow at the nursery, it’s better to purchase them now and let them grow in my landscape, rather than wait until they are larger before purchasing and ending up needing to pay more! This logic also goes for shrubs and trees. Right now, is the time to get the best value for your purchase. If you wait till it is warm and sunny, and the plants are blooming in their pots, the prices will increase, and you will miss the early bird choices and possibilities! So, go now to your favorite local nursery! Cornell Farms, Gardner’s choice, Xera, Cistus, and Bosky Dell are some that I check out regularly! · It is important, if you have not already done so, to quickly prune off any of last year’s ugly brown foliage left on your perennial plants. It is good to do that now before the new sprouts begin to pop out of the ground! I am still working on it here! · I am continuing to weed to prevent any of them from going to seed! I always pull out any weeds which are getting close to going to seed first. Seriously, if you weed now, before they go to seed and make their babies, your summer weeding will be so much easier! (And, if you are going to use a pre-emergent weed control, now is a good time - just please be careful when using this sort of thing!!) · I continue to bait for slugs! · March is the last good month for transplanting. Try to do it soon, before the plants begin to sprout. If a plant is sprouting a lot, it might be best to leave it alone and wait for next fall to move it. · I wait to prune my spring-flowering shrubs until the blossoms fade, and then I only prune them if they really need it. · I trim or shear winter-blooming heathers when the bloom period is finished, that is usually later in March. This keeps them nice and tight and full. · Now is the time to cut off all my Western Sword Fern’s fronds to clean them up and get them ready to unfurl all their new fronds. I focus mainly on the ferns that I can see along a path or from a window. Obviously, if you own a woodsy section, you will not want to trim all your ferns in the woods! No one does it out in the forest, this action is for the fern to look good. It does not affect their health! · I fertilize rhododendrons, camellias, and azaleas with compost or (only if necessary) I use an acid-type fertilizer (an indicator is that the leaves are yellow). · I spread mulch over the garden and landscape areas which didn’t get mulched well enough so that there is bare ground showing. Bare ground is an invitation for weeds! · Lawn-mowing begins sometime in March, so I set my blade at the lowest setting that I am comfortable with: ¾”-1” for bent grass lawns; set blade 1 1/2” to 2 ½” for fine fescue and ryegrasses - I set it as low as I can without permanently damaging the lawn. It will look very shorn after I do this, and it might take me three tries to get it cut down to the level that I want. The grass will also be wet and green, so if you do that, try to avoid clogging up or killing your lawn mower! I also do not leave the clumps on the grass this month as I know that it will create brown spots. I throw the clumps into the beds or into the composter. · This is the time for the first 2024 application of lawn fertilizer (after the first mowing). My preference is an organic fertilizer (non-petrochemical; suggested 16-5-5). · I Fertilize my cane berries with manure/compost (if a natural fertilizer, I suggest 10-10-10). I Prune out the dead wood on my Raspberries, Blueberries and Gooseberries to keep them from getting too big, then I spread wood shavings, and as needed, manure/compost.
By Phil Thornburg 29 Jan, 2024
What a cold and icy January we have all experienced! We lost an entire six working days to frozen ground. The first half of February can always bring another blast; however, going from my past experiences, I have only had two winters in our 40+ years where we have had severe weather after. February 15th is a big day; reaching it always gives me hope because, in years past, we have often had a bit of sunshine and a taste of Spring weather around that date. It gets everyone in the mood, and we start getting calls on the office phone, wanting to get work done. The weather causes people to panic, saying, oh gosh, we really need to get that drainage work done, that rock wall completed, the yard redesigned, etc., because Spring is right around the corner, and we want to be outside and enjoy it! It is time to begin baiting for slugs. Place the bait near things that they love to munch on. Beer in a pan works for some folks. I have also taken objects like wood or pottery and set them in areas slugs enjoy, and they will use this as a resting place. I flip it over, now and then, and pick them off to eliminate them. The worst are the little squishy grey ones imported from Europe. They are tiny but powerful because they choose to chew through lettuce and other succulent garden items, and they are hard to find. Weed! Now is the time when weeds are small, weak, and helpless. I take one section of my yard per weekend and work around the yard by the end of March. It saves me hours of work later in the warm weather when I am in the mood to do other things! This is a great time to plant fruit trees and deciduous shrubs from containers (or try bare-rooted, less expensive plants) and transplant. I Plant perennials and herbs outdoors, such as chives, lovage, mint, rosemary, sage, and thyme (remember that mint and oregano are invasive, so plant accordingly). I Prune fruit trees as needed. I Prune and train grapes. I Prune my roses. This is also a great time to plant new roses. Bare-root roses are available; however, we believe that Heirloom Roses in St. Paul is the premier place to purchase self-rooted roses that are not grafted. The advantage here is if we have a really cold winter and the top dies back, the roots will come back true to the variety, and I will not get a wild rose coming up from the roots because that is what they graft most roses onto! I like to Prune and gather branches of quince, forsythia, and flowering cherries and bring them inside to force early blooms. They make substantial, bountiful bouquets! I Prune summer-flowering plants, such as butterfly bush, cotoneaster, clematis, and hydrangea. I do not prune spring flowering shrubs, such as azaleas and Rhodies; or I will end up cutting off the bloom buds. I Prune back Fuchsias and other perennials which have not been pruned back to about four inches. This year has been cold enough so one might wonder whether the Fuchsias have really died to the ground or been killed. So, I have learned to just handle the bare stick look and wait to see just how far up the little green buds come out on the stems and trim them down to that mark. It has been so cold that quite possibly this Spring they all might just come up from the roots instead, so I will need to be very careful and look for their little green shoots coming up from the ground around the brown stems! I spread compost mulch two inches thick every two–three years. Composted mulch is best, but dark bark mulch is fine. It is easiest to do this in winter after things are trimmed and cleaned up. It makes everything look great! It smothers weed seeds and of course helps to hold the moisture in the ground in the dry season, and in the rainy season it prevents erosion. I also place my tree leaves and light trimmings in my beds. I find that this cuts down on the need for very much mulch most years. For adventuresome gardeners: It is that time when one can make a cold frame or hotbed to start early vegetables or flowers. Of course, doing this in the garage with a UV light is another option. Plant seed flats for crops in the Cole family, such as cabbage (as in Cole slaw), Broccoli and Brussel sprouts for future planting outdoors, using your cold frame, hot bed or garage starting beds. Prepare soil for future planting of the grow pots and flats of seedlings that you are starting. Apply first of four dormant sprays of copper/sulfur sprays mixed with dormant oil spray on apple trees to prevent apple scab and kill pest larvae. This is a nice non-petroleum-based spray. I like to choose that time well because then I can use the exact same mix of dormant sprays for other fruit and deciduous trees and shrubs, especially for certain roses that normally are attacked by disease and insects.
By Phil Thornburg 27 Dec, 2023
Wow, one more year has passed! It is now 2024. January and February are the months of the year when I am poised to shut off my outdoor faucets on the nights that will go below 30! I still need to turn off my irrigation system, but I hesitate as the system recharges my waterfall/pond and there are often dry periods in the winter when it needs to be on. Here are some tips and tricks for January: It continues to be a great time to transplant or plant anything hardy. Of course, I would only do this when the temperature is above freezing! However, that is fine because I am not interested in transplanting or planting into frozen rock-hard ground! The plants want moist and receptive soil, and I need it, too, for my shovel and arms! I can choose to plant Pea seeds this month! YES!! All the main types of peas can be planted now. However, I must see that the ground is ready for planting them. There are sweet peas (the ones grown only for cut flowers and fragrance) or (eating peas) which I can choose to plant. I have yet to prepare a spot in my veggie garden where the ground will not be used for something else. I know from experience that if I procrastinate and wait for warm weather to plant the peas, their insect and fungal enemies will be ready to jump on them, so if I plant them now, or at least in February, their enemies will still be asleep! All peas like well-drained and workable soil and can easily grow from seeds. They all like to climb, so I always put up some net or trellis alongside my planting row! Here are the edible peas which I plant: Shelled peas - These peas are shelled, and the shells are discarded. Snap peas - This pea pod is full, thick, and crisp with peas inside. The whole thing is sweet, and one can eat pod and all, raw and fresh. We usually use this one as a snack with dips or in salads. Occasionally, we cook them. Snow peas - This is the pea pod typically used in Asian stir-fry dishes. It is more of a thin, rubbery pod, which is picked early & young from the vine before it fills out with the peas inside. It is still a good time to scatter most wildflower seeds, such as California Poppy and Clarkia. It is still too early for me to start most other seeds for spring vegetable or annual flower plants, that means in the garden or a cold frame for use as transplants. It is essential to water many of my landscape plants underneath my wide roof eaves, which are protected from our rain, about once a month. I monitor them until the irrigation is turned on. Outside, cats can also begin using these dry places as litter boxes, and then they can become smelly, and the urine can burn the leaves of the plants! Watering the area dilutes the urine and washes it away. Moss appearing in my lawn now usually means there is too much shade. It can also mean low fertility or soil compaction, resulting in a thin stand of grass. Now is the time of the year for me to decide what I will do. My options are twofold: either get rid of some of the shade or shrink some of the lawn so I have less lawn trying to grow in the shade. Shade is the enemy of grass and, at the same time, encourages moss. Moss can quickly out-compete any lawn if it is a half-shade situation. However, moss killer is easily applied. I only use Iron or ferrous sulfate (as the active ingredient), so it is not poisonous to humans or animals. I monitor my trees, and if they are getting too big and shading too much of my lawn, the first option is to remove the shaded part of the lawn. Another alternative is to remove some of the branches /or remove the whole tree if I want lawn in that location! For indoor winter color, I gather branches of budding quince, forsythia, or flowering cherries and bring them inside. I first mash the bottom of the stems before placing them into a sizeable water-filled vase. The warmth of our home will force the buds on the sides of the branches to bloom early for beautiful bouquets. I Monitor my houseplants weekly for correct watering, fertilizing, and guarding against insect infestations! I dust leaves. I use a low-level fertilizer like “Oxygen Plus,” I am cautious not to overwater this time of the year! This is also when I look at all my trees, shrubs, and perennials and plan out needed pruning projects to commence with my winter pruning!
By Phil Thornburg 15 Nov, 2023
From the fall of 1979 to the fall of 1982, I worked as the field and laboratory testing manager for a geotechnical company called L. R. Squier Associates. A recession happened during the early 80s, interest rates for mortgages on homes ranged from 11% to 17%, and employment was hard to come by. I was laid off from L.R. Squier in October of 1982 and began looking for work, taking a class on vocations and employment preparation. I was assessed and told that I had artistic talents, the learned skills to manage a geotechnical laboratory as well as its field assignments, and many skills in the field of horticulture but that I should work for someone else and not seek to own or start a company because they determined that I had no business understanding as well as being low in math skills and accounting. I found a job working part-time at minimum wage for Gerber Gardens in Lake Oswego. I enjoyed working with their employees, selling to clients, and learning about their various plants. I did not earn enough to support our family, so Barb began cleaning the homes of our Tigard Community Friends congregation members.
By Phil Thornburg 26 Oct, 2023
The rains have returned with gusto. Since they started earlier in October this year, even the freeway grass is beautifully green! Here are November's tips and tricks. Mulching: I like to look around for bare soil exposed spots in my planting beds and cover them with an organic mulch (such as medium dark hemlock). Of course, I make sure to weed that space first! This action will insulate my plants from the potential cold to come, prevent erosion, and, as the mulch breaks down, this material feeds the soil fauna and flora, giving the plant's roots their valuable nutrients. Some plants, such as Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Cannas, always need an extra blanket of mulch around their base to stave off the cold. It is good to remember that this same mulch in the summer protects the ground from drying out as quickly and from overheating on hot days! I seek to provide winter protection to built-in irrigation systems by #1. turning off the automatic controller and then #2. Turn off the water to the system at the street or backflow prevention device #3. If your system has a drain, remember to drain it! I prune my roses back about 1/3 in height to prevent winter wind damage. I do this, however, only on tall roses that could blow over or break off without this step. They are not yet dormant in our climate, so I prefer to wait to do all the major pruning until February. If moss appears in my lawn, it probably tells me I have too much shade, poor drainage, low fertility, soil compaction, or all of the above. I use a lawn moss killer as a first step. However, sometimes, I have decided to shrink the size of my lawn, which is next to the trees or structures, because they may be causing too much shade. Fertilizing and liming my lawn also encourages the grass but discourages the moss. The rainy season is a great time to ponder and process what shrinking the size of the lawn might look like during the window of time when I do not have to mow it! This is the time for me to repair the lawnmower and other garden equipment before storing them for winter. I intend to clean and sharpen the blades, oil the tools and tend equipment before storing them. I store my hoses carefully to avoid damage from freezing. Do not leave them attached to the hose bib because in freezing weather, I have found that if they have not been turned off and appropriately drained, they burst! Now is the best time to lime my lawn: 50-80 lb. per thousand square feet. I Fertilize the lawn with a fall/winter fertilizer. Often, I purchase Paperwhite Narcissus bulbs from the nursery for the holidays. They are available now and can be easily forced for indoor bloom. They will bloom in approximately five weeks from when one starts them in an indoor container. Usually, the nursery will answer any questions that you have about this. Their fragrance is truly amazing December and January! I use this season to plant new landscape trees and shrubs or transplant them. I also use this time to begin pruning the plants that just bloomed in late summer and October. There is still time to plant spring-flowering bulbs, but I have learned the hard way…. Don't delay! The nurseries run out of the best bulbs fast! I watch for wet soil and drainage problems in my yard during heavy rains. I have used dry wells/French drains and ditches as possible solutions. If you have a question about this in your yard, you can call us, and we would be happy to take a look. I sometimes lightly fertilize Rhododendrons and Azaleas, which now may have yellow leaves, for better spring green-up. It is essential to Never lime these plants as they like acidic soil. So, I ensure the soil is moist when I fertilize, and I try not to over-fertilize! Magnesium sulfate is a good choice this time of the year to encourage plants in pots and the ground if the leaves are yellow. If green, I leave them alone and allow the organic debris to fertilize them. I bait garden and flower beds for slugs during the rainy periods. I always remove leaves off the lawn as soon as I can. Leaves left on my lawns can quickly damage the grass! If the leaves are quickly moved into the beds, there is a positive reaction in that they will act as free mulch, and they will NOT hurt the plants. Advanced Gardening tips: Consider planting Crocus sativus (Saffron Crocus) now to harvest NEXT fall. Reduce fertilizer applications to houseplants water less frequently and change to Oxygen Plus rather than giving any nitrogen. Consider supplying food and shelter to attract wild birds to the garden. Store your potato crop at about 40 degrees in a dark area like a garage. We still have time to plant garlic for a harvest next summer. Fruit tree sanitation: to prevent the possible spread of leaf diseases, rake and destroy leaves from around the base of fruit trees. Use other leaves or bark instead. Tie raspberry canes to wires; prune to one foot above the top wire (around four feet tall). Place a layer of composted manure or compost over the dormant vegetable garden area. A three to four-inch layer of raked leaves spread over the garden plot prevents soil compaction during the rainy season. Cover rhubarb and asparagus beds with composted manure and or compost. If you have a hedge of Arborvitae, consider tying up the limbs to prevent breakage by snow or ice if they are tall, or cut them down by 1/3 or so. You might want to plant a window garden of lettuce, chives, or flowers for the dark rainy season ahead
By Phil Thornburg 25 Sep, 2023
I have seen Christmas decorations in Costco, so it must be October! October is the transition month for weather in western Oregon. We are technically in autumn but still have several warm, clear, sunny days this month. Often, we begin experiencing some weighty rains about mid-month, and then the rainy season usually starts by Halloween at the end of the month! · The last week of October is the last time we mow lawns weekly. (Occasionally, the first week in November). Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time to end this weekly chore. · October is the first month we have a higher probability of transplanting from moist, soft soil into a wet, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon. · If you want more bulbs in your yard to have blooms in March, April, or May, now is the time to make a trip to your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and get them planted. October/November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much bloom from them until next fall! · The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! · The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over our yards. Remember to keep the leaves off the lawn/grass areas. Instead, rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves may cause permanent damage if left on your lawns! (Only one day can sometimes leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. · This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter. · Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring. Pro tips: · Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer. · Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. · Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great to have over the winter for birds or human snacking. · Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees. · Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to prepare them for cracking and eating. · Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads. · Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter. Once a month, over the winter, water them lightly to keep them alive. Do NOT let them freeze! · Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put in moist, sandy soil and cover with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temps. Give them some light from a window; if they are at room temperature, they will root faster. · Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases. · Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children. · Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage. · Consider beginning the process of manipulating light to begin forcing your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors. · Trap moles. Avoid baits and poisons; they harm the food chain as other animals eat the Moles and become poisoned themselves. Here is a local option that many have found to be helpful. It is a percussive method that seems to work: https://www.molecat.com/
By Dale Hickey 25 Sep, 2023
As the breeze of September began to sweep through, my partner and I found ourselves soaking up the sun on the wonderful shores of O’ahu for my 50 th birthday. Every traveler has their "thing" – that one activity they must indulge in, wherever they are. For me? It's the allure of botanical gardens. Despite it being my first visit to O’ahu, a little birdie (well, more like a Google search) whispered about the enchanting Koko Crater Botanical Garden. The prospect was too tempting to resist.
By Serenity Coulombe 31 Aug, 2023
Deep in the woods of Washington, in a small cabin without electricity, a small group of Winterbloom employees hatched a plan in March of 2022. Away from cell service and the hustle and bustle of life, we could dive into the Big Question: “How do we continue the jobs that we love when our boss wants to retire and none of us want to buy the company from him on our own?” We sat in this little cabin with pens, highlighters, a giant sticky notepad, personality tests, and a toy tiger to signify who shared thoughts while the rest of us listened. Miraculously, a new mission statement was created, and two pathways were laid out to do more digging, research, and planning. Option 1: Investigate turning Winterbloom into a cooperative entity. Option 2: Transfer ownership to just a few of us to continue operating as a corporation/LLC. Regular meetings were set, commitments were made through hugs and handshakes, and our journey began.
By Phil Thornburg 17 Aug, 2023
September and October are my two favorite months of each year. These two months tend to remain on the dry side with sunny skies yet have cooler weather than either July or August. September is also Summer’s last month, and I think it is the best month of Summer. Take a moment as you walk, jog, or drive to enjoy the slow change of the seasons. The rainy season will be with us soon, usually by the end of October. The transition here in Western Oregon from Summer into Fall is so different than the transition between Spring into Summer. Spring’s entrance is often a furious fight between the chilly, wet days of Winter and the warmer, sunnier days of summer. That competition often includes storms, frosts, winds, sudden heat, etc. Fall’s entrance, on the other hand, comes upon us with a slow, cooling, gentle slide into the rainy season and then on into the even cooler rains of Winter. September Gardening Tasks: Slack off on watering in the beds, but check to see and water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens your plants off for Winter. Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up! September/October are the best months to plant new or renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you. Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip. That way, the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in. You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials that have finished blooming and have turned brown; this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives. September through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant. The peak month for planting and transplanting is November. Pick and store winter squash when it is ready, usually in late September. Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes. Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi, and more. September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a unique Fall/Winter mix for November). Now is an excellent time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined. This fall, prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees. Read this blog post for a more detailed look at what makes good composting. Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods. If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot, and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods. If the nights get too cool outside, bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them. Keep them out, though, through October. Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn: Generally, the best time for overseeding (filling in bare spots) or grass seeding is September/October/November or March/April/ May. Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a stiff rake. Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds straw bales have! Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Give it lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few on cloudy days. Wait about two weeks to see what happens. You are doing well if tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing. If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass. Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the Winter. In the summer, put it in the refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents; they love the stuff!) Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home with a lawn.
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