Lawn: The Elephant in the Room

Rebekah Cammack and Dale Hickey • June 10, 2022

One of the questions most frequently asked of me when I meet with people is, “how can I get rid of my lawn?” There are many reasons people may want to ditch their lawn. There’s growing interest in our society over conserving water and putting in plants that create a good environment for beneficial insects and birds. Some people dread the spring when they must re-establish a relationship with their lawnmower. Others are ready to wave the white flag of surrender and give up on the patchy, over shaded lawn that they’ve been coaxing for years.  


Whatever the reason, it is always good to look at your options.


The first thing I ask is how people want to use the space. Do you still need an area to kick a ball around or let a dog run free? Do you want a space full of plants and shrubs? Would you like more space for entertaining?  


The second question is about site conditions. Is it shady? Full sun? Does it stay wet, or is it dry? Will you be irrigating or choosing drought-adapted plants? If you are going low to no water, you may still want a temporary watering solution for the first year.

Grass Adjacent Solutions:

Eco lawn: 



Eco Lawns may be a consideration if you still have kiddos or pets that need some lawn space. Eco Lawns are generally started with seed mixes. Several local companies sell great mixes. Look for mixtures with dwarf perennial ryegrass, hard fescues, yarrow and clover. After establishment, you can let the grass go dormant in the summer months and still have a green space. These mixes still look best with a couple of mows a year and some water, but they take less maintenance than a conventional lawn. One thing to consider is that many of the mixes contain clover, English daisies and yarrow, which makes a bee haven. If getting stung is a concern, or you have small children running around in bare feet, consider a mix without those.

Artificial Turf:



There are a lot of considerations around artificial turf. While it is not my personal preference, I do admit that in some circumstances it is the best solution. Artificial turf has a high upfront cost, installation cost of a fake lawn can run you almost as much as a patio (if implemented correctly), you will have to invest some big bucks into saving on water and maintenance down the road. Speaking of maintenance, while you don’t have to mow it, artificial turf still takes some upkeep. If you have tree debris the surface will need to be cleaned off, and it looks best if raked occasionally.


Heat is another thing to think about, as artificial turf absorbs a lot of it. If you have a small, south-facing yard, it will not feel good to be out on that turf during the height of summer. Another factor to consider is what happens to all that material when it reaches the end of its life. Often, due to the nature of the materials it’s made from, it will go to a landfill.


The benefits are that you can put it where grass won’t grow, it makes a great play surface for kids, it usually lasts a long time, it’s green all year round and, much like laminate flooring, it’s come a long way aesthetically in the last ten years. 

Ground covers:



Many people I meet with think of ground cover as the solution to all their problems because they think of it as being equal to lawn. I hate to burst your fantasy of a tough, drought-tolerant, low maintenance plant that will create a rich carpet in your yard: this doesn’t really exist. At least, it doesn’t come into existence easily. Unless you are vigilant the first few years a ground cover is becoming established, weeds will decide that your ground cover is the perfect place to hide and spread and grow through, which ends in you either ripping the whole thing out or painstakingly hand pulling weeds from your ground cover. If you’re willing to put in the time and effort for some ground cover, good options might be creeping thyme, Corsican mint, Sedum Angelina, Ajuga reptans, Heather, Creeping raspberry, etc. 

Wildflower Meadow:



Creating a wildflower meadow is a great way to support local, beneficial insects. Our insect populations are declining; the more we can do to bring flowering annuals and perennials, the better. Consider using clumping grasses in your meadow and leaving the spent flowers through the winter and into spring to form seeds for birds. Many of our native insects will use the stems to winter over. Every grain the birds don't eat will ensure you will have more flowers the following year. Late spring cleanup isn't so bad either. You can cut the stems of spent plants and leave them as mulch.


There are some great seed mixes from
Northwest Meadowscapes. I like to buy seeds of individual species and group them when I sow, which gives more of an impact. One thing to keep in mind is this tends to lend a wilder look to the yard, so consider whether this fits into the aesthetic of your home and your personal preferences, and potentially your HOA’s preferences. 

Ornamental Grasses:



If you like the negative space and flow of lawn, consider ornamental grasses or grass-like plants. These often come in a clumping habit that won’t spread like lawn, and many varieties are drought tolerant once established and only need to be cut down once a year. 

Outside the Lawn Solutions:

Shrub and Perennial Plantings:



You could have a front yard composed of all shrubs and perennials with no lawn. This is where you might want to consult with a Winterbloom designer to come up with a good planting plan that creates natural looking sweeps of plants that hold interest all year round. And maybe you need a playful path running through it all, but we can get to that in the next point. The maintenance level of this option would vary depending on the plants that were put in, and it is important to remember if one doesn’t mow, one weeds. And it is especially important to stay on top of the weeds the first couple of years while the plants are growing in and becoming established,  and to dedicate yourself to putting down a nice layer of bark mulch every two to three years. 

Hardscape:



Much like artificial turf, this option has a higher upfront cost but potential for a lot of reward. You could make an informal crushed gravel patio or bring in some pavers or stamped concrete. This could be a welcoming courtyard near the front door, a hidden coffee drinking nook, an area for entertaining, the place to roast marshmallows around a fire bowl with the grandkids or a serene hideaway with a glass of wine. When implemented in conjunction with a thoughtful planting plan that softens the hard edges, more hardscapes can be a welcome addition. 

Dry Garden:



You could consider a dry or rock garden. A dry garden uses well suited plants adapted to our dry summers, so after they've established they should need very little to no additional water. Gravel mulch is often used but is not necessary. You could use Thyme, Yuccas, Arctostaphylos and bunching grasses. There are a lot of plants that can be used to create a lovely, low input garden. Add some boulders and a seating area for more accents and features.

Dry Creek Bed:



A dry creek bed probably will not take up your entire yard, but it can take up a substantial amount of real estate. This uses rocks and gravel to create an interesting feature running through your yard. This option is particularly useful if you have drainage issues in your yard that also need to be addressed, and a French drain and dry well can be hidden within the bed. My advice is to hire someone who is good at rock work; a dry creek bed is a bit like dying your hair, you want it to look natural and like it’s always been there, and it can easily cross the line into looking fake. 

I hope if you are thinking of getting rid of lawn this will help inform and inspire you. Remember, many of these solutions can even be mixed and matched and used together. Keep in mind as well that sometimes it is better to start small and take out just a portion of your lawn to begin. If you are looking at a big transformation, feel free to give us a call or send us an email and we would be happy to meet with you and help envision what your yard could look like without/with less lawn.

By Dale Hickey October 6, 2025
On Saturday, September 27th, we held our fall plant sale at Thornhurst Garden—and what a day it was! The garden itself provided the perfect backdrop, with the changing leaves and late blooms showing off the season’s beauty. It was such a joy to see so many friendly faces—neighbors, friends, and new visitors alike—coming together to share their love of plants. Events like these remind us how much community is at the heart of gardening. The sale helped us find new homes for much of our overstock, and many folks walked away with treasures for their own gardens. Moist fall soil means these plants will settle in happily, making this truly the best season to get them in the ground. We also held a raffle, and we’re excited to announce that Sarah Reid was our winner! Congratulations, Sarah! Thank you to everyone who came out to support us, explore the gardens, and bring home plants. We’re already looking forward to the next time we can gather and celebrate together. (Here’s a look at some of the wonderful people who joined us that day!)
By Dale Hickey October 6, 2025
October might just be the best month of the year. Leaves turn gold and crimson, the first steady rains return to refresh thirsty plants, and the garden hums with renewed activity—birds darting through the branches and insects busy among the late blooms and fallen leaves. Soon, the season’s magic spills beyond the garden as little goblins and witches knock on our doors, candy bags in hand. For gardeners, fall is more than just a feast for the senses. Cooler days and moist soil create the perfect conditions for transplanting trees, shrubs, and perennials—plants settle in more easily now than in the heat of summer. (Unless we're talking Agaves, transplant those after the Spring rains) The softened ground also makes digging and dividing far less of a chore. Even challenging tasks like ivy removal become easier when the soil gives way beneath the roots. Autumn truly is a season of opportunity: a time to plant, to tidy (or not!), and to prepare the garden for the year ahead while savoring every bit of its fleeting beauty. The last week of October, but sometimes the first week in November, is the last time that we mow weekly. Be watching your lawn so that you can decide the best time for yourself. Occasionally, we will have a warm Winter, and a touch-up may be needed. Eco-lawns- Depending on the seed mix, you can leave these as is, allowing them to form more of a meadow look. This can help create more habitat for wildlife and insects. October is the first month when we have a higher probability of transplanting from moist, soft soil into a damp, soft new hole. All plants of course prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and the (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time typically extends from the rainy season until approximately the middle of March. Now is the best time to plant in Western Oregon! If you want Spring blooms, make a trip now to your local nursery and purchase Spring bulbs to plant in the ground! October/November are the traditional months for planting Spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs now, such as Saffron Crocuses and Colchicums. The rain will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so getting slug bait out in your beds now will hopefully thwart off a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The Fall leaves will start to drop all over your yard. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will damage your lawn if left on, sometimes only in a day or two, but they can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. Lots of insects use this leaf litter as their habitat. This is a great way to invite more birds and wildlife into your garden as they forage through the leaves! I love watching them! This month, place mulch around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frost or freezes. Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them 2” thick over any bare areas in your beds for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help choke out weed seeds from sprouting. If you are seriously into gardening, here are some more tips. Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer Pick any green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest Sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great for birds and human snacking. Sow native hardy annuals- you can sow these on any bare soil, or you can use gravel mulch and direct sow on that! Some great hardy annuals are California poppy (Eschscholzia californica), Red Maids (Calandrinia ciliata), Farewell-to-spring (Clarkia amoena) Gilia capitata, to name a few. Feel free to reach out to us if you have any questions about hardy annuals! A hardy annual is an annual plant you can sow in the Fall, and it will germinate, survive the Winter Months, and grow enough roots to sustain itself. Most of our natives will not require additional water the following year, and if they are happy, they will seed around and come up where they are thriving.
September 3, 2025
We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00! Bring your friends! Please RSVP for the event at the link below: https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact
By Dale Hickey September 3, 2025
Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year.  Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
A close-up of small white and yellow flowers with a bee pollinating one.
By Phil Thornburg and Dale Hickey May 6, 2025
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
A group of people sit in a room with presents, talking.
By Dale Hickey December 18, 2024
A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from  Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative  As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us.  On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party: