Lawn: The Elephant in the Room

Rebekah Cammack and Dale Hickey • June 10, 2022

One of the questions most frequently asked of me when I meet with people is, “how can I get rid of my lawn?” There are many reasons people may want to ditch their lawn. There’s growing interest in our society over conserving water and putting in plants that create a good environment for beneficial insects and birds. Some people dread the spring when they must re-establish a relationship with their lawnmower. Others are ready to wave the white flag of surrender and give up on the patchy, over shaded lawn that they’ve been coaxing for years.  


Whatever the reason, it is always good to look at your options.


The first thing I ask is how people want to use the space. Do you still need an area to kick a ball around or let a dog run free? Do you want a space full of plants and shrubs? Would you like more space for entertaining?  


The second question is about site conditions. Is it shady? Full sun? Does it stay wet, or is it dry? Will you be irrigating or choosing drought-adapted plants? If you are going low to no water, you may still want a temporary watering solution for the first year.

Grass Adjacent Solutions:

Eco lawn: 



Eco Lawns may be a consideration if you still have kiddos or pets that need some lawn space. Eco Lawns are generally started with seed mixes. Several local companies sell great mixes. Look for mixtures with dwarf perennial ryegrass, hard fescues, yarrow and clover. After establishment, you can let the grass go dormant in the summer months and still have a green space. These mixes still look best with a couple of mows a year and some water, but they take less maintenance than a conventional lawn. One thing to consider is that many of the mixes contain clover, English daisies and yarrow, which makes a bee haven. If getting stung is a concern, or you have small children running around in bare feet, consider a mix without those.

Lush green ground cover with white flowers along a sidewalk, next to a landscaped area with a wooden fence in the background.
Lush green lawn dotted with small white flowers, in a wooded setting with a tree in the background.
Grassy backyard with a wooden fence, raised garden beds, and a black pole with a concrete base. Sunny day.

Artificial Turf:



There are a lot of considerations around artificial turf. While it is not my personal preference, I do admit that in some circumstances it is the best solution. Artificial turf has a high upfront cost, installation cost of a fake lawn can run you almost as much as a patio (if implemented correctly), you will have to invest some big bucks into saving on water and maintenance down the road. Speaking of maintenance, while you don’t have to mow it, artificial turf still takes some upkeep. If you have tree debris the surface will need to be cleaned off, and it looks best if raked occasionally.


Heat is another thing to think about, as artificial turf absorbs a lot of it. If you have a small, south-facing yard, it will not feel good to be out on that turf during the height of summer. Another factor to consider is what happens to all that material when it reaches the end of its life. Often, due to the nature of the materials it’s made from, it will go to a landfill.


The benefits are that you can put it where grass won’t grow, it makes a great play surface for kids, it usually lasts a long time, it’s green all year round and, much like laminate flooring, it’s come a long way aesthetically in the last ten years. 

Hand holding a piece of artificial turf, showing green blades and a black rubber backing.
Green artificial lawn surrounded by flowering plants and bushes. A house is in the background.
A golden retriever dog rests on a green artificial grass rug on a wooden deck.

Ground covers:



Many people I meet with think of ground cover as the solution to all their problems because they think of it as being equal to lawn. I hate to burst your fantasy of a tough, drought-tolerant, low maintenance plant that will create a rich carpet in your yard: this doesn’t really exist. At least, it doesn’t come into existence easily. Unless you are vigilant the first few years a ground cover is becoming established, weeds will decide that your ground cover is the perfect place to hide and spread and grow through, which ends in you either ripping the whole thing out or painstakingly hand pulling weeds from your ground cover. If you’re willing to put in the time and effort for some ground cover, good options might be creeping thyme, Corsican mint, Sedum Angelina, Ajuga reptans, Heather, Creeping raspberry, etc. 

A stone path winds through lush green ground cover in a garden.
Purple and green ground cover plants with rock edging and tall green grass in a garden setting.
A large, textured gray rock surrounded by bright yellow-green ground cover plants in a garden setting.
A golf course view with purple heather.

Wildflower Meadow:



Creating a wildflower meadow is a great way to support local, beneficial insects. Our insect populations are declining; the more we can do to bring flowering annuals and perennials, the better. Consider using clumping grasses in your meadow and leaving the spent flowers through the winter and into spring to form seeds for birds. Many of our native insects will use the stems to winter over. Every grain the birds don't eat will ensure you will have more flowers the following year. Late spring cleanup isn't so bad either. You can cut the stems of spent plants and leave them as mulch.


There are some great seed mixes from Northwest Meadowscapes. I like to buy seeds of individual species and group them when I sow, which gives more of an impact. One thing to keep in mind is this tends to lend a wilder look to the yard, so consider whether this fits into the aesthetic of your home and your personal preferences, and potentially your HOA’s preferences. 

Field of orange wildflowers surrounded by tall grass and various green plants and trees.
Two-story blue house with solar panels in a field of wildflowers and tall grass.
A winding stone path meanders through a sunlit, overgrown garden.

Ornamental Grasses:



If you like the negative space and flow of lawn, consider ornamental grasses or grass-like plants. These often come in a clumping habit that won’t spread like lawn, and many varieties are drought tolerant once established and only need to be cut down once a year. 

Rows of ornamental grass with feathery seed heads in a manicured garden bed, surrounded by a low, grayish ground cover.
A bed of variegated Mondo grass with green and white blades, mulched with dark wood chips, in a garden setting.
Grassy landscape with tall, green grasses and blue-green ornamental grasses in the foreground, with trees in the background.
Tall ornamental grass with tan seed heads and green blades growing in a landscaped bed with brown mulch, next to a sidewalk.

Outside the Lawn Solutions:

Shrub and Perennial Plantings:



You could have a front yard composed of all shrubs and perennials with no lawn. This is where you might want to consult with a Winterbloom designer to come up with a good planting plan that creates natural looking sweeps of plants that hold interest all year round. And maybe you need a playful path running through it all, but we can get to that in the next point. The maintenance level of this option would vary depending on the plants that were put in, and it is important to remember if one doesn’t mow, one weeds. And it is especially important to stay on top of the weeds the first couple of years while the plants are growing in and becoming established,  and to dedicate yourself to putting down a nice layer of bark mulch every two to three years. 

A cozy, two-story house with a brown door and cobblestone path. Lush greenery surrounds the entrance.
A dark blue house with a colorful garden in front. Yellow, red, and green plants line the walkway.
Stone pathway leads to a home entrance, bordered by lush green plants and a gravel bed. The scene is bathed in sunlight.

Hardscape:



Much like artificial turf, this option has a higher upfront cost but potential for a lot of reward. You could make an informal crushed gravel patio or bring in some pavers or stamped concrete. This could be a welcoming courtyard near the front door, a hidden coffee drinking nook, an area for entertaining, the place to roast marshmallows around a fire bowl with the grandkids or a serene hideaway with a glass of wine. When implemented in conjunction with a thoughtful planting plan that softens the hard edges, more hardscapes can be a welcome addition. 

Stone pathway through a lush, colorful garden with a garage and small building. Lanterns flank the path.
Charming cottage with green shutters.
L-shaped outdoor sectional sofa with colorful pillows on a brick patio surrounded by greenery.

Dry Garden:



You could consider a dry or rock garden. A dry garden uses well suited plants adapted to our dry summers, so after they've established they should need very little to no additional water. Gravel mulch is often used but is not necessary. You could use Thyme, Yuccas, Arctostaphylos and bunching grasses. There are a lot of plants that can be used to create a lovely, low input garden. Add some boulders and a seating area for more accents and features.

A colorful garden with a pathway, various plants, and a hedge in the background.
A garden with a winding path, featuring various shrubs, grasses, and large rocks, bathed in sunlight.
A vibrant garden bed features various green and purple flowering plants.

Dry Creek Bed:



A dry creek bed probably will not take up your entire yard, but it can take up a substantial amount of real estate. This uses rocks and gravel to create an interesting feature running through your yard. This option is particularly useful if you have drainage issues in your yard that also need to be addressed, and a French drain and dry well can be hidden within the bed. My advice is to hire someone who is good at rock work; a dry creek bed is a bit like dying your hair, you want it to look natural and like it’s always been there, and it can easily cross the line into looking fake. 

A landscaped garden with a dry riverbed of rocks and pebbles, surrounded by mulch, greenery, and large stones.
A rock garden with various sized rocks and small plants borders a concrete driveway.
A rock garden with a small tree, boulders, and a decorative leaf-shaped stone near a concrete path and wooden stairs.

I hope if you are thinking of getting rid of lawn this will help inform and inspire you. Remember, many of these solutions can even be mixed and matched and used together. Keep in mind as well that sometimes it is better to start small and take out just a portion of your lawn to begin. If you are looking at a big transformation, feel free to give us a call or send us an email and we would be happy to meet with you and help envision what your yard could look like without/with less lawn.

Plant Sale and Raffle Saturday September 27th 9-11 am

September 3, 2025
We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00! Bring your friends! Please RSVP for the event at the link below: https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact

September Tips and Tricks

By Dale Hickey • September 3, 2025
Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year.  Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
A close-up of small white and yellow flowers with a bee pollinating one.

May Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg and Dale Hickey • May 6, 2025
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
A group of people sit in a room with presents, talking.

Thank You, and Happy Holidays!

By Dale Hickey • December 18, 2024
A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from  Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative  As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us.  On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party:
Pale pink fuchsia flowers hanging over a garden path. The scene is blurred, with a wooden gate in the background.

October Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg • October 8, 2024
October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. Autumn has arrived, and with it, all the things we love—cooler days, vibrant fall colors, and a fresh start for your garden. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month, and then by Halloween, the rainy season has begun! The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the chore. October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon. If you want more bulbs in your garden to bloom in March, April, or May, visit your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and plant them. October and November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall! The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your garden. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! (Sometimes, only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. This month, mulch should be placed around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter.  Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring. Late October is a great time to broadcast Native hardy annual seeds. If you can get them going now, most species will sail through the summer months with no water needs. Pro tips: Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer. Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great birds to set out over the winter for birds or human snacking. Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping them all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees. Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating. Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads. Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter, and watering them lightly once a month over the winter to keep them alive. Do not let them freeze! Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put them in moist, sandy soil and cover them with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temperatures. Give them some light from a window, and if they are at room temperature, they will root faster. Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases. Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children. Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage. Consider manipulating light now to force your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Pink begonia flowers with yellow centers hang from green stems and leaves.

September Tips and Tricks

By Phil Thornburg and Dale Hickey • September 11, 2024
Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024 September and October are my two favorite months of the year. The weather is beginning to cool down, but we still have some beautiful sunny days. Halloween is just around the corner and I have an abundance of bird activity in the garden still. Mornings are noticeably chilly, and it feels nice to add an extra layer to stay warm. The transition to Fall is my favorite! September Gardening Tasks: Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter. Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up! September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you. Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in. You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives. September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant . The peak month for planting and transplanting is November. Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September. Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes. Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more. September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November). Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined. Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall. Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods. If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods. Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October. Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May. Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake. Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have! Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days. Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well. If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass. Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!) Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.