Osmanthus, Tea and Me…the journey that led to the beautiful evergreens with heavenly fragrance
Phil Thornburg • March 4, 2013
Carissa — the Childhood Shrub that Began My Journey
As a child, I loved to roam the rolling, green hills of Burundi, Africa. I generally escaped the dormitory on Sunday afternoons with the rest of the older kids under the supervision of a cane wielding, sturdy 65 year old hiker that we all lovingly called “Aunt Esther.” One of my favorite things to do was attempt to categorize and identify the plants that we saw. Of course I had no background in taxonomy or botany. I could quickly tell, though, which ones were annuals, herbs, perennials, shrub or trees; were more or less attractive, fragrant, or not, and so on and so on. Aunt Esther was an accomplished gardener, though she was not formally schooled in this vast realm.
African Holly
One of the plants that attracted me was what she called African Holly. It had lustrous green, elliptical, partly shiny leaves with tiny thorns. It was evergreen even in our driest of dry seasons. I discovered in my exploring that it particularly liked to grow near termite mounds. I was aware of this because we often caught the flying form of the termites at the beginning of the rainy season and popped them into tin cans. We then took them to the dorm, fried them up in butter and ate them as snacks. They were my childhood version of popcorn!
Another attribute of the African Holly was that it had white blooms in December while it also decorated itself with the previous year’s fruit. The berries were a beautiful red color and the flowers were very sweetly scented, reminiscent of Jasmine. We used it seasonally for decoration at home and in the dormitory during Christmas, in place of English Holly. (Although, at that time I was not familiar with English Holly so assumed that it looked like
African Holly).
African Holly).
Being the curious and compulsive child that I was, (I think that I had a touch of ADHD as well), I asked any adult close to me, its botanical name. Of course the slightly annoyed grown up response was, “I don’t know” or “African Holly”!
When I came to the United States at 17, this question was still on my mind. One day while haunting a nursery (which I did as often as I could to feed my spirit), I found what was called Natal Plum. I knew right then that I was close. The flower, the fruit and the leaves were almost identical to what I saw as a child, but larger in every way. At that time nurseries did not have the educational bent that they do now. No one at the nursery had the slightest idea about its botanical name, nor did they have any books about it. They acted irritated that I wanted to know. I continued to hunt and eventually found its taxonomical name in the library at Oregon State University (OSU)
in 1972. It was Carissa macrocarpa, a blooming evergreen which, unfortunately, is not hardy in Oregon. But I knew then that the shrub from my childhood was a Carissa, although I didn’t know its species. Someday I will find out!!!
Southern Holly
The years went on; I was married and we moved to Gainesville, Florida where I pursued a Master’s degree at the University of Florida. We loved to adventure on Sunday afternoons with another couple.
One day at their recommendation, we visited Marjorie Kinnan Rawling’s (author of the Yearling) birth place in Cross Creek. What a wonderful relief from the strip mall, alligator farm, madness that is much of modern Florida! We discovered a historical, preserved farm on about 50 acres of land with semi tended orange groves and lakes. There were few modern amenities. All of the trees and shrubs were the original plants or were replacements. It was a one story, warm, southern, soft and gracious white house with wooden screen-doors and a screened-in porch for cooling air currents. It was reminiscent of my childhood residences. In the yard there was a picnic table with a flagstone spot to set your a portable BBQ. (We fixed our own southern BBQ chicken, right there, on charcoal briquettes).
On either side of the front door stoop were two flanking, broadleaf evergreen shrubs. The tiny yellowish orange flowers, sprinkled inside the bush, were intensely fragrant with an intoxicating scent of apricot and jasmine. Its fragrance and tidy, nice, evergreen habit reminded me of the Carissa of my childhood! I asked the museum curator inside what they were. She said that it was an old fashioned plant that all old southern homes had. She called it Southern Holly (!) or said that sometimes it was called Sweet Olive. I decided then and there that I would find its botanical name.
It took me about three years to sleuth it out, and by then I was living back in Oregon, again searching the OSU library. Osmanthus fragrans aurantiacus was its name. I read that it was from China and that the flowers were used to scent tea. There was even a region of China that was famous for raising varieties of Osmanthus fragrans strictly for the flowers. I decided that I had to find this plant in Oregon and attempt to grow it here. I hoped that it would be hardy. But of course no one that I knew had heard of it in 1979 in Oregon, so I waited.
In 1981 I took my young family with our one year old daughter Samara to Houston, Texas to visit my parents. My father was one of the paid pastors at the Friendsview, Texas, Friend’s Church. While there, I badgered my parents into visiting several nurseries to find this Southern Holly or Sweet Olive.
I finally located Osmanthus fragrans in a Texas nursery and bought two, one for my parents and one to take back to Oregon. I removed it from the pot, wrapped it in a plastic bag and it flew with me in my carry-on bag. It was blooming and had the same heavenly fragrance. I immediately planted it in what I thought was an appropriate spot at our Lake Grove garden in Lake Oswego.
It thrived but never bloomed again. That was discouraging. One winter in the mid 80’s we had a very cold and windy period. It got down to about 9 degrees Fahrenheit and froze pipes all over town. The foliage died to the ground and I assumed that it was dead. I was terribly disappointed. The Osmanthus fragrans that I had hoped would be a hardy replacement for Carissa, turned out not to be so.
But I still had hope. I went on a hunt to find out more about this genus. I just knew that there had to be others that would be hardier. To my delight I found more Osmanthus tucked away in Bean’s Trees and Shrubs Hardy to the British Isles. My compulsive nature took over and I knew that I was on to something special.
We look forward to seeing and catching up with so many of you! This is a great time to add new plants to your garden for discount prices as low as $5.00! Bring your friends! Please RSVP for the event at the link below: https://www.winterbloominc.com/contact
Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year. Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us. On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party:
October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. Autumn has arrived, and with it, all the things we love—cooler days, vibrant fall colors, and a fresh start for your garden. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month, and then by Halloween, the rainy season has begun! The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the chore. October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon. If you want more bulbs in your garden to bloom in March, April, or May, visit your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and plant them. October and November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall! The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your garden. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! (Sometimes, only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. This month, mulch should be placed around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter. Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring. Late October is a great time to broadcast Native hardy annual seeds. If you can get them going now, most species will sail through the summer months with no water needs. Pro tips: Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer. Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great birds to set out over the winter for birds or human snacking. Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping them all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees. Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating. Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads. Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter, and watering them lightly once a month over the winter to keep them alive. Do not let them freeze! Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put them in moist, sandy soil and cover them with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temperatures. Give them some light from a window, and if they are at room temperature, they will root faster. Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases. Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children. Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage. Consider manipulating light now to force your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024 September and October are my two favorite months of the year. The weather is beginning to cool down, but we still have some beautiful sunny days. Halloween is just around the corner and I have an abundance of bird activity in the garden still. Mornings are noticeably chilly, and it feels nice to add an extra layer to stay warm. The transition to Fall is my favorite! September Gardening Tasks: Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter. Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up! September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you. Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in. You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives. September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant . The peak month for planting and transplanting is November. Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September. Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes. Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more. September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November). Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined. Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall. Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods. If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods. Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October. Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May. Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake. Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have! Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days. Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well. If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass. Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!) Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.
