Osmanthus—the Legendary Flower of Kweilin: Part Two
Phil Thornburg • May 29, 2013
As the new owner of a landscape design and installation company in 1983, I found that many times I needed an evergreen that was not a Rhododendron, Ligustrum, Photinia or one of the Prunus. I wanted a genus that was tough, did not get diseases, came in various sizes and did not mind full sun or even drought occasionally. I wanted something that had fragrant flowers but was not messy and did not grow so fast that it overpowered clients’ or my ability to manage.
One day, I was asked to check out the plants in a back yard of an old home in the northwest area of Portland. The client wanted a landscape makeover but first wanted to know which plants to keep. All of the plants in the garden were a minimum of 25 years old and were either enormous or hacked badly. After walking around the many Yews, chopped Junipers and Rhodies, I came upon three similar plants that I had not seen before. They were lightly trimmed, about four feet in height and breadth, and had trunks of about 3-inch diameter. They were covered with buds and were just beginning to bloom. Their leaves were small, about 1 inch long and ½ inch wide, lightly toothed and evergreen. The little white trumpet flowers had a light powdery sweet fragrance during late March. I asked the clients if they were familiar with the plant. They said “no” but that it was the only plant which they really enjoyed in their garden and they wanted to keep it.
I took a leaf in to several nurseries and no one knew what it was. I looked in my books and happened to revisit the genus Osmanthus. The leaf and flower looked like the picture of Osmanthus delavayii. I was excited. Here was the fragrance I wanted in an evergreen and was not huge, even after 25 years. It was a manageable size with only light trimming. When I returned a week later the plant was in full white bloom, very fragrant and beautiful.
Next, I came across Osmanthus x burkwoodii. This is a cross of Osmanthus delavayii and Osmanthus decorus. It fit perfectly in my scheme of things as this plant is great for a smaller hedge. I have found that it can be easily maintained at about 5 to 6 feet with once-a-year trimming. In spring, it has about the same powder sweet scent as delavayii. Its leaves are bigger, about 2 inches long and about 1 inch wide and not toothed.
Osmanthus heterophyllus and its varieties came next. This tough evergreen’s fragrance attracted my attention one October in Lake Oswego while I was weeding at a house near the lake. I thought that it was a strange Holly but quickly found that, no, here again was an Osmanthus to add to my collection! Its leaves were opposite like the other Osmanthus plants and not like a Holly’s. It is a tough evergreen and its fragrance is a bit like honey and jasmine.
There are several varieties of O. heterophyllus, but ‘Goshiki’ has become my favorite. It is slow growing and the foliage develops amazing color combinations of medium green and yellow splotches with pink streaks. It does burn in reflected heat but can take full sun. The term heterophyllus means varying leaves. When it is young the leaves tend to be somewhat toothed like a holly, but as it grows into maturity it develops leaves that are smooth or only occasionally toothed and appears almost to be a different bush.
One of my favorite spots in Seattle is the University of Washington Arboretum. I have found many live plants there that I have seen only in books. I decided in the 80s that I would locate every Osmanthus in the park to see if there were other species that were special. I did come across O. decorus, O. americanus, O. armatus, O. burkwoodii, O. fragrans, O. Yunnanensis, and O. fortunei. (O. suavis or O. serrulatis were listed as in the arboretum, but I could not find them.)
Since then, I have purchased and grown all of the above species except the two that I could not find in the Arboretum. (Osmanthus can quickly be differentiated from Ilex by their opposite leaves. Ilex leaves are never opposite.) Here are a few of the species I have enjoyed:
O. decorus is a neat mounding evergreen with little white mildly fragrant spring blooms. It is tough and drought tolerant even in dense shade. Its leaves are about three inches long and about one to one and a half inches wide. They are not toothed at all. If I could find a good source I would use it much more often.
O. Yunnanensis looks sort of like a much larger O. decorus. It has the largest leaves of any that I have seen and is not toothed like armatus or heterophyllus. It has olive green leaves and blooms profusely and fragrantly in spring. So far, it is the Osmanthus that I think is the best small evergreen patio tree or specimen. It looks a bit like a Michelia or Parakmeria. I would use it on our designs also if I could find it anywhere but Woodlander’s Nursery in Aiken, Georgia.
O. x fortunei is a cross between O. heterophyllus and O. fragrans. I have found this to be the most satisfying Osmanthus for taller hedging in our climate. It is a tough evergreen, completely drought tolerant, hardy in shade or sun and has the most amazing fragrance on a warm autumn day. It is the fastest growing of them all but can be easily contained to 8 feet. Its fragrance to me is a mix of the jasmine and honey of heterophyllus and the jasmine and apricot mix of O. fragrans. O. x fortunei comes in two varieties that I have found:
‘San Jose’ which is a little more narrow growing and lighter green, and Natchez which is darker green and wider. They can be found at Woodlander’s, Gossler’s (Springfield, Oregon), Greer’s (Eugene, Oregon) and Heronswood (Seattle Area).
O. fragrans was the species for which I most wanted to find a hardy variety and dependable bloomer for our climate. Many varieties of O. fragrans are grown commercially in China. One of their favorite varieties, also quite common in San Francisco, is called O.f. aurantiacus. It is known in New Orleans as “Orange Tea Olive.” Its blooms are a rusty orange and very fragrant. I have had trouble with hardiness in this variety and it has never bloomed for me, but I haven’t given up on it.
Sean Hogan of Cistus Nursery here in the Portland area recently told me of some O. fragrans varieties new on the market. I am in the process of trying them out. They are purported to be hardier with an earlier bloom period.
(These Osmanthus varieties can all be found at Nurseries Caroliniana, Inc., www.nurcar.com.)
O. f. ‘Thunbergii’—supposedly longer blooming and yellow flowered.
O. f. ‘Nenjing’s Beauty’—also longer blooming, white flowered.
O. f. ‘Fudingzhu’—purported to be the most fragrant and blooms off and on all year.
My deck is finally built and I am currently pondering the exact locations where I can plant these three varieties of O. fragrans, so that their fragrance will waft up onto the deck. Naturally, I want to appreciate their beauty also. One day I plan to make the perfect cup of Osmanthus tea and I won’t have to live in Kweilin or New Orleans to do it, I will just sit back on my deck and sip.
The Chinese are very fond of Osmanthus fragrans flowers in tea and as a perfume; hence the English Southern name of the plant, “Tea Olive.” The center for the culture of O. fragrans in China is Kweilin on the Likiang River. The name of the city means, “Forest of Sweet Osmanthus”.
—Phil Thornburg
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Garden Tips and Tricks for September September and October are my favorite months of the year. The air cools, the light shifts, and the season takes on that autumn magic that always makes me think of Halloween. Summer is winding down, but the garden is still alive with tasks that prepare it for the darker months ahead. Unlike spring’s dramatic storms and sudden frosts, fall eases in gently, carrying us toward the rainy season by late October. September Gardening Tasks: Ease off watering – Let plants harden off for winter, but check the soil and water if it’s dry. Keep weeding – Persistence now makes for an easier spring. Renovate or seed lawns – September and October are prime months while the air is cool and the soil is workable. Beware of fallen leaves on newly seeded areas. Slug baiting – Use traps or the beer-in-a-jar trick to keep them in check. Monitor areas and determine your threshold for damage. Slugs are also part of our habitat gardens. Trim back perennials – Clear away browned foliage to tidy beds before winter, or for habitat and sustainable gardening, leave perennials for mulch/habitat and forage for birds and insects. Planting and transplanting – September through March is ideal, with November the peak month. If you haven’t yet, begin planning which hardy annuals to seed in late October-November. Harvest – Gather winter squash, tomatoes, and potatoes while they’re ready. Winter vegetables – Early September is the last chance west of the Cascades for kale, Brussels sprouts, turnips, cabbage, and other winter favorites. Lawn fertilizer – This is the last month for summer fertilizer; switch to a fall/winter mix in November. Rhododendron cuttings – This is a good time to start new plants if desired. Prep compost piles – Stock them with fall leaves and garden trimmings for rich soil next year. Houseplants – Bring them indoors when nights turn too chilly.
May Tips for a Habitat-Friendly Garden Plant annuals (but wait on heat-lovers): May is a good time to plant annuals in containers and beds. Hold off on heat-loving crops like tomatoes and basil until nights are reliably warm and the soil has warmed—planting too early can stress or stunt them. Start mindful watering: If rainfall has been low, begin deep, infrequent watering (about once a week). This encourages strong root systems and conserves water. Avoid overhead watering in the evening to reduce fungal issues. Rethink the lawn: If you maintain a lawn, mow higher to reduce water needs and encourage deeper roots. Consider letting some areas go wild or replacing turf with native groundcovers to increase habitat value. Weed wisely: Focus on removing weeds that are going to seed first. Even five minutes of weeding helps! Leave less aggressive weeds in place if time is short—many provide cover or nectar for insects. Support natural pest control: Promote beneficial insects like ladybugs and lacewings by planting a variety of nectar-rich flowers. For aphids, try a spray of soapy water or simply hose them off. Avoid broad-spectrum pesticides, which harm pollinators and beneficial bugs. Slug and root weevil control: Use methods that target pests without harming other wildlife. Nematodes work well for root weevil larvae. For slugs, try beer traps, copper tape, or manual removal. Diatomaceous earth can be effective but may also harm beneficial insects—use sparingly. Leave the mulch: Let leaf litter and composted mulch remain under shrubs. It feeds the soil, retains moisture, and supports beneficial microbes. Fertilize only if plants show signs of stress, and choose fish emulsion or compost tea when needed. Plant for fall and for pollinators: Now’s a great time to plant perennials like chrysanthemums (for fall color) and native flowering plants that bloom through summer and into fall—providing nectar for pollinators and habitat for insects. Plan your veggie garden: By late May or early June, plant warm-season crops like tomatoes, peppers, cucumbers, squash, beans, pumpkins, and kale. Consider letting a few vegetables bolt (like dill and kale) to attract bees and butterflies. Watch for cabbage pests: Small holes in leaves may be flea beetles or cabbage worms. Use floating row covers, handpick pests, or apply BT sparingly. Companion planting with herbs like dill or nasturtiums can help deter pests naturally. Prune thoughtfully: After spring-blooming plants finish flowering, prune only if necessary. Leaving seed heads can provide food for birds and shelter for overwintering insects. Consider leaving trimmings in beds to decompose, except those trimmings of perennials with seed heads you don't want to spread. Avoid major trimming of trees, many birds are still nesting. Skip spraying trees unless necessary: If tent caterpillars are present and damaging fruit or shade trees, remove egg masses or nests manually. Spraying should be a last resort—consider how many caterpillars you can tolerate as part of a healthy ecosystem.
A Heartfelt Thank You and Holiday Cheers from Winterbloom Landscaping Cooperative As the year winds down, we find ourselves reflecting on the incredible journey we’ve taken together over the past months. Transitioning to a cooperative has been a transformative experience, and it’s one we couldn’t have navigated without the trust and support of our amazing customers. You’ve been with us through the changes—whether you’ve been a client for years or just joined us this season, your belief in our vision has kept us going. Your loyalty has allowed us to reimagine how we work, creating not just beautiful landscapes but a thriving, sustainable community. Thank you for being part of this new chapter with us. On December 7th , we celebrated all that we’ve accomplished together at our annual Winterbloom Holiday Party ! We gathered as a team to share laughs, stories, and some well-earned joy. Phil and Barb even joined us, making the celebration even more special! One of the most meaningful parts of this transition has been seeing the way our team has embraced this new model. Their hard work, creativity, and passion bring life to every project, and we’re so grateful to have such a dedicated and talented group of people by our side. This team isn’t just the heart of Winterbloom—they’re the reason we’ve been able to dream bigger and build something truly unique. Here are a few photos from the party:
October is the transition month, weather-wise, in western Oregon. Autumn has arrived, and with it, all the things we love—cooler days, vibrant fall colors, and a fresh start for your garden. Often, we begin experiencing some serious rains about mid-month, and then by Halloween, the rainy season has begun! The last week of October (but sometimes the first week in November) is the last time that we mow lawns weekly. Watch your lawn so that you can decide the best time to stop the chore. October is the first month we have a higher probability of being able to transplant from moist, soft soil into a moist, soft, new hole. All plants, of course, prefer to be dormant (asleep) when being transplanted. So, the coolness of October and (hopefully) moist soil are perfect for the beginning of the transplanting and planting season. The best planting time usually extends through the rainy season until about the middle of March. From mid-October to mid-March is the best time to plant in western Oregon. If you want more bulbs in your garden to bloom in March, April, or May, visit your local nursery to purchase spring bulbs and plant them. October and November are the traditional months for planting spring bulbs. You can also plant fall bulbs, such as Saffron Crocus and Colchicums. However, do not expect much from them until next fall! The rains will bring out the dormant, sleepy slugs, so setting slug bait out in your beds now will thwart a winter and spring invasion of new baby slugs! The fall leaves will soon begin dropping all over your garden. Remember to keep them off the lawn/grass areas and instead rake or blow them into your beds. The wet leaves will cause damage if left on your lawn! (Sometimes, only one day can leave a scorch mark on your lawn.) However, these leaves can become great free compost/mulch for your planting beds. This month, mulch should be placed around potentially tender plants such as Cannas, Fuchsias, Dahlias, and Calla Lilies. This will insulate them from frosts or freezes this coming winter. Get some bark mulch or chips and spread them two inches thick over any bare areas in your beds to prepare for the rainy season. This will prevent erosion and help to choke out sprouting weed seeds in spring. Late October is a great time to broadcast Native hardy annual seeds. If you can get them going now, most species will sail through the summer months with no water needs. Pro tips: Plant garlic bulbs now for harvesting next summer. Pick your green tomatoes and bring them into the garage to ripen. Harvest sunflower heads and bring them into the garage to dry. These are great birds to set out over the winter for birds or human snacking. Dig and store potatoes. Harvest apples, squash, and pumpkins, keeping them all in a dark, dry, cool place around 40-45 degrees. Harvest filberts and walnuts, placing them on mats where they can dry at about 60 degrees to get them ready for cracking and eating. Harvest the red Saffron pistils from your Saffron crocuses. It would help if you were quick to harvest each day because the rain and slugs will quickly spoil the beautiful red threads. Consider digging up and storing your Pelargoniums, hanging Fuchsias and Begonia bulbs in a cool, dry location in shredded newspapers or shavings for the winter, and watering them lightly once a month over the winter to keep them alive. Do not let them freeze! Consider propagating these plants from stem cuttings: Fuchsias, Chrysanthemums, and Pelargoniums. Put them in moist, sandy soil and cover them with a clear plastic bag–this keeps the moisture in. Also, keep them away from freezing temperatures. Give them some light from a window, and if they are at room temperature, they will root faster. Spray peach, cherry, and prune trees with a simple fruit tree and copper spray to prevent cankers and leaf curl diseases. Store any chemicals and fertilizers out of the moisture and away from children. Clean and prepare your greenhouse for winter storage. Consider manipulating light now to force your Christmas Cactus to bloom around the holidays. This is done indoors.
Garden Tips and Tricks for September 2024 September and October are my two favorite months of the year. The weather is beginning to cool down, but we still have some beautiful sunny days. Halloween is just around the corner and I have an abundance of bird activity in the garden still. Mornings are noticeably chilly, and it feels nice to add an extra layer to stay warm. The transition to Fall is my favorite! September Gardening Tasks: Slack off on watering in the beds, but water if your soil is dry. Less water now hardens plants off for winter. Weed. Yes, keep doing this! Never give up! September/October are the best months to plant new or to renovate old lawns, particularly as the air gets cooler and before it gets completely cloudy and cold. You may want a landscape company to perform this task for you. Bait for slugs. Remember the beer option, and if you do, make sure to bury something like a mason jar in the earth and fill it with beer to 1” below the lip, that way the slugs won’t be able to lean in and get a sip but will instead fall in. You can begin trimming off the tops of those perennials which have finished blooming and have turned brown, this will help to clear up the clutter before Winter arrives. September and on through March are the best months of the year to transplant or plant . The peak month for planting and transplanting is November. Pick and store winter squash when it is ready. This is usually late in September. Keep picking tomatoes and potatoes. Early September is the last month to plant your winter vegetable garden west of the Cascades. Examples are winter hardy kale, Brussels sprouts, different Italian greens, broccoli, raab, turnips, cabbage, kohlrabi and more. September is also the final month for regular summer lawn fertilizer application (use a special Fall/Winter mix for November). Now is a good time to take Rhododendron cuttings to start new ones if you are so inclined. Prepare your compost piles for recycling vegetation from your gardens and deciduous trees this fall. Use a copper spray for peach and cherry trees during dry periods. If you are prone to these diseases, spray for bacterial canker of blueberries, leaf cane spot and juniper twig blight (after pruning away dead and infected twigs) during dry periods. Bring houseplants indoors after cleaning and re-potting them, if nights get too cool. If possible, keep them out through October. Short Blog on How to Over Seed Your Lawn The best time for over seeding (filling in bare spots) or just grass seeding in general is September/October/November or March/April/ May. Scratch/rough up the bare areas in the lawn with a hard rake. Sprinkle some seed over these bare areas with just a little natural fertilizer and lime. Cover it to no more than ¼” deep with grass seed mulch. This looks like straw but does not have the weed seeds like straw bales have! Keep the area moist but NOT soaking wet. Lots of spritzes on hot days and just a few spritzes on cloudy days. Wait about two weeks to see what happens. If tiny green shoots, like green dog hair, begin appearing, you are doing well. If no green appears—or not enough to create happiness—repeat the performance every three weeks until you have grass. Keep the bag of grass seed in a cool place (like a garage) over the winter. In the summer put it in a refrigerator. (Watch out for rodents, they love the stuff!) Remember that overseeding a lawn regularly here and there in damaged areas is just a part of the life of owning a home which has a lawn.
